Murilo_A

They are not PWM fans, so even on the lowest setting they are still very loud I did some testing using a phone app to measure noise levels (not sure how accurate it is) and also the integrated noise meter on the NZXT smart device (definitely high due to being close to the fans), I turned off the other 2 fans for this test. All fans at 0% (except CPU fan, at 1000 RPM): Phone: 39dB Case: 53dB Front fans at lowest setting (around 1200RPM): Phone: 41db Case: 56dB Front fans at 50% (around 1600RPM): Phone: 46dB Case: 59dB Front fans at 100% (around 2300RPM): Phone: 58dB Case: 67dB The 2 - 3dB difference from off to lowest setting seems low, but it's very noticeable to me. Also, I suspect the RPM readings are off, since this is a 2k RPM fan that's registering 2300 at 100% for some reason. I'm considering the ML140 Pro over the NF-A14 due to the significantly lower cost (close to half the price where I live), I've searched some more reviews and, although loud at max speed (which I don't intend on running, and it's probably still more quiet than the ones I have), they seen to be very quiet at lower RPMs.

Unfortunately the P12 is only available where I live via Amazon international shipping and they cost the same as the NF-A14

I want to replace both front fans in my PC as they're very loud. I was considering the Noctua NF-A14 Chromax as they have a good reputation, but they are expensive and I was looking for other alternatives. I saw the Corsair ML140 PRO (non-RGB) is much cheaper, and one yt review said they outperformed the NF-A14, but some customer reviews said they are very loud, so I don't know who to trust. Also would appreciate any other suggestions My current setup: Ryzen 5 3600X - Cooled by a CM Hyper 212 Black Asus GTX 1060 6GB Strix NZXT H500i Front fans (the ones I'm replacing): CM SickeFlow 120 (Cooler Master: SickleFlow 120 2000 RPM (archive.org)) Back and top fans: NZXT Aer F120 Case version

I tried exchanging the SSD cable with one of the HDs cable, but it didn't work. Also, my new SSD is M.2.

Well, this only happened twice while gaming, and it wasn't a very heavy game, so that's likely not my case

I've already tried another GPU, still got the same problem

(TL;DR at the bottom) So, about 4.5 months ago, my PC started to freeze randomly. It doesn’t exactly freeze, it’s more of a soft lock, the mouse still moves, but different programs react differently. Here’s a detailed explanation of what happens: The mouse will move normally, games will just freeze, Spotify stops playing, if I’m watching a livestream on Twitch it will freeze, but chat sometimes can still go on for some time before completely freezing, YouTube usually freezes the audio, and two or three seconds after, the video also freezes and the loading circle appears. Trying to open the start menu, the Windows icon turns blue and gets stuck that color, but it doesn’t open. Sometimes I manage to open task manager, but it takes at least 5 seconds to load, and the values don’t update, everything just stays at one value, I also sometimes get weird readings like -1% GPU Usage. Also, whenever I right click to show a context menu, it shows the menu, and when I click an option, the menu disappears but the option I click stays on the screen. If I click the power button, the HD/SSD light briefly lights up and goes off. The only way to get out of this state is forcing a shutdown. Long time ago, I’ve had a HD with a faulty SATA port, and I would get similar behavior, so I assumed my SSD was facing the same problem. I enabled SATA Hot Plug, the theory being that if the SSD was getting disconnected, it would be able to recover. And it worked, sometimes the program I was using would crash or something like that, but the computer would continue to run normally. But after some time, this didn’t matter, the complete lock ups came back, and I just lived with then. This happened usually only once a day, and only after the PC had already been on for at least 4 hours. The only exception I can think of is the time I was playing a game, the PC had been on for less than 2 hours probably, and it crashed, and after restarting it, it crashed just a few minutes later. My original hardware config was this: i5 4460 Asus B85M-E 8GB 1600MHz G.Skill Asus GTX 1060 6GB Kingston V300 240GB SSD 2x WD 1TB HDs Corsair CX550 I also use the H500i hub to control my fans A few days back, I ordered new parts, more specifically: Ryzen 5 3600X Asus B550M-Plus 16GB 3000MHz Corsair WD Black 500GB The last part arrived last monday, and I built everything the same day, I used it fine on Monday and tuesday, but on wednesday it crashed again, same behavior, same conditions. On friday though, things got worse, it crashed 4 times, all of them after the system was on only for around 2-3 hours. So I decided to start changing the other parts to see what could be the problem. Note: I was still using my old SSD, but it only had a few games, Windows was on my new SSD. First I changed the GPU to a GTX 750Ti, still crashed after about 2 hours. So I removed the old SSD and both of the HDs, leaving with only my new SSD, crashed after about 3 hours (Note: I had to reinstall Windows, because apparently Windows Boot Manager was on an old HD, and it didn’t install the boot partitions on my new SSD, so in order to boot from my SSD, I had to reinstall Windows, which means that when it crashed this time, I had very few software installed). And then I changed my PSU to an old Cougar ST Plus 500, and it kept running fine, without any problems for about 20 hours. And then it froze again. Note: Windows Event Viewer only shows “The shutdown of the system that happened at (time) was not expected.”, every time I’ve looked at it, it didn’t log anything prior to that. Sorry for the extraordinary long text, but I had to give as many details as possible to see if anyone can help me with this issue, I’m completely out of ideas, and don’t see anything else that could be causing this. TL;DR: My PC has been acting weird for 4.5 months, it soft locks in a way that most programs stop working or work very weirdly, but my mouse still moves and some stuff kinda works, I’ve seen similar behavior in HD with a faulty SATA port. I’ve changed basically every single part, and it’s still happening.

Try reducing the power limit for the GPUs with something like afterburner and reducing the max power for the CPU with Intel XTU. You will get worse performance but might help determine if the problem is the PSU.

I think there are some miner adapters that you can use to do that

No

I want to use from my keyboard USB that is connected in the back, and I've tried on all of them.

Basically, I want to charge my phone when my PC is off, didn't found anything saying that my mobo supports it and also couldn't find anything in the BIOS. Already tried enabling EHCI Hand-off (was disabled) and Intel xHCI Mode (was Smart Auto) as suggested in other forums and also unchecking the "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" in all USB devices in device manager, but it won't charge (though for some reason when I remove the USB cable the phone says it's charging for half a second, it's not a faulty USB because it happens with all of them). My Bluetooth dongle keeps it's light on and my keyboard and mouse lit up if I press then. Mobo is a B85M-E/BR from Asus.

Just an update to this case, I tried Sony but they said they can't fix it because the phone is too old (even if they did it wouldn't be worth it), I took to a guy that fixes phones and it only worked for a few minutes after I took it home, he couldn't fix it again and refunded me. Today I remembered seeing a guy with a phone that took a bath in the toilet and he managed to fix it by washing the mobo with alcohol, I decided to try and it worked! Still working normally for some hours now and no problems whatsoever

I had to restore my Xperia ZL and for some reason it didn't restore the backup from Google Drive (yes, I logged on my Google account during the setup), last time I had to restore it made this automatically, but now it didn't, is there any way to restore it? I mainly need WiFi settings, apps and other settings I can do manually. Before you say, yes, backup was on and I can see the backup in the Google Drive section for phone backups.

Nevermind, it was "Optimizing apps" for a while and after showing "Android is starting up" or something like that it turned back off and still in the same situation.

Still strange because it only turns off after the phone is already on, gave it another shot and for now it looks to be working (didn't do any other troubleshooting, just left it alone for a while). Doing the initial setup.

After being dropped my Xperia ZL worked fine for some time, then, it turned off and now when I turn it on, it turns on normally, but when it gets to the home page, it turns off (not a power cut, it says "Shutting Down..."), already tried to remove the SIM Card and restore to factory settings both without any success (recovered with Xperia PC Companion, it recovered normally, but still has the same problem, expect it doesn't show the home screen, it shows the first setting after restoring the phone). I don't think it's the battery, it was working fine and the phone turns off normally instead of cutting power. Additional info: Battery was at 77% last time I've checked. It shows it's charging if I plug in the charger, but even turning it on with the charger connected it doesn't work. I can't open it because I don't have a small enough screwdriver Battery is not removable.

So, basically I want to buy a Google OnHub, but there's one small problem, I use bluetooth headphones with my PC and if my phone is connected to the 2.4GHz Wi-Fi I get some interference, and if I'm using my headphones with my phone and 2.4GHz Wi-Fi, I don't get enough bandwidth to stream 1080p video (due to interference also). My question is, can I separate into two SSIDs? And if I don't is there somehow to force the phone to stay on the 5GHz Wi-Fi? Range should be good at most of the times (only 1 concrete wall most of the time, max is two concrete walls) so I don't except it needing to change to the 2.4, but you never know.

Should be the same as on PS3, at least on the PC is the same, try pressing right on the D-pad to see if it works. Chat can be turned off on Settings>Voice Chat

About that, the thing is I had no idea at what bitrate I was exporting, neither how to change, I'll see some tutorials before I try to export that again

So, I needed to joint a video and an audio together, Vegas Pro was crashing and I couldn't fix it, so I decided to try Adobe Premiere (which I have never used before), since it was a simple task, I though it was going to be easy, and it was, but... in the middle of exporting, I realized it was using only 30% of CPU and 100% of the hard drive (disk activity, not space), it was weird, but I left it doing that, turns out that when it finishes, Windows says I'm running out of space, and I find it weird because I had more than 400GB left on the hard drive and 80GB on the SSD, I went into the folder the video were, and I realized it was F***ING 422GB and a bitrate of only 440,000kbps. I don't know what I did wrong, neither how the f*** Premiere managed to do that (it was only a 1.8GB file). If you need to fill up your hard drive for some weird reason, just export a video in Premiere without changing the settings and you're done.

Maybe on the store it was bought, otherwise I don't think there are any other methods

Try uninstalling the drivers with DDU and then reinstalling again

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK008-Pure-Rock-Slim/dp/B00HPXZF2I/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1514244047&sr=1-10&keywords=am4%2Bcpu%2Bcooler&refinements=p_36%3A1253504011&th=1 This is 50 bucks and it's rated for 160W, so the fan should run at a low RPM (there are cheaper versions, but this one will allow lower fan noise), it's not AM4 compatible out of the box, but you can request a mounting kit for free on their website. I don't know much about coolers and I found out that this one might be good, I recommend seeing some reviews before buying.

So the PC needs to be running 24/7 to handle seamless handoff right?