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Samfisher

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Everything posted by Samfisher

  1. Nvidia and AMD have both dropped support for Win 7 so the scenario is already very real and near.
  2. Funny LTT mentions G-Skill and shows their website, when there's no information on memory banks for any of their Trident Z Neo (didn't check others as this is what I have) sticks anywhere on the site.
  3. Mine just spits out an error (same thing when I tried it when Linus announced the bounty on WAN Show months ago). First M.2 slot on a x570 board, so that's direct CPU lanes. Bought at the end of 2019. I get the "error open disk" message no matter what drive I try to access this on. v0.24a OS: 10.0 build 19043 Drive : 4(NVME) This was from AIDA64
  4. You're not guaranteed anything aside from the max supported speeds of the IMC. That's all there is to is.
  5. After what seems like many long months in the desert of no fan control, I am back here to report that there is still only partial support for the Gigabyte Aorus X570 Pro Wifi, with only half the fan headers responding to FanControl. Unfortunate, as the compatibility issue is with a 3rd party library T_T
  6. As long as your FPS is within the VRR range you won't get tearing. Set your frame limit to 140 and that's it.
  7. SuperPosition and OCCT benchmark at the same time probably. But that would probably overwhelm the stock cooler, not sure.
  8. Turn off auto reboot during BSOD in your system settings. Anyway here's a screencap of your BSOD. WHEA Uncorrectable Error is a hardware error. Reset all your hardware, RAM, GPU etc and try again. Secondly, take a look at Blue Screen Explorer and see what the dump file actually says went wrong.
  9. G-Skill Trident Z Neo? Both examples above will both perform quite similarly if not the same.
  10. The RM750 is definitely the best of the bunch, if you can wait, and if it's within budget.
  11. Is it the MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk? If it is then it has a Flash BIOS button near where all the USB ports are, at the top. From the MSI manual (a side note, format your USB drive to FAT32, and use a 8GB or smaller drive, sometimes there's compatibility issues with bigger drives):
  12. It does sound weird, but contact Seasonic to see if you get a reply, otherwise RMA it.
  13. That has a Q-Flash button right on the mobo so you'll be fine. Download the latest BIOS for the board, extract ONLY the BIOS file into a FAT32 formatted USB drive. Connect the board to a PSU for power, insert the USB drive into the specific Q-Flash USB port on the mobo, then press the Q-Flash button and it will start updating the board. Be patient, it can take some time. Button is highlighted in red from this image I took from the board manual. The USB port you should be using for this is clearly listed as BIOS. It's the one with the white insert. I attached an image of that as well below.
  14. If it doesn't work, you'll definitely know hahaha. It won't destroy anything so no real worries there.
  15. You won' fry anything. Worst that will happen is it trips the PSU and the PC shuts down. Either way, separate PCIE cables are always the preferred way Enjoy your stay on the forum!
  16. No. Some motherboards have a physical button they can press that will update the BIOS with no hardware connected to it except the power. What CPU do you have in there now?
  17. That is indeed a big oof. Isn't Black Friday/Cyber Monday around the corner? Could get a deal then.
  18. Separate cables are always safer. Any reason other than cable management you want to go a single 6+2 that comes with a Y splitter?
  19. RTings has a pretty good monitor recommendation list and according to them the AOC CQ27G1 is the go to monitor for under $300, 1440p and 144hz on a VA panel. https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/gaming-monitors-under-300#recommendation_159400
  20. The PSU fans will be louder, but not louder than your GPU fan will be so it doesn't really matter. All you need to take not of now is if you get any coil whine. I don't have any on my 3080 system with a worse PSU than yours. Also that ASUS tech is hilarious. I have a power meter connected to the power socket of my PC, and I draw 500w at most full load.
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