Rodinski

It's BC; they're different over there.

Looks like this may be the case. Thanks seon!

If that's the case, what would I need to do to fix it?

I just purchased an AJAZZ068 and instantly installed some AKKO V3 Cream Blues in and absolutely adore it. One of my favorite keyboards. But I'm having an issue with my q key. If I press the switch all the way in, it stops registering. I have the switch just handing in the slot and it is registering the q key 90% of the time, but the moment I push the switch all the way into the board to where it clicks, it no longer works. I'm guessing there is a short somewhere. Initially I thought it may just be the prongs not making contact, so I tried bending the pins on the switch to various angles without luck. The switch worked fine initially. Any ideas on what I could do to fix this before I send it back? Is there a highly quality version of this layout by a different brand? I also noticed the slots, initially, were not flush with the board as compared to the other switches slots. After pushing on the board, they became flush again. Cheers for any help...

I assume the morgue must be pretty active then?

I'm using go canvas, but modifying their lists through excel. Turns out the ' is needed for leading zeros in order for it to read properly. But setting up a macro, I'll look into that.

Hey, I have to constantly convert an excel sheet with hundreds of barcodes as the CSV format is adding a ' to all barcodes with a leading zero. The format needs to be CSV or else the program we're using won't recognize it. Now I'm thinking it won't be an issue but I was wondering if there is a better way to do this. Excel also likes to convert some barcodes to scientific notation. Having to reconvert them all the time introduces issues such as removing some of the barcode and or adding zeros to the end. I'm trying to find a way around this so the next guy who doesn't have a background in this field modifies the reference data and ends up messing up all the barcodes. Any help would be appreciated.

SMSL C-200 ES9038Q2M DAC, USB/Optical/Coaxial/Bluet... to RCA/TRS Hi-Res Audio DAC with 4.4mm/6.35mm Headphone Output, Support PS4/PS5/XBOX, PCM32Bit/768kHz DSD512 DAC : Amazon.ca: Electronics Review: ASR Review You got 1.5 W to play with. Will even drive the Moondrop Paras that require 1W for 80 db. Edit: You will have pure unaltered sound all the way to hearing loss levels. You're sitting at end-game with this all in one.

Agreed. Sex scenes is movies is pointless and just takes away from the movie.

Heavy, wide, and square body. Too much weight that it lowers your traction coefficient in turns. Collisions have a higher chance of killing you than denting your car. I never got the appeal of muscle cars. Inefficient and slow. My corolla out performs all the classics.

This is getting ridiculous. A web browser should not be using that much. It never did, even with the same level of features as chrome had since the XP days. My desktop has 32 GB. Edge, with 40 processes is using 2 GB. I just shake my head. The "features" don't really add anything to the experience. Such a waste. Crappy coders these days. It's getting to the point I will rather suffer with Linux and continue Windows or Mac support.

exe for execute, no? We've always said "dot ee-ex-ee files."

Anything tuned to the harman curve will give you the greatest accuracy in positional audio.

TANCHJIM Space Portable DAC. Competes with most desktop setups. Audio science Review Or if you hav sensitive IEMs, might have better luck with this: TempoTec Sonata BHD Pro Another Audio Science Revoew

Shure 840.

TVs tend to be seeping with DSP and other digital processing that adds horrendous amounts of input lag. Even most TVs with "game mode" still have significant lag. Pixel response times also tend to be significantly more.

Just get off reddit. That place is beyond disturbing at this point. It's just a political crap hole of the worse of the worse.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll do some stresses and see how it goes. If you pulled yours off completely and it's still fine to this day, I guess the solders are stronger than I thought. I can't test it out till next week as I wait for parts. I'll see how stress tests go. I also figure that if the (I guess) controller pops out, I should be able to find someone to reball the chip back and do a data recovery if needed. For now I'll just keep the important stuff on another SSD. Thanks guys. Gives me some reassurance.

Thanks for the input so far guys.

I'm being a bit paranoid, hopefully. I installed the included heat spreader ADATA Legend 850 but decided to try and peel it off as the processor wasn't in good contact with the heat spreader. I tried pulling it off but the adhesive is a bit strong. I gave a big of a tug but realized the potential of pulling out the chip and thought I saw it slightly dislodge (im hoping it was just the adhesive). Should I be worried? I'm going to stress it after I get new mounting screws (stripped a screw while installing) but am now worried the longevity of the nVME could be compromised. Say, as it heats under load, the chip will slowly dislodge and I might lose everything on the drive in a year or 2. Anyone have any experience with this? Is it easy to know if you pulled the chip out slightly? Thanks for any input.

How much do these ram chips go for anyways. I doubt it adds much to the actually cost of the card.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with either. https://crinacle.com/graphs/headphones/graphtool/?share=IEF_Neutral_Target,DT770_Pro_(80Ω) K361 and K371 are very similar https://crinacle.com/graphs/headphones/graphtool/?share=IEF_Neutral_Target,K371 However, out of the two, you'd probably have better luck with the K361.

What alternative switches that are identical/similar?

I'm currently rocking an AnnePro 2 with Kailth Box White switches. I'm looking for a low profile of the same type of switch. Does something like that exist? Or even just something similar?