quan289

I said "if there's something wrong" as a general statement. We are trying to figure out what's wrong right now. We know that the motherboard, CPU, RAM and PSU works at the repair shop when they tested it, so there shouldn't be anything wrong with those components. Your comment "When I flipped I/0 switch on power supply the Aorus logo led turned on for 1 second only" suggest you are adding something that is causing a protection built into the PSU to detect a problem and is cutting power to the system. The reason why I'm telling you to flip the switch off and on is after each test (unplugging modular cables, moving PSU out of case, etc) is so the protection can reset itself and start supplying power to the MB again. It's not a short cause by a standoff as it is on a MB box. It's not an issue of you forcing to plug in the wrong connectors, as the 4+4 pin EPS12V and 24 pin connector is plugged in correctly. The only thing I see that may cause a protection to go off on the DC side is the two modular connector you have plugged in and whatever component that is plugged into it.

It's a good budget unit. Whether or not it will be a "nah", will depend on your system specification, the price of this S12III, and the price of other units that's available to you. Can you provide your specs, budget, and country you are from (if outside of the US, it may help to provide links to stores you can buy from)?

Out of those, the Cooler Master MWE White V2. It's the most modern design out of those three using a LLC+DC-DC.

Hmm...To eliminate the possibility of a short cause by a pinch cable or something, unplugged the modular cables. Only have the fixed 24-pin and 4+4 EPS12V connector plugged in. Also, be aware that you may need to switch the power switch off and then on again. If there's something wrong that is setting off the protection of the PSU, the PSU will cut power and latch off to protect itself.

@CutThe Corsair CV550 is an updated version of the VS to Bronze. Based on the specs, the Gigabyte not like the PB-650B which uses DC-DC (the CV650 is DC-DC as well), as specs on 12V suggest group regulated like the CV550. So they are both low-end, budget units, which I would get the Corsair CV. In the $75 price point though, I would recommend the CX550 instead: https://www.newegg.com/corsair-cx-series-cx550-550w/p/N82E16817139202 Or the 450 version, as that would be more than plenty.

Depending on when you'd purchased your Focus Gold, the issues should have been fix. Spending more than what you need. Efficiency at idle / low power draw may be worse. Some people may sacrifice quality for a higher wattage unit (getting an EVGA 600 W1 instead of a Corsair CX450 when they are in the same price point). Lack of research can cause someone end up getting a louder PSU (higher wattage unit may require more powerful fan which can have a negative impact on the units overall noise profile; e.g. EVGA Supernova 550 G3 -> 850 G3). In your case, the first two points I've made is relevant to you.

The PowerSpec 650w Gold unit is a HB LLC + DC-DC design based on the Sirfa / High Power Astro Lite platform. Since you already got it, I say you will be fine to continue using it.

Chances are you will end up looking at the Seasonic Focus 850 Gold. If your G3 reach the point that the noise level had made you change power supply, then don't get the Seasonic. I'd go for the Corsair RM750x / RM850x in that case that's in the same price point (assuming you are from the US) https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rmx-series-rm750x-cp-9020179-na-750w/p/N82E16817139233 https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair-rmx-series-850w-atx12v-2-4-eps12v-2-92-80-plus-gold-modular-power-supply-black/6229601.p?skuId=6229601 The SuperFlower Leadex III 750 is also a fine choice if you are looking for something more affordable. https://www.newegg.com/super-flower-leadex-iii-sf-750f14hg-750w/p/1HU-024C-00006 Edit: But like I said, get the 3080 first and try it out before you spend your money on something.

Your PSU is a good continuous rated 650w PSU. It should be able to handle the peak transient loads of the 3080 with your i7 8700k especially at stock. And of course, as load goes up, the fan may ramp up to cool it down. Now if it turns out that your EVGA 650 G3 is on the noisier side for you (some people may find it to be on the loud side at moderate to high loads), then you could look at investing in another PSU other than the G3. Higher wattage units runs hotter at full load and may require a more power fan, in which can change the entire noise profile and making it louder overall. In fact, the EVGA 850 G3 had been tested to be louder at 150w load than the 650w model at 100% load @ 30C ambient room temperature. If you end up getting a new PSU, something along the lines of Corsair RMx, BeQuiet Straight Power 11, Bitfenix Whisper M, Fractal Design Ion+ Platinum, etc.

You already got the EVGA 650 G3, I'd say just try it out as it is a good, high-end unit.

Let's say your PC needs 325wDC load. On a 650w Bronze PSU, in order to supply 325wDC, it will need to draw 382.35wAC from the wall. 325 / 0.85 = ~382.35 On a Gold unit, it will draw 366.11wAC. So a gold unit would produce less heat and save you a bit on your electricity bill. Now there's a ways to improved efficiency that aren't necessarily would consider to be "better quality". Like a PSU can have shorter cables and no modularity. They could also used an "Active Clamp Reset Forward" as it primary topology which is often used to improved efficiency in budget units; however, the topology inherently exhibit higher ripple that the secondary caps needs to deal with, doesn't handle transient loads very well, and if you used a group-regulated design, it will yield poor voltage regulation across its load range. This is why I have no problem using an old Antec Signature 650w (bronze unit) over a Antec Earthwatt 650w Platinum.

I've made a post about this a few days ago "It's the NTC bypass relay. The NTC thermistor is there to protect the PSU from the initial inrush currents during startup. Afterward, a relay may be used to switch on and bypass the thermistor which allows it to cool down and improved efficiency (mostly this). This click is just the relay engaging and disengaging." Your FD Ion+ Platinum does have this relay.

The voltage rails of a power supply (12V, 5V, 3.3V). In this case, we are talking about the 12V and how it is configured. Single Rail : EVGA 1000 G+ has 83.3A on 12V Multirail : BeQuiet Straight Power 11 850w has a 12V rating of 70.8A combined that is split up into four 12V circuit. Think of this something similar to a circuit / fuse box inside of your home.

Despite your current predicament, your Seasonic Focus Gold 850w is a superior unit to the EVGA 600B. Not only that, I don't recommend using a group-regulated design like the 600B to power a high-end GPU like the 2080 Super. You should contact Seasonic to RMA your PSU. @Seasonic Rep may be able to assist you with that and answer any question you may have. As for warranty, you can see all of Seasonic current PSUs warranty here.

There are some power supply that allows you to switch between multi-rail and single rail for those who want the convenience of a single rail or the added protection of a multirail. Power supplies like the Corsair AXi / HXi / RMi / HX / etc, BeQuiet Dark Power Pro 10 / 11 / 12, etc.

It's the NTC bypass relay. The NTC thermistor is there to protect the PSU from the initial inrush currents during startup. Afterward, a relay may be used to switch on and bypass the thermistor which allows it to cool down and improved efficiency (mostly this). This click is just the relay engaging and disengaging. To confirm that your PSU has this relay, here's a review on your PSU: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/be-quiet-straight-power-11-650w-platinum-power-supply-review Under the Component Analysis section and next to Inrush Protection: "NTC Thermistor (SCK-056) & Relay"

I'm not. The FSP Aurum based NEX*50G / G1 is based on the ACRF topology + group-regulation. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/evga-nex750g/4.html "On the primary side, we meet an Active Clamp Reset Forward (ACRF) topology in which two mosfets are used" And yes, the G+ is based on the same FSP platform as the Pure Power 10, if I'm not mistaken, which indeed uses ACRF and DC-DC.

The 650G1 is based on a budget oriented FSP Aurum platform. With a high-end card like the 3080, I would get a high-end 650w or above. The G1, while offer good efficiency, it's a poor performer electrically (voltage regulation, transient load response) due to the inherit nature of ACRF and group-regulation that this platform is based on.

Your XFX Pro 650 is based on a Seasonic AT / AM platform. It's was a good mainstream unit back then. If you have the RM750i though, I recommend using it, as it is indeed a superior, high-end unit. The short circuit protection had work as intended so don't worry. Edit: btw, the bronze rated XFX Pro / Core and XXX edition are both Seasonic AT (non modular) / AM (modular).

When you have a power supply that you can essentially takes the three main voltages and add them together to get the rated wattage, it's trash. (3.3*15)+(12*25)+(12*25)+(5*20)=749.5w A properly rated PSU will not have their rails added up in such a way.

It's a bait and switch. This mean they initially send a PSU that can do full 100-240V input range, but the retail model is a different unit from what they had tested. The MPVU750 is a 200-240V PSU, but it is listed in 115V internal on 2012. Ecova only tested desktop PSUs at 115V back then. It wasn't until 2014 that the 230V EU certification started.

Efficiency rating should not be used as an indication for an unit quality. In fact, a good quality 750w typically have at least four 6/8pin PEG connectors. Hell, when I still had it, my Kingwin LZP-550 had four of them. 6+2 pin PEG can function as both a 6-pin or an 8-pin. However, I recommend getting a different power supply. Tacens has a history of doing the switch and bait, where they take one unit, send it to Ecova to have it tested for 80 Plus certification, got a 80 Plus Silver rating, and then sold a completely different unit made by a different OEM while still using that Silver badge.

I believe this case doesn't have a reset switch. What replaced it is a RGB control button, which I believe those wires you are seeing is for

You are talking about the G1 or G1+? IIRC, the original FSP made NEX650 G1 were not compatible with any other Super Flower and Seasonic made units. Edit: When EVGA first started to sell PSUs a few years back, they didn't make their pinout compatible across units made by different OEMs, and the G1 was among their first PSU lineup But the newer FSP made G1+ were made to be compatible with current Super Flower made unit.

In order to get correct voltage reading, you want to used a digital multimeter. Voltage reading from software like HWMonitor, HWINFO AIDA, etc. can largely be inaccurate. Plus if the +5V is at 1V, it would have set off the under voltage protection of your RM850x and shut off