Robin88

f you're following the guide correctly can you try booting the Mac up without the flash drive plugged in and hold down the Option/Alt key until you get the boot device screen, and then plug the flash drive into the Mac, sometimes Macs can be really odd about flash drives and will only detect a flash drive if it was plugged in after the Mac was switched on.

I don't know if you've already tried this, but could you go to Control Panel->Appearance & Personalisation->Display and check the box marked "Let me choose one scaling level for all my displays" and then use the slider above to set your scaling level and see if that fixes it. I apologise if you've already tried this, but it's worth trying the simple stuff first btw, I agree with you totally on waiting for the issues to be ironed out in Windows 10, just because it works for some people doesn't mean that there won't be issues for others, and while I have reserved a copy of it, I won't be installing it straight away.

Yeah, it'll work fine, it only mentions about the voltage because some laptops and some mobile devices don't output 5V properly when on battery power. But if it doesn't work then you can always send it back and get a refund as long as you buy it from Amazon, they're awesome with their returns policy.

Good lord you lot are arseholes, if you're going to post, then at least make your posts helpful, this is embarrassing, if you cannot be bothered to guide someone from beginning to end then don't post and keep out of the Troubleshooting section. @GER_T4IGA To change your pagefile could you follow this guide please, make sure you save all your work before you start. 1. Left click on the Start orb and right click on "Computer" 2. In the drop down menu can you left click on "Properties" 3. In the window that opens can you go to the left hand side and left click on "Advanced System Settings" 4. In the new window that opens can you left click on "Performance" 5. In the next window can you left click on the tab called "Advanced" and click on the option titled "Change" 6. In this last window can you check the box at the top that says "Automatically manage paging file for all drives" and the click on "OK" 7. Click on "OK" in the next window and a popup may appear that tells you that you will need to reboot for changes to take affect, with the options "Reboot Now" and "Reboot Later", click on "Reboot Now" and your computer will restart. Please note that the above will take up quite a bit more space on your boot drive than it used to, but it will make sure that you won't run into issues as much as you used to. I sincerely apologise for the less than helpful comments you've had from others, not everyone is like that. Just as an aside, when you're asking for help can you try to write down exactly what error messages you get and can you put your system specs into your signature as well, along with more detailed descriptions of what you've already tried and any changes you've made, it will make it easier to determine what has gone wrong, cheers. If you still have issues then let us know and we'll try to help.

It's great and all having a 4TB SSHD Blue, but why don't they have a 2 and 3TB Blue? They only have their Reds and Greens at that capacity, Greens are too slow for most stuff, and Reds are too expensive for most people, so having a 2TB and 3TB Blue would be ideal and would slot right between the Green and Red lines. Also SSHD's with only 8GB of Flash is quite crap tbh, it isn't enough to hold the OS, and isn't enough to hold the majority of software that would benefit from the Flash storage, and if you don't use the same programs all the time you'll never benefit from the Flash storage it has. I'd rather WD had a 2TB Blue with at least 16GB of Flash on board, but better would be 32GB, it would be enough for the OS plus your most commonly used applications which benefits from Flash storage and if you use a lot of different applications you'll still feel the benefit of the on board Flash. I get the 1TB version laptop version, that's better but still sucks with the paltry amount of Flash, it just isn't enough.

Yeah I know, I didn't do the math and couldn't really be arsed to double check, my bad ^__^ I really shouldn't comment when I'm tired, my brain ends up farting

I'm not a fan of his at all, his content is not geared towards me in any way, but I am super happy for him, he's made a success from something that most people said was a dead end and he continues to grow in popularity. I get why people don't like him, but you don't have to be an asshole about it, PewDiePie as a character is obnoxious, loud and annoying, but Felix as a person comes across as a pleasant and genuinely nice person and he deserves the success he's gained. I don't think he deserves to be compared to Justin "Penis features" Beiber, because Justin is an all out dick, a horrible brat who deserves a punch to the throat, but PewDiePie is a character, a personality and is not representative of the person portaying him and some of you could do with remembering that before wishing ill health on him simply because he made a success from something that doesn't appeal to you.

There was a series of lawsuits back in the early 2000's because of this, WD, Seagate and Hitachi I believe were sued due to misrepresenting storage space on HDD's, and ever since then HDD manufacturers and Flash storage manufacturers have stated on their packaging that 1GB is equal to 1billion Bytes using the Base10 counting system and stipulate that OS's measure it differently and that some space is lost due to formatting, which while not technically untrue, it does allow them to sell you far less than you pay for. In fact if you use a HDD in OS X you'll see that it measures storage in Base10, meaning that a 1TB HDD is 1trillion Bytes, whereas Windows reports it in Base2 which would make it 1.024trillion Bytes, but because the HDD manufacturer only makes a 1TB HDD 1trillion Bytes in size it results in the 980GB you see, which results in OS X reporting the claimed storage as correct when Windows doesn't, even though Windows is also correct. It's super confusing for those who don't know that computers count in Base2 instead of how humans count, which is Base10 and they still think they're being short changed when technically they aren't.

The problem with AMD for me is that they focused on the low end almost exclusively, and that's great and all assuming that your competitor doesn't try to get into the same market, but AMD forgot that Intel wishes to get into the mobile space, and the only way in is to go through AMD by getting power consumption down and performance up at the low end and destroying AMD's market share. Another thing that hurt AMD is public perception, if you have the most badass flagship part that is miles ahead of your competition, then that will trickle down into increased sales of your low end parts, if you're seen to have the better equipment at the high end, people will assume that means that everything you sell is better, regardless of facts. But AMD for far too long has focused on the low end and on price per dollar instead of focusing on the areas where it matters, the high end enthusiast and server/workstation markets, if you're king there, you're king everywhere. Sure the 390 beats out the 970, and the Fury X trades blows with the 980Ti but who cares, nVidia has the Titan X, and sure AMD has the 9590 for less than the price of a mainstream i7, but who cares when Intel has the 5960X? AMD has it's Opteron lineup, but who would buy one when Intel has it's Xeon E5 and E7 range. AMD needs to keep selling APU's no doubt, they're good value and perform extremely well compared to the competition, and the only way Intel can compete is with a part that costs more than 2x the cost of AMD's flagship APU's, but they desperately need Zen and if it fails to blow away Intel and only trades blows with an i7 instead of outright beating it then AMD are in trouble and nothing will save them except a buyout. I'm seriously considering an R9 390 though as my next upgrade, I don't need 4K right now and it performs better than a 970 for a not insignificant amount cheaper, and if Zen is better than at least a 5820K then I'm gonna upgrade to that when it's released, but if it only competes with a i7 5775C then Intel will get my money, I need more performance than I currently have now, and I want to support AMD, but only if they offer a tangible increase in performance compared to my current setup.

Try reinstalling the software and then uninstalling afterwards, it may be a file was corrupted or damaged at some point and the uninstaller needs it to uninstall the software.

Here's hoping you don't get any more BSOD's, and I generally try to avoid using driver discs because by the time you get any device the drivers stored on the included discs are massively out of date, the only time I will ever use them is if I have no connection via WiFi or Ethernet, in which case I will install just the networking drivers for just long enough to get the updated ones off the website. And you're welcome, that's what we're here for, to help those who need it, if you have any more problems then just ask.

Don't worry, Windows 7 Pro OEM is fine, I use the Home Premium OEM version and have been for over 4 years and two seperate builds now, but I have to wonder where you got it from, as far as I know you can't buy Windows 7 brand new any more, so I would be cautious as to whether it's genuine or not or whether it's been used already or not. You'll probably be fine, just be wary of it being genuine. Edit: Like @Kevin_Walter said, it's fine, you'll get a product key and a normal install disk, and it'll install like any other version of Windows would.

I can only speak for my own personal experiences, but I would personally stick with Windows Defender (Which is basically Microsoft Security Essentials and is built right into Windows 8 and 8.1) and use MalwareBytes every month or so just to double check, and as others have said always use common sense and you shouldn't really have a problem, I've been running this way for about 5 years and not had a problem, but you can try Avast if you prefer, just remember it can be quite obnoxious and have loads of false positives and even more false negatives and has a history of flagging vital system files as malware and borking Windows completely.

You're welcome and good luck, here's hoping Seagate continue to be reliable for you.

Toshiba aren't a bad manufacturer of HDD's afaik so I'd probably grab a 2TB Toshiba drive, but the price for a 2TB Seagate isn't bad either, that works out at about £53 which is dirt cheap, if you can stretch to one of those then I'd grab one of them. I wouldn't bother with the WD Green series even if you were thinking of getting one, which you aren't, they're ok for movie and photo and music storage, but they're quite slow for games and small file transfers, so I'd get a Seagate or Toshiba drive.

Could you check it at full load please? Run something like Unigine Heaven or Valley to check, although tbh it doesn't sound like it would be overheating, but without the full load numbers it's difficult to tell. 45C is fine at idle btw, in fact for a laptop those are great numbers, but it's at full load we need to check.

I've had the opposite experience, every drive I've ever had has worked for so long that I only stopped using it because the space it offered wasn't enough, the only drive I retired because it was failing was a 40GB Maxtor HDD about 3 months ago, and that drive was well over 12 years old by that point and had far outlived its useful lifespan. If I was you I would go for a 2TB drive, they aren't that much more expensive now and it'll last you far longer in regards to usable space than a 1TB drive would, but that's up to you, if you think 1TB is enough and it's all you can afford then that's fine, but if you can afford it then go for it, you'll have more space for games in the future. And you're welcome, I just hope nothing has been corrupted by the drive failing.

Can you try updating your ethernet drivers please? It looks like at least one of your BSOD's was caused by AFD.sys, which is to do with netwoking, but also make sure that all other drivers are up to date as well, most importantly your chipset drivers, as the rest of your BSOD's were possibly caused by ACPIPAGR.sys. Let us know if you keep getting BSOD's and we'll try and figure out the cause for you.

Did you use the driver disc? If you did then that would be why the drivers are out of date. Edit: I've just rechecked the BSOD files, and could you update your bluetooth drivers as well please, the file causing some of the BSOD's is btmhsf.sys. If there are no updated drivers or you can't find them anywhere then try disabling your bluetooth adapter in device manager.

As long as the folder structure and the file names were exactly the same and as long as you gave the new drive the same drive letter as before then yes it would work exactly the same, Windows doesn't really care what the drive type is, as long as everything is in the correct place. It doesn't really mean anything that your older drive has lasted longer than the newer one, drives will fail at random times and some will last 20+ years while the next drive in the same batch in the production line might not last a week, HDD's are nortorious for their fickle nature, and even Seagate has had its fair share of unreliable drives, their 1.5TB models were particularly bad, but it doesn't mean that WD or Seagate are bad manufacturers, the reliability difference between Seagate and WD is less than 0.1% and their overall reliability numbers are something like 2 or 3%, it's just that HDD's are incredibly fragile and even the slightest thing can ruin them. I'm sorry to say that about your HDD going bad, but at least you caught it now and not after it failed and there's no chance of getting your files back.

Usually you make a bootable flash drive with a copy of FreeDOS or MS-DOS on it and run the flash utility that way, but there is usually a built in utility in the BIOS to flash it, which is even more reliable but still has its risks. Sometimes though OEMs like HP only supply BIOS updates as a Windows utility and you can only flash it that way, and I guess that it's the same for you, in which I case I strongly recommend you aviod flashing the BIOS as much as possible, you got away with it this time but it'll fail eventually and you'll brick your device and there's no fixing it. As a last resort can you download GPU-z and check the temperatues of the GPU please? I'm not convinced it's the GPU, but I've been wrong before and I could very well be wrong now, so check the GPU and let us know. Cheers And you're very much welcome, it's a shame we can't really offer a real fix for you, but at least we've narrowed down what might be causing it.

Just as I feared, your HDD is dying and there's nothing you can do about it, pull everything off that drive ASAP and get a new one. The uncorrectable sector count means that some portions of the disk platters are unable to be read and it has to keep checking those sectors at least 20 times before it flags them as damaged, which is why the transfers are happening so slowly, because it has to stop and recheck a sector before it can move on, but that also means that the drive is dying and that at any point in the near future the drive will simply stop working. It is unfixable, and all you can do is get the data off the drive as quickly as you can and then replace it. You might be able to run it for a while, but the longer you leave getting a new one, the more likely the drive is to fail, and I strongly recommend you get a new one as quickly as you can if you value what is on that drive.

PROCHOT is being triggered? That's very odd, at those low temperatures it should not be triggered and certainly should not be on constantly. I would definitely try a BIOS update if there is one, just don't use Windows based BIOS flashing tools please. PROCHOT is a CPU protection mechanism that when the CPU reaches a certain temperature as set by Intel, will cause the CPU to immediately step the clock speeds down to it's lowest value and drop the voltage down as well, but the way your computer is acting is as though it's permanently on, and it shouldn't do that, PROCHOT stands for Processor Hot, and should disable once temperatures have dropped to a reasonable level, but in your case it sounds like there's a bug in the BIOS and is causing PROCHOT to be constantly enabled.

There are 2 versions of the headset, which version do you have? There's the one for console and PC, and there's the one for PC & Mobile, if you have the one for console then the driver apparently doesn't work on it. It's a bit confusing tbh, because the console version works on PC, but doesn't need a driver when used on PC, and the PC version does have a driver but also works on mobile devices and I'm having a bit of a hard time figuring out why that would be. If you have the PC & Mobile version then you'll just have to go without the driver as far as I can tell, but if you have the console version then you're probably stuck for using the driver, and because you've managed to use it thus far without the driver I would say to keep on using it as you have been and not worry about it.

Can you go back to the SMART results and read out what is giving the caution please? It could be that your computer is having to run error correction on the files because of the HDD going bad and that's what is causing the slowdowns. I'm amazed at just how many people in this thread have never heard of Samsungs Rapid mode and that they think that there is something wrong with the benchmark or the SSD, like seriously, you're all supposed to be enthusiasts that know about these things. Your read speeds were really low according to task manager when you were copying the game files, it should not be that low and that's why I think that your HDD going bad is the issue.