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HoneyBadger84

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Everything posted by HoneyBadger84

  1. Figured I'd post back with an update: EK refunded me for the return shipping on the first return, they haven't on the second yet but they have said they will. Received a new, undamaged (thank goodness) AIO this time and everything seems to have been corrected thus far. Overall their customer service was very good, unfortunate they shipped out a damaged unit, but I suppose it happens... I don't understand HOW but at least they made it right lol
  2. EK got back to me this morning, they immediately said they'd send a new one out again and that they have no idea how it would even be shipped in that condition & they're looking in to it. They also offered a partial refund in the amount of the shipping costs associated with the returns. So that's cool. They asked me to open it & see if the AIO itself was damaged, as if it were not I could just keep it & take the refund on the shipping return of the first return, but unfortunately: I'm amazed it somehow did not leak. That is a DEEP hit,
  3. It's either EK's US warehouse branch is terrible, or I'm having bad luck indeed. We'll see how they handle this time around.
  4. Yeah the Customer Service people via email/communication have been great so far. Like I said, they even sent out a new unit before the old one arrived to them... but whoever packaged that just... why? lol There's no way you wouldn't notice something like that, and it definitely didn't happen during shipping. It looks like the box got rammed by a forklift or something, to be honest, the hole is pretty sharp & only damaged the "plastic" the box is wrapped in slightly around the area of impact, that to me says it was something that hit it hard & sudden. Hopefully they continu
  5. I really don't even know. The original EK AIO 360 I got in did not perform correctly, ran hotter than the previous 280mm I had from Thermaltake. The EK AIO is supposed to be "the best there is" thermally for an AIO on CPUs... so I decided after remounting it several times & still having the issue (being sure on the last one that I had a good mount, which it was after I removed it, paste was nice & thin & evenly spread), that I would return it, and because I got it as a packaged deal from Amazon with 3 extra "free" fans (via EK being the direct seller, listed on Amazon)
  6. Anyone telling you a 4790K won't bottleneck a 2080 Ti has zero credibility imo. That's hogwash, if a 3930K like I used to have bottlenecks a 1080 Ti there's no way that processor wouldn't bottleneck a 2080 Ti or 3080. Even if it's 10%, 10% can be a big difference in games that run at the edge of GSync/VSync settings given whatever your monitor runs at, if you run that sort of thing. The question is HOW MUCH, not if, and I would wager the performance you'd see from going to a 9900K or 10900K would be "noticeable" but not astounding. I can tell you when I went from a 3930K to 990
  7. If your RAM is running in Dual Channel, at spec, it's not the issue. First check if you're running VSync/GSync/FreeSync or not as that will limit your GPU's load because it won't let your frame rate go above your set refresh rate. If that's not forced on, try uninstalling your GPU drivers, running DDU uninstaller to clear up any cobwebs the drivers might leave behind, the reinstalling the latest drivers that are supported by your OS/GPU from NVidia or AMD's website. In the future when looking for tech support of this type, it's very helpful to have your system specifications
  8. What country are you in? If you're in an area where eVGA offers RMAs, I highly recommend going with an eVGA card if you go the NVidia route, their warranty/support is top notch. I would recommend saving up for the next tier up in GPU though, a 1660 or 5600XT is going to give you better performance for not that much more money.
  9. Oddly enough, I'm seeing a similar randomly weird performance bug in one particular game I tested as well. I would recommend a DDU & driver reinstall as well like others have suggested, I'm probably going to do that myself & see what happens. What's odd is in my case it's an older game (Mafia 2), and it happened on both the 2070 Super I had & now the 3080 as well, so I'm thinking it's probably a driver issue. Oh, and good luck on the Step Up queue, I'm in it as well with my 2070 Super... if they actually allow me to get another 3080, I'm gonna see if I can step up
  10. Need more information. What is his setup? How old is your PSU? What resolution are we talking about? Is your CPU overclocked, is his? What motherboard? What are your temperatures like compared to his? What case (a picture of your setup would be helpful as you may have some simple airflow issue you can fix)? You definitely shouldn't be seeing worse performance than a 1080 Ti, and I'm saying that as someone who went from a 1080 Ti FTW3 Hybrid to a 3080 FTW3 Ultra as of yesterday.
  11. The 3600 CL15 will be faster, but will it be a noticeable difference? Very much depends on the application/game being ran. For the size on the Radiator, you can just measure out 50+27mm from the front or where ever you're going to mount the radiator, in your case, and that's how much it would "stick out" from what it's being mounted to (first fan is 25mm, radiator is 27mm on 99% of AIOs, second fan is another 25mm). Just keep in mind you have to GET IT in where you want it to go, so you do need a bit more clearance than just the 77mm. Push Pull doesn't make a gigantic
  12. Iiiiiiiit's heeeeeeere! Note the CPU cooler is all janky tubing wise because it's going to be replaced sometime in the next month with a 360mm unit.
  13. You would need 2 kits of the same RAM to have 32GB running at the timings listed, without issues, by just enabling XMP. If you buy 2 of those kits, it should "just work" if you plug them in & enabled XMP. Mixing RAM usually isn't just plug and play, it requires some finesse, depending on how "smart" the board is about secondary timings. When I say push pull I mean like my radiator is setup now, here's a picture: See at the top how there's fans on both sides of it? The "bottom" fans are pushing air through, top fans are pulling air out. This can help w
  14. The short answer on the cooler is yes but: The long answer is if you can fit a bigger cooler, get a 360 or 280 mm - like the one you linked. A 240 is going to perform slightly better than your current air-cooler, but the 9900K will overwhelm it at high load depending on your voltage. 280mm/360mm are better for the 9900K because of it's heat output. I would recommend if you're going to go for 4 sticks of RAM, to just buy another set of the RAM you already have & thereby have 32GB, and you know they match so there won't be any issues with timings. I wouldn't go with a single 2x1
  15. 3200MHz is actually the "sweet spot" and anything over that has severely diminishing returns, see these videos: Linus also did one but it's about 3 years old, so a little less relevant. As for the 8K question, nothing that's in existence now will be ideal for that, would be my guess, which is why most of the "8K gaming" hoopla about the 3090 is just utter BS, and most of it involves DLSS being on (and thusly reducing the resolution to 1440p or 4K). I think it's safe to say anything we have now won't be up to snuff that far down the roa
  16. Buying a second kit of what you have & thereby getting up to 32GB would be the ideal thing to do then. It's not that your RAM is "bad", it's just not super-fast. If you're planning on gaming at 4K eventually with a higher end GPU, 32GBs is definitely advised as some games are resource hogs, and it's sure to get more noticeable as next-gen console games come out, since next-gen consoles have more RAM. The cost to performance increase of going to something like 3200MHz CL14 or 3600MHz CL16 is not worth the expenditure in your case, getting a second kit of what you already have to ge
  17. Lowering your voltages is never going to "break" anything. It may result in a non-boot or instability if you go too low, but it won't break anything. Raising your voltage is where you can start going in to dangerous territory depending on what component you're doing it to. From what I'm seeing from a quick search, most people are able to hit 4.2-4.3GHz on your model of CPU with around 1.35V. I would try that as your CPU voltage setting, and see if it tests stable. That would be reducing your voltage from what I've read of how your current stuff is reading out. You definite
  18. I would see if you can find this one at a retailer you can get it from without too much import tax or whatnot: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-LPX/p/CMK32GX4M4B3200C16 It's on Amazon for me, but I'm in the US: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-32GB-3200MHz-Memory/dp/B017NW5RW8 - that's well within your price range in USD though, it's 4x8GB, CL16 3200MHz, the timings aren't spectacular, but they're acceptable, especially given the price.
  19. So according to Buildzoid (someone very informed on electrical layout of PCBs/motherboards/video cards, and RAM overclocking/configuration) - Asus & Gigabyte both use T-Topology Memory layouts on Z390 platforms. So it would be "better" for future potential overclocking, and general stability, if you get a 4-DIMM memory set, so 4 sticks. So either 4x4GB or 4x8GB would be better for your board, as having "empty" slots actually increases "noise" and can lead to lower performance... it's not super-important, just "better" for the board & memory controller (on the CPU).
  20. Let me have a look see & figure out what kind of RAM/CPU communications layout your motherboard has that way I know if 4-DIMMs or 2 DIMMs of RAM is better for your case.
  21. https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-LPX/p/CMK16GX4M2Z3600C14 That one runs around $200 if you can find it, and has pretty great XMP profile settings. Are you wanting to go up to 32GBs or stay at 16GB? If you're fine with staying with 16GB, that lowers your "price bracket" by a good bit, since 32GB kits run a pretty penny in comparison.
  22. Advice: If you're wanting a GPU now, but you want a 30-series card for sure, buy an eVGA card from an authorized retailer, then you can register for Step-Up after you get it, for a 30-series card. This will allow you to have a 20-series card "now" to enjoy, and guarantee that "eventually" you're going to get a 30-series card. That's basically what I did... then I ended up getting a 3080 directly the other day, it will be here Tuesday. But yeah, if you're able to, get an eVGA 2070 Super or simiilar, and then register for Step-Up, you get the best of both worlds, a nice upgrade now, a
  23. Check to see if your motherboard has T-topology layout our the other one (forget it's name) for RAM configurations. If it has the same type of layout as my motherboard, it's actually "better" for the motherboard to have all memory channels populated. Also, CL18 is garbage at 3600MHz, I would get a higher tier kit if you can afford it. Definitely make sure the RAM is on your motherboard's QVL list, to be safe & make sure XMP will "just work" 100%. I would look for something in the 3200-3600MHz range, if you go with 3200MHz look for CL14 or better, if it's 3600MHz l
  24. Went a few chips lower on the voltage & it's passed everything I've thrown at it so far with the same Voltage Regulation settings, which is nice. Temps were a bit "toasty" because of my ambient being a little bit warmer than normal. AIDA64 CPU + Memory passed for an hour with the following results: CPU + FPU passed 10 minutes (I will run it for longer eventually when my ambient is cooler, you'll see why when you see the temps lol): Also passed a whole suite of 3DMark testing (Time Spy, Port Royal, Firestrike, etc) but I'm not b
  25. Yeah I'd love to get a 3090 as well but I cannot justify spending an extra $1k for 10-15% more performance in my case at this time. The 3080 FTW3 Ultra will be quite a nice improvement for me over the 1080 Ti FTW3 Hybrid I've been running for 2 years, especially given I'm at 3440 x 1440 which means the increase in vRAM throughput will be more leveraged than at lower resolutions. I don't see 8K being possible at good settings without DLSS for at least 3-4 years, would be my guess. That's actually one thing I'm looking forward to trying out is DLSS on games that support 2.0 - H
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