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About DragonTamer1

  • Title
  • Birthday 1992-07-09


  • CPU
    Intel Core i5-2500k @ 4.2GHz
  • Motherboard
    MSI P67A-C43 ATX LGA1155
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair Vengence DDR3 1600
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 760 4GB Superclocked
  • Case
    Thermaltake H22
  • Storage
    ADATA 120GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM, WD Blue 1TB 7200 RPM
  • PSU
    Corsair Enthusiast 650W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
  • Display(s)
    AOC 919Vwa 19.0", Acer S200HLAbd 20.0", HP w19b 19"
  • Cooling
    Deepcool GAMMAXX 300
  • Keyboard
    MK270 Wireless keyboard
  • Mouse
    MK270 Wireless mouse
  • Sound
    Creative Inspire T2900, Creative Wireless HS-1200 headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64 bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  • Steam

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1,027 profile views
  1. With airflow it is difficult to make a huge difference in temps. No matter what you do, you should only expect a maximum of 5*C difference of what you are getting now (though it may change depending on the fans you have and the quality of them). Taking out the forward top fan will help a bit because it will not be pulling air away from the GPU before it gets a chance to use it. By having the low pressure area at the back and rear of the case allows the most amount of airflow from the front intakes to pass by the GPU on its way to the low pressure area. The single biggest change to GPU temps can be made by adding a bottom mounted fan blowing fresh air straight up at the GPU, however since your case has a basement, that's not an option. Again, those temps are normal for your scenario. The BIOS switch causes instability, the last time I switched it the system didn't boot and it took me a half an hour to get it to boot again.
  2. You want one top mounted fan towards the back, and you want a rear mounted fan. Use both intake fans on the front so that you have airflow coming in. You will want to have the fans balanced in terms of speed, with the exhaust fans being faster if you are not happy with your temps. This will help create a lower pressure area near the back of the case that should help pull hot air away from the GPU and towards the exhaust. To be honest though your temps are not only fine, but perfectly normal. I have the exact same GPU in my system and it behaves in a similar manner. 70*C is not a problem temperature, it's when it starts to exceed 80*C that you should worry.
  3. My friends and I came up with the idea of making a Railgun parody called; A Certain Scientific Retard. Instead of using electricity to shoot arcade coins, she just runs up and beats people with a sock full of quarters. Kuroko just makes a bunch of noises as she runs from place to place saying she's a teleported.
  4. Get something like a GAMMAXX 300 or a Hyper T2. They are about the same price with very similar performance and should work just fine for what you need.
  5. Riings would work just fine in that case, I would not recommend going with a mini GPU though. Something along the lines of dual fan to triple fan would work just fine. That includes the Zotac dual fan short cooler, it would be just fine. As for the CPU cooler, you can probably get a Cryorig H7 if you are not going to go with the stock cooler. If you just want something that keeps it cool and is a little more quiet, try looking at one of the smaller Deepcool (specifically the GAMMAXX 300) coolers as it better than the stock cooler (temps and thermals), close to the 212 EVO and is usually cheeper. There are others you can get from different companies, however this is the one that I am personally familiar with.
  6. If you hover over my avatar it comes up with the options for blocking/PM etc. You can just post your parts list here. If you are using stock coolers than the only real factor to consider is the case and the size of the GPU.
  7. Acoustic measurement is not a universal standard. There is also a curve to the acoustics as well as the airflow and static pressure. Just because you run a fan at 100% doesn't mean it's going to move twice as much air, twice as efficiently with twice as much noise as at 50%. Typically, it is a degradation with the increase in RPM. What case are you using, the layout of the drive cages, the size and orientation of the CPU cooler, the physical size of the GPU all make a difference in terms of airflow through the case. While I personally like the way the Riings look, I would never recommend them for a case that puts drive cages right behind the intake fans. They have a very hard time pushing air past drive cages unless the cages are very low profile. If the CPU cooler is very large and is in close proximity to the rear exhaust fan then I would recommend a SP optimized fan over an airflow fan since the fan needs to pull additional air past and possibly through the cooler. A long GPU doesn't necessarily require any special fan type since it will occupy a large portion of the case and reach closer to the front intake for fresh air. Shorter GPUs would run cooler with airflow fans that are unobstructed and throw air towards the back of the cage much faster for the GPU to take in. You also want to try and visualize the airflow through the case and try to predict how the air is going to flow through. You want the air to make as clean of a path through the case as possible.
  8. I just recently finished building a Xeon system that uses an E5-1650 which is basically an i7-3930K with support for up to 256GB of ECC RAM (it even comes with an unlocked multiplier). I built the system because I was on a tight budget but wanted something that could render my videos faster than the 2500K I was using. I paid $87 USD for the processor and it is incredible. It does everything I ask and usually still has CPU power left over. I was able to overclock it to 4.7 out of the gate but I run it at 4.5 because motherboards for it are expensive and hard to come by (the CPU already killed one). If you are doing video editing or code compiling then yes I would recommend a six core processor, however I would also not suggest something from the latest gen and look at used to save money. As everyone else in this thread has already said, Ryzen is just as good in these tasks for less money so it makes it hard to recommend at the price you pay (hence why I went used).
  9. Realistically, the differences between SATA III SSDs is not usually noticeable in real world applications. There are some applications were you may notice a small difference in performance between the two. Usually you don't want to look at raw speed, but rather the consistency of the speed while in use. Some SSDs will get quite hot while under heavy load and will throttle in response. You would notice a bigger difference in performance if you go from SATA to M.2 (that uses PCIe not SATA lanes). The most important thing is to find an SSD that fits what you want to use it for, while being in your price range. For example, I don't put games on my SSD because it doesn't make a difference with load times. In the few games with a noticeable improvement in load times, I'm still waiting for a countdown timer at the start of the match anyway. I do put video and image editing programs as well as Steam and web browsers since these see the biggest performance in crease.
  10. That's Weeaboo to you. Thank. You. Very. Much.
  11. The actual screws are on the back of the motherboard.
  12. If it's not a philips head screw then it is probably a torques head screw.
  13. Try looking into the cards by Sapphire. They are not the best performing cards but run cool enough and quiet enough to be acceptable. They aren't the cheapest but they are still cheaper than the GTR or the GamigX.
  14. The only game that I played with my 2500K+480 combo that struggled was GTA V. I wasn't able to get a very high overclock though so you might fair better.
  15. You can get whichever one of the logic gates you want, the only difference between them is small details like switching speed, current output, and operating voltage. Unless you are working with current power supplies or high operating frequencies (in excess of 10MHz) then there is no reason to be concerned about the prefix.