TLOUFoREVer

Also consider if the RTX 2070 might be in your price range.  If so, might be better waiting to see how it performs in real-world tests before spending any money.

Good thought, but might be worthless if their router doesn't support 801.11ac or 5ghz band. You should check what your router is compatible with first. Also 5ghz has its own issues such as poor penetration/deflection and range.
 
Z370 motherboards are for overclocking. The non 'k' i7 8700 is not overclockable, so a Z370 motherboard may not be required. It will still work regardless, but you may just be spending more than you need to for features you can't use if you're not buying an overclockable 'k' series CPU. Either pair the i7 8700 with a less expensive Intel H370/B360 motherboard, or pair the Z370 motherboard with an overclockable 8600k or 8700k CPU.
 
And @seon123 has already beat me to the rest. Everything he's mentioned is good advice.

For just gaming? 
Then drop the NVMe drive all together, and drop the CPU to the 8400. Upgrade the GPU to the 1070 Ti. Alternatively the 1080, which performs ~5% better than the 1070 Ti. You'll have to do the maths yourself to figure out if it's worth it over the 1070 Ti (as in literally finding out if the price/performance gets better). 
For the 8400, the stock cooler should be fine. You can add a better cooler later, if you find it to be too annoying. 

Without knowing what you'll use it for, it's hard to say too much. 
 
Instead of getting an expensive case, and compromising a lot other places, get a cheaper case and decent parts for the rest of the PC. 
Faster RAM will improve the performance. The brand won't. 
Using an NVMe drive as a boot drive is a waste of money. For the boot drive, use a cheaper, but good, SATA based SSD. 
Swap the PSU for a decent one. Focus 450W, Formula 450W, Whisper M 450W, Straight Power 11 450W, RM550x 2018, RM550x, as a few examples. 
Don't know the price of the cooler, but if the M9i or Pure Rock Slim cost less, get one of those. 
Instead of WiFi, use ethernet or a powerline system. 

It will probably work fine if you aren't overclocking, but I'd be tempted to go for a higher rated PSU if it were me.
 
Have you looked around to see if you can find a 1070 Ti for a similar price?  Its quite a bit faster (especially overclocked) if you can.
 
I would get something 802.11ac for WiFi, 2.4Ghz is really slow by todays standards and prone to tons of interference.  I get 30Mbit on a good day, 1Mbit on a bad one.  On 802.11ac however I consistently get 300Mbit in the same room and if my router wasn't getting a bit old I should get twice that.

Get a better psu. Like an EVGA gq or a Corsair TX series or something similar, also get the 8700k or the 8600k not just an 8700.
 

Thank you very much! A broad range of numbers is better than me having no idea at all

So assuming a 120Hz monitor and a 120 FPS output from the GPU, every 8.3333 ms (1/120th of a second) a new frame is generated and sent to the monitor to display. The pixels START changing colors. The response time is the time it takes for the pixels to go from the old frame color to the new frame color. The shorter the better obviously. In a 120Hz monitor if the response time is for example 1ms (for all pixels, see below) it will take 1ms for all pixels to change and then for the remainder of this cycle (7.333 next ms) the frame will be static. We can all see how if the response time is greater than 8.333 ms for a 120Hz screen this would be terrible as the pixels would never quite achieve the final color of the current frame before having to start displaying the next frame again.

Of note response time is not uniform! The reported response time is actually a weighted average. For any given monitor the response time varies for pixels depending on the colors they are going to/from, more specifically the shade of grey of the old/new frame.

Also mentioned in that thread is the fact that most monitors with response times of 1-4ms use something called "overdrive" which will change the pixels color faster but will sometimes overshoot leading to a different kind of image distortion (not blurriness as it is fast, but sometimes does not get the exact color wanted).

Again I take no credit for these concepts, just regurgitationg what I learned from:

http://120hz.net/showthread.php?3357-Please-explain-relationship-of-Refresh-rate-%28Hz%29-and-refresh-speed%28ms%29&p=26900#post26900

Hope this educates some of you guys too it sure helped me figure this out

in general, frame time 2-3 times your average frame time will lead to noticeable stutters. That's a broad range of numbers.

everyone feels this in a different way, so there's no concrete answer.

Cool ... good luck with your build ??

Yeah....if ur frame rates fluctuate...u can even drop down some settings...

The second build can easily provide over 60fps at max settings.....at 1080p in gta V

The one u shared wouldn't give u a good price to performance....
The build I shared first would crush gta 5 at 1440p....8700+1080ti=beast
The second one can easily give u over 100fps at 1080p
 

Well ...in that budget... U can build a beast of a gaming PC...
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor  (£278.18 @ PC World Business) 
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler  (£34.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk) 
Motherboard: ASRock - H370M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  (£80.48 @ CCL Computers) 
Memory: Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (£144.95 @ CCL Computers) 
Storage: Team - L5 LITE 3D 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (£74.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk) 
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (£50.98 @ Amazon UK) 
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB DUKE OC Video Card  (£548.68 @ Amazon UK) 
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case  (£65.47 @ Scan.co.uk) 
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  (£92.25 @ CCL Computers) 
Total: £1370.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-07 18:46 BST+0100

The Pc build I have posted above is an overkill for 1080p....
If u intend to play at 1080p...then u can save a buck and build something like this..
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor  (£161.96 @ PC World Business) 
Motherboard: ASRock - B360M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  (£78.02 @ CCL Computers) 
Memory: Team - Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (£78.27 @ CCL Computers) 
Storage: Team - L5 LITE 3D 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (£74.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk) 
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (£50.98 @ Amazon UK) 
Video Card: PowerColor - Radeon RX 580 8GB Red Devil Video Card  (£219.47 @ Amazon UK) 
Case: Cooler Master - MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case  (£54.40 @ Alza) 
Power Supply: Cooler Master - MasterWatt 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  (£52.94 @ Box Limited) 
Total: £771.03
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-07 18:54 BST+0100

just get the first one then

That overlay is using MSI Afterburner, which displays memory at one speed down from maximum. On GDDR5, it will show the doubled memory speed instead of the quadrupled memory speed, and on GDDR5X it will show the quadrupled memory speed instead of the octople'd memory speed. Here, you can see that on a 1080 it shows 5400MHz instead of the 10800MHz my card is effectively running at:
 

Your not wrong. I'm a 25 series in the USAR (United States Army Reserves) currently, and I'm looking to contract as an officer and go full time Army. (the 25 series in anything to do with signal, so computers, internet, satellites, radio, ect. I'm specifically a 25B which is an IT Specialist)

Should be able to tackle High or mostly Ultra without issues.

I can run most games on at least medium, better optimized games I can run Ultra. GTA 5 I'm pretty sure was at least High settings. (I have over 100 games in my steam library but don't have a NAS to store them all)

No, I currently use an i5 8400 with a 1050 TI, and don't suffer any issues, except with unoptimized titles, like Arma 3.

Quick break down, at 1080p gaming, your CPU is more likely to bottleneck than your GPU (as long as its current or last gen) in most cases.

Well, yes, I meant in full, NMVe M.2 SSD > SATA SSD.
 
It's true in this instance, the 970 Evo can do "Read speeds up to 3,500MB/s", I don't think I need to read the first build's SSD to know it's inferior.

You're mixing up your terms, comparing things that aren't related. M.2 is a form factor, and NVMe is a protocol. PCIe and SATA are interfaces.
 
In this case you are correct about the 970 Evo being better, but for a boot drive sequential speeds don't matter. It's the random read speeds that matter. That's why a quality SATA drive can be faster than a cheap PCIe one (such as the 600p series).