Arttu89

So he's basically using it for the "cool factor" of having 2 screens on his desk. ? The setup VEXICUS proposed would be a good starting point, only thing I'd think about twice would be the MB, if he ever decides to put a higher end Ryzen chip in it I'm not sure how much the VRM on that ASRock board can take (but maybe I'm overthinking it and trying to plan ahead too much), it's not a huge investment, he can definitely do some gaming on it and if he ever actually decides on going into some triple A titles there's plenty of upgrade options that won't break the bank. Oh my, I just checked that Viewsonic monitor you keep talking about and felt like I went back in time to the mid 2000s. For some reason I kept assuming it's not too old. The spec says it's 28" but 27.5" viewable. Here's some options, I tried to find some not too expensive Freesync monitors. AOC 27V2H - 27" 1920x1080 75Hz TN Dell SE2717H - 27" 1920x1080 75Hz IPS-type LG 29UM69G-B - 29" 2560x1080 75Hz IPS - looks like a decent budget ultrawide option if you want to go there, yes I know it's not the 34" you wanted to put on his desk, but it's still ultrawide ? There's 144Hz options for some $30-40 more or you could try looking at some cheap 2560x1440, but I don't really think he needs either of those options, I'm not sure he'll even use the 75Hz Freesync, but I tried to take into account you want to get him to do a little gaming. I think the main problem here is finding a balance between what he needs and your hearts desire to build something slightly higher end. ?

You could try disconnecting the power supply from the internal components (just pull the plugs out), flip the switch on the PSU and check if the fan on it starts spinning and you'll know if it's the PSU starting on it's own or if it's getting started by the MB. Could also try a 2nd PSU, if the same thing happens that would point to the MB.

For peace of mind I would run a decent quality extension from the closest properly grounded outlet and run your computer of that extension, it's definitely a lot safer than "cheater" plugs. It's also good practice to try to keep in mind how many other sockets might be on the same ring as the socket you connected to and what other equipment is connected to the ring, so you don't overload the breaker it's all on. Even if you don't end up getting an HVAC system put in, it's still a good idea to get an electrician to go through the electrical installation in the house and give you a quote for getting it all up to modern standards. To answer your question, it's still possible to run electrical equipment off of sockets like that if necessary, but it's always more risky and it's healthy to take some precautions when you do, for example: don't connect devices that have a damaged power cord, don't connect to sockets like that if you're in an area where your device might get wet while you're using it etc. - unearthed sockets used to be a normal thing a long time ago and somehow our parents/grandparents didn't mass electrocute themselves, so as long as you're smart about it, you'll be safe(r), that said if you're unsure or don't feel comfortable about how to safely use a socket like that, just don't.

That setup would be a really nice all-round build, whether it lasts 10 years or not, really depends on how his interests evolve over that time. If he keeps using it as the old one, then he'll probably never fully utilise the power and get even more than 10 years from it, but if you get him into gaming it might need an upgrade or two as the years go by, depending on what he plays. How does he use those 2 monitors right now? As much as I love the idea of an ultrawide and wouldn't think twice about buying one for myself if I only had the desk space, it's also not always the perfect replacement of a double monitor setup in some use cases.

The earth terminal on a UK socket is always connected to ground, it's a safety feature. Earth wire in the power supply is also always connected to the earth of the cable you're using, so basically you can just plug the power supply in without turning anything on and the case of the PSU will be grounded.

The easiest way would be buying a watt meter that plugs into the socket and then plug your computer into it.

Unfortunetly it's not that easy, those laptop wifi cards use a mini PCIe slot, so you would need to buy an adaptor card that would slot into one of your standard PCIe slots on the motherboard and convert it to the mini PCIe standard and even if you go that route you'd have to pull the wi-fi antennas out of your laptop, because it won't work otherwise. Typical desktop PC motherboards generally don't have mini PCIe slots, unless they come with on-board wi-fi, but in those cases it's already populated with a wi-fi card. Given how cheaply you can get even the most basic usb wi-fi adaptors trying to get that card into your PC just isn't worth all the hassle. Edit: Oh and some newer motherboards that come with on-board wi-fi don't even use the old mini PCIe format for the wi-fi cards, but instead use the m.2 format, so that renders that old wi-fi card even more useless nowadays, since you wouldn't even be able to use it as a replacement for a faulty wi-fi card on a modern mobo.

If it's just a boot drive then it's likely to be quite alright like that. I'd leave it and see how it works, if you ever notice your system getting unresponsive or freezing for short periods of time then try to get it some extra cooling.

What is that SSD used for? If on a daily basis you don't do anything that does a lot of read/write to it then you won't really see the kind of temperatures you get on a stress test. Otherwise you could just buy a thermal pad and sink the heat into the case if the spacing is small enough.

I think you mean logging into linustech with facebook, doing the opposite isn't possible. There are no substantial benefits of doing that, it just might make logging in easier for some people who are always logged into their facebook account, you got one less password to remember and it makes the sign up proccess a bit faster (if you link your forum account to your facebook account on sign up), because there's less info to fill out when registering, but since you already have an account on the forum linking it with facebook or any of the other services makes very little diffrence. Personally I didn't opt into that, since I feel like facebook already knows too much about me. Oh and in case you forget your password for the forum account it allows you to log in through facebook or whichever other service you have linked to the forum account.

He physically won't be able to put the card into that, unless he makes a cut-out in the socket at the end of the riser, so the bandwith isn't even the only limitation. But back to the point, don't cheap out on a good riser cable for a modern GPU just because you think it's just a bit of wire and some plastic. I know a proper shielded x16 riser seems expensive, but that's because it's properly engineered and has the required shielding around the ribbon cable to allow your GPU to work without issue. A cheap x16 riser might work, but with modern GPUs it's a gamble on how stable your experience is gonna be.

That PSU looks ok, with SSD and RAM try checking some online stores outside of Poland, in my experience the prices on the high end stuff were always a bit higher than in other countries around. Amazon.de deliveres to Poland without any problems, there's also a pretty goold retailer in the Czech Republic called Alza. I found the HyperX memory you chose on Komputronik for 399.00zł per piece, so 798,00zł for the whole 32GB you're planing to buy, not sure if that's where you're buying, but they also got these: https://www.komputronik.pl/product/651109/g-skill-trident-z-neo-32gb-2x16gb-3600mhz-ddr4-cl16-1-35v-xmp-2-0-dimm-.html In terms of how much you're planing to spend for the whole upgrade the 140zł extra for that kit won't be a huge dent in the budget and if you don't like the RGB you can turn it off.

Did you try monitoring how quickly the temperature goes up while rendering? It could just aswell be that 90C is just the last thing you get to see, but the temp spikes up at such a rate that the system doesn't keep up with displaying that to you, before the protection kicks in.

Come on, it's a MacBook, all the useful stuff on a MacBook comes on a dongle. ? Just imagine that beautiful space grey, paper thin enclosure with a stylish USB-C/Thunderbolt cable wrapped with that smooth soft rubber, housing that RTX Titan you paid $5000 extra for and burning a hole in your desk while you're in a Rocket League match.

In many cases a modern power supply should be able to protect your mobo from dying due to power fluctuations in the grid, obviously s*it happens and things die even with the best components. You've been quite thorough with your testing, the only thing I can think of that you didn't mention and could still do, would be resetting the BIOS in case something started to go wrong with the overclocks you had done, but aside of that replacing the base platform is probably the smartest option.

That music is very non-apple and you really got your hopes high up with those components. ?

You can use pretty much anything metal to short the jumper and most definitely turn the computer off and also switch off the power supply.

You could try assigning a static IP to the laptop on the router, that way you can leave the laptop on DHCP wherever you go.

You can also check if you didn't accidentally pull out the front panel connectors for the power switch when you dived in to make the swap, clearing the BIOS might help too.

It would help if you told us what will you be using that computer for. Right now, it looks like you're building a gaming rig for your office with university money.

That and economy of scale. You get an S-Pen with every Note 9 and Samsung sells quite a few of those, so the R&D cost of creating that stylus is spread across tens if not hundreds of thousands of S-Pens. I doubt the stylus for your laptop gets anywhere near the same amount of sales, so the R&D per unit is a lot higher as well.

If it helps, you can quite easily find that game online and download it.

Getting that to work on a laptop that old might be more of a hassle than it's worth, a good custom BIOS would probably make it much easier, but I doubt you'll find one, even nowadays custom BIOS for laptops is a niche for enthusiasts. Is there any particular reason you're trying to get it working with that mSATA drive? If not, you might be better off buying a IDE based drive.

I would go into the wi-fi settings on Windows and double check that it did actually reset the settings and switched it to DHCP for that wifi network. It sounds like you could have either: a static IP set up on the laptop and the router is just not having it or you have a static IP set on the laptop and a diffrent static IP assigned for the laptop on the router at the same time which causes a conflict.

Those look quite normal for that CPU. If your AIO is 240/360, I'd expect them to be maybe a few degrees lower, but it's nothing to worry about. You mention you refilled the AIO, how much worse were the temps before? When you did the refilling, did you take the cold plate off the cooler just to check the micro-fins are clean?