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hihihi8

Member
  • Content Count

    177
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About hihihi8

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 2000-05-01

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chicago, Illinois
  • Biography
    IB student from Beijing BISS International School

System

  • CPU
    i7 5930k
  • Motherboard
    MSi X99A Godlike Gaming
  • RAM
    64 GB G.Skill Jipjaws 4
  • GPU
    980Ti x2
  • Case
    TT Core P5
  • Storage
    Samsung 950 Pro 512GB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM1000
  • Display(s)
    LG 34" Ultra Wide 3440*1440
  • Cooling
    Custom Hardline Loop
  • Keyboard
    Cherry MX Blues, OEM
  • Mouse
    Razer Mamba Chroma Wireless
  • Sound
    Bose Companion 20
  • Operating System
    Win 10 Pro 64bit

Recent Profile Visitors

795 profile views
  1. disconnect the last bit of tubing where the last piece of the loop feeds back into the reservoir, and have it dump the coolant in a bucket instead. Then continuously fill your loop with distilled water while the pump is running to flush it clean. A bit of soap is ok in your loop, won't hurt anything, just don't have it bubbling and foaming all over the place.
  2. Hi. So after years of using flagship devices, I realized I had absolutely no need for a top of the line smartphone, and was just wasting money on it. I recently obliterated my huawei p10 plus as well as my backup p9, and am In the market for a replacement phone, so was looking for some advice on what to get. All I do with my phone is listen to music, watch a couple of youtube videos, google stuff, and maybe take 1 phone call a week, so requirements really aren't high. I've got a few criteria that I want to meet tho: 1. MUST have a 3.5mm headphone jack 2. Decent battery life to keep going throughout the day 3. Must have either 128gb of internal storage, or dual sim with the option of inserting an SD card in one of those slots. Things couldn't care less about: 1. Camera quality 2. gaming performance 3. Screen size 4. notches, with or without 5. Prestige/Snob factor of owning X Things I dont want: 1. Apple. 2. Apple. Thanks
  3. Hmm.. So I've got a triple monitor setup that I drive using the 3 displayports on my 980ti. Recently I got a Wacom Cintiq Pro 16 pen display tablet, and since I don't have thunderbolt 3 on my workstation, I use it by unplugging one of the DP monitors when I'm using it. The weird part is that the Wacom tablet only works properly if i plug it into the DP port closest to the PCIE Slot. Anywhere else and it starts exhibiting the following: 1. Random disconnects and reconnects (along with the windows USB connect/disconnect sound FX) 2. Terrible image retention/temporary burn-ins near the edges of the screen 3. Horizontal thin white bars that race down the right hand side of the screen 4. General display artifacts and color inaccuracies where the edges of the screen 5. large areas of flickering backlight occassionally 6. Increased backlight bleed The symptoms get worse and worse the farther the DP port I use is from the PCIE Slot. (i.e. plugging into the port closest to the SLI bridge makes the problems the worst, the middle one makes it a little better, and the one closest to the PCIE slot is pretty much free of issues). I am very curious why this would happen. AFAIK, all 3 DP ports are "known-good," as I use them regularly. I essentially swapped ports with one of my monitors to "solve" the issue. Any ideas why this would happen? I'm in the process of RMA'ing the tablet to see if anything changes...some videos here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-BceIbsnMZKnklNRgziPALtyWShRtbQ2
  4. Hi guys/gals I'm thinking of upgrading 950 Pro 512 GB NVMe SSD to a larger one (no dual m.2 for me). However, I've read that securely erasing SSD's can be troubling. I want it erased as securely as possible (just short of cutting it with a pair of branch snippers) before I sell it to some random stranger (just assume he is a professional scammer/identity thief) l. I know that one way would be to ground it and let it sit for like a year, which would rot the data away, but that takes way too long. I've found quite a bit of information which is often contradictory to other articles. So far what I've done: - ran Samsung's secure erase utility via bootable drive once (not sure if it worked, it finished in minutes, which makes it seem a little sketchy. - Used a bootable windows installer to format the drive (found that the secure erase utility missed the system reserved partition which happened to be on an HDD for some reason (happened a while ago). - Installed a fresh copy of windows - Checked that TRIM was enabled - Filled the drive completely with random unimportant pictures, programs, games, etc. till only 350KB was left - Used Samsung Magician's performance optimization daily (which I assume simply runs the trim command) Now my question is: I've heard a lot of people claim that "you shouldn't zero-fill/random-data fill an ssd". According to Samsung Magician, my 950 Pro has only written 9.4TB of data, whereas according to Samsung, the drive is rated up to 400 TB's written. At this rate, I could technically perform dozens of zero-fills as I want without having any real impact on life span. Therefore, is the aforementioned claim exclusively for the sake of maximizing the SSD's life span? or is there some other reason, such as zero-filling being an ineffective measure? Thanks PS: Theres a practical side to this question, but also a curious side to it
  5. Forgot to update status: Managed to pinpoint it to a dusty ram slot. I basically wiggled everything in the PC, including all power connectors, the cpu cooler, the GPU itself, and ram sticks to mimic a desk bump. Every time i touched the RAM, it would lock up immediately. The sticks were seated properly, but there was probably some foreign debris causing a weak connection inside the slot. Luckily, after dusting and reinstalling the RAM, the system no longer locks up when I wiggle them. The poor RAM connection was probably what caused my drivers to corrupt in the first place. Thanks for the advice guys It's neither of them, its another one I recently built for travel
  6. CPU stays in its 60's at most. most of the time it freezes on me, i am not doing anything, just listening to music. i can get into bios fine.
  7. could it be a bad ssd? maybe it doesnt hold its 0's and 1's correctly and corrupts the data. the drive is pretty old, a 3 year old 950pro thats been on for like 18 hours a day constantly. ram on the other hand is brand new. i didnt have 16g sticks for the dual-slot itx mb, so i got new sticks instead full system specs: asrock x99e-itx mobo i7-5930k aio liquid cooled samsung 950 pro as boot drive 2 hdds as mass storage RM1000 psu gtx 1070 gpu ps: could it also have something to do with the mouse? for example how the razer driver deals with the sensor being engaged/disengaged rapidly when viibrations happen and end up locking up?
  8. i dont remember the initial one exactly, but it was a recurring error code,and googling it turned up results on driver corruption. the one i got repeatedly was driver verifier detection violated. it would happen before i even got to windows, and would cause the system to restart, in an endless cycle of bsod's. safe mode would work, so it was clearly a third party driver thst was the culprit. i was too lazy to keep digging so i just reinstalled. now i don't even get bluescreens, just locks up and everything stops moving.
  9. hi guys, recently my PC's been having some issues for no reason. its been stable for about 2 months after i converted my old pc into an itx. it started out as driver errors which caused constant blue screens every few minutes (confirmed using verifier). System restore didnt work (it did nothing,not even erase my third party apps), so seeing as it was beyond salvation, i decided to clean install windows from a brand new iso from microsoft. The installation went relatively smoothly, and now i dont get bluescreens anymore. however, the system now locks up when I bump th table or sometimes when i slap my mouse down. this never happened in the past. I havent installed any updates or tried any new software recently, nor have i made any hardware changes. I initially thought the bluescreens were from bad ram, i got the same error everytime when i was having bluescreen so the probability of bad ram should be quote low (its new ram too). I also know that it cant be a harddrive, since i use a m.2 nvme as my boot drive. What could be causing this issue? any help appreciated, thanks
  10. thanks for the info! unfortunately the hardware im running is quite old, so the motherboard only has vga and hdmi. as for the 750ti, while the spec sheet given by asus says that the maximum digital resolution is 4096x2160, im assuming that is at 30hz, because the card only comes with a vga, 2 HDMI's, and a DVI-I dual link port. As for the section of your reply referring to “both cards,” there is only one card in the system right now because there is only one pci-e connector (6p) in total. A review i've read tested the PSU's 12V rails to up to 550+W before triggering OCP, which is way more than a single 1070 and i5 could possibly draw under normal use. the official continuous rating of the 12V rail is 360W, which is also way above the 150W maximum power consumption reported by EVGA (and the 65 watts from intel). So I'm pretty sure im safe on the PSU side of things. Well after some more fiddlin with the system, it does indeed output video, only for it to notify me of the lack of a sense cable... well then. mystery solved. i'll just wait for my 6pin-to-8pin converter then. Cheers and thanks to everyone who provided input!
  11. tried already. wondering if its the card that died sometime during storage, or if the missing ground pins really matter
  12. TLDR: will an evga 1070 sc black boot at all with only a 6pin connected instead of an 8pin? Hi peeps, so I'm giving my old PC to my mom, which has an i5-4590, a 450W psu, a 750ti, 2 1080p screens, and a 60hz 3440x1440 ultrawide monitor. The problem is, as it turns out, the 750ti has no means of supplying enough output bandwidth to saturate 3440x1440 at 60hz. So i decided to throw in a gtx1070 (evga sc black) thats been sitting around for ages. She doesnt game or anything, and im just throwing it in to utilize the triple monitor productivity potential and all, so the load on the gpu is going to be pretty much 0% all the time. However, the old 450w PSU i have only has a single 6pin pcie power cable, and the system isnt booting with that connected. I'm interested in knowing whether the card will boot at all with only a 6pin, or is it the card thats faulty? note: based on reviews of the power supply, i can be 100% sure that it does indeed have enough “beef” on the dual 12v rails in order to power a gtx 1070 (with cpu) to more than 100% power, so psu isnt an issue. note 2: i have no keyboard/mouse/IO at the moment, so that might be causing the no boot too... PS: i've bought a 6pin to 8pin converter, which has yet to arrive. any insight will be helpful, thanks!
  13. wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeebbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
  14. From my knowledge (of server RAM, i'm not sure about regular PC ram), It should have an exposed copper plane saying "SAMSUNG" on the edge. If its got that, its probably real. Also Google the model numbers on the black RAM chips, if they come up as Samsung, it won't really matter that much even if the stick itself is fake, because it's using real Samsung chips.
  15. As titled, how does a manufacturer manage to get nearly every BGA chip soldered correctly, whereas BGA repair for things such as the CPU socket is more like a 75/25 or a 50/50 at best?
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