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About Analog

  • Title
    X99 Overclocking Expert ;)
  • Birthday 1993-08-03

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Xbox Live

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Leiden; The Netherlands


  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 5960X @ 4.5GHZ
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer
  • RAM
    16GB Geil Evo Potenza 3333MHz RAM
  • GPU
    Zotac GTX 1080 Founders Edition
  • Case
    Jansbo UMX3 S
  • Storage
    Transcend 370S 512GB SSD
  • PSU
    Corsair SF600W (SFX PSU)
  • Display(s)
    LG 31MU97 True 4K Digital Cinema Monitor
  • Cooling
    Corsair H110 (Pull)
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Shine 3 Special Gold Edition
  • Mouse
    Logitech MX Master
  • Sound
    Bose SoundTrue
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro x64

Recent Profile Visitors

2,936 profile views
  1. You can take the CMOS battery out for 20sec. This will hard-reset the BIOS. The USB drive listing in the BIOS should not be present after that.
  2. No idea mate. The last thing left is a fresh Windows install.
  3. It depends on whether you will be playing the same games. Newer games will be more demanding and will utilize newer technology that you graphics card will not manage that well. Just remember how it was with tessellation in the ATI 5870 and GTX 480 era and how much better it was after that. That 1060 you have now is realistically good for a about 1, maybe 2 years, but that will be pushing. After that I would be looking for an upgrade. The good thing is that in a year you could by a used GTX 1080 for half of its original retail price.
  4. Reinstalling the graphics driver doesn't always make a difference as there are always files left over scattered throughout the system. I would check in the driver itself if there is a high-performance option there that got checked somehow. I haven't had an AMD card in quite some time, but there should be something of that sort. Another thing to check is if you accidentally pressed the dual-BIOS button of that card. It has a legacy and UEFI mode. Could be something with that.
  5. I personally would trade G-Sync for a higher resolution monitor. Another thing to consider is do you play competitive or not. High-refresh rates only really make a difference in competitive gaming.
  6. This issue is commonly associated with a bad graphics driver. Try reinstalling the driver of your graphics card with the latest one from them manufacturer's website.
  7. I recently got the UMX3 from Jonsbo and I as looking to upgrade my PSU to something newer and more compact, cause my CM 1000W is too bulky, takes up too much space and not to mention over 8 years old. My system is described in my signature so no need to cite it again. I am currently looking exclusively at SFX PSU and I have a hard time choosing between: - Corasair SFX 600W - Enemrax SFX 650W - Silverstone SFX-L 700W Platinum I really like the compactness of the first two, but I really don't know if they are going to be enough. What are your thoughts on this?
  8. There is nothing really under 100 bucks that looks and is as premium as an InWin chassis, especially in ATX format. The Jonsbo UMX3 , which I currently have is a pretty cool thing, but it is mATX and still quite over the price you have specified. My suggestion is to start buy something used on the cheap and when you save up enough cash, then buy that InWin case you relay want. Jonsbo UMX3 -> https://picx.xfastest.com/amola//1506/Computex_D1/Jonsbo/thumb_IMG_1210.JPG
  9. They indicate that number for worst case scenarios. Imagine running an overclocked 6950X and an overclocked 1080... a 500W is a minimum... My rig consumes about 550W from the wall.
  10. I am interested in knowing how can LTSB, be "unsafe?" Have you used it? As someone, who might or might not be using it, I can say it is just as the normal Windows, just stripped out. There is a number of ways to sideload store and other apps and customize it to your liking. Also it gets all of the security updates, the same way normal Windows 10 does... So there is no reason not to stay connected to the internet if you are on LTSB. The only thing LTSB doesn't get is feature updates like RS (Red Stone, etc). If you want those you will need to obtain a new version of LTSB that has them and upgrade manually. Windows is not going to prompt you that an update is due.
  11. There is simple solution. Go to your local auto parts store and buy some cheap LED strips that are 12V. Where I live you can get them for about 6 bucks for 50cm. These LED strips have two wires coming from them - one positive, one ground, usually red and black, respectively. Then all you need is power. You can either buy a cheap molex to molex extension and cut off the connector from said extension and connect the wires to the corresponding color or sacrifice an old case fan and use its connector to power your LED strip, by plugging the fan connector to your board.
  12. By putting a new CPU in it. When you get a replacement you put it an see if the PC will boot. If it doesn't then you need to get a replacement board too.
  13. Usually non-reference cards are more silent, but they do kick all of the heat inside your case. If you have a small enclosure with minimal airflow this can make all of the other components run at higher temps too.
  14. I would say some kind of electrical inductor.
  15. I read the posts but I am a bit confused. How is it that you only have a 4-pin PCIe cable? Can you attach a picture of the connectors that you intend to use on your PSU? PS: Do not try to run the card with anything other than a PCIe connector cable, because although something else might fit, the voltages running through the cables are different and can fry your card.