EmeraldFlame

As others have said defragging magnetic storage (HDDs) is still definitely something that improves performance, however is unnecessary for SSD's. However, it isn't as big of a deal as it once was. Windows 7 and newer automatically defrags HDDs in the background. It doesn't do the absolute best job, but it usually does a good enough job that it isn't worth the time or effort for most people to do a manual defrag.

What motherboard are you using? Most MoBo's today offer some type of built in fan control in the UEFI or a piece of software.

What AIO are you using? Nearly every AIO I have ever seen uses a standard 3 or 4 pin fan header, and with those pin 3 of the fan header should give you an RPM readout. Is your AIO plugged into the CPU header? Are any of the wires, specifically pin 3, damaged? Can you feel/hear the pump turn on or water moving?

I generally agree, it's pretty hard to tell the difference between FLAC and 320 MP3 in a lot of scenarios. However, if you have good headphones, you know exactly what to listen for, and you are relatively young, it's actually pretty easy. MP3's have reduced quality above 16kHz and at 320kbps they completely cut out any frequencies above 20.5kHz. So if you know to listen to the extreme highs, and you are young enough to actually still be able to hear those frequencies, it's relatively easy.

I stopped drinking pop about 4 years ago. I can almost guarantee the reason you are having trouble is caffeine addiction, and caffeine withdrawal can seriously suck. You may want to look for an alternate/healthier source of caffeine and then wean yourself off of that slowly. Personally, I just saw how unhealthy drinking 3-4 bottles of pop at college every day was and told myself no more and dealt with it. That doesn't work for some people though. While this is good advice, if you stop drinking pop for health reasons this is probably a bad idea. Most workout beverages are pretty high calorie, typically as high or higher than a bottle of pop. The exception being Powerade Zero which uses sucralose as a sweetener which is 0 calorie. Gatorade has a low calorie variant that uses artificial sweeteners too that is only like 20-30 calories a serving.

You sir/madam need Stardock Fences.

The NF-F12's are absolutely great fans that have high static pressure, moderate/high CFM, low noise, extremely low power draw, and great build quality. However there are alternatives, some other comparable fans are: BeQuiet! Silent Wings 2 Noise Blocker ELoops Noise Blocker BlackSilent Pro EK Vardar Gentle Typhoons (If you can find them) Plus a handful of others Each of these fans is not a drop in replacement for NF-F12's but they have equally great reputations. They all fill slightly different niches though. Some are higher CFM, others are higher pressure, some are a little quieter. All of them look a hell of a lot better. Just depends on what you need for your situation really. But you won't really go wrong with the NF-F12's they balanced really well to work in pretty much all situations.

Threw a response in for you, hope that helps you out. You had salary in GBP and I live in the US so I just used google's calculator to do the conversion on my USD salary to GBP, hope that's alright.

Glad to see you got it, but in the future you can pick up security torx bits at pretty much any hardware store. Or if you have normal torx bits and a drill press you can drill the security hole out yourself.

At current price points. No not really. An m.2 SSD on a mid-range system is going to eat up probably 1/3rd (or more) of your budget. While there definitely are benefits to m.2 drives, those benefits are going to be quickly outweighed by the negatives of having to get a lower end CPU and GPU to meet your budget. There are plenty of 2.5" SSDs that are affordable nowadays that are great for budget builds though.

In that case it will automatically detect you are using a Pro key and should give you the correct version.

Correct. Build 10565 added this feature to W10. Just make sure that when you make your W10 install media that you create media for the Pro version. Typically it would do in an place upgrade so your W8 key should be the one used to activate, unless you bought an outright copy of 8.1 in which case either key would work.

As long as you are using the current W10 build to make your install DVD/USB it will. The original retail W10 build that was put out didn't allow for it, but since then some of the updates have enable this. You can simply do a clean install and then type in your W7, 8 , or 8.1 key and it will activate.

I'm not sure if you are serious or making a poor attempt at a troll. In the off-case this is serious. You can't. A hard drives speed control is hard coded into it's on-board controller firmware. The only way it would be possible to do this would be to write a completely custom HDD firmware, and even then that would be ill-advised as you'd be operating outside the tested parameters of the drive. If you want faster storage, just go buy an SSD.

Looks like you just need to go down to that 'Delete Array' option then select the Raid 0. Make sure all your data is backed up because once you do delete it, you lose everything.

Sounds like you only pay for 6mbps upload speeds. Making your home network better isn't going to make your internet faster by itself, you have to pay for better service too.

Yup that will work absolutely fine too, I went the amazon route because I typically attempt to avoid recommending electrical and soldering work on here because it's hard to gauge people's abilities in that.

You will fry the switch. You're pushing 60% higher voltage than it is designed to run on, and I highly doubt that it has that much leeway on it's voltage acceptance. You could probably get away with 10% one way or the other, but not 60%. Just grab a cheap power brick, if you can't find a 7.5V 1A one, you can grab a universal on like this: http://www.amazon.com/ZOZO-Universal-Regulated-Replacement-Electronic/dp/B015PXUHYA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1455202124&sr=8-4&keywords=universal+ac+adapter

Just do some research on those and pay attention to the part numbers, there are both AHCI and NVMe variants of that drive.

I don't think that would work, even with GRUB on another drive, it's just the bootloader, it would immediately redirect all boot activities to the NVMe drive and you need UEFI/chipset support for that to work.

I'm fairly certain, but not 100% that it should work as a storage device, just not a bootable one. Also from doing a little bit of research it looks like some older boards/chipsets are getting UEFI/BIOS updates that have NVMe support. So you may want to check if there is an update out there, if you're still unsure I'm sure an email to Asrock's support can get things straightened out.

From what I can dig up, it's incompatible. NVMe wasn't really supported until the Z97 chipset. The C216 was based off the 70 series chipsets I believe so you'd be about 2 generations too old for NVMe support.

This is incorrect on multiple levels. On an SSD and OS with TRIM support (pretty much all of them at this point) deleting from the SSD will completely remove the file, not just the reference. Shortly after deletion the SSD will send commands to reset those sectors to their default state completely erasing the data, effectively achieving a 1 pass overwrite to those sectors. On the HDD, you really don't need to make multiple passes to completely wipe data. 1 Pass of all 1s, all 0s, or random data will completely wipe the drive, and if you are really paranoid 2 passes is more than enough. In fact Peter Guttman who originally did the research on secure deletion of magnetic media way back in 1996 has since modified his original paper to state as much. This is from Guttman's paper Secure Deletion of Data from Magnetic and Solid-State Memory Essentially after a single pass, the data will be practically unrecoverable. It's still technically possible, but you would need an amount of equipment and time that would likely go into the tens of millions of dollars. So unless you are storing your country's defense plans that you are worried about an extremely large and wealthy opposing government getting ahold of them, you really only need 1 pass. Also the assertion that 1 pass is good enough for SSDs but not enough for HDDs is wrong at a more fundamental level. The recovery techniques that work on HDDs can also work on SSDs as the research paper about it also states. It is modified a bit, but even after a single pass on an SSD data is still technically recoverable, but not practically. SSDs and HDDs do not differ in this. 1 Pass is enough for a consumer. Do a format, use CCleaner, Darik's Boot and Nuke, Parted Magic, whatever you have on hand, and that will properly wipe your SSD (TRIM support required for a basic format).

If you look at the raw value, it is actually at 0. 10 is probably the floor for that value on your drive for some reason. If there was something concerning anywhere than those dots would change to yellow or red instead of the typical blue.

That would be a perfectly fine setup. RAID 0 can be somewhat dangerous, but with you backing things up, you will be good to go and your data should be safe. I would make a couple suggestions though. Instead of putting the backup green drive internal, get an enclosure for it, keep it external, and when you aren't backing up to it, store it somewhere physically different, like a family member/friends house, a bank deposit box, etc. That way, if there was a disaster like a fire, flood, tornado, power surge, etc your backup doesn't get destroyed too. If that for some reason simply isn't an option, find a program like Macrium Reflect, or various other products that can automate your backup on a schedule just to take some of the burden off of you.