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I haven`t turned off my computer for the past 10 years
 
Exceptions are power outings and component swapping/removal

Not a true geek then just kidding bit soft sound actually puts me to sleep... Laptop running, computer running, soft volume music

Just got some extra drives as I was running out of space.
 

*an

CPU-wise they are very similar it seems, probably not a very noticeable difference between them. GPU-wise (if you are using integrated graphics and not a dedicated card) the 7660d on the 5800k is a bit better than the 8570d on the 6600k. If they are the same price I'd probably go with the 5800k. I have a 5800k and I'm very pleased with it. If you are using a dedicated graphics card, you shouldn't be buying either of these, either get an athlon or switch to a different socket.

Rendering is something different it loads the CPU like a stress test would. I do a fair bit of video encoding and if my overclock is Prime/LinX stable (12 hours) I never had problems. I had cases where it would pass 2-3 hours of stress testing but crash when encoding, but after 12 it worked like a charm. In the C2D days I used Orthos, I would leave it on blend stress, intensity 8 for 24h if it passed that I had no troubles
 
As I said in my first post in this topic, for GPU stability I like to run FurMark for like 30min, and then leave some 3D looping for a while be it Unigine or 3D Mark
 
And yeah you can also use ATI Tool for stress testing, it`s a bit old school but if you overdid it with the overclock it will show you  :rolleyes:

FurMark/MSI Kombustor for stress testing, and you can run Unigine Tropics/Heaven/Vally for 3D

FurMark/MSI Kombustor for stress testing, and you can run Unigine Tropics/Heaven/Vally for 3D

Of those two the Gigabyte & ASUS.
 
 
The MSI has a 4 phase VRM which is not that good for overclocking, for 6 & 8 core at least an 8 phase VRM with a heatsink.
 
@13242
 
You can go for the Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P if you want to go with 8 phase VRM and cooled, but on the cheap

I did this one about 2-3 years ago, I scraped a dead AV reciver and made a HTPC out of it     It started like this:   Then I drilled the holes for the motherboard stands and tried it out:   Some more drilling and the PSU is mounted also:   Home made USB header for the front panel. A piece of plastic, dead USB hub, solder iron,  glue gun & viola:   Home made two directional switch. some plastic, micro switches from the original front panel, soldering iron, super glue, glue gun, a lot of lost nerves  and a decent result:   USB Header & switches mounted:   To make the switches on the front panel actually work I had to scrap my old Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000 keyboard and get busy with the soldering iron:   First test, all hardware in everything connected  
I couldn't use the original back panel so I got a piece of metal the same size as the original, and then the fun started   So this is the new back panel:   After some drilling and filing:   And then some more filing & sanding:      It`s done:        

thats so cool!
 
Might do it with an old VCR, would be so awesome

Bro, thats creative! +1
nice Switch

This is something I finished about a year ago. I bought a used Logitech DFP some 4 years ago, and I honestly think it`s the best/most fun piece of hardware I ever bought. Shortly after the purchase I wanted to make a cockpit, I made some drawings but it was pretty much all I did. Then 2 years ago I entered a F1 2012 tournament. I practiced at home with my wheel bolted to the table, and me siting on an office chair. When I got to the tournament and sat in the playseat the feeling was so different than the one at home. Needles to say, as we had only one practice lap and two timed I only had a decent lap on my last lap but that was enough only for the midfield. When I got home I finally put my plans in motion, my dad gave me a seat, I bought/had the material I needed and the end product is on the pictures below. I`m currently making modifications to it so the Logitech G25 can fit (i need to make a mount for the shifter, and extend the bay for the pedals)
 
 
What I needed for the project:
 
- The seat (in my case it`s form a Citroen Saxo)
- one  3cm x 3cm square steel pipe 6m long 
- a piece of steel sheet metal 43x35cm
- a piece of l-profile 40cm long
- a piece of metal 48x10cm
- a piece of wood 50x25cm
- nuts & bolts
- a piece of carpet (for the pedal bay so they won`t slip)
- glue
- paint
- saw
- power drill
- electric grinder
- welding station
 
The initial plan was to copy the original Playseat but that one required the most material (and I was looking not to spend much), then I looked at the Playseat EVO & Playseat WRC design, and made my own crossover version of the those two
 
 
Original Playesat
 

 
Playseat EVO
 

 
Playesat WRC
 

 
 
 
The Sedište
 

 
The Šipka
 

 

Work in progress...
 








 
 
And The final product
 

HTC One M8
 

 
 

The answer to your question is around the 33rd minute.
 

Got this bad boy to replace my Logitech DFP
 

There are LGA 775 boards with PCI-e 2.0
 
And some 3.0 card do work in 1.0 slots

Got this bad boy to replace my Logitech DFP
 

Yes you are
 
You have a newer version than the minimum required
 
 
 
And one more thing if you can get your hands on a Q9400 or even better a Q9550 that would be a decent Quad build  B)

You can use CPU-Z to check the current bios version, and then check on the MSI website which version you need to run a Wolfdale based CPU. You can find that here.
 
As for overclocking the C2Ds are relatively easy to OC. The E1500 has an 11 multiplier so you calculate the clock speed of the CPU as FSBx11, the stock speed is 200x11=2200MHz, if you can get 300MHz FSB out of your board you will get the clock speed to 3.3GHz. That will require some trial and error, first to see can that board do that FSB clock (that shouldn't be an issue as it supports 333MHz FSB out of the box when flashed with the latest bios) and then to see how good of an overclocker your CPU is. You will also have to raise the CPU voltage, and maybe the NB voltage to stabilize the system. I ran my Pentium E2140 @ 2.96GHz at 1.44v
 
You can check system stability with programs like Prime95, LinX, OCCT or Orthos.
 
But overclocking will raise the heat output of the CPU so you should monitor the temperatures, CoreTemp will help there, anything to 65-70c under load is OK but I would not push it over that. If you're using the stock cooler your overcloking will be limited.