beau

One of my first jobs was working at a University looking after the reprographic equipment. Pay for a junior was pretty crap but spiked to $25/hr after 18 y/o. Plus there was 22% superannuation (which is what you call 401k I think?). It was casual work though but not bad for starters. A+ certification is pretty much the very basic qualification you can get. These days high schoolers are earning like Certificate III and IV in some fields, and I wouldn't value an A+ any more than that. CCNA can be considered more valuable. If that's too much then you can get the CCENT. Heck even just saying that you have studied the material but can't afford to take the exam can be just as good as having the qualification itself. Alternatively you can try and find an employer who is willing to hire on a trainee or apprentice. You get some money, a job, and an education.

what Standard did you use to terminate the ends? T568A or T568B? You can't just make up whatever pinout you want because each twisted pair has a different twist ratio, and if you're using a pinout different to the two standards may mean your signal is interfering with itself even if it passes the continuity test.

Look into QoS - Quality of Service - settings on your router. http://www.howtogeek.com/75660/the-beginners-guide-to-qos-on-your-router/ "if you set your QoS’s declared bandwidth lower than your allotted ISP bandwidth, you’re creating an artificial bottleneck where you can control it: at your router." Otherwise there are bandwidth limiters you can buy which might do what you want but I don't know much about them.

If you are in the US, federal laws prevent you using channels 12 and 13. Channel 14 is reserved for Japan.

So those 'powerline adapters' can be pretty random sometimes. Sometimes they break in simple storms where the power grid fluctuated enough to damage the powerline adapters themselves (brown-outs). Alternatively, there may be some kind of interference. Maybe someone plugged in something on the same power circuit and it's creating some kind of electro-magenetic interference. It happens when you combine power and data on the same lines as they don't work too well together. Have you tried plugging straight into your router instead, with a separate chord? You can't ignore layer 1 issues here.

In my country police that do traffic duty get $500 a day for a few hours work. This is a bonus on top of their regular wage because of the hazards and bullshit that's involved I guess. It's a shit role though, waving your arm all the time but still good money My source is a retried cop so maybe things have changed.

Most likely a connection issue. Check your Monitor cable. How is it connected: DVI, VGA, HDMI, DisplayPort? If it's the first two check the pins on the cable. Are they bent? - replace the cable. Otherwise, unplug it and reconnect it correctly. Tighten the thumb screws if its DVI or VGA. Check your cable into your graphics card. Is it in securely? Was it loose? Unplug it and reconnect it correctly. Check for bent pins. Open your case. Is your graphics card loose? Was it secured to your case with the PCI bracket screw? Was it secure, or loose? If you gently push down on the card into the motherboard does it click in position better? If not, pull it out completely and reconnect it correctly. Half the time you'll find these issues can be resolved logically if you trace the problem to the cause.

plug a USB drive in your router. Probably not completely 'Cloud' based but it will work if you are all on the home network. Plenty of guides around you can follow to do this, as long as you have a wifi router with a USB port.

I may be the only one, but I think Sony need to get rid of their IP68 dust and water protection. They can spout on about how much of a feature it is but to me, it's an inconvenience. I've personally gone through 3 of the flaps. They just do not stick in after a while, and when you go to pull the phone out of your pocket they snag on your jeans and tear off. Maybe it's the heat that warps the rubber seal, but it's just such a disappointment. I'm glad though that it looks like they are moving away from the glass back panels. I have also gone through 3 of these back panels as they don't seem to be as sturdy as the front screen, and crack even when using a case. Regardless, I'm not buying Sony phones again. Durability is important, even if your corporate strategy is to release a new phone every 6 months.

PCIe M.2 are starting to outperform even the most high end commercial Discreet PCIe SSD's like the Intel 750 series ($1500+ card), ASUS RAIDR ($500), and OCZ Velo drive ($1600+ card). Just check out the specs of Samsung 950 Pro. Sub $500 and you get this: Sequential Read Up to 2,500 MB/sec Sequential Write Up to 1,500 MB/sec Random Read (4 KB, QD 32, Thread 4) Up to 300,000 IOPS Random Write (4 KB, QD 32, Thread 4) Up to 110,000 IOPS Random Read (4 KB, QD 1, Thread 1) Up to 12,000 IOPS Random Write (4 KB, QD 1, Thread 1) Up to 43,000 IOPS

I bet this is the problem OP has. Not his nic.

Only being pedantic here but there are three types of M.2 SATA III, PCIe 3.0, and USB 3.0/2.0 But its pretty hard to find ones made for USB

The easiest and cheapest way to do this is to plug a mass USB storage device into the USB port on your router. Pretty much instant network storage to all attached devices (inc wifi if your router supports it). Plenty of guides floating around on how to do this. Unless of course you are craving the learning curve and experience of building your own NAS, which can be pretty cool.

WebDAV shares are new in FreeNAS 9.3 stable. It will let you do this if you are on the same network. You can link a WebDAV share and a CIFS share to the same dataset so you can easily drag and drop files between mobile and desktop devices. It's a different story if you want to do this from another network.

I am responding directly to your comment here... This is just wrong. It is not a requirement or pre-requisite for ZFS, and it will run quite alright without ECC if using best practices (backups). TLDR: ECC is good, but it is a WANT not a NEED