paddy-stone

I think you should be able to set the frequency manually. In my UEFI/BIOS I have XMP disabled, and underneath that I have set the frequency.

Cool, glad you got it sorted. Yes some of the PC building can be up to interpretation rather than an actual value. I lost cound of the amount of standoffs/screws that I've broken/stripped over the past 25 years for example. With mounting pressure, I always use a screwdriver rather than relying on "hand tight" for the thumbscrews, even though I am strong. For me it's a mix of being disabled and also awkwardness of gripping stuff like that in tight spaces. Always better to use a screwdriver IMO.... I usually go by how hard the screw is to turn... you can usually tell when the screw has reached the limit, then I do about a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn more.

When it reboots it might be automatically downclocking the frequency or using JEDEC frequency default of 2133Mhz IIRC, but could be wrong, that might be when the PC reboots itself due to not passing POST. You could try running them a bit looser timings etc. Might be worth asking in the memory forum how you'd go about getting the 2 kits to match up. I'd offer to help, but that's beyond my knowledge as I only ever run 2 sticks that are matched. If you don't want to, I totally understand and hope you have no probs with the new kit

Sorry I didn't see that you'd previously mentioned it... this is why they have a rule about reposting the same faults, as it can get complicated for everyone concerned. Did you try all slots with a known working ram module? it could be a faulty mem slot. It could also be that even though the modules are the same brand/speed etc they are not matched, so not guaranteed to work together. You might have to manually set the voltage and timings etc to try and get them to work... it can be very finicky. Personally speaking I would maybe have just sold the kit you already had, and then got 2x16GB modules instead, which are tested to work together. Can you return the kits and get most of your money back? or would it be a massive hit?

Yeah, I wouldn't RMA them unless I knew there was a fault. Do you have any other hardware on your PC, like USB external drives or anything? if so unplug them for testing. I would strip the PC down to barebones for more testing personally. Also have you looked at the specs for your mobo, some mobos have a limit on frequency for 4x ram sticks IIRC, so stepping down the frequency might help too, at least for testing purposes anyway. If the problems only started when you added 2 more sticks, then I would say the above might be the problem RE the frequency limit for 4 sticks, usually the vendor specifies a max frequency for OC, but that IIRC is for 2x sticks, so might have to dig into it a bit to find out. eg, this is for my mobo

£157 in the UK... that's the problem with different markets, something that's a great deal in one market is pretty crap in another.

I had a look at your previous thread, and one thing stood out to me. When you were asked if you tested the RAM you replied that you had tested each stick in each slot.... but you never mentioned memtestx86. So did you run memtestx86 or not? if not then I would suggest you do that as it could be a fault in one stick that's causing all your problems. I had this before, about 15 years ago with some expensive RAM sticks, I RMA'd them and got replacements, but in the end I sold those brand new sticks and went with a different vendor... never had a problem again.

Yep, that looks more normal. You'll have to monitor it for a bit to be sure though, as 1 minute or so is still very early to consider it fixed. Ahh I see it's been 18 hours + now, so hope it's fixed for you

Not correct. Ia m also running an 11400f version though, and temps are fine even on cinebench run... I've only got a bequiet pure rock slim 2 cooler on it too.... complete build https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/BMWCC6 OP, I'd say it might be your case that's limiting it, or possibly even the mounting pressure of the cooler. At idle (for me this includes running jellyfin server, some nzb stuff and others), it's sitting at 42-44C mostly, and case fans etc are set to very low too, almost inaudible. Cinebench run took it up to 90C towards the very end of a single run on multi-core. Was running at 4.2Ghz all core. If left running it might eventually reach the point of throttling, but that could be addressed by getting more fresh air into the case, or buying a better cooler... if you've already tried a better cooler, which you have, then to me that suggests it might be the case isn't getting enough air in possibly... try running it with the case open and see how it goes.

I'm not sure, that could be very hard to find out... I looked at the specs for my TV and it doesn't mention anywhere whether it can read GPT partitions. Actually come to think of it, the media player also doiesn't mention it, so if you're limited to MBR, you may still be limited to 2TB per partition, so maximum of 4x2TB IIRC for MBR. Sorry I forgot about the media player also might have those limitations I have used NAS or shared drives from my PC for a long ass time now, so forgot about that, I am sorry. But looks as though this limitations would also be on newer TVs too possibly. Might be time to think about using a computer as the media player, then as long as the computer has UEFI/GPT support (which it shoould), then there's no limit to size of drive it's able to read/write. A cheaper op[tion would be to use a raspberry pi with raspbian OS which should have no trouble reading GPT.... but to playback x265/hevc content I believe you'd need pi4.

Hmm that is weird. I would suggest testing the cables that connect the errant devices... and also use a separate cable if possible to run to all the devices, for testing. so for example run the cable to your good pc that gets good speeds, then run that same cable to your older pcs etc, that way you know it can't be the network ports or the cable itself being the problem.... if that is the case and you test those devices with the same equipment exactly, then that means it's most likely your network card in those devices or settings on those devices are the culprit.

Instead of buying a new TV, you'd be better off getting a media player assuming that's what you're using it for. Then the media player is doing the inter-connecting between the TV and the storage device. The limitations of the TV don't matter then. The media player would be much cheaper than buying a new tv, just make sure it can read GPT partitions and NTFS file systems. GPT is needed for bigger HDDs than 2TB, and NTFS is needed to be able to get around the 4GB file size limits of FAT file systems IIRC.

I'm not sure of this, but it sounds to me like the cheapo 5 port switch might only be a 10/100, and that is getting saturated during downloads, and therefore your other devices stop responding... it's just a guess though. If it's not the switch, then it must be the router if you've already ruled out the modem being the problem.

Yes.

The one you chose is fine, just select 7000 under the XMP profile/frequency as that board can only go up to 7000 according to the newegg link. [edit] You can view more about the mobo via this Link

^This. It's changed the boot order to the new drive. Go into UEFI/BIOS and change it to the previous SSD as the boot drive, and it should be exactly as it used to be.

Return it to retailer as DOA, and either get a replacement or get a different NVME drive.

It's when OC'd/XMP profile selected. Usually RAM operates at the minimum for that version, eg DDR5 in this case. IIRC it's so that you don't get problems when trying to boot, so for example if you were to wet this at 7200, but either your mobo doesn't support it or it needs fine tuning to be stable, then it can revert to the min spec and will work. It's using XMP 3.0

Agree. I've got a 4k OLED TV and nvidia shield for playback, and it's awesome, I don't have any problems playing back almost anything. For the other TVs and mobiles etc in the house I just have a 720p/1080p version with 2 channel sound. Depends on who you have in the house of course, but I don't bother recoding/acquiring a different version of my whole library as that would be prohibitively expensive. If that is your case where you actually NEED the whole library available, then yes transcoding would probably be the more cost effective solution. I usually only get 4k versions of stuff that I absolutely love, as it's unlikely I will get more enjoyment out of watching something that's just meh! in 4k. I do get HDR/10/5.1 dolby/vision/dts/thx versions for pretty much everything though. 2.1 channel just sounds really flat to me, plus the voices can be really low and can't hear what people are saying quite often... which drives me mad! At the moment I use my main pc with an 11400f/16GB 3600/512GB NVME/GTX1060 with a 6TB and 8TB USB 3.1 external drives for storage, and 2x NAS/servers for other storage. I use jellyfin server for serving media around the house, which can make use of the GPU for transcoding if needed, but it generally doesn't need to and direct plays almost everything. This means I can have my PC on most of the day for my usage even if people are serving media, it doesn't have any noticeable effect on my usage of the PC as I don't game on it anyway. The only things I bought for the desktop was the 11400f (£100), mobo (150-ish), as I had everything else from previous builds anyway... the NAS/servers are only turned on for backup purposes or in the even of a failure (not happened yet).

Literally googled it and found this for you https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Cooling/LGA1700-Retrofit-Kit/p/CW-8960091

^this. It's definitely a hardware fault. But could even be just a faulty PSU cable, I'm assuming though that the chieftec PSU isn't modular? but hopefully it has another GPU cable you can try? If no luck there, i'd carry on with what others mentioned above.

OK, so if I'm getting this right. You can disconnect the SATA SSD. Then install windows on your NVME drive... that would mean though that there is a bootloader on each drive, and you would set one of them to be your boot drive in the bios/uefi. That would mean by default it would boot into that drive unless told otherwise. If you wanted to boot into the other drive you could hit F11 during POST to choose the other drive to boot.

Could be worse

Boot times is time taken to boot into OS... that's why I asked about reinstalling windows. If you had not reinstalled windows there was a chance that the old drivers etc were holding up the system booting faster. What you're actually experiencing is slow POST times. There should be a setting in the BIOS/UEFI for fast boot, and probably another for skipping checking for legacy devices. Be aware that turning on fast boot will skip you being able to enter bios/uefi, and you would need to reset CMOS to be able to get back into bios, and you'd have to re-input bios settings. So my advice would be to first find out how to save your bios settings in case of having to reset cmos before doing anything else. If the above doesn't sort out your long POST times, then I'd also look into setting your ram to defaults, and see if that fixes it, as it could be trying to load your ram settings at POST, and not being able to, then having to restart with defaults.... as I can't see what you're seeing it's harder to be sure of that, but with the long POST times, it could be possible.