CodeNova

Everybody's life is meaningless, its not just you. Spending your time wisely doesn't give your life meaning, find what makes ya happy and tell your coworker to blow it out his ass.

So here's the story, I broke a bracket on a 'vintage' piece of equipment *face palm* and now I need a replacement. I have the part drawn up in cad, but I'm not sure where to get it fabricated. I need it laser cut out of steel or aluminum, 1mm - 1.20mm thick. I was thinking about using pololu or lasergist, but I've never used any of these services before, so I don't know what to expect. Could anybody recommend a cheap laser cutting service? The bracket is about 71mm x 42mm, so its not very big. I can post the files if anybody wants a look see. Any advice is welcome, looking forward to reply's.

Try this, supports both common anode and common cathode. PS, glad you figured it out. https://github.com/wilmouths/RGBLed

Double check the pitch. Edit: fixed links... https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/assmann-wsw-components/AWP-50-8240-T/HHSC50H-ND/5011317 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3m/3365-50-100/3M157852-5-ND/9478493

- Siberian Slayer - Mr.Freeze - The Iceman

I'm with Derkoli, just buy new speakers. https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280T-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Get a second opinion before ya break out the credit card. My Recommendation

Without a schematic or wiring diagram its really hard to pinpoint the problem. Based on your description it seems like a power issue. Without knowing what Arduino board you have, I can only speculate, but I bet your onboard voltage regulator blew. Those linear voltage regulators are super inefficient, especially when they have to drop a lot of voltage 12->5. That voltage drop is also dissipated as heat, super bad if your not using a heat sink. Also I think those onboard v-regs have a supply limit of 400mA? (don't quote me). So if your powering anything 'from' the Arduino board that exceeds that rating, your gonna have a bad time. Depending on the chip set, the Arduino is really only rated for 5vdc or 3.3vdc, the onboard regulator is rated at 12v, not the chip. So don't connect your Arduino IO to any voltage source greater than that without proper level shifting. You might already know this, but I'm just covering all the bases encase you don't. If it is the regulator, you can do one of three things. 1) Swap out your Arduino board with a new one and see if the problem persists. 2) change out the onboard regulator (it's pain if you don't have the tools) and see if the problem persists. 3) Hook a buck/boost regulator up to the 5v supply pin of the Arduino and see if the problem persists. Tag me if you need any help/advice.

its inexpensive, yes, but I wouldn't call it 'cheap' per-say. If your apprehensive about it, go with a known brand. Just trying provide options.

Why? and what exactly makes it bogus? can you recommend an alternative source of reference?

Based on this, it looks like a GeForce RTX 2070 would be a good option, or a GeForce GTX 1070.

@Jtalk4456, what about this one, its kinda loud though... THE LINK! I have the RGB version with different caps, I like mine. Edit: The whole thing is metal too, like if I had to club a baby seal, this is the keyboard I would use.

@LinusTech, Great video, I really enjoyed it. *puts two thumbs up*

My old Pentium D, it still works... I think.

Hi, if you know its the switch, and you feel confident that you can replace the switch, I think they are 'alps' switches (found on the google) I found some on ebay for $1.50 a pop. switch link Hope this helps, I'm not 100% sure if its a perfect replacement, your switches look like they have 3 contacts, the alps keyboard switches only have 2. From what I can tell the third lead isn't connected to anything, its there more for stability, so you might be ok.

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So, here's some background information. I was doing some spring cleaning and I found my old 'Modtek' case. It was a real shame to see it as dusty as it was, so I decided to do a case swap. Disclaimer: My rig is not top of the line, I am painfully aware already. In fact, I don't think it was top of the line when I built it.... so.... yeah. Yes, the cable management can be a lot better. Yes, my power supply is awful. Yes, that is a modem card, and yes, I still use it (it's great for faxing). Yes, those are cold cathode UV lights. No, its sata II. Yes, it dose have usb 3.0 *points to pcie card* No, I left the front panel IO disconnected. No, it doesn't bench very good. I did buy all the parts new, back in..... ???, I don't remember.... a long time ago? I'm really surprised the UV lights still worked, all the UV reactive fans had seized though. The alien eyes were also originally blue, I had to replace the led when I was cleaning it up, red was the only color I had on hand. Case (outside) Case (inside) Power Supply (view at your own risk) I'm really glad I dragged this case out of storage, it makes me smile. You may return to the future now.

My nephew asked me to help him build a desktop, so I did. This is that build..... Pictures of completed build: Cinebench Score: Other Benchy Stuff: Link to Parts List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/69FwWD Link to UserBenchMark Run: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/16641928 Link to CPU-Z Validator: https://valid.x86.fr/kbuu2q Criticism is always welcome.

Started programing, very young, with plans of world domination. Many years passed before I realized that I was a small fish in a big pond. So, I'm either going to find a smaller pond or a tiny world, I hear Pluto is nice.

I would go with a kit link or the pigrrl zero link I don't see anything wrong with the original pigrrl either, just take your time and don't get frustrated.

I was under the impression the OP was going to purchase a wrath max cooler in addition to the 2200g, the 2200g is still 100ish. Unless I'm ill informed and the 2200g comes with the wrath max (I have no idea what cooler comes in the box).

I totally over looked that, thanks. I don't think it would be a 38% price increase. According to PCpartspicker (USD) The ryzen 5 2400g can be had for 149.39. The ryzen 3 2200g with the wraith max is going for 134.22. That's only a 11% difference. I would think an 11% price increase for a 15% gain on average or 19% lows is justifiable.

here's my source link (its a nice read too) From that data set, looking at the max frames per second, the largest percent difference is Fortnite @ 1080, Medium Quality, a 35% increase. Looking at the minimum frames per second, the largest percent difference is Star-wars Battlefield II @ 720, Low Quality, a 64% increase. I attached my spreadsheet so a third party can tell me I'm wrong, or that I shouldn't have calculated the percent difference, or that I smoke wayyyy to much crack. data.xlsx