Tabs

No; it's a core part of the kernel designed to be simple and therefore will "always work". The added niceness on windows 8+ is due to their embracing of UEFI which adds niceness without added complexity from the kernel side of things. This is similar to how Apple has been able to display cute/informative crash menus for about 10 years (they use the original EFI spec for their systems). Even if you modified the binaries, it would result in programs failing and possibly Windows itself even failing to load due the binary failing an integrity check.

Cat 5e can reach 1gbit over 50 meters; cat6 can reach 1gbit over 150m+. Cat5 is limited to 100mbit over any length. If you're using networking equipment capable of 1gbps and your connection is running at 1gbps, then it's at least a cat 5e cable. If you're running hardware that should utilise 2.5gb, 5gb, or 10gbe, then you'll have a lot of issues with anything less than a cat6 certified cable. For your internet speed question: If your internet speed is more than 100mbps, then the difference between cat5 and cat5e+ will be important.

I have a super basic TP-Link switch too, it's been 100% reliable except for once where it locked up during a very very short power outage, which is completely fair in my opinion. Let me know when you get that info, I may not be monitoring this thread but feel free to PM me and I'll get a notification. Hopefully it wont take much work to get this sorted, redoing the wiring so everything except internet traffic is routed through the switch could be a good idea. If you get the chance, make sure that any kind of ingress/egress prioritisation, traffic shaping or QoS settings on your router are disabled; same with jumbo frames. Many ISP provided routers don't handle that kind of stuff well.

Okay, my first suggestion then is to ensure that your links are all running at gigabit speeds. This is unlikely to be the issue, but it's possibly the easiest thing to check first before messing with drivers and settings. On your desktop, go to network and sharing centre, select "change adapter settings" at the left hand side, and then double click on your I219-V adapter. Make sure that the connection speed is listed as 1.0 Gbps. Once you've confirmed that it's running at gigabit speeds, swap the network cables around between your TV and your PC and check again that the link speed is still 1 Gbps. Could you let me know what model of router you're using? The topographic you posted implies that your TV is connected directly to the router, the router to the switch, and your PC to the switch. If this is the case, is is possible to connect both the TV and PC to the switch to rule out some kind of transit issue involving the router? QoS could be at play.

Okay, can you confirm exactly which network adapter your board uses? I have the gigabyte Z170-XP SLI board and I know it has Intel I219-V, the Gigabyte support site for your board doesn't list the exact model of network adapter on yours other than stating that it's Intel. If this is the case, it may be a simple driver issue, or it could be some of the advanced configuration settings need to be modified. Either way, it should be easily remedied. Also: How long does it take for this problem to start once you begin streaming? Is it immediate or does it take a while? If it's immediate, I might get you to run a few diagnostic checks when it's erroring out to see if we can narrow down the problem.

Does this affect all devices on your network or just your own pc? Are Plex or your video files hosted on your PC or another device on your network?

Does the panel run at anything higher than 30fps when running at 4k native? The panel may simply only support 30fps on resolutions above 1080p. 30fps is considered normal for 4k TVs since televised content is rarely more than that.

It's worth remembering that 1080p on a 4k panel actually IS pixel perfect; one rendered pixel perfectly scales to 4 physical pixels on the 4k panel with no blending.

Most TV's have scaling options set to overscan images to remove black borders around broadcast content. Check your tv settings; if you can change the input type to "pc" or "digital" it should automatically scale correctly. Alternatively it may have an actual image display option. It varies by TV, but this is what I've experienced with various Sony, Samsung and LG models.

It sounds like you may have a misbehaving explorer shell extension. Two utilities you can use to manage them are Autoruns from Microsoft Sysinternals, or ShellExView from Nirsoft. Autoruns does a lot more than just manage shell extensions, so be careful if you use it.

Do you have the nas credentials stored in Credentials Manager using the same URI scheme as the mapping? For example, if you map it using the form \\NAS\*share*, make sure there's a credential stored for the URI \\NAS\. If you map it using IP address, make sure there's a credential stored for the URI \\ip address\. That should work for your account across login/logoff and reboots. It may require being set manually for each account on your machine though.

There aren't any moving parts in a regular Sata SSD; it's just a different size/shape and is hooked up using standard SATA cables instead of being directly plugged into the motherboard like a memory module or GPU would. Are you thinking about "solid state hard drives", which are just hard disks with a small solid state cache? Those I would stay away from, since they don't offer any real performance improvement compared to a standard hard drive, but it has more potential modes of failure. If the cache fails in one of those, but the disk part itself is fine, you still risk losing all your data.

As others have said, the longevity in terms of bytes written should be almost identical between the two, if they have the same type/capacity of NAND onboard. It's worth remembering however that sata interface drives are limited by the interface at about 600MB/s maximum, but m.2 can reach (and sometimes exceed) 3GB/s. Even though they may be able to handle the same amount of total writes, you may find that the m.2 drive has a lower lifespan simply because you can write a lot more data to it faster. For the same amount of writes over the same timeframe, you should notice no difference between the two. Check the manufacturers write endurance to be able to compare different drives.

If your power plan is set to "High Performance", your cpu will be at its full turbo frequency all the time. Set the power plan to balanced (or manually change the power/frequency settings for the High Performance plan) and you'll be able to get your cpu back to idling properly. If you're on Balanced/low power plan and it still isn't doing it, check you have speed boost and/or speed shift enabled in your motherboard bios.