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No, I use it on an F5 film slr, and it has it's own motor, so you're out of luck. Unfortunately the manual focus wheel on the lens is god-awful. It moves in and out while focusing and the wheel is super thin. P.S. I used an m42 lens on a Canon DSLR so the flange distance is different.

Some mirror less cameras are amazing. Check out Panasonic, Fuji, Sony and Olympus offerings. Many are under £400.

@Momas M42 lenses were designed for SLR. An M42 to Nikon adapter would not have ANY glass or plastic, just a metal mount. They're cheap too. P.S. The 2001 Nikon 28-80 f3.3-5.6 G is freakin' awesome for the price. It has AF and everything you would possibly need and is pin-sharp. I use it on multiple bodies w/adapters and it just might be my favorite all-purpose lens. You can get it on eBay for under $20. I know that's prob. not what you're looking for, but still. I'm quoting Ken Rockwell here: "It works ridiculously well, especially on my Nikon D3.Incredible means unbelievable. The performance of this lens is so good that no one will believe it possibly can come from a lens this cheap."

@dylan43270 It's definitely not M42 or T-Mount . Those are screw mounts. You have a bayonet mount lens, more specifically a Minolta SR Mount. This will work: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EDYIM6 EDIT: It will be manual focus and aperture only. Image quality prob. won't be that good from such an old lens.

tmclelland (or however you spell it) manages to pull off potato pics of a potato computer and still gets a ton of hype.

Definitely go with the barrel. It's super unique. I'd put illumination for the radioactive logo thing so it lights up. Where are you going to put the rads (how many rads too)?

The same thing happens to me sometimes. Maybe it's cause I post from OSX? EDIT: Nice build btw. Why 2 reservoir?

Yeah. Look up your specific model and then "overclock" and there will be thousands of results. If you know what your doing, you can play with the baseclock.

@DanWoodsPcMods Check this out! I know I'm not really supposed to link to other channels, but here ya go: He used an arc reactor. Doesn't light up though!

I like white pastel with red led. It will be a vibrant red, but it will pop more than the other way around. Here is a video screenshot that I found of a guy that used white pastel but with AMBIENT red light. If you used the lighting nodes, the effect would be more dramatic (and consistent): The wires are molex and pretty long. Molex can be adapted to anything though. You can get like 8 way molex hubs for cheap.

@kickasssloth The barbs are killing me. When you upgrade the cpu, please use compression fittings (Bitspower is nice). Other than that, clean build.

I like the cables both ways. Sound card looks sick too.

@brighttail IMO, white pastel fluid. Light the piping+waterblocks+fluid with red led's (use monsoon lighting nodes). Get rid of the ram coolers, get rid of all of the led fans. Boom. Amazing build with subtle red/white accents. Uv white fluid + uv light would be cool too. Edit: Paint/color the Dominator Platinum memory bars red. Then they light up red too.

Bloody Christmas cuz' you're Santa and it had a red theme!

I'd say it's worth it. I found one for 16 bucks. There damn quiet too (I put 2 in a friend's Node 304).

@Owndblood I know you are doing air cooling, but like a 480mm rad in the mesh area on the front of the radio would be sick. Nice photos too.

I like the coolant color (or the dirty water). Other than that, awesome build, I actually like the flex tubes here and the cable patterns are sick. Coloring the Dominator Plat's light bars red would be cool too (you can use a sharpie/highlighter). Nice photos too (coming from a pro photog.)

@JorksX Awesome!. A 360mm rad in that gap (where you have the liquid cooler right now) would be sweet for a liquid cooled build. Just touch up the paint on the front (you can also do accents on the glossy plastic part on the front too. If you have extra metal and bending tools, you can make a meal shroud for the front i/o (5.25 bay) wires or the psu/hdd area. Those things are just nitpicks though, awesome first mod.

Don't know if this counts, but I have a pre-production Apple PowerBook G4 from 1999. It still runs and has a better resolution screen than my 2011 MBP. Derp.

Very true, switched a friends pentium to an i5 and we had pretty bad problems before a driver update/install.

@BatmanBurton Do you know anybody that has a 1150 mobo you could try. If it boots in theirs, then it's something else. You can also try to reflash the bios in case something went wrong.

Excuse my grammar, I absolutely suck at it. Like really bad. AGH! I'm so torn about whether I like the 8 pin in front of the tubing or not! :unsure: If I was going to sit next to the computer regularly, then it would bug the crap out of me. But, it is also really unique and cool-looking (especially with those sexy tubing runs). IDK man. Anyways, I love the new cables (way better than the rainbow stock ones). I also like the way that all of the front of the cables is white and all of the back is black, instead of the usual patterned design.

You can take the electro magnet guts of the base, screw it from the bottom into the top of the case (psu side). Put the Iron-Man figure on top of the case and it will look like it is floating through the plastic. I hope you get what I am talking about!

@Snef White pastel fluid would look sick, or just clear water. Both would be awesome

It would be cool to have a 4-5 liter variant with a beefier psu, and a thick, high FPI twin 92mm rad in push pull. Then you could put short 980 (maybe Titan X) and have the bigger rad to cool it. I love the design of yours. Keep up the awesome work!