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About Brinith

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  1. Would not be surprised if they just hoped that the customer would back down (being an average consumer who is not that tech savvy and trusts Apple geniuses) and not check for themselves or bring it elsewhere. Like most pp if presented this situation will just trust that Apple is telling the truth and doubt a third party would be able to fix it. Then they go to buy another macbook, blaming themselves for the mistake when it really wasn't.
  2. Ah i see I have them at 18% brightness for the benq and like 30% on the lg one. And I never work in a dark room. Idk, even in daylight I don't like my monitors on when im doing other work at my desk. Its just habit now to turn them off since i never experienced this signal loss on shutdown before on monitors before. I remedied the issue by having all my desktop icons in Fences so it restores properly afterwards soooo i may just continue doing it. nice that my second monitor (which i normally have off half the time) doesn't do it.
  3. when i want to step away from my office or not have bright panels in my face when im doing something at my desk that doesn't need the computer? Do people normally not shut off their monitors? Just curious
  4. Hello, so I just bought a new monitor (Benq GW2765) to replace an old TN monitor in my dual monitor set up. Currently I have the Benq one hooked up through displayport and another LG monitor hooked up through hdmi (both running to a 1060). The issue I am having is that when I turn off the Benq monitor, it is no longer detected by the computer and then moves everything from the screen over to the second monitor. When turn off the LG one, it still get detected which is what I want. Previously with my setup (used HDMI and DVI), this did not happen as even when turning off the monitors, they were still detected by the computer and Windows wouldnt try to move shit around. This leads me to believe it is either an issue with the monitor itself (maybe its intentional, hopefully not) or something to do with Display port. Unfortunately I cannot try both to hdmi as my 1060 only has one hdmi out
  5. more pics and hardware stuff on the repo
  6. Just wanted to share a project that I've worked on quite a while ago. Finally decided to upload my files and hopefully inspire others to create cases of their own! Aptly named, NeonSFF is a 3D Printed small form factor case. Designed in Solidworks and printed (after many failed prints and revisions) in PLA. You can check out the files yourself here where I have uploaded the CAD files in various formats (including STEP). Housed inside it is a modest system with a Core i5 6600k, MSI B250 ITX (the cheapest ITX board I found at the time, got the 6600k back when I actually had a motherboard that could overclock), Cryorig C7 with a generic 140mm fan, GTX 1060 6GB, 16GB RAM, and some other miscellaneous stuff. A common question I get is if the PLA will start warping over time? I've had multiple revisions of this case printed in PLA, none have ever warped from heat, including the current version which has been operating for about a year now. So most likely no, but of course you can print it yourself in a different filament. Feel free to use my designs (noncommercially). I would love to see what other people can do with it!
  7. Damn, people are actually scared of wooden cases? As long as all your component are properly grounded (which they should be given a proper power supply), there is very little risk to the components starting a fire in the first place. If you really want to be cautious, then run a wire from the power supply housing to each of the components (like for the motherboard, attach the wire to one of the mounting posts). If you know how to work with metal already and have cheap access to tools and materials, then sure go for it. But wood (or acrylic) would be so much easier and cheaper than trying to do a metal scratch build. Plus, if you don't make the metal case properly (i.e no deburring, sharp edge, improperly affixed pieces, etc.) and a burr by chance falls onto a component, it could cause a short and who knows maybe you would actually start a fire (tho if anything, itll probably just be magical black smoke that makes electronics run).
  8. that should not be an issue if every other manufacturer has figured it out. But its Apple - gotta think different.
  9. I use VeraCrypt......for a single text file with my entire list of accounts and passwords lol.
  10. The cost is pretty high, but its not that bad. Sure its cardboard, but it is absolutely ingenious how it interacts with the Switch. Like if you actually watch the video, its more than just cardboard crafts. For instance the piano and how it uses the IR camera to detect which key was pressed. Its not for everyone, but honestly this is not a bad product. I am more interested in this to develop other toy-cons of my own design. Plus using a 3D printer, I don't see why you couldn't make your own relatively easily with some CAD skills.
  11. Its a pain not going to lie, but not really hard and not too time consuming (as far as 3D printing goes in general). OP, its pretty expensive to 3D print a case if you don't have your own printer or access for free (like at a school). I would recommend using wood or acrylic just by cost. But 3D printing is definitely viable. Teaser Pics of the case I am working on rn (prototype with only 1 perimeter and only 15% infill with PLA. Side panel will be flush once I get around to screwing it down, only held by tape rn lol)
  12. just make sure to get a cutting wheel made for metal. even then, dremels are pretty weak in general.
  13. It depends. With a larger scale, slow print speed, and small layer height (like < 0.1mm), you can get some pretty decent figurines out of them. And a well tuned printer ofc.
  14. CR-10 all the way. Not much assembly, can print more than just PLA. If build volume is important, then CR-10 is better than the Prusa i3 MK3. Honestly the hype for Prusa is pretty insane. Still using an 8 bit controller. For its design, linear rails or wheels and t-slot extrusion are better solutions. Its a good printer, but not that great for the price. I would consider CR-10 (and maybe a couple around $300) to be the threshold for budget options. I have a Tronxy X1 that I got for $150 and with all the upgrades (heated 220 x 220 mm bed, E3D hotend, etc. etc.), I've spent around $250 on the whole thing. It prints way beyond what its price would suggest, but it took a lot of work to get it there. Kit printers in general are for hobbyists and tinkerers rather than people who just are looking for a tool.
  15. Yeah it probably will. Just use the slicer of your choice. Prusa and other cheap chinese kits are nice because they are cheap. HOWEVER, I definitely recommend having some electrical knowledge, soldering, etc. Many of these kits have been known to have boards that just melt and die from magical black smoke. Fix: use higher gauge wire and a higher quality power supply. Not to mention, the parts are inaccurate sometimes and you gotta fix it or mod it. The great thing about the Prusa is that the coummunity is excellent with endless part upgrades ready to print and improve build quality. These cheap kits ARE an extreme time commitment to get it to print properly. Unless you are a tinkerer who enjoys that, don't buy it. I have a Tronxy X1 ($135 USD shipped from Gearbest) on the way and I am expecting a plethora of problems to happen and need to be resolved b4 i get even consider a decent print) https://folgertech.com/products/folger-tech-reprap-2020-prusa-i3-full-aluminum-3d-printer-kit The link above is to a Prusa clone with nice aluminum extrusions and better QC, and a company based in the US for better support. So if you do want to stick to the Prusa design and dont want as much hassle as other chinese Prusa kits give you, I would recommend this.