Hans Christian | Teri

Plus one, really doesn't get better than this at that price point.

Guys, this is posted in the power supplies subforum, typo or not, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out what is being asked.

Honestly any PSU of the non-explosive variety will be more than fine. I would personally spent just a tiny bit more and get something like a Corsair RM750, even if you do need less than 400W to run your proposed system, as it will last you a couple of builds (and most importantly, not explode on you).

That's exactly why they're saying it, and with good reason. This madness has to stop somewhere, and it's clearly no longer a demand issue.

No clue who this guy is, no clue why he is hating on the QcK. Been using a QcK Heavy for 10+ years and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it, plus QcK's are in stock everywhere.

As for mice, the Logitech Lightspeed (wireless) mice are all pretty good. A whole lot of people love the G502, I personally went with the G903 since it's ambidextrous and I'm a lefty (and I love it). As for the keyboard I'd stay wired for now. You say that you like the MBP 2013 keyboard (which I understand, I didn't swap out my 2013 MBPr until it died in August 2019, lovely thing), but do you prefer a laptop style low-profile keyboard or regular full-travel desktop switches? If the latter, Kailh, Gateron and most of the other Cherry-style copies are more than fine. The type of switch is a chapter and journey in itself. With a cardioid pattern condenser you probably want to stay away from blue switches, they are very noisy. If you like the tactile response that the MBP keyboard to some degree provides, I'd go with brown switches (which are also my favorite switches). They are both tactile and mostly silent. Black and red are both linear (and silent) and fine if you like that (with different actuation force). All of these switch types are available as a choice in almost every budget mechanical keyboard. There is a mountain of YouTube videos describing this much better than me though.

Then you should be more than fine. Hell, I probably wouldn't even run a separate box for that.

Depending on the size of your ambitions, an old 2600k or similar will do you well. The 2.5GHz of the e5420 just isn't enough. It's mostly about the single core performance, but I wouldn't go dual core though, the system still has other stuff to keep up with. Personally running a 2600k for an average 10 people online semi-vanilla server with very little to no hickups.

Which receiver are you using? First thought is obviously that your receiver isn't getting any signal for the rear speakers to play, and then obviously they're not going to play anything.

Eh, it is not in anyway feasible to bruteforce a bitlocker recovery password. If the attackers are in any way interested in the data and not just the ransom, they're going to go with option one or two. Option two seems like the most likely thing to happen as well, users are notoriously stupid (even the ones that aren't). It is obviously the job of a sysadmin to minimize the risk of this happening as well as minimizing the impact a compromised client can do. Sane e-mail policies are a good start (given that you have control over your companies email infrastructure).

The old Intel stock cooler is terrible, as in literally garbage.

Oh boy what I would give for everything to open on my main monitor. Anyways, have you tried the following: Move all the windows to where you want them to be Close all the windows Reboot

High GPU usage should definitely not make the system reboot. How are your temperatures?

What exactly are you trying to achieve with your build? Do you just want to play games and have fun?

I'd say that a 5-10% potential increase for spending less money is pretty significant.

Getting it with the header pre-soldered is a great choice, it took me quite a while before I was good with a soldering iron. It takes practice, and it is better to practice on less expensive components than your SBC. Electronics are a world of fun just waiting to be explored. My best advice is to start slow, start small and don't get thrown off if you fry something (I have more than a few Arduinos, ESP32s etc on my conscience).

Something that, even if you know what you're doing, potentially risks you breaking your CPU, and in any case voids your warranty. It will definitely increase the performance of your CPU though, that is if it still works after the procedure. A couple of a questions to get out of the way first though: 57C at idle sounds awfully high. Did you install the cooler correctly? (Thermal paste, mounting etc) How are you stress testing? The temps of Cinebench surpassing a 100% all-core synthetic load is not likely. What case is your system living in? The fan configuration sounds less than ideal. I cannot stress this enough, do not delid your CPU without properly troubleshooting this all the way through first. You will most likely end up heartbroken.

Do you have a breadboard? If not definitely get one and some jumper cables, you'll need some resistors, LEDs etc as well to get started. If you have no experience I suggest starting out very simple following a blinking LED guide or similar, maybe putting your own spin on it once you've gotten it to work (like getting it to blink SOS in morse code or something similar). Take very good care when connecting stuff to the GPIO, it's a lot tougher on the wallet to fry a $14 Pi Zero than a $2 Arduino Uno.

How is your experience with electronics? Any Arduino / similar experience?

If you killed it, there's very little chance they'll accept the RMA. If there are other M.2 slots with the same performance, I'd say live with it.

It doesn't show up in Disk Management either?

Yes, absolutely. Which MSI motherboard is this?

You're basically gonna pay twice the price of the CPU for a compatible mITX board. For an HTPC I'd definitely go used, ie. a 4770K with an mITX board. Can usually be picked up for next to nothing, will be much better value and will do everything you need it to.

Aren't these just sleeved cable extensions? Am I missing something? It should be virtually impossible to connect them the wrong way.

I agree, sadly these ban waves have been common practice for 20 years give or take. It has always seemed like a very lazy approach.