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About DragonTamer1

  • Title
  • Birthday 1992-07-09


  • CPU
    Intel Xeon 1650 V0 (4.5GHz @1.36V)
  • Motherboard
    MSI X79A-GD45 Plus
  • RAM
    48GB of mixed DDR3 1600 (Corsair, Crucial and Team Vulcan)
  • GPU
    XFX RX 480 GTR (1288 MHz)
  • Case
    Silverstone Redline (black) RL05BB-W
  • Storage
    ADATA 120GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM, WD Blue 1TB 7200 RPM
  • PSU
    SeaSonic X850
  • Display(s)
    AOC 919Vwa 19.0", Acer S200HLAbd 20.0", Dell 1909W 19.0"
  • Cooling
    be quiet! Dark Rock 3
  • Keyboard
    Logitech K120
  • Mouse
    Unknown budget Logitech
  • Sound
    Creative Inspire T2900, Creative Wireless HS-1200 headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64 bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  • Steam

Recent Profile Visitors

1,217 profile views
  1. No, this list is quite short. I demand that you fix it so it is much longer.
  2. The laptop you listed in your first post only has a 15.6 inch screen. As far as I know they don't make 1080p monitors that small. I could go look for some but they are going to complicate your build. On the other hand, 720p monitors are readily available. If you want to try for triple monitor gaming on your laptop I would try to discourage you from that and say instead to just get a single ultra wide monitor for your games. At the same time, since you also want a VR headset, you would need a display port splitter for your flanking monitors. This is one that I found on Amazon. Keep in mind, I'm speculating since I don't have any of this hardware, I can say though that triple monitor gaming is not all it's cracked up to be.
  3. I've never noticed any noise with mine, it could have been a bad fan from the factory. When replacing the fan did you get a 90mm fan? The mounting bracket is not a full 120mm.
  4. You could try something like a Deepcool Gammaxx 300 or 200T. Both are pretty cheap and pretty short for a vertical cooler. I'm still running the 300 on my 2500K because it does a great job of keeping up.
  5. A computer like that is not even going to push the PSU hard enough to need a fan.
  6. I think it should be fine. Placing the PSU in the case with the vents facing up would allow the GPU to pull some air through the power supply itself. I'm not entirely sure how this would affect the GPU temps as it would probably depend on what GPU you are using. It should offer better cooling performance for the PSU (theoretically) since both the GPU and PSU would be producing more heat under load and thus causing the GPU to pull more air. In any case, the PSU itself should be fine. I doubt that it will get hot enough to overheat.
  7. There used to be some, I had them in a playlist. It seems that youtube's copyright system is still taking things down.
  8. I have the song on my computer, I was just going to upload it there.
  9. Are you on the discord?
  10. Clean your cooler, re-seat it and put new thermal paste on. Move one of your case fans to exhaust. Positive pressure doesn't help with cooling, just to keep the dust out. Negative air pressure is better for cooling. It's much more important to have directional airflow through the case in a clean and steady path. Having exhaust fans at the top and back, with intakes at the front and bottom is the best config.
  11. No, changing the fan curve does not void the warranty. On XFX cards, the only things that I can think of that void it are removing the cooler and flashing the BIOS (or straight taking a hammer to it). I have an XFX GTR, not entirely sure what one (definitely not the top tier one). And it can get toasty depending on the games. It's worth keeping in mind that even if the GPU runs at 100% all the time in two different games, it can hit different temps because of the way the game is coded. I know of one (garbage) game that tortures GPUs nu-necesarily. My card would run at 100% all the time just to hold 55 FPS (game still looked bad as well), and the card was pulling over 150W measured.
  12. I would not recommend a fixed fan speed because then your CPU can't turn up the fan for extra cooling when needed. The fan that comes with the 212 is not great for noise. If you have issues with the noise, you can try getting a different fan for the cooler or get a better cooler. I would suggest testing your load temps with different fan curves. Idle temps are pretty pointless most of the time so I tend to ignore them. The fact that it is sitting at around 50 is not alarming because I can see from your BIOS that you have the case fans at a lower speed. Setting the case fans to help bring in fresh air when needed could also help with temps a bit but add to the noise.
  13. Make sure that when you mount it, the locking nuts are tight to the point they won't really turn anymore. You shouldn't break the bracket if you tighten down (if you did I would complain about the boards build quality). Those locking nuts need to be very tight to get a a nice connection. Just don't use any kind of power tool to mount. If you've already remounted and tried everything else that was suggested, set a more aggressive fan profile. While the cooler shouldn't need it, you can easily get away with running the be quiet fans at full speed and hardly even hear them. Their ariflow is not stellar so a higher RPM might help.
  14. budget

    I would go with the Asrock or Asus boards, with purple lighting they are going to reflect a good bit and glow nicely without looking too overbearing. As for your power supply, I know that the SeaSonic 520W is fully modular and usually retails for around $50 US. That is the only one I can think of off the top of my head, but I would opt for their 600 (or 620W what ever its capacity is) just for a little more headroom. Your build would probably pull around 350-450W at full load if you are planning to get a 580.
  15. You should try to get your front intake fan low enough on the case that it is blowing air towards the GPU intake fan.