Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards

About HoneyBadger84

  • Title
  • Birthday 1984-11-15

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Origin

Profile Information

  • Location
    de_overpass, USA


  • CPU
    i9 9900k @ 5GHz 1.3V
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Z390 AORUS Master
  • RAM
    4x8GB G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3600MHz CL16
  • GPU
    eVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 Hybrid
  • Case
    Thermaltake View 91
  • Storage
    Samsung SSDs (2x1TB), Seagate SSHD 2TB
  • PSU
    eVGA SuperNova P2 1200W
  • Display(s)
    Alienware AW3418DW (3440x1440 @ 100-120Hz)
  • Cooling
    Thermaltake Floe 280mm AIO on the CPU with push/pull fans
  • Keyboard
    Alienware Gaming RGB Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502SE Hero
  • Sound
    Sennheiser GSP 350 Headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64-Bit

Recent Profile Visitors

534 profile views
  1. Anyone telling you a 4790K won't bottleneck a 2080 Ti has zero credibility imo. That's hogwash, if a 3930K like I used to have bottlenecks a 1080 Ti there's no way that processor wouldn't bottleneck a 2080 Ti or 3080. Even if it's 10%, 10% can be a big difference in games that run at the edge of GSync/VSync settings given whatever your monitor runs at, if you run that sort of thing. The question is HOW MUCH, not if, and I would wager the performance you'd see from going to a 9900K or 10900K would be "noticeable" but not astounding. I can tell you when I went from a 3930K to 9900K with my 1080 Ti, I saw quite large improvements in CPU-bound games (we're talking almost double the FPS in some instances), and still quite noticeable improvements in GPU intensive games, because of the system throughput improvements. Since you already have a 3080 on the way, enjoy it once it arrives, then plan on a smart-upgrade once the AMD 5000-series CPUs hit, since that will give you options on both sides of the table that are great upgrades.
  2. If your RAM is running in Dual Channel, at spec, it's not the issue. First check if you're running VSync/GSync/FreeSync or not as that will limit your GPU's load because it won't let your frame rate go above your set refresh rate. If that's not forced on, try uninstalling your GPU drivers, running DDU uninstaller to clear up any cobwebs the drivers might leave behind, the reinstalling the latest drivers that are supported by your OS/GPU from NVidia or AMD's website. In the future when looking for tech support of this type, it's very helpful to have your system specifications either in your signature, or in the post asking for help, so we know what you're working with.
  3. What country are you in? If you're in an area where eVGA offers RMAs, I highly recommend going with an eVGA card if you go the NVidia route, their warranty/support is top notch. I would recommend saving up for the next tier up in GPU though, a 1660 or 5600XT is going to give you better performance for not that much more money.
  4. Oddly enough, I'm seeing a similar randomly weird performance bug in one particular game I tested as well. I would recommend a DDU & driver reinstall as well like others have suggested, I'm probably going to do that myself & see what happens. What's odd is in my case it's an older game (Mafia 2), and it happened on both the 2070 Super I had & now the 3080 as well, so I'm thinking it's probably a driver issue. Oh, and good luck on the Step Up queue, I'm in it as well with my 2070 Super... if they actually allow me to get another 3080, I'm gonna see if I can step up my current 3080 to a 3090 & then resell the step up 3080... wow that hurts my brain just typing it.
  5. Need more information. What is his setup? How old is your PSU? What resolution are we talking about? Is your CPU overclocked, is his? What motherboard? What are your temperatures like compared to his? What case (a picture of your setup would be helpful as you may have some simple airflow issue you can fix)? You definitely shouldn't be seeing worse performance than a 1080 Ti, and I'm saying that as someone who went from a 1080 Ti FTW3 Hybrid to a 3080 FTW3 Ultra as of yesterday.
  6. The 3600 CL15 will be faster, but will it be a noticeable difference? Very much depends on the application/game being ran. For the size on the Radiator, you can just measure out 50+27mm from the front or where ever you're going to mount the radiator, in your case, and that's how much it would "stick out" from what it's being mounted to (first fan is 25mm, radiator is 27mm on 99% of AIOs, second fan is another 25mm). Just keep in mind you have to GET IT in where you want it to go, so you do need a bit more clearance than just the 77mm. Push Pull doesn't make a gigantic difference, but it makes a difference, and as bomb said, it can depend on the radiator & other factors. Most AIO radiators do see about the same improvement from Push/Pull as what Jayz video saw, because that was literally done with an AIO GPU loop radiator. Generally speaking, if you're going to a 280mm AIO, just push or just pull should be sufficient enough to bring your temps much lower than the load temps you're seeing now on air. I'm currently running a 280mm AIO on my 9900K & at 5GHz 1.3V the highest loads I see under AVX workloads are in the low 80s Celsius on the hot cores, high 70s Celsius on the cooler cores (but again I have Push/Pull, great ambient temps, and great airflow so we're not directly comparable - just giving you a point of comparison... and I run my radiator fans at 70% for noise reduction purposes, cranking them to 100% does drop temps further though, I do that when I'm stress testing new settings). I'm off to fiddle with this fancy new 3080 I got in today
  7. Iiiiiiiit's heeeeeeere! Note the CPU cooler is all janky tubing wise because it's going to be replaced sometime in the next month with a 360mm unit.
  8. You would need 2 kits of the same RAM to have 32GB running at the timings listed, without issues, by just enabling XMP. If you buy 2 of those kits, it should "just work" if you plug them in & enabled XMP. Mixing RAM usually isn't just plug and play, it requires some finesse, depending on how "smart" the board is about secondary timings. When I say push pull I mean like my radiator is setup now, here's a picture: See at the top how there's fans on both sides of it? The "bottom" fans are pushing air through, top fans are pulling air out. This can help with temperatures a good bit, if your can fit a radiator with push/pull mounted in your case. In testing JayzTwoCents did it had a 2-7C temperature difference compared to just push or just pull, and that was on a GPU AIO, so it would likely have an even larger effect on a CPU radiator.
  9. The short answer on the cooler is yes but: The long answer is if you can fit a bigger cooler, get a 360 or 280 mm - like the one you linked. A 240 is going to perform slightly better than your current air-cooler, but the 9900K will overwhelm it at high load depending on your voltage. 280mm/360mm are better for the 9900K because of it's heat output. I would recommend if you're going to go for 4 sticks of RAM, to just buy another set of the RAM you already have & thereby have 32GB, and you know they match so there won't be any issues with timings. I wouldn't go with a single 2x16GB kit because of the memory layout issues we discussed before - and mixing RAM sticks can lead to issues with the motherboard setting the secondary timings wrong, resulting in instability. The Cooler is definitely a good idea though, at the very least it will fix any RAM clearance issues, and give you better temperatures... if possible, try to plan on doing push/pull on the radiator (fans on both sides, one side pushing air through, the other pulling it out) as this can improve temperatures vs just push or just pull, by 2-7C under heavy loads, which with the 9900K can be the difference between you throttling & not throttling.
  10. 3200MHz is actually the "sweet spot" and anything over that has severely diminishing returns, see these videos: Linus also did one but it's about 3 years old, so a little less relevant. As for the 8K question, nothing that's in existence now will be ideal for that, would be my guess, which is why most of the "8K gaming" hoopla about the 3090 is just utter BS, and most of it involves DLSS being on (and thusly reducing the resolution to 1440p or 4K). I think it's safe to say anything we have now won't be up to snuff that far down the road (5 years). With the way games are getting more demanding, and as we've seen in the last 5 years, hardware will evolve enough that a 5 year old system will be considered "slow", but not obsolete, by then. Also, as you go up in resolution, RAM speed, and even CPU speed for that matter, matters less, the GPU is the most important component by far when you're talking about gaming at 4K.
  11. Buying a second kit of what you have & thereby getting up to 32GB would be the ideal thing to do then. It's not that your RAM is "bad", it's just not super-fast. If you're planning on gaming at 4K eventually with a higher end GPU, 32GBs is definitely advised as some games are resource hogs, and it's sure to get more noticeable as next-gen console games come out, since next-gen consoles have more RAM. The cost to performance increase of going to something like 3200MHz CL14 or 3600MHz CL16 is not worth the expenditure in your case, getting a second kit of what you already have to get 32GB is though, as it will make your system more "future proof" than it is now. I'd go that route.
  12. Lowering your voltages is never going to "break" anything. It may result in a non-boot or instability if you go too low, but it won't break anything. Raising your voltage is where you can start going in to dangerous territory depending on what component you're doing it to. From what I'm seeing from a quick search, most people are able to hit 4.2-4.3GHz on your model of CPU with around 1.35V. I would try that as your CPU voltage setting, and see if it tests stable. That would be reducing your voltage from what I've read of how your current stuff is reading out. You definitely should update to the most current BIOS for your motherboard, as that may help with these issues. Often BIOS updates improve default stability settings, as well compatibility with CPUs & RAM. It could well be the BIOS your on now is simply setting the default voltage on your chip wrong because it doesn't know any better, and it was fixed in an update. Most motherboards have built in BIOS updaters in the BIOS now, if yours doesn't have that, you should be able to look up how to do it on YouTube or Google.
  13. I would see if you can find this one at a retailer you can get it from without too much import tax or whatnot: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-LPX/p/CMK32GX4M4B3200C16 It's on Amazon for me, but I'm in the US: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-32GB-3200MHz-Memory/dp/B017NW5RW8 - that's well within your price range in USD though, it's 4x8GB, CL16 3200MHz, the timings aren't spectacular, but they're acceptable, especially given the price.
  14. So according to Buildzoid (someone very informed on electrical layout of PCBs/motherboards/video cards, and RAM overclocking/configuration) - Asus & Gigabyte both use T-Topology Memory layouts on Z390 platforms. So it would be "better" for future potential overclocking, and general stability, if you get a 4-DIMM memory set, so 4 sticks. So either 4x4GB or 4x8GB would be better for your board, as having "empty" slots actually increases "noise" and can lead to lower performance... it's not super-important, just "better" for the board & memory controller (on the CPU).
  15. Let me have a look see & figure out what kind of RAM/CPU communications layout your motherboard has that way I know if 4-DIMMs or 2 DIMMs of RAM is better for your case.