hihihi8

Hi all, I've been suffering from constant noises on my speakers ever since getting them. It's a constant bzzz ---- bzzz ---- bzzz ---- bzzz --- bzzz --- bzzz --- bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz --- bzzz...... that repeats over and over even when my PC is off. Other times, it's a steady hum that changes depending on where I place my mouse (e.g. moving it over links and animated elements will increase the volume of the noise). Doing 3D stuff/GPU utilization also causes a scratching noise (e.g. orbit/panning in SolidWorks) Here's the setup: Source 1: PC via optical spdif/toslink to a Schit Modi 3+ DAC (grounded on same power strip as PC). the DAC outputs RCA. Source 2: AT Turntable (ungrounded) that outputs RCA. Mixer: the sources come together in a mixer (grounded on same power strip as PC), that outputs RCA to the speakers. Speakers: Mackie MR624's, powered speakers grounded on same power strip as PC. I believe the noise is coming from the PC side due to the symptoms as well as the fact that unplugging the turntable does nothing to solve it. If I turn up the PC's volume on the mixer, the buzzing also gets louder. But as far as I can tell, everything that has a ground connection is sharing one. So what gives? Thanks in advance

Just an unstable overclock. It doesn't need to overheat to crash.

ugh i was thinking about that when i rebuilt the GPUs; it's quite easy tbh, but i guess i was just too lazy to make yet another trip to homedepot for red paint. I also dont know how i would feel about actually having red logos. On one hand, it would match the overall color scheme better, but on the other hand it would become less variegated and "lively," sorta turning into one big red blob. Right now i see the green as a little focal point of interest, popping out amidst a red backdrop.

Those are some massive reservoirs. I have one that size in my current rig and it just drinks down coolant like a german during Oktoberfest. In comparison my most recent build for my mom took less than a litre which really surprised me lol. Also interested in how you're planning on making the desk thinner, as I've had a few plans for a desk build myself where I basically switch over to blade-server components (EK server blocks and server PSUs plus a distro panel as my res). GLHF! As a side note, im pretty jelly of that band saw you got there. I've been looking for a similar or larger band saw (at least 16" throat) myself for a while locally, but haven't been able to find anything that really caught my eye. There was an awesome 1952 Walker Turner MCB1160 that I was really disappointed to learn had already sold

My mom loved the RGB puke option on the LED strip, and I had to forcibly forbid her from ever using that by confiscating the remote... sighs lol

The parts in this build come from what used to be my main rig, named Pinky. Then I upgraded and retired it. Recently I've thrown it back together in a new case, with a new loop. I have a ton of watercooling parts that have just been lying around unused, so I figured I might as well put it all to use The case is an InWin S-Frame that I recently acquired after a long search, just for collection purposes. #190/500 Free Cell is what she usually plays. The GPUs are custom modded to be watercooled as well, I wrote up a guide a couple years ago which can be found here. They are plumbed as parallel in this case (used to be set up series, redid the mod during the pre-build maintenance overhaul). I was originally saving my brand new CSQ circle-square EK RAM waterblocks for my SR-X, but since that build has seen no progress in years, I went ahead and used them here. It's a shame they no longer make them in the classic circle-square pattern, since I prefer it to the flat acetal finish they have these days. Excuse the imperfect bend there, as it was a quick build and I ran out of tubing to redo it lol. Now all that's left is for her to play solitaire on this thing until it no longer meets the minimum system requirements of the game! Parts List: - MSi X99A Godlike Gaming - i7-5960x - Nvidia 980ti *2 in SLI - Nvidia 2-Way SLI Bridge Long - G.Skill 64GB DDR4 2400 (forgot the model) - Sabrent Rocket 3 1TB - Samsung Q 870 Evo 4TB - InWin S-Frame #190/500 - Corsair HX850i - Sleeved Cables are extensions only, as I was too cheap/lazy to buy/make some. - Uphere ultra cheap red 120mm fans - Airgoo RGB LED strip set to red wave - Hellermann Tyton cable tie mounts (these are the jam, they never come off/apart) Watercooling: - Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS RAD - Laing D5 Pump - Barrow Pump Top - 100mm Monsoon MMRS Res with black rods, red screws, and white CCFLs - EK-VGA Supremacy CSQ *2 for 2*980ti - EK Supremacy CSQ CPU block - EK Monarch X4 CSQ Ram block *2 - Iceman DIMM cooling modules *8 - Custom sheet metal pump and reservoir mounting brackets so that I didn't have to drill any holes in my beloved case. - 12mm OD 10mm ID PETG tubing - A mix of Bitspower, Primochill, Barrow, and Monsoon fittings - EK Cryofuel Blood Red Premix 750mL

Nope, just 24 pins start to finish. It seems if I unplug the PSU, flick the switch a few times, then plug it back in, theres a much better chance of it actually starting up, almost as if some capacitor needs to drain and recharge properly.

Ive been making modular cables for a while now so i just took 2 atx power supply pins, crimped them at either ends of a 18awg lead, and plugged them in. Much more secure than the paperclip so thats not the issue.

I was trying to test some wires I made in addition to filling a loop with my old Corsair RM1000 (was just fine last winter when it was still in my system), and the thing doesnt seem to want to start on a consistent basis. It works fine when in a system, but using the old jumper method, it only starts seldomly. A. There is a load on it, ive got a couple of fans running on it B. It does the same thing regardless of whether i jump the pins at the end of the 24pin or at the modular interface directly on the psu C. The jumper is making proper electrical contact D. The wires I made are fine and make proper electrical connection (power cable for CCFL inverter, works just fine when the thing does manage to turn on, plus the issues occur regardless of whether or not i plug my diy stuff in) 1. Sometimes it will start for less than a second (system fans actually spin up), then immediately turn off 2. If it does number 1, it will go into a state where if i turn it on, i can hear the relay clicking, but the system fans dont spin and nothing gets power 3. Sometimes it just does nothing, no click, no response, etc. 4. Sometimes it will start up just fine, and stay on for as long as i want it to. In this state, i can turn it off, come back a while later, and it will still start just fine. But once i unplug the main AC wall cable, its anyone's guess how it will behave the next time i plug it in. 5. I seem to recall noticing this issue a while back with this very PSU, but didnt bother posting on it, but now i'm just curious. Im stumped, any clues?

wireless internet. if you have decent wifi and dont want to connect an cable for internet, i'd say get wifi. If you dont have wifi on your mobo you can always get a wifi expansion card later on.

ugh... at least now my SR-X has an older brother to play with.

my first notable upgrade was moving from a 750ti to a 980ti, then a second for SLI

While i would resort to acetone too, it would likely damage the plastic substrate in the process. Maybe try something like goof off (also acetone-based i believe, but less harsh), or dilute the acetone to make it gentler.

is probably ded, rip

After months of hunting, I have found and acquired one.