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6 cores for this one Yep correct, 8 for this 8 cores which will allow 2 tasks to run at once

Hello guys, my Logitech G304 sensor is acting up and it just bounces up and down whenever I try to use scroll wheel. So zooming in game, scrolling stuff is a pain. actually impossible cuz the scroll wheel just jumps up and down at the same spot for a long time. I found some scroll wheel sensor but I have no idea what the height of the sensor of my mouse is. If any of you know, can you tell me, please?

Usually a "screen going black" that isn't a connector issue is the "driver being reset" which happens on weak GPU's and "factory OC" GPU's that encounter a load that triggers a thermal fault. The correct thing to do is to see if the thing happens again. If it's exactly repeatable, usually that indicates a hardware failure. If it's seemingly random, that indicates a RAM or CPU fault, usually RAM. When a GPU is at fault, it will always fail under the exact same conditions. For GTX/RTX 70/80/90 parts and AMD's equivalent this can also indicate a power issue with one of the GPU power connectors.

Also, I’m current splitting time between the marathon and the city run, should I move to city run only?

Can never go wrong with these long lived and reputable brands of graphics cards: Boeing for their 737 Max series Brother for their printer series Intel for their recent i9 series Ubisoft for The Crew and advocacy of ownership Sony's Helldivers 2 and strong data security

So I have a 12900H (6 p-cores 8 e-cores 24MB), a 5700X (8 cores 32MB), and a 7950X (16 cores 64MB). sounds like it makes sense to put the latter two on 8 cores per task, but the former should be 14 cores per task? How would I accomplish that with the online settings? (If it makes a difference I’m using BAM)

I use raspberry pi os lite 64bit (bookworm), no desktop. I have a 1tb hdd where my os sits (externally powered), and the other external 2tb hdd is the one I mainly use to store and access data via smb over the network. However the issue is, pi doesn't boot up if I unplug the 2tb hdd. So, I have to plug it in to boot the pi, which is very inconvenient. Is there a better way to mount the hdd? I do not want to do any raid, as the files are mostly video and movies, non essential stuff. This is the method I use to mount the hdd: sudo mkdir /mnt/LocalDisk sudo chown pi:pi /mnt/LocalDisk sudo blkid echo 'UUID=9E4492CB4492A615 /mnt/LocalDisk ntfs defaults 0 1' | sudo tee -a /etc/fstab sudo mount -a cd /mnt && sudo chmod -R 777 LocalDisk If there's any info you need, I'll provide them. Thanks!

Tried with and without, same result

Koss KSC-75, nothing comes close until your spending over $100 more

I would go with something like this, assuming you are reusing your SSD? - https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tTh9z6 PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tTh9z6 CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($281.63 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S 55.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B650I Lightning Wifi Mini ITX AM5 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($114.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Zotac GAMING Twin Edge OC GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card ($584.99 @ Newegg) Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($49.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 GM 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($154.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1451.48 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-05-09 06:51 EDT-0400 There is also more budget to stretch for a better GPU if you wish, although if you would like cheaper, this would be my choice

I can't say anything about the Corsair monitor but I currently use the 240hz version of this monitor as my main monitor and its absolutely fantastic. https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08VRNQ4HY?tag=pcp05-21&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 I also use 2x version of the same monitor in 27'' as well. LG 27GP850-B. I went through over 15 monitors from LG's competitors and they all had issues I find annoying ( Backlight bleed, IPS glow etc )

Hi buddy, As a home cinema enthusiast as well as PC geek, I've done this a fair few times over the years and almost always come to the same conclusion. Your AVR has all the gubbins to switch Audio and Video so why not use that instead of adding another switching device to the mix. Does your Windows PC have a dedicated GPU with one or more HDMI Ports? If it does and I was you, I would do the following: PC GPU HDMI out directly to Monitor / Screen PC GPU 2nd HDMI or Mobo HDMI out to AVR for Audio. This will wire into the DTV/Cable HDMI input on the Yammy. Your PC will detect the AVR as a 2nd screen but as long as you set the Windows display settings to 'extend' NOT 'clone' you will be able to use the display at the correct resolution, refresh rate and any HDR. The only irritation with the above solution is Windows thinks a 2nd screen is attached so your mouse can disappear off screen onto the 'phantom' screen. Its been a while since I've done this and don't recall a way of disabling the 'video' part independently of the 'audio' Macbook - Buy a USB to Spdif device - Plumb this into the DVD Coax input on the Yammy. Dell XPS - Buy a USB to Optical / Toslink device - Plumb this into CD Optical input on the Yammy. In all 3 use cases, the above connections will allow for 2ch PCM and Dolby Digital / DTS to be bitstreamed to the AVR from all devices. Your Windows PC sound settings should be configured to 5.1 audio. This will allow you to play games in 5.1. For movie watching, you will need to install something like the K-Lite Audio Codec pack and set the audio part of it to bitstream / passthrough for all audio formats your Yammy can decode. Dolby Digital, DTS, Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD....... You'll be able to do the same thing on your XPS but from what I remember, games tend NOT to bitstream over Spdif / Optical so you'll need to use your AVRs Pro-Logic up-mix function get pseudo-surround. Just a guess, but I suspect you wont be gaming much on the Dell and use the PC for that??? For the Mac, sorry, no experience with this BUT I suspect the process will be similar to the XPS. Add when you win the lottery, you can buy a new AVR with HDMI 2.1 support and plumb everything into that and let it do all the work. Hope I've made sence. Cheers C

Fair enough, give me 5!

I buy almost all of my parts on facebook marketplace, ebay, and craigslist when I find a steal. At the time I bought that drive, the cheapest 1tb NVMe online was like $80 and I paid $60 for that. Same goes for all three overkill PSUs, bought them ‘’’dead’’’ for pennies on the dollar and either used them, troubleshot them or RMAd them. I accept risk with my own stuff that I’d never recommend to a stranger. On the Swedish market the premium for the PA120 is almost nothing over significantly weaker coolers, and noise is a real thing. The aesthetic of dual rad coolers is also something that people will bite at, and I wasn’t as interested in pursuing the point. It would work fine, though. This is not a constructive way to argue. Diverting and making generalizations like this when specific points have already been laid out is juvenile at best.

It doesn't matter, I just need a parts list that fit within the budget, since prices between US and SG are quite similar Also it's easier for you.

If you were on Windows, you'd just have to enable "Stereo Mix" as an input device from the Sound control panel. Think of it as a virtual device that has a copy of everything that goes out to your speakers. Last I checked sound on Linux is still a cluster, with more ways to solve every problem than there are grains of sand on Earth. There must be something similar to Stereo Mix on whichever stack it is you're running.

A DNS server can't really block a VPN connection (or malware). It could refuse (or be unable to) to resolve the host name of your brother's work place to their IP, but that's about it. Once the IP has been resolved, the DNS server isn't involved anymore and the connection is between home and office. The claim that their DNS "blocks malware" is also… well, it's marketing. The only thing they really do is refuse to resolve host names of sites that are classified as containing malware or adult content. That's it. They can't actively block the connection. It's like saying my telephone book blocks you from calling adult hotlines. It may not contain their numbers, but that doesn't mean they don't still exist and can be called, if you get hold of the number any other way. So if a kid is somewhat technically inclined, they can just reconfigure their PC to use any other DNS server and Cloudflare's "protection" is null and void. Or better yet, install a RasPi with their own caching DNS server, with any other DNS server as its upstream

I'm trying to do it using helvum, and i need to somehow wire it to send the audio through mic, does anyone know how to do that? RB-M300B is my headphones, and built-in audio on the bottom is the microphone

and I am currently using the PG278QR https://rog.asus.com/de/monitors/27-to-31-5-inches/rog-swift-pg278qr-model/ from Asus. I still have enough space on my desk and would like to switch to 32 inches. This offer popped up here https://www.corsair.com/de/de/p/monitors/cm-9020007-pe/corsair-xeneon-315qhd165-32-inch-ips-gaming-monitor-qhd-2560-x-1440-165hz-1ms-hdr-ready-1-07-billion-colors-pe-cm-9020007-pe Do you think the upgrade would be worthwhile or is there something else in the price range up to 500 euros that would be a better fit? I mainly play games on the computer (Battlefield, FS2020, Helldivers 2)

[ Threads merged ] Please don't create multiple threads about the same topic in rapid succession.

Hmm, there is not an option for Singapore on PC Part Picker, what sites are local to you?

No bother, I'll do my best

Mini-ITX would be the place to go for me. Also, my budget is $2500 SGD or ~$1850 USD, the specific sites to get the parts from won't matter, as long as I get a parts list I can replicate here locally. I can technically spend up to $3000 SGD though, but would like to spend as little as possible

Price updating is really slow as well. Sometimes you can find new hardware cheaper. Especially CPUs and GPUs.

Yeah that's why I stay with Nvidia, I will try give a list of parts with Nvidia gpu then. By SFF are you thinking Micro-ATX or Mini-ITX?