KnightSirius

Not really knowledgeable in the 3D printing space but a quick Google search yielded some recommendations such as copper paste or just Arctic Silver 5 even though they dry up eventually. However, I came across one forum post that recommended this thermal paste that works up to 240C (They might have even higher temperature rated pastes but their site is horrendous to navigate). I also recalled from an LTT video graphite thermal pads, these could work depending on the application and they are good up until 400C!

He's mentioned on quite a few occasions in reviews and such that he listens to Top 40 Pop and if it wasn't mentioned many times across many videos I'd be inclined to say it was a joke but it'd be a long running one at this point if it was. I'd link a few videos but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to find if you look for his reviews of higher end gear.

That's a exceptionally terrible thermal compound... PSQ-1G - 1.3 W/(m·K) Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut - 12.5 W/(m·K) That's a massive difference, assuming the claims are true (Arctic Silver 5 didn't hold up to it's claim).

Refresh rate (Hz) and response time (ms) really don't have any relation to each other. It's simply 1ms vs 4ms. Personally I don't care for 1ms especially if it means I'm giving up the huge colour advantage that a IPS/10 bit panel has over a TN/8 bit. If you are not a top-level professional player where you need every advantage you can get the extra 3ms isn't really worth it. You'll be far happier having a display that looks significantly better than one that updates 3ms faster. As for the difference between 60Hz and 144+ it'll be night and day, and you won't be able to go back to 60.

Acer XB271HU - IPS + 10 Bit + 100% sRGB / 1440p / 165Hz @ 4ms / G-Sync Asus PG278QR - TN + 8 Bit + 100% sRGB / 1440p / 165Hz @ 1ms / G-Sync Dell S2716DGR - TN + 8 Bit + 99% sRGB / 1440p / 144Hz @ 1ms / G-Sync Listed out the important specs above and by far the Acer is the best of the ones you listed. It's not only an IPS display but a 10 Bit panel as well which is a huge step up from the 8 bit TN panels the other two have. Rest of the specs are pretty much the same except the dell doesn't overclock to 165Hz and the Acer response time is 4ms instead of 1ms which unless you're playing in like CS:GO tournaments you likely won't notice.

That is certainly relevant information, overclocking can shorten the life of the device if it's not cooled properly but I doubt it was overheating unless you were torturing it. Can't know for sure if it really contributed to it's failure and unless there is damage to the card itself from overheating which is pretty unlikely Gigabyte won't be able to tell either.

It's odd that it's acting up only after installing the SSD. You say you've reinstalled drivers and re-installed windows and tried integrated graphics etc... However, have you actually removed the GPU and reseated it and the power cables? I'd assume so, but figure I'd verify since you didn't mention it. There isn't much that can go wrong installing an SSD but things started going wrong after that so the GPU getting bumped and not making a perfect connection is the only obvious issue that could arise apart from actual damage. However, that said I've had cards just drop dead with no warning before so it's not unheard of. I'd say it's likely you'll have to RMA which your warranty should still cover.

I think I'll have to rescind my statement, at least for this price point. While my assumption was right that yeah you CAN get better headphones at this price point if you pair a ModMic with them this is mainly due to open designs being better. So in addition to the budget limit, requiring closed back changes things. I think you made a good choice on the Zeros with that in mind so I'd stick with them! You can always upgrade later too if you're finally able to get open-back if the noise situation changes, especially if you get the FiiO unit as that will run pretty much any headphone you can throw at it with few exceptions (HD800s probably won't sound great on it).

Really limited in choice, it's a tough price bracket for a decent DAC/AMP combo unit (You'll need an DAC/AMP unit to use your headphones). Only ones that come to mind are are: FiiO E10K - $75 USD (Pretty much the go-to budget/entry level AMP/DAC combo unit) Schiit Fulla - $99 USD (Alright unit but seems to be beaten by the FiiO and has some quality problems: Link 1 : Link 2 ) I'd personally go with the FiiO, Schiit makes some solid stuff but really only in the mid-high end category and even then there are usually better alternatives. As a sidenote in the future I'd recommend getting a ModMic to use with a pair of headphones rather than a 'gaming' marketed headset. You could have paired a ModMic at ~$50 with Sennheiser HD558s or even HD598s or DT990s if you got them on a sale for the same price as what you likely paid for the "Sennheiser Game Zero". You'd have ended up with a slightly better pair of headphones and a likely far superior microphone.

Did a bit of digging, and although this isn't the exact motherboard I found this FAQ answer on SuperMicro's site, stating that certain boards do have limitations and don't support processors above their stated max TDP. The VRMs are unable to handle the higher load. So definitely don't try it, it's just a disaster waiting to happen. As for an alternative I wasn't able to find another board, but I'm not used to navigating their site.

Well since you plan on using Premiere Pro (assuming based on your choice of Photoshop) then 32GB is the recommended amount of RAM for a 1080p workflow according to Puget Systems. They do a lot of testing on Adobe software so I trust their recommendations, of course as they state however this depends on your own workflow. Also this doesn't mean you can not work with 4K+ footage but just that you're not reaching peak efficiency.

Bit of a blanket statement seeing as we have no idea what applications OP will be using with this PC. IMO, If you have the cash to do 32GB now and you plan to be using any sort of program that can leverage that now or in the future then go for it (Professional software like 3D modelling programs, video editing, photoshop etc...). Upgrading is a bit of a pain when it comes to getting a good match for your original kit if it's years down the line, which for compatibility reasons is always recommended. As for your other questions: 1. As for the Corsair LL fans they require both the Corsair Lighting Node Pro and Corsair RGB Fan LED Hub otherwise the RGB on them won't work. Meaning they will also be controlled through Corsairs own software. 2. The included RGB kit with that case has it's own NZXT hardware installed in the case which you will plug into a USB header on your motherboard and will provide control through their software.

Hmm... That is very odd. So just to re-iterate: You are currently RMAing the Corsair AX1200i that normally runs the system and you replaced it with an EVGA 850w Gold unit in the meantime. All the sudden it is having random shutdowns. You disable OC settings and it still occurs. You returned the EVGA unit and got a Corsair 850w and the same problems occur. Usually when this occurs it's usually over current protection kicking in on either the PSU itself or the motherboard. If it's the motherboard it is because it is receiving (or thinking it is receiving) improper voltages and thus is shutting down to protect itself. It's odd that it only happens with new PSUs and your old one was fine... also it's pretty likely we can rule out PSUs being faulty since you have tried two different units. You could try to find settings in your BIOS related to over-current protection or anti-surge protection and try running the system with them disabled, It can happen that the motherboard is incorrectly reading voltages and thinking they are out of spec and thus triggering a false alarm to shut down the system. Although I'd leave that as a last resort as those protections are in place for a reason. Another thing to note and that we often overlook is where is your PC plugged in? Directly to the wall outlet? Running through a UPS? Plugging it in elsewhere for testing is a good idea if you haven't tried this already. If you're using a UPS it could be faulty, or on the flipside your wall outlet might be faulty, or your electricity might not be very clean and a pure sine wave UPS could be a solution (although unlikely unless you have REALLY temperamental electricity, which by now you'd already know). Just a few things that might be worth investigating...

What are you looking to achieve with this upgrade? Better Cooling? Lower Noise Levels? Both? Also specs of your system would be helpful, for example if your GPU is a blower style card that can change things quite a bit. As for your configuration I don't think installing all 7 fans is worth the money or noise, 2 intakes on the front and 1 rear exhaust is usually plenty (ignoring radiator). Although the side panel fans can be helpful for cooling your VRMs and your GPU I think installing 2 side panel fans provides little benefit over 1. Whichever route you go I'd recommend going with Noctua fans. Noctua Low Noise Radiator Fans: Noctua NF-F12 PWM Case Fans: Noctua NF-P12 If you don't give a damn about noise then these will push move a good amount of air. You can get a 3000rpm variant as well but that's a little overkill outside a server. You can also control them with PWM so they're not shrieking 24/7. Noctua High Airflow Radiator + Case: Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM I'd recommend a positive pressure configuration: 2 x front intakes, 2 x top intakes (radiator), 1 x side intake (Upper). 1 x Rear Exhaust. This will reduce dust build up immensely, not sure if it's the optimal configuration, you'd have to do some testing yourself and see. Also if you're interested in controlling the fans more accurately I'd recommend a Corsair Commander Pro it does a pretty good job even if the software is pretty garbage, just avoid iCUE and use LINK.

Depends what your budget is, only price I could find on that AOC 24V2Q was for $215. If your budget is ~$200 USD for a gaming monitor I'd recommend going with the Acer below unless an IPS panel is truly that important to you, I'd argue 144Hz is a bigger deal than an IPS panel and with FreeSync and your AMD card you'll really take advantage of it. AOC 24V2Q ($216 USD) - IPS / 1080p / 75Hz / FreeSync Acer XFA240 ($200 USD) - TN / 1080p / 144Hz / FreeSync

A picture of this bent pin(s) on the board would be the only way we'll be able to give you any useful advice as we can't be sure what you are talking about otherwise.

Well that sucks, as for testing it with that PSU.... I can't confidently say it'd be fine to test with an 8+6 so I'd say no unless you have an adapter for 6Pin to 8Pin, but perhaps somebody else knows better. Worst case if you want to test you could go pull out the card and test just the CPU but that's not a very helpful test because it's ignoring a huge component. I'd try to get a 6 to 8 Pin adapter, they should be pretty cheap when compared to getting a whole new PSU for testing.

Definitely good point to bring up, although at a budget of >600 USD i'st hard to recommend an ultrawide unless you are dead set on getting one, having experienced it before. Only remotely comparable ultrawide I can find is this Acer Predator, which is a pretty low resolution display not to mention jumping back down to a TN panel and that's 80$ overbudget. Acer Predator Z35 ($680) TN Panel / 2560x1080 / 144Hz / G-Sync To get a model with a decent resolution, you need to jump up another $50, and that's a VA panel, a slight improvement but not an IPS either and you lose G-Sync support... Asus UWQHD ($730) - VA Panel / 1440p / 100Hz / FreeSync To get all the features of the 16:9 Acer I recommended above you need to spend $920 (67% more) Asus PG348Q ($920) - IPS Panel / 1440p / 100Hz / G-Sync Tough sell for me, unless you have the budget. 16:9 / 1440p really is the way to go with budget taken into consideration. Ultrawide is awesome though, panels are just expensive.

Finger crossed you're good to go! ?

You could be safe, I'd personally let the test go for 30 minutes or so. My personal test is P95 (Pre-AVX) with FurMark for max power draw. But if it was shutting off immediately before and isn't now then you're probably good. It has happened before that dust build up causes over current protection to kick in, you're lucky if that's the case!

Built a 9900K system in October and slapped a NH-D15 in there, it's doing a great job keeping it at a steady 5.0GHz. If you're overclocking further you'll want to look at 360mm AIO or custom, that chip is a toasty one.

Honestly I'd run the other two monitors as secondary and tertiary displays, no need to upgrade them if they're fine for just being extra monitors. if you put your whole budget towards a single high quality display that you'll use as your primary (center) display. There are a few great options depending on your preferences. You can get a TN panel G-Sync display that is 1440p, or a IPS panel (better colour compared to TN) with the same specs except it doesn't support G-Sync but FreeSync instead. Which you won't be able to use with your Nvidia card. I'd personally say go with the Acer as G-Sync is an awesome feature and unless you're coming from IPS you probably won't care too much as it'll be a big upgrade whichever way you slice it. Acer XB271HU (TN) ($500) - TN Panel / 1440p / 144Hz / G-Sync Asus MG279Q ($510) - IPS Panel / 1440p / 144Hz / FreeSync EDIT: Acer XB271HU (IPS) ($550) - IPS Panel / 1440p / 144Hz / G-Sync The price on this used to be ~$680 last time I looked at it (recently), so this is actually my recommendation at the moment. $50 more for the IPS variant is well worth it.

Well you've got a few options, you can be a total dick and pick up a PSU from a local store and test with it and if it solves the problem keep it while the RMA processes and return it afterwards LOL (or just keep it). If you have any buddies with extra hardware laying around they may let you borrow a PSU to test/wait out the RMA if it turns out to be the PSU. Taking it to a Electronics retailer like MemoryExpress (if they offer repairs) they would be able to swap in a new PSU and help you diagnose the problem, will likely cost you as well unless they take pity on you ?. Otherwise, you'll have to contact CoolerMaster and let them know of the issue you're having and start an RMA without knowing 100% if it is the issue or not. Which could result in you just wasting a few weeks waiting on it (bad time of year too with the Holidays) only to have them test the unit and find out it wasn't an issue... so bit of a risk there. It's highly likely it is the PSU though, but there is still the risk of it not being that. Eliminating that unknown is the best course of action before starting an RMA.

I've dealt with a similar issue recently and it was a Seasonic Platinum unit that failed with basically the same symptoms as you are describing, also a high quality unit so it's not unheard of. How long have you been running the system? Do you have a spare PSU you could swap in to test? The CM V-Series are high quality units so the warranty is 5 years if it's an issue with the PSU. However, it could also be an issue with your motherboard thinking the voltages are incorrect when they may be within an acceptable range and the motherboard shutting the system down to protect itself. Best way to check is to swap in a different PSU.

Just FYI If you stated what the purpose for looking to upgrade is better advice could be provided. General advice is try to get an identical kit, if you can't then settle for a similar kit by the same manufacturer with specs as close to the original as possible for compatibility.