kodi41

Howdy again Ryan, well I tried it, the interface takes some experience to use and there is a learning curve for sure. I think this app is more intended towards editing rather then out right audio quality, but your mileage may vary. It did, however, find every single audio path available in the software I have available and can be used via USB. After I installed it I could notice a difference in the sound. But hey I love to try new stuff. Keep in mind room acoustics and the speaker that is used at that time. One should strive to match the room and the system as a whole.

LOL, dude I am going to stop responding to your posts- you are an angry person. Perhaps I mis-read you when you stated : "1 is an updated S/PDIF interface/format that ONLY carries lossless digital audio, not video like HDMI and DP" I know for a fact you are indeed- WRONG. You need to learn what you are talking about and how to set windows up correctly in accordance with the equipment you have. I own the stuff which I speak of, actual experience- not crap that you have googled. I have well over 40k in HT/Audio gear and lots of stuff sitting around doing nothing. In my new post I will break it down for you why in fact you are completely incorrect and shoveling misinformation. Till then have a great day.

wow Wow- you sound angry. Preconceived? Either way never mind. Just trying to help. BTW, if you did some research you would find they are not 1.25 meters tall they are about 10 to 12 inches with a small foot print and will blow the doors off of your Yamaha set up. But then you know what yer talking about so I'll leave you to it. Have a great day.

well I will try it out.

Ryan will this work at the USB level?

JZ check these out- new they were 2k- that woofer can easily be replaced/repaired. They are left and right and notice they have presence switches, really help when critical listening. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Miller-Kreisel-M-K-S-100-Speakers/323475654486?hash=item4b50a6c756:g:LgwAAOSwUIxbsPzh or these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Of-M-K-Miller-Kreisel-SOUND-K5-Satellite-Speaker-1-K7-Satellite-White-K-5/323456858836?hash=item4b4f87fad4:g:ZMgAAOSwXUdbo94r

JZ, I have a Creative 7.1 system I am not using- It is very good for what it is- better then Klipsch Promedia IMHO which I also have. They are both in the garage presently. HT box stuff generally is not of very good quality- I mean no offence. Were it me, I would concentrate on the front mains and the sub. FYi, since you want small- check out M&K very good stuff and there are plenty on eBay for very good prices. M&K subs are very good I own 2 of their MX-350's for my HT set up. Then as you build the system up you can upgrade the receiver.

What he said is very true I tried 4 different tv's I finally bought an Acer 43inch PC monitor- got it on sale direct from Acer outlet for $350.00 and free shipping Killer monitor for my purposes. input lag is 5ms. However LG makes basically the same monitor- but with remote control and a few other very nice features.

Howdy, Most older audio receivers and integrated amps say pre 1990 had onboard phono amps built into them. Since you're from the UK it appears you have some really good options via eBay. You Britts build good audio gear. Any thing from Musical Fidelity, Arcam, Linn, Revox, Cambridge (all British built) or some of the "built" in Japan units are actually very good. I own an Arcam FMJ A28, great little amp, built in RIAA phono section- no phono amp required. It's no Krell but still very good. One thing, you have to know what type of cartridge your running on the TT. MC or MM This determine what type of phono section you will need The most popular is MM.

this card does support 10 bit color. may I ask are you running with HDMI or DP? Also is the monitor 10 bit capable?

maybe just buy a 4k smart tv with wireless? that's what I've done I really enjoy it.

to the OP check out this link- https://usa.denon.com/us/product/hometheater/receivers

Hi guys, hey I just wrote a guide on how to do what the OP wants to do. All be it I didn't include an audio portion. I can if you like. There a few things stated here that are incorrect. Much depends on the components you have selected. HDMI 2.0 supports 4k and Atmos as does DP 1.2. As for audio, if all you need is video just don't use the HDMI for audio, you can select what audio you want, this is done via your pc sound settings. I run my audio setup in 2.1ch mode for my PC via USB from my PC to a PS Audio DAC and a Krell Amplifier and M&K sub. All the new Denon Receivers can do all of this very easily, and cheap too, if your really wanting 7.1 audio or greater and all the Video you could desire. does not support video Also, why not use a monitor with multiple inputs? Both LG and Acer make 4k 43 inch units that can handle 4 or more inputs. You simply select which device from the monitors input selector. EDIT: One other thing, most M/B's have numerous different sound output options. My set up has 7 options- 2 different HDMI's one from Intel and one from Nvidia, USB, Optical, Coaxial (RCA) and the onboard Realtek. That is 7 available audio options for my set up. Most M/B's today have the same if not more. Not to mention if you wanted you could add a Creative, M-Audio , or other brand. Hope this helps.

Hello everyone. I finally finished the HTPC and I am very satisfied with it. I will tell you what my choice of equipment is and then my experiences as best I can. (my set up is in my sig) I hope this will help anyone wanting to build a 4k PC. After lots of research I finally decided on the motherboard, initially. I went with a Supermicro Z170 OCE. However, after I built the system with this board it didn't support a few features I wanted, so I went with the Asus Z270 WS. This is a great mother board and is fully compliant out of the box. Note: Both boards support 4k for the PC with BIOS update. If you are curious about the requirements to watch 4k streaming services, here is what you need: A 4k compliant mother board, which must also support HDMI 2.0 and up and or DP 1.2 and up, and a BIOS that supports Intel SGX (you must enable this in your BIOS), a 7th gen Intel CPU With onboard graphics, and the Intel Graphics drivers- (more on this later) and of course a 4k compliant monitor / TV that fully supports HDMI 2.0 and up. / DP 1.2 and up. That's it- that's all you need. For Netflix users you must pay a little extra for the ability to view 4k. And Obviously, an internet connection with decent bandwidth. You do not need special audio drivers, nor an HDMI compliant reciever/preamp or Blu-ray ultra player (unless you want to have additional audio and video features) nor do you even need a separate graphics card. To my knowledge no present graphics cards allow for 4k streaming services. How to get around this? Use the included intel graphics built into your CPU and your existing Graphics card at the same time. To enable 4k, and if you meet the above criteria, go to your system BIOS select the video section and select multiple display's, remember make sure Intel SGX is turned on, this is also in the BIOS setting's- usually with in the CPU section, if it's not on, turn it on. After these two selections are enabled, save and reboot. Let the PC boot up and then shut the system down. Now Connect either the HDMI or the DP cable from your onboard graphics (not your GPU) to your monitor. Depending on your monitor you may have to manually select which mode your monitor is using, select which ever cable type you have connected from your PC to your monitor with in your monitor settings function. Now boot up your PC. At this point you must have the Intel Graphics drivers installed, be sure to use the latest version, as this really makes a big difference in video performance. If you have the Intel graphics drivers installed, navigate to the task bar and open the Intel graphics settings, make sure every thing is set to your preferences. For obvious reasons the display setting should be at 4k (3840x2160). I have a 10bit color monitor so I have that setting at 10 bit, as mentioned, set up to your liking. Wait, what about my GPU can't I use it too? Sure. Ah- easy, simply shut down the system, and connect either an HDMI or DP cable from your GPU to your monitor, in your monitors properties select either- auto, HDMI or DP. Make sure to use the opposite type cable from which you selected for the Intel Graphics vs. your GPU. For example: if you use an HDMI cable for the on-board graphics, then use a DP cable for your GPU. This is the method I recommend, as DP has more bandwidth capability. You can now use one monitor and both graphics types from with in Windows by simply selecting which display you wish to use from the Windows graphics tab. Note: some monitors may have to be manually selected from with in the monitors setting as well. (i.e DP or HDMI) Remember to view 4k streams you must use the Intel Graphics, NOT your GPU. So, on the relatively cheap, you can have the best of both worlds. You are now ready to view 4k streams. Congrats and enjoy.