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VioDuskar

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Posts posted by VioDuskar


  1. future performance depends on the game, and how it is optimized, as well as the drivers from nvidia. 

    this is always a question that will be answered with "wait and see" 

     

    anytime someone asks "will my PC be able to do/play this in the future" 

    the answer will always be "wait and see" 


  2. 16 minutes ago, Katarn said:

     

     

    - How is its compatibility with Windows? I don't mind using DS4Windows. This will obviously be a determining factor. For that price-range, I would like a controller that does not give me trouble with modern games (Gears of War, Halo MCC, Crysis 3, Mankind Divided, Sekiro, The Witcher 3...)

    - Can I use it to emulate the mouse and keyboard functions on the Desktop? This is also a determining factor, it can be with Xpadder or alternative software; as long as it can imitate mouse and keyboard functions.

    - How is the track-pad when used in lieu of a mouse? This could be very beneficial and could easily justify the price if it means I can be far away from my desk and still operate the mouse.

    - Is the gyroscope good and viable? This might be an interesting feature for which I could see myself paying the extra cash.

     

    A few followup questions would be:

    - Is it worth paying double the money I would give for a Logitech F310 if I were to wait a few weeks?

    - What is its quality, feel, and performance compared to an Xbox 1 Controller?

     

     

    I use this regularly because the Xbox controller feels big in my small hands. 

     

    It uses bluetooth, so if you need it for online multiplayer i don't suggest it. but, in PC gaming no controller is good for PvP games. 

    It uses bluetooth, so no need for a xbox or third party dongle. it works. 

     

    it does require DS4, but that's actually kind of nice, as it lets you remap buttons. (i flip my L/R1 with my L/R2 for better triggers.)

    the track pad works fine.  a light tap is a single click, a hard press is a right click. 

     

    I have not used the gyroscope. I cannot attest to it's usage. 

     

    it's a good value for money if you're used to playing with a DS4 controller. 

    quality is fine, but i think all of the console controllers have mushy buttons. even xbox. 


  3. 3 minutes ago, EmoRarity said:

    Koss is sorta famous for that, doesn't mean they are bad, just means there is better. Sorta like a ford truck. And i hope you have your garter belt on, because this'll blow your socks off. You can use that software on any headphone, most games already have it built in too.

    my socks are still on. I'm also aware of this, but some headphones just do it way better than others.

    my logitech g933s did a really good job of it over USB wireless, but the pairing on them sucks and they're 3 ticks away from useless if used with a 3.5mm cable. 

     

    i've got a pair of skullcrusher wireless headphones by skullcandy and i'm seeing reviews say they fit decently over the halo. might give them a try. 


  4. 8 minutes ago, BobVonBob said:

    - "Simulated 5.1 and 7.1" are both marketing nonsense, they've still only got 2 drivers -

    I know this, hence I say "Simulated" the actual products market themselves as 5.1 and 7.1 but we all know there aren't 5 or 7 woofers and a subwoofer packed in there. 

    but the use of a good driver and supporting software help simulate the surround sound feeling. 

     

    I'm all for bang for buck, but Koss seems kinda... cheap?


  5. I've got an Oculus Rift S coming next week and i've heard that the Audio is.... less than immersive? 
    That being said, does anyone have any suggestions for headphones that they know fits will over the "Halo" band? 
     

    I've used the old Rift and think the built in headphones were acceptable. I don't need it to be super loud, i prefer good clarity and 5.1 or 7.1 simulated sound for a more immersive experience in VR. 

    i've heard that simply using earbuds and plugging them in to the headset or via bluetooth is an easy option, but i don't think it will quite simulate the "surround" feel of the audio properly. 

     

    TL,DR; got a Rift S, need good surround sound headphone suggestions.


  6. 8 hours ago, dogwitch said:

    i got some ssd on a bundle deal for way under cost and both the m.2 and 1 of the ssd was prev build.

    like i stated cabling etc atm is in the mail. so i used what i have  to test everything.

     with the sdd their both ingess and a back up of it.

     

    why i said stealth build was. i been getting parts here and their. on top of doing a upgrade   to from my current rig.

    its been  no rush build.

     

    i wouldn't call that "stealth" i would all it "long game sum" or "the compiled mountain"

     

    "stealth" is a full blackout no RGB

    "stealth" is premium parts packed into a old windows95 tower

    "stealth" is a mini ITX build that's super high performance and portable 

     

    this is just a workstation beast. 


  7. Just now, SavageNeo said:

    I like how you overpayed when you bought 3 soliddrives. for those prices you could have bought 2 tb m.2 pci e gen 4 ssd

    i assumed a lot of those drives were brought over from previous builds. like those ketchup and mustard sata cables. 


  8. 6 minutes ago, GenericFanboy said:

    Alrighty hi, Been dead for like.. 2 months. Mostly because i usually only go on LTT while i'm at work. But you know. Kinda cant anymore so..

     

    -snip-

     

    Edit: 420th post lol

    if you're getting a great deal on it maybe. 

     

    upgrades are stressful because they cost hard earned money and require tough decisions to navigate "skill tree" of hardware


  9. Just now, Leach said:

    Im not quite sure what the stock timings and the stock frequency even is for these sticks, usually it’s supposed to be on the sticker for my memory, but it isn’t sadly. I don’t even want to overlock it, I just want it to run at the advertised rates.

    do you have the partnumber for it? if not you should be able to find it in BIOS. look up the partnumber and find the stock timings, then set everything to stock manually. 


  10. Just now, Benny7284 said:

    I'm gonna need another Mobo for the 10th gen processor right? or no? This kinda confused me now.. I'm not sure the one I chose supports it

    yeah you might. intel likes to change chipset support every generation to make you buy a new motherboard. at least they've held on to the current socket for a while. not that it matters if you require a new chipset. 


  11. 6 minutes ago, Benny7284 said:

    I got it all now, nice and clear! :) 

    The Intel M.2 I chose isn't a SATA M.2 btw so I think I'm good on that. As far as the Mobo goes you're right. I know it's a budget one but I don't need anything more than what it already offers. 

     

    follow my link the sabrent is cheaper and offers more IOPs than that intel. 
    do a compare on newegg. plus the sabrent uses TLC instead of QLC, which is generally more preferable due to it's longer life 

     

       

                                           Sabrent                            Intel  

    4K random read:    Up to 350,000 IOPS         Up to 90,000 IOP
    4K random Write:   Up to 450,000 IOPS         Up to 220,000 IOPS                                            
     


  12. 8 minutes ago, Leach said:

    What exactly does that mean, what would I enter into the frequency and timing table?

    i'd enter the timings that your sticks show at stock, and freq to stock, then bump frequency incrementally as needed. 

    user beware, overvolt if you dare. (as a noob don't overvolt)

     

     


  13. 2 minutes ago, Benny7284 said:

    I'll probably go for the 9700K if I decide to go the integrated GPU route. Btw is there any info when the next gen Intel is coming out and do you think it's worth the extra bucks to skip the current 9th gen?

    10th gen is releasing like right now

    spec are already up on intel ARK. laptops are already shipping with mobile 10th gen cores. 


  14. 1 minute ago, Benny7284 said:

    I thought it would hurt the system in some way considering that the GPU is severely less powerful then the CPU, but you're right I guess (It's my first build so I'm still not sure about how stuff works).

    And wow! That is also a very smart option to go that I didn't think about, might go for a K model instead and just use the integrated GPU.

    Thank you so much for the advice.  

    A GPU gets it's instructions from the CPU, so the CPU can't be slowed down by a GPU. 
    a CPU can however be slowed down by a slow HDD, or slow RAM. 

    going with an NVMe m.2 is a great choice, just make sure your m.2 isn't a SATA one. 

    try this instead of the intel one: 
    https://www.newegg.com/sabrent-rocket-nvme-512gb/p/0D9-00JJ-00001

     

    you should put the extra money into your motherboard if you want more features. I find a lot of people want Wifi and USB-C now and the board you picked is pretty..... "budget"

    you can always get a better GPU if you plan on gaming or doing video editing later. 

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