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Stuttgart

Member
  • Content Count

    69
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Stuttgart

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Munich / Germany
  • Occupation
    Airforce Pilot

System

  • CPU
    i7 4770k (Liquid Cooled)
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Maximus Hero VI
  • RAM
    16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport
  • GPU
    MSI Vega 64 Air Boost (Liquid Cooled)
  • Case
    Fractal Design R6
  • Storage
    Samsung Evo 850
  • PSU
    Corsair 750 RMi
  • Display(s)
    ASUS 23,5"
  • Cooling
    Custom Loop
  • Keyboard
    SteelSeries
  • Mouse
    SteelSeries
  • Sound
    SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64Bitt

Recent Profile Visitors

553 profile views
  1. Alright. Well, maybe its time forget water temps.
  2. I know i know - the rule of thumb is: 1x120rad for each component + 120 for headroom. But i dont feel quite well with this rule regarding the temperatures of the vega, especially under load. Currently im running a 360mm (30mm thickness) rad in front + 280mm (60mm thickness) rad at the top. i did some testing and these are the temperatues im getting: Following Temperatures are Coolant temperatue readouts. Ambient Temps at all tests 23-24°C Pump always at 100% 1st Test: 360mm front as intake, 280mm top as exhaust, phobya dc12-220, Fractal GP fans: idle - climbing up to 32°C, once reached, temps stay at 32°C. Gaming load (The Division 2) for 30min - water climbing up to almost 50°C, GPU at 52°C. at that point i was concerned about my tubing and i cancelled the test. 2nd Test: 360mm front as intake, 280mm top as exhaust, phobya dc12-400, Arctic SP fans: idle - about 29°C (+-1°) Gaming load (The Division 2) for 1h - water at 40°C, gpu at 45°C. 3rd Test: 360mm front as exhaust, 280mm top as exhaust, phobya dc12-400, Arctic SP fans @62% speed constant: idle - 26°C (+-1°) Gaming load (The Division 2) for 1h - water at ~38°C, GPU ~43°C A little side note regarding the 3rd test: I am fully aware of the fact that i have a huge amount of negative pressure inside the case, but ironically this setup cools my components the best. One explanation im giving myself is that the front radiator which acts as an intake, heats up the whole system, including the top radiator. Im thinking about buying a 140mm rad for the exhaust slot at the back of the case and switching the 360mm to the top, removing the 280mm completely. This would be the only configuration i would have some kind of airflow, with 3 140mm fans in front blowing into the case and the 140mm+360mm rads exhausting the fresh air. If im using the 280 + 360 i will always have one of the following: a) negative pressure or b) warm air pumped into the case But at this point i am not sure if the ~500mm rad surface will be enough for cooling my 350w tdp vega64 compared with an i7 4770k at 130w tdp. Please advise. Im desperate. Edit: I dont have any chance to use external radiators like a MoRa or similiar. My Fractal R6 has no connectors for external rads.
  3. can confirm that the arctic p series fans are pretty much underrated. they offer a great performance / price ratio imo.
  4. Stuttgart

    Radiator Suggestions Needed - Low FPI / Low RPM

    First of all - calm down. You never told me not to mention the Tower it in this thread, so i dont see a problem beeing a "snitch". And there is no input or tutorial when it comes to mixing metals, the only advice is: do not do it. There is no workaround for chemical / physical laws. But ofc, if you want to, no one will hold you back, go for it. Go let your expensive parts corrode and eventually destroy your Hardware. But beeing offended because someone tried to explain the problem to you and prevent you from making expensive(!) mistakes is just dumb.
  5. Stuttgart

    Radiator Suggestions Needed - Low FPI / Low RPM

    I talked via PM to him and hes going to use a Zalman Reservator V1, which is 100% made of Aluminum. I think thats why he is asking those questions. I already told him NOT TO mix metals, especially copper with Aluminum.
  6. Stuttgart

    My Gigabyte 2080 Ti just caught on fire.

    RMA it, sell it. Im also done with Gigabyte.
  7. Stuttgart

    Radiator Suggestions Needed - Low FPI / Low RPM

    Im using a 280 / 60 mm Phobya G-Changer v2 for the top in my build and the radiator is pretty decent. Low FPI and good cooling capabilitys. Nice to know is that Phobya and Alphacool together are one Brand. Thats why the G-Changer is the same as the NexXxos Full Copper UT60 from Alphacool.
  8. Stuttgart

    Help with my first build

  9. Stuttgart

    My pc random restart

    Also unplug the ethernet cable.
  10. Stuttgart

    My pc random restart

    Sorry if i am missing something. But is it "crashing" or is it just a regular restart process?
  11. Stuttgart

    My Gigabyte 2080 Ti just caught on fire.

    Seems like the cable melted and turned upwards hitting the fan above. The real question is: why does it melt? Votlage spikes?
  12. Stuttgart

    My Gigabyte 2080 Ti just caught on fire.

    Wow. This is pretty scary. It's well known that the 20xx Series Chips have some kind of issues here and there, but this brings it to a whole new level, even its obviously Gigabytes fault. They should work on their Quality Management.
  13. Stuttgart

    Help with my first build

    Whats wrong with the PSU? Ive been using this PSU for over 4 years without a single problem. Its from a known brand and the quality is pretty good for the price. And ofc, theres no real reason for putting an mATX Board into an ATX case. But it fits, and as long as the board meets your needs, why not?
  14. Stuttgart

    Help with my first build

    As far as i know there is no big drawback for getting a used graphics card. Linus also did a Video on this where he compared a mining Card versus a new one, there was no difference at all when it comes to performance. Just get a used one with valid warranty and you'll be fine.
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