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HoneyBadger84

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About HoneyBadger84

  • Birthday Nov 15, 1984

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    https://steamcommunity.com/id/Mynxness/
  • Origin
    osnapitzcupcakez

Profile Information

  • Location
    de_overpass, USA

System

  • CPU
    AMD 5950X at 4.65GHz, 1.275V
  • Motherboard
    Asus Crosshair VIII Hero
  • RAM
    2 x 16GB G.Skill Trident Z Royal 3600MHz CL14-15-15-35-1T RAM (1.45V)
  • GPU
    eVGA RTX 3090 K|NGP|N
  • Case
    Thermaltake View 91
  • Storage
    Lots.
  • PSU
    eVGA SuperNova P2 1200W
  • Display(s)
    Samsung G9 Odyssey @ 5120 x 1440 @ 120/240Hz (on a monitor arm cuz the stand is insanely large)
  • Cooling
    EK Quantum Velocity CPU Block, 480mm XE Radiator (Push/Pull), D5 Pump
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K100 Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65 RGB Mouse (best mouse for a great price)
  • Sound
    Logitech G Pro X / Creative USB SoundBlaster 5.1 sound card
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64-Bit

Recent Profile Visitors

1,188 profile views
  1. The question was whether or not BIOS can be entered without a CPU installed to update the BIOS to a 5000-series ready BIOS or not. The Gigabyte board has the capability to do that. From what I've been looking at, it seems the MSI board may not be able to do this. That's pretty unfortunate if that's the case. I'd rather like to avoid having to spend extra on a motherboard AND having to spend even more getting a cheap AM4 CPU just to flash the BIOS to a 5000-series-ready BIOS. That would really tilt the scale in favor of the Gigabyte board despite the MSI having that M.2 expansion card.
  2. Title pretty much says it all, but the long version: Currently looking at a 5900x/5950x upgrade, the motherboards I'm looking at are the Gigabyte X570 AORUS Master, and the MSI X570 Prestige Creation - the main selling point of the Creation is more & more higher tier USB ports, and the M.2 card (which I can't really find a comparable one that's not an Asus card designed for Threadripper systems). My question is, does anyone own the MSI X570 Creation board, and have a 5000-series CPU, and if so, did you have to update BIOS for it to work, and does the board allow BIOS updates with no CPU installed (because the Gigabyte board DOES allow BIOS updating without a CPU installed, which is a big selling point for me since I really don't want to buy a cheap AM4 CPU just to update my BIOS to allow the 5900x/5950x to work, once I can actually get one). Thanks in advance!
  3. Figured I'd post back with an update: EK refunded me for the return shipping on the first return, they haven't on the second yet but they have said they will. Received a new, undamaged (thank goodness) AIO this time and everything seems to have been corrected thus far. Overall their customer service was very good, unfortunate they shipped out a damaged unit, but I suppose it happens... I don't understand HOW but at least they made it right lol
  4. EK got back to me this morning, they immediately said they'd send a new one out again and that they have no idea how it would even be shipped in that condition & they're looking in to it. They also offered a partial refund in the amount of the shipping costs associated with the returns. So that's cool. They asked me to open it & see if the AIO itself was damaged, as if it were not I could just keep it & take the refund on the shipping return of the first return, but unfortunately: I'm amazed it somehow did not leak. That is a DEEP hit, the frame of the AIO radiator itself is bent quite a bit on that side.
  5. It's either EK's US warehouse branch is terrible, or I'm having bad luck indeed. We'll see how they handle this time around.
  6. Yeah the Customer Service people via email/communication have been great so far. Like I said, they even sent out a new unit before the old one arrived to them... but whoever packaged that just... why? lol There's no way you wouldn't notice something like that, and it definitely didn't happen during shipping. It looks like the box got rammed by a forklift or something, to be honest, the hole is pretty sharp & only damaged the "plastic" the box is wrapped in slightly around the area of impact, that to me says it was something that hit it hard & sudden. Hopefully they continue to be nice & give me the prepaid return label this time. I really don't want to be out of $80 worth of "free" fans because of them shipping me a damaged item the second time after giving me a defective one the first time. lol
  7. I really don't even know. The original EK AIO 360 I got in did not perform correctly, ran hotter than the previous 280mm I had from Thermaltake. The EK AIO is supposed to be "the best there is" thermally for an AIO on CPUs... so I decided after remounting it several times & still having the issue (being sure on the last one that I had a good mount, which it was after I removed it, paste was nice & thin & evenly spread), that I would return it, and because I got it as a packaged deal from Amazon with 3 extra "free" fans (via EK being the direct seller, listed on Amazon) to do a return for an exchange, then I planned to resell just the AIO to a friend, and keep the extra 3 fans for later use on my build... So I sent the defective one back, EK was nice enough to mail out a new one before even receiving the returned one (which coincidentally, also arrived to them today), and it arrived today... [See pictures attached] Yeah. The outer UPS box is completely undamaged. So someone packaged it like that... That is a DEEP hole by the way, see the second picture, so there's no way something isn't damaged, and I'm not going to open it just to find out until they get back to me on it. At this point, I'm not even sure I want to continue this process rather than just get a refund. I sent a message in to EK again, I'm asking them to give me a return label that's paid this time (yes, I had to pay for the first return, which in of itself is kind of BS), if they don't do that, they will be giving me a complete refund for sure. If they provide a prepaid return label, I might go through one more exchange. Their customer service itself has been good & friendly, but someone seriously packaged it up in that condition and sent it? That's insane to me. Thought I'd post about this and see if anyone else has had a similarly bad experience?
  8. Anyone telling you a 4790K won't bottleneck a 2080 Ti has zero credibility imo. That's hogwash, if a 3930K like I used to have bottlenecks a 1080 Ti there's no way that processor wouldn't bottleneck a 2080 Ti or 3080. Even if it's 10%, 10% can be a big difference in games that run at the edge of GSync/VSync settings given whatever your monitor runs at, if you run that sort of thing. The question is HOW MUCH, not if, and I would wager the performance you'd see from going to a 9900K or 10900K would be "noticeable" but not astounding. I can tell you when I went from a 3930K to 9900K with my 1080 Ti, I saw quite large improvements in CPU-bound games (we're talking almost double the FPS in some instances), and still quite noticeable improvements in GPU intensive games, because of the system throughput improvements. Since you already have a 3080 on the way, enjoy it once it arrives, then plan on a smart-upgrade once the AMD 5000-series CPUs hit, since that will give you options on both sides of the table that are great upgrades.
  9. If your RAM is running in Dual Channel, at spec, it's not the issue. First check if you're running VSync/GSync/FreeSync or not as that will limit your GPU's load because it won't let your frame rate go above your set refresh rate. If that's not forced on, try uninstalling your GPU drivers, running DDU uninstaller to clear up any cobwebs the drivers might leave behind, the reinstalling the latest drivers that are supported by your OS/GPU from NVidia or AMD's website. In the future when looking for tech support of this type, it's very helpful to have your system specifications either in your signature, or in the post asking for help, so we know what you're working with.
  10. What country are you in? If you're in an area where eVGA offers RMAs, I highly recommend going with an eVGA card if you go the NVidia route, their warranty/support is top notch. I would recommend saving up for the next tier up in GPU though, a 1660 or 5600XT is going to give you better performance for not that much more money.
  11. Oddly enough, I'm seeing a similar randomly weird performance bug in one particular game I tested as well. I would recommend a DDU & driver reinstall as well like others have suggested, I'm probably going to do that myself & see what happens. What's odd is in my case it's an older game (Mafia 2), and it happened on both the 2070 Super I had & now the 3080 as well, so I'm thinking it's probably a driver issue. Oh, and good luck on the Step Up queue, I'm in it as well with my 2070 Super... if they actually allow me to get another 3080, I'm gonna see if I can step up my current 3080 to a 3090 & then resell the step up 3080... wow that hurts my brain just typing it.
  12. Need more information. What is his setup? How old is your PSU? What resolution are we talking about? Is your CPU overclocked, is his? What motherboard? What are your temperatures like compared to his? What case (a picture of your setup would be helpful as you may have some simple airflow issue you can fix)? You definitely shouldn't be seeing worse performance than a 1080 Ti, and I'm saying that as someone who went from a 1080 Ti FTW3 Hybrid to a 3080 FTW3 Ultra as of yesterday.
  13. The 3600 CL15 will be faster, but will it be a noticeable difference? Very much depends on the application/game being ran. For the size on the Radiator, you can just measure out 50+27mm from the front or where ever you're going to mount the radiator, in your case, and that's how much it would "stick out" from what it's being mounted to (first fan is 25mm, radiator is 27mm on 99% of AIOs, second fan is another 25mm). Just keep in mind you have to GET IT in where you want it to go, so you do need a bit more clearance than just the 77mm. Push Pull doesn't make a gigantic difference, but it makes a difference, and as bomb said, it can depend on the radiator & other factors. Most AIO radiators do see about the same improvement from Push/Pull as what Jayz video saw, because that was literally done with an AIO GPU loop radiator. Generally speaking, if you're going to a 280mm AIO, just push or just pull should be sufficient enough to bring your temps much lower than the load temps you're seeing now on air. I'm currently running a 280mm AIO on my 9900K & at 5GHz 1.3V the highest loads I see under AVX workloads are in the low 80s Celsius on the hot cores, high 70s Celsius on the cooler cores (but again I have Push/Pull, great ambient temps, and great airflow so we're not directly comparable - just giving you a point of comparison... and I run my radiator fans at 70% for noise reduction purposes, cranking them to 100% does drop temps further though, I do that when I'm stress testing new settings). I'm off to fiddle with this fancy new 3080 I got in today
  14. Iiiiiiiit's heeeeeeere! Note the CPU cooler is all janky tubing wise because it's going to be replaced sometime in the next month with a 360mm unit.
  15. You would need 2 kits of the same RAM to have 32GB running at the timings listed, without issues, by just enabling XMP. If you buy 2 of those kits, it should "just work" if you plug them in & enabled XMP. Mixing RAM usually isn't just plug and play, it requires some finesse, depending on how "smart" the board is about secondary timings. When I say push pull I mean like my radiator is setup now, here's a picture: See at the top how there's fans on both sides of it? The "bottom" fans are pushing air through, top fans are pulling air out. This can help with temperatures a good bit, if your can fit a radiator with push/pull mounted in your case. In testing JayzTwoCents did it had a 2-7C temperature difference compared to just push or just pull, and that was on a GPU AIO, so it would likely have an even larger effect on a CPU radiator.
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