Prophet of Entropy

it would help to know what kind of processor your using, if its one that thermal grease between the die and the IHS that's bad, ive heard of people getting 20C drops in temp after delidding bad ones. theres more to cooling your CPU then rad space.

if your gonna use a pre-mixed coolant like the koolance stuff, you do not need any extra anti-corrosion/biocide stuff. premixed coolants have biocide and anti-corrosive chemicals in them already. with the amount of rads and components your probly going to need about 700-1000ml of coolant. plus its nice to have extra to top up your loop, since most hoses will absorb some fluid and slowly let it evaporate. also you didn't mention how big of reservoir youll have so don't forget to add its volume to how much coolant you need.

kinda ghetto, fully awesome! love it, good job man.

in my country house hold water pressure is up to about 100psi, but it varies. normally 20-50psi but yes clean your rad, I filled my sink with hot soapy water and circulated it through my rads until it cooled off, like 2 hours, I used a syphon pump to prime my circ pump. didn't care about filings so much since I planed and do use a inline filter before my pump.

you have no real need to run your vario at max speed if its in your computer case. turn it to 2 or 3 don't need to run it faster then that.

I wouldn't buy that kit. water cooling isn't that hard and if your willing to spend over 250$ on just a cpu loop you should get a pump that's expandable like a kit with a 360+mm rad a true D5.

you can buy extremely thermally conductive pads that are also electrically conductive. but no. no manufacturer ships these pads with any blocks.

easy, can be done in like 5 minutes if you know what your doing and it will actually fit. no need to buy any special stuff to clean your IHS (if you aren't using an exotic TIM, like a metal one, artic silver isn't a metal TIM) any rubbing alchahol above 70% will work great.

there are recommended sites to buy stuff, in the stickies at the top of the watecooling forum.

the card isn't even out yet. wait till it is then see if any blocks will fit. or just plan on using a universal block on it.

if your going to air cool, a hydro copper card (it comes with a factory installed waterblock! FOR WATER COOLING!!!) is the wrong card buy. risks of leaks? no real way to tell unless you can see RMA rate some how. (retailer or EVGA employee) but they keep coming out with them so they are making money doing it, so i'd guess not any more then air.

how long between maintenance? 6 months to 2 years + , it depends on what your using. if you use compression fittings you should check for slack often for the first month. chance of leaks? guarantied to no chance. this mostly comes down to part failure and assembly mistakes. will you want to go back? maybe depends why your watercooling.

its only got rumored specs atm, and its only difference with the standard titan is a fully unlocked GK110, so maybe.

if you want black tubing you can always go clear tube for visibility and a black coolant like feser's black coolant.

to get great temps with haswell chips you either have to be very lucky or de-lid them.

a 280mm rad is plenty for a cpu only loop.

it should be fine

the problem with thinner rads is they normally have higher restriction then thicker rads. thin rads have high Fins Per Inch to cool as much as a thicker rad that has much lower FPI. thick rads with a good low speed pressure fans are optimal for silence.

Fractal ARC or Define XLs

yes, though why are you running supply to your PSU at 240v? that just seems like a bad idea.

putting together a water loop is never the cost effective thing to do. that being said fittings, pumps, res, cpu block and rads should all be able to be reused for the next 1-3 upgrade cycles, so take that into account. but yea your parts list looks good. other then your case doesn't natively support a triple 140 rad, so if you want to use a triple 140 instead of a triple 120 youll need to mod your case. id just go with a 360 and a 240 up front and use 1 kind of fan. a cpu block will give you better temps then an AIO, just fyi.

if all your looking for is a 4.2Ghz OC a high end air cooler will get you there and be cheaper and more reliable. and if you want quiet a custom loop or a custom kit would be a lot better then an AIO.

DO NOT PUT ANYTHING ON THE THREADS! the O-ring on the fitting will do fine. now that's that out of the way, you wont be getting high pressure in your loop like 5-6psi tops. reservoirs; pick what you want but keep in mind how you are going to fill and bleed your loop when selecting one (tubes are easiest imo) fitting don't need to be tightened much (snug, then 1/2 turn or so to compress the 0-ring) water loops are quite low pressure and the O-ring at each fitting connection will do fine. if you want use a tiny bit of silicon grease on the O-ring so it seals perfectly. Laing D5 pumps are the most reliable watercooling pumps on the market, brand and variant doesn't mean anything for reliability, only Laiing manufactures them. for only a 290 any rad bigger then 120X120mm will be fine. all that being said building a whole loop just for 1 gpu is odd. if you go for cheap as you can a loop will be 100-140$ buying used parts. I wouldn't buy the marketing of the cryo-venom people, it wont be faster then a stock 780ti once its overclocked, never mind a water cooled one. you can OC a stock 780ti 10-15% easy. its also just a stock 290 PCB with an EK waterblock and a factory overclock. as for warranties, EVGA's warranty covers removing the stock cooler as long as you keep all the parts and put it back on before you RMA it. the cryo-tech isn't a bad card to get if you already had a custom loop and were looking to upgrade your GPU. just don't think it will out preform a kingpin 780ti which is gonna cost about the same if you have to buy a new loop. but buying something like this https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dual-radiator-laing-d5-complete-watercooling-flex-kt/ and 2 extra fittings for the cryo tech card is something I think would be worth while.

some fans will have the exact same decibel rating but be more noticeable then others. some people find louder fans with a certain sound profile to be better/more pleasant, then quieter fans that sound different. so anything we say other then, pick what you want, is pretty meaningless. I'm fine with the GTs sound profile, other people aren't. i've never heard SP120s in real life, so (shrug)

was wondering why you build is so birds nesty, then I noticed your running water though your MB, no need to since no 1150 cpu is gonna draw enough power to really need watercooled mofsets with any case airflow. your temps are fine, specially since you didn't delid your haswell. as for burn temps? the only use i've had for artificial stress programs is for them is to heat up my loop faster, but I've since switched to simply turning off rad fans until I got the temps I wanted (heated my coolant to 65C, thermal probe in my res, to expand the air bubles and help bleed out all the air). try folding to load your gpu and cpu at the same time, it will load your system as much as any real world application will, without putting odd loads on specific parts of the cpu die.