Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Michael McChesney

Member
  • Content Count

    122
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

About Michael McChesney

  • Title
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I am not a senior citizen, but I am a retired person. A very considerate sanitation driver was kind enough to rear end my car while I was stopped at a red light. My car was totaled and my back was messed up. Surgery didn't fix it so I got to retire on disability. The City of New York spent about 5 years arguing the accident was my fault but eventually settled. So now I just sit at home watching LTT videos. At least I don't have a mortgage.
  2. I joined AARP a few months ago. I am only 53, but I needed a new pair of glasses and the AARP discount was 4 times the annual membership cost. I got their news paper the other day and it included a full page ad for Wow! Computers for seniors, $200 off!!!. I was curious and went to their page. The computer is an all in one with a 22" touch screen. It was easy to find out it was running a linux distro. It was also easy to find out the price was $1,099 (reduced from $1,299). What was hard to find were the specifications. But I found them. Screen 21.5" High Definition Touch
  3. Just for the record, I can now pretty definitively say the detection issue was related to the motherboard. I had originally built the PC using a Gigabyte B450 DS3H WiFi motherboard. I had two of them, one for a PC for myself and the other as a gift for my sister. But one of the boards wouldn't post so I sent in in for service and used the working board for my sister. Rather than wait a month to get the board back, I picked up an Asrock B550M Pro4 board at MicroCenter. The detection issue was with the PC with that board installed. I got the DS3H board back a couple of weeks ago with a no
  4. My first PC was an Everex (ever heard of them?) desktop with a 486 66mhz with a 420 MB HD and 8 GB of ram and running Windows 3.1 purchased in 1995. I upgraded to Windows 95 a few months after getting it. I ended up donating it to the Salvation Army after getting a new PC in or around 1999. I really regret doing that. I think it would be cool to have a 25 year old antique like that. I suppose I could find a similar system on eBay, but my apartment is currently completely cluttered as my family home was sold last week. That meant all those boxes of things I was storing there had to be eit
  5. I looked in to updating my Bios but I've decided against it. While I was in the Bios I tried to adjust the memory speed so I would actually get the 3200 mhz Corsair says the RAM is rated for. But after I did that my screen went blank and even trying 2 different monitors there was no video output. I cleared the CMOS and its working again. But this experience has convinced me to heed the warning about not updating your bios if your system is working well. But thank you very much for your suggestions.
  6. Thanks guys. I unplugged the PC, pulled the CMOS battery, and pressed the power button for 20 Mississippis. It's supposed to be done after 10 seconds but I doubled it just to be sure. then I left it for an hour before I put everything back. I am typing this on that PC so it must have worked. Thank you so much. I think i'll leave the memory speed set to auto. Ultimately this is a HTPC and I doubt I'll be doing much video rendering here. The only reason I adjusted it is because AMD is supposed to benefit from faster RAM and I paid for 3200 mhz and I like to tinker. I was t
  7. I built a HTPC with am Asrock B550m Pro4 motherboard, a Ryzen 5 3400G CPU and 16 GB of CORSAIR - Vengeance LPX (2PK x 8GB) 3.2 GHz DDR4 RAM. I do not have a discrete GPU in the system. I recall from when I built my first system that 3200 memory doesn't run at 3200 unless you go into the bios and set it to that speed. That worked the first time I did it, though that was with an Intel board. But this time after I saved and exited, my screen went blank. I had a TV connected via HDMI, but I tried connecting an Acer monitor via HDMI and an even older Acer monitor via D Sub, but no video signa
  8. Thanks. I'll let you know how that works out. I agree with you about the smart remotes. Remember when you could just enter a channel manually? I have an Asus PC I bought at the same time as this TV and I used to have it connectred to it. But then last year I decided to build a PC and the Asus went into the closet. After I moved and bought a QLED TV for my living room I tried connecting the Asus in my bedroom. I had a few problems with it causing me to have to swap out its SSD. But one issue was that when I first turned it on it would flash on and off. Like 1 second on, 4 seconds off.
  9. I just realized I added to the thread instead of replying to you. But I just posted a longer reply.
  10. I've contacted Samsung many times. Most recently, they said I should unplug the TV and hold the power button on the TV for 10 seconds, then after a few minutes plug it back in. The problem is there are no controls on the TV, only on the remote. I need to contact them for a 6th time I guess. I just want the thing to stop detecting new devices and leave everything as it is. Yesterday, I left it unplugged about 20 minutes and plugged it back in. The last input was HDMI 2 and it started there and when I turned on the PC I saw Asrock splash screen and it booted into Windows. I t
  11. Sorry, I wasn't around and didn't get a chance to check back here yesterday. My TV is the second one in the Samsung.com link. The one on Best Buy's website has 2 legs, while mine has the center stand. This is the link to the TV on Best Buy's website. In actuality it appears I bought the TV in January 2018, not 2017. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-55-class-led-mu7000-series-2160p-smart-4k-uhd-tv-with-hdr/5773701.p?skuId=5773701 I took a vodeo of the detection process but the file ended up too large to email to myself so I took a screen capture. I know there are probably e
  12. The model is UN55MU7000FXZA. I bought it at Best Buy in 2017. When the TV detects a new device, or in this case the same device powered on, the screen goes kind of greyish blue and it says "detecting device." Usually after a successful detection it will say "changing source to PC" and change to the PC input. That input is actually HDMI 2. Sometimes it has some issue and says it could not detect the device and offers to let me manually configure. But when I try to manually configure PC is not a choice. That manual detection only lasts until I turn the PC on again. If there is a way to m
  13. I have preferred to keep a HTPC connected to my TVs since before TVs got "smart.". I've had a 55" MU7000 Samsung TV since 2017 and connected several PCs to it over the last 3 years. My TV would "discover" the PC when it was first connected, but the PC Tile would remain in the home row unless the HDMI cable was disconnected or the PC unplugged from the outlet. I just built a new PC with a 3400G CPU, an Asrock B550M Pro4 motherboard, and an EVGA 500W 80+ PSU. The problem is that whenever I turn off my PC, the next time I turn it on my TV has to "discover" it all over again. This can take se
  14. Speaking of mistakes. On my first PC build, I thought it would be nice if it could play 4K Blurays, so I bought a 4K internal drive. Then I discovered in order to play a 4K disk I would need Cyberlink Power DVD software that cost more than the drive did. Since I am the only one with access to my PC, I wanted it to boot without asking for a password. But the 4K DRM wouldn't allow me to play a 4K movie unless I had a higher level of security enabled. So I decided that occasionally playing a 4K movie was not worth the daily inconvenience. I ended up hardly using it. Fast forward a year and
×