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iKingRPG

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Posts posted by iKingRPG

  1. Usually when someone says "Ok boomer", they're making fun of someones mindset, not their actual age, unless they're just trying to be a jerk to older people. For example, a 30 year old that uses CDs to listen to music could be called a Boomer for not using streaming services or something more modern, because CDs are obsolete. But if a 30 or 60 year old was seen using Spotify, they probably wouldn't be called a boomer. See, it's not about age.

     

    In fact, it seems like most of the people who are called boomers aren't actually Baby Boomers. "Boomer" used in this context means a person who thinks their old way of doing things is superior, even if it is not. Can also just mean people who close minded and hesitant to any sort of change, like "ill never drive an electric car because it doesn't have an engine, so its not a real car".

     

    TL:DR: Boomers in this context are ignorant, out of touch, and close minded, not old.

     

  2. Well they have like 50 people, a bunch of which (editors) are constantly downloading and uploading stuff from their servers, they their 1 petabyte server (or however much it has these days) is constantly being backed up to google drive.

     

    A lot of the things they do are because they can, they have money, companies often send them free stuff, and and LMG gets to make videos about it.

     

    How expensive is upgrading your entire network when you have all these editors saving time (time=money), and you get to make videos about it? Probably pays for itself pretty quickly. LMG just makes so much revenue, they'd be kinda dumb to not have insane network speeds

     

    edit: another thing to remember is they now have several channels that upload videos regularly, and for all we know, a 10 minute video could have hours of Raw 8k/4k footage. Thats a LOT of data. Everything from getting the footage to multiple Editors' PCs, to uploading them to YouTube/Floatplane, requires an enormous amount of data, which means they either need a super fast connection to their server/the internet, or they will end up wasting a ton of time.

  3. On 4/10/2021 at 4:07 PM, tkdrob said:

    The dry contact sensor would be for anything Linus would do with an esp8266 or esp8285. The issue with any of these smart devices is when companies change their policies. Full DIY does not have those problems.

    yeah, i suspect next time the MyQ integration breaks Linus will be looking for alternatives. Hopefully he goes the full DIY route.

  4. Dear linus/jakkah/LMG,

     

    I'm glad you finally tried Home Assistant. In the end of the video I noticed linus mentioned that he wanted to keep using the original relay to avoid the 5 second closing delay. It is possible to control the Sonoff relay in Home Assistant, you could use a custom integration that lets you do so, or a much better solution that would also avoid their cloud entirely, is to flash the Sonoff with custom firmware that allows it to be controlled 100% locally, and gives you pure control over the device.

     

    Another thing is if you won't want your relays on the wall next to your buttons, you could also put them on the ceiling. Open the cover off your garage door opener, and if you see a button that opens/closes the garage door opener, that means you can run leads from there to the relay, which should allow you to control it again from the relay with no problems.

     

    Another reason why you might want to do this, is you know how you said Chamberlain is a bad company? Well, even though now you are controlling the garage door opener locally, Chamberlain will still screw you over. You see, there is no official MyQ API, this means that the way the Home Assistant integration for MyQ has to work, is by emulating the mobile app. So when you close your garage from home assistant, they think you are closing it from the app. This is bad, because this means that every time MyQ makes a change to their app or API, the integration breaks, no longer allowing you to control the opener. Normally the Home Assistant developers patch it after 1-2 days, but it's still really annoying. It breaks every few weeks randomly.

     

    Back to flashing the Sonoff. Personally the firmware I use is called ESPHome, which is open source firmware designed to run on any device using an ESP8266 microcontroller (like Sonoff wifi devices), and they connect directly to the Home Assistant local API. There is also an alternative firmware called Tasmota, but I'll explain how to use ESPHome, because it is simpler.

     

    First, you will need to buy some things if you don't already have them.

     

    USB to TTL/Serial converter: (this is the one I use)

    https://amazon.com/dp/B075N82CDL/

     

    Jumper wires: https://amazon.com/dp/B07GD2BWPY/

     

    Next, you will need to install the ESPHome Home Assistant Add-on from the Add-on Store.

     

    Open the ESPHome interface and add a node, fill out the wifi info, device name, etc. There are video tutorials that explain this.

     

    After you do that, click "edit". This is the configuration code for the firmware that you are about to flash to your Sonoff. You're going to need to add some code. The code that's there will work, but the device will just connect to your wifi network and not do anything. You need to tell the firmware that you want to control relays.

     

    From the video, the relays you use look like a Sonoff 4CH Pro. I have that too, and this is the code I use. Just copy and paste this after the line with your OTA password, the change the names of your relays to whatever you want, something like "Garage door 1".

     

    # paste into ESPhome node config after "OTA"
    binary_sensor:
      - platform: gpio
        on_press:
          then:
            - switch.toggle: button_1
        pin:
          number: GPIO0
          mode: INPUT_PULLUP
          inverted: True
        name: "Sonoff 4CH Button 1"
      - platform: gpio
        on_press:
          then:
            - switch.toggle: button_2
        pin:
          number: GPIO9
          mode: INPUT_PULLUP
          inverted: True
        name: "Sonoff 4CH Button 2"
      - platform: gpio
        on_press:
          then:
            - switch.toggle: button_3
        pin:
          number: GPIO10
          mode: INPUT_PULLUP
          inverted: True
        name: "Sonoff 4CH Button 3"
      - platform: gpio
        on_press:
          then:
            - switch.toggle: button_4
        pin:
          number: GPIO14
          mode: INPUT_PULLUP
          inverted: True
        name: "Sonoff 4CH Button 4"
      - platform: status
        name: "Sonoff 4CH Status"
    # Change the names of your 
    switch:
      - platform: gpio
        id: button_1
        name: "Sonoff 4CH Relay 1"
        pin: GPIO12
      - platform: gpio
        id: button_2
        name: "Sonoff 4CH Relay 2"
        pin: GPIO5
      - platform: gpio
        id: button_3
        name: "Sonoff 4CH Relay 3"
        pin: GPIO4
      - platform: gpio
        id: button_4
        name: "Sonoff 4CH Relay 4"
        pin: GPIO15
    output:
      - platform: esp8266_pwm
        id: blue_led
        pin: GPIO13
        inverted: True
    light:
      - platform: monochromatic
        id: status_led
        name: "Sonoff 4CH Blue LED"
        output: blue_led

    After you finish with the code, click "validate". If all goes well, click "compile". It should download a .bin file when complete (that's the firmware).

     

    We are almost done. Next, you need to install the ESPHome flasher tool on to your computer. Once that's done, open up your Sonoff. You should see pins labeled 3v3, GND, RX, and TX. You need to get your jumper wires and usb to TTL converter. Make sure the usb converter is set to 3.3v, because 5v will fry your Sonoff. You need to solder a wire from GPIO 0 to GND (ground), this will short out GPIO 0 and out the device in flashing mode. Then, connect the jumper wires from your USB to TTL converter to the correct pins on the Sonoff board. Plug the USB adapter into your computer, and open the ESPHome flasher tool. Choose the .bin file you downloaded and click flash. It will tell you when the Sonoff is done flashing. Once completed, disconnect the wires from the board and remove the wire you soldered from GPIO 0 to ground so it doesn't start in flashing mode next time. Then put it all back together.

     

    Now, power up the Sonoff. After a few seconds, it should connect to WiFi. 

     

    The last thing to do is to go in your home Assistant configuration page, and it should have discovered your Sonoff automatically. Type your password and you are good to go! Your relay is in home assistant. 

     

    And you can still connect contact sensors. 

     

    Ugh I'm out of time I'll add to this later

  5. On 8/25/2019 at 5:25 PM, Powarusuki said:

    Yeah I noticed @ 8:53 in the video that Monday.com is running on the trial period, haha they didn't even get a paid-for account they could use for the video. I came to this thread just to see if anybody else noticed it too. Pretty funny.

     

    Love you LTT and the video was okay until I realized that this platform isn't actually part of your guys' workflow. Makes the whole video very corny and setup in retrospect.

    I noticed too

  6. 19 hours ago, Kawaii Koneko said:

    Not sure if you are aware but the parental access code is only temporary and changes every several minutes. So if your parents are trying to use a code they wrote down when they setup her account initially, that code will no longer work.

     

    They will need to generate a new code to enter.

    https://support.google.com/families/answer/7307262?hl=en

    That's what I did, it shows that the code is valid for X minutes and it still doesn't work.

  7. So my younger sister lost her phone, so she started using a different phone but forgot her child Google account password so she changed it.

     

    We now found her phone and she wants to use it, but it shows that "account action required" thing, and I can't update phone to the new password. (Buggy LG k30...)

     

    We can't remove the account from her phone to re add it in settings without parents permission, so it asks for the parents access code. We type it, and it says it is incorrect.

     

    So with no access to her account from that phone and no way to add another account without the non working access code, our only option is to factory reset, which I want to try to avoid if possible.

     

    If anyone can help me thank you so much.

  8. On 1/9/2020 at 9:42 PM, _d0nut said:

    What graphics card? The Ryzen 5 2600 doesn't have integrated graphics, so for video output you need a graphics card.

    Oh.. I feel stupid. I guess I'll pick up a GT 710 or 1030 or something then lol

    Edit: ok so I got a 710 and the PC works great now! Probably the most graphics intensive thing we will every do on this PC is watching YouTube so it is fine

  9. Just built a PC with

    asus prime b450m-a/csm motherboard

    Ryzen 2600

    Ballistic 16gb ddr4 3200mhz ram 2x 8gb sticks

    EVGA 80+ white 500w PSU

    And I can't get it to post, the fans spin and the orange lights are on.

    I tried swapping the RAM with 1x viper 2400mhz 4gb ram, still same result.

    I checked all of the power supply cables in the motherboard, I re placed the CPU, I tried different HDMI cables and a dvi cable, I moved the ram into every possible configuration, nothing.

    I tried basically every troubleshooting trying I could think of. Even the speaker that came with the thermaltake case won't work.

     

    I hope someone here can help me, thanks.

  10. I can easily put together a list of desktop parts, but im terrible at finding laptops.

    Can someone recommend me a laptop that is:

    $400 USD or less

    smaller than 15 inches

    has a good cpu

    hopefully 8gb ram or more

    I dont care about how much storage because i can upgrade it

    usb c charging would be awesome but i dont expect that in a laptop under $500

    Not too heavy

    Upgradable RAM,

    Needs to be Brand New

    Would really like 1080p display

     

    I keep looking online and finding the almost perfect laptop, but there will be one thing I dont like.

    I liked this one, but the CPU really sucks and i think it is a couple years old judging by the cpu.

    To give you some information, I want to do things like editing Word documents and using the browser, but I want to be able to play some games and light video editing also. I will use windows primarily.

    I know I should probably spend more, but im 14 so this is already a big purchase for me lol

    Thanks in advance

    Edit: I actually perfer less storage and ram as i can upgrade it, sell the old drive and save some money.

  11. On 10/15/2019 at 4:30 PM, techaddict_12 said:

    I have actually realised that after uploading that video it doesn't look as bad as it did before, although my facecam doesn't look that great when that's on. If you were wondering, I can't use software x264 because my cpu can't handle it. Even on the very fast preset, my fps in a game as old as Fallout 4 drops dramatically, and it looks worse than NVENC on the very fast preset anyway.

    Maybe try changing settings in twitch, are there latency settings? usually the low latency options on these streaming services have to procces it less.

  12. On 11/16/2019 at 4:13 PM, Ryan_Vickers said:

    More proprietary garbage we don't need.  Who is still using text messages for primary communication?  And let me guess, this won't support Apple devices just like iMessage doesn't support Android?  Can people please just wake up and pick up Telegram or one of the dozen things like it already that has offered this and more for years already and is completely platform agnostic, even on desktop devices?

    Google designed it as a universal protocol, and Apple could easily add it but they obviously wont at least for a while. Literally anyone could support RCS. Just like SMS is universal.

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