TheRandomness

Best to check RAM speeds using CPU-Z. Also, surprised if that DDR4-4400 is actually real, considering how difficult it usually is to get RAM to clock that high.

Getting a pic of the PSU and posting it here (or finding out what model it is specifically) would be nice. A 4070 would be a nice drop in upgrade, as would be more RAM. I would suggest buying an entirely new kit of RAM though, if you want more. Mixing and matching kits tends to lead to stability nightmares if you're even slightly unlucky.

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Recently replaced with Dekoni elite velours. Comfy. "Not detachable" is just a suggestion. If they're taped/glued on, just rip them off and have new ones at the ready!

- Thread moved to Cases and Mods.

Have you tried a BIOS update for the board? Asus' website says that the 5600X was supported since BIOS version 1004, which isn't the original version. Then again, if it's a new board it should already have the latest BIOS, but it'll be a sanity check regardless.

What a garbo picture. These are great.

Another vote towards the Sundara if you don't mind its more bass lean, bright sound. I would say that unlike what @incredeblebobs said, it doesn't necessarily need an amp, but it does get a little better with one. HD 600 or, a 6XX and amp/DAC would also be another great choice like what they said.

-Thread moved to Networking.

Less just repeatedly pausing and swapping materials, and more inserting another printed part like you would if you paused a print to insert a bearing.

If it's such that one part must slide into another, and the centre needs to be printed in a different material (say, imagine two concentric cylinders, inside in PETG and outside in PLA), you could print the core first, then when printing the outside, you can tell the printer to pause at a layer for you to then insert the core, and then continue printing to embed the core. An example to explain what I mean because I have no clue how else to say it lol

You're asking a lot of your potential machine. If anything, you could get an Ender 3 V2 / Ender 5 and just upgrade the hell out of it. An E3D Chimera as an upgrade with their stainless steel/nozzle X nozzles (as you want to print abrasives) would fulfill the print two things requirements -- though that would require firmware changes and most likely, you'd need to upgrade the mainboard. And, as you want to print abrasives, that somewhat limits your choices. With a requirement for 0.2mm wall thickness you'd want a 0.15 or 0.2mm nozzle, but it's not recommended to print abrasives through such a small nozzle due to the increased risks of clogs. Why do you need to print 2 materials simultaneously? Is it inherent to your design? Or can the part be changed in such a way as to avoid this requirement?

To add onto above, you'll also have to take out the two black screws at the top of the I/O shield as that's holding onto the cooler's shroud.

- Thread moved to CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory.

I can vouch for the Hifiman Sundara. Combine that with a Schiit Modi/Magni stack, or a JDS Labs El amp, and you'll be golden. Though the Sundara is an impressively efficient headphone I can highly recommend at least getting some amplifier for it. Going from my laptop's headphone jack to a Fiio Q1ii (from ??? mW to >220mW using the balanced out) I got some good, audible differences.

- Thread moved to New Builds and Planning.

- Thread moved to Laptops and Pre-Built Systems.

- Thread moved to CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory.

- Thread moved to New Builds and Planning.

- Thread locked. Fantasy builds are not allowed here.

Wasn't there already a thread for this? Maybe I'm misremembering something. Anyway, hi.

- Thread moved to New Builds and Planning.

- Thread moved to New Builds and Planning.

The Scarlett Solo and the UM2 are both audio interfaces rather than amps alone. Meaning, it's about $50 for a mic preamp, DAC/ADC and amp all in that price. Can be thought of having a $17 amp if the funds were all divided equally among the different components. If you are willing, Schiit has the Magni 3+ or Heresy (pick whichever makes you feel happy tbh, both are $99, the differences are colours and some numbers that you most likely cannot hear anyway) and they are benchmark amps at that price point. You can connect to them using a 3.5mm to 2x RCA from the line out on your motherboard. Out of all currently suggested I agree with @geo3 the most, though if anything I'd recommend just saving up to get something you wont need to replace ever, basically. I lean away from sound cards because of some grudges against electronic noise you'll find present in a PC.

- Thread moved to Peripherals.