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Im trying to overclock my 4670k which is in a z87-hd3 from gigabyte, but i cant seem to get anywhere, as whenever i change the multiplier in the bios, i boot back into windows but it seems to be limited at 3.6ghz. 

Ive tried disabling intel turbo in the bios, but it didnt help.

 

Any ideas what i can do? In the bios it says my cpu frequency is at 4.0ghz, but in windows its at 3.6 when under load. it goes higher when im not at full load.

Temps are in the 50s

 

Thanks

Gershy13

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x + H150i Elite LCD     

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB DDR4 3600MHz CL16

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro

GPU: MSI RTX 3070 Ventus 3X OC       

SSD 1: Corsair MP600 1tb (Windows)      

SSD 2: Samsung 840 EVO 120gb (Scratch Drive)   

SSD 3: Samsung 860 EVO 250gb

HDD 1: WD Blue 1TB

HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

Case: NZXT H710

PSU: Corsair TX750M

Mouse: Lamzu Atlantis Pro Mini 4khz

Keyboard: Akko 5075B Plus

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit  

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Just now, light-v said:

Stupid question: are you checking the frequency within windows itself (system/task manager)? 

Actually no I didn't try task manager. I used realtemp, Aida 64 and cpu-z and they all showed the same temp.

 

Also my computer just shut itself off and turned back on again. Due to the overclock not being stable? So it was possibly working?

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x + H150i Elite LCD     

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB DDR4 3600MHz CL16

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro

GPU: MSI RTX 3070 Ventus 3X OC       

SSD 1: Corsair MP600 1tb (Windows)      

SSD 2: Samsung 840 EVO 120gb (Scratch Drive)   

SSD 3: Samsung 860 EVO 250gb

HDD 1: WD Blue 1TB

HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

Case: NZXT H710

PSU: Corsair TX750M

Mouse: Lamzu Atlantis Pro Mini 4khz

Keyboard: Akko 5075B Plus

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit  

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reset CMOS. Sometimes old BIOS settings do stick for no reason.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Just now, Jurrunio said:

reset CMOS. Sometimes old BIOS settings do stick for no reason.

How do I do that? And will it reset my BIOS settings?

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x + H150i Elite LCD     

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB DDR4 3600MHz CL16

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro

GPU: MSI RTX 3070 Ventus 3X OC       

SSD 1: Corsair MP600 1tb (Windows)      

SSD 2: Samsung 840 EVO 120gb (Scratch Drive)   

SSD 3: Samsung 860 EVO 250gb

HDD 1: WD Blue 1TB

HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

Case: NZXT H710

PSU: Corsair TX750M

Mouse: Lamzu Atlantis Pro Mini 4khz

Keyboard: Akko 5075B Plus

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit  

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1 minute ago, Gershy13 said:

Also my computer just shut itself off and turned back on again. Due to the overclock not being stable? So it was possibly working?

Sounds like you were too aggressive, which caused the bios to revert the settings hence your 3.6GHz on Windows 

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Just now, light-v said:

Sounds like you were too aggressive, which caused the bios to revert the settings hence your 3.6GHz on Windows 

I tried 3.8 and I had the same issue, but it hadn't shutdown, so this time I tried 4.0 and it shut down. Surely it can go up by 0.2?

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x + H150i Elite LCD     

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB DDR4 3600MHz CL16

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro

GPU: MSI RTX 3070 Ventus 3X OC       

SSD 1: Corsair MP600 1tb (Windows)      

SSD 2: Samsung 840 EVO 120gb (Scratch Drive)   

SSD 3: Samsung 860 EVO 250gb

HDD 1: WD Blue 1TB

HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

Case: NZXT H710

PSU: Corsair TX750M

Mouse: Lamzu Atlantis Pro Mini 4khz

Keyboard: Akko 5075B Plus

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit  

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1 minute ago, Gershy13 said:

How do I do that? And will it reset my BIOS settings?

some motherboards have a button on the rear I/O for that, or a jumper on the motherboard. The easiest way is to take off the CMOS battery usually near the PCIe slots and wait for a minute or so.

 

Yes it will (or rather, it should)

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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12 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

some motherboards have a button on the rear I/O for that, or a jumper on the motherboard. The easiest way is to take off the CMOS battery usually near the PCIe slots and wait for a minute or so.

 

Yes it will (or rather, it should)

no button on the rear... ill open it up and check.

12 minutes ago, light-v said:

Have you left the Vcore on auto or did you manually set a voltage? 

i think its on auto, i didnt wanna mess with voltages for now.

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x + H150i Elite LCD     

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB DDR4 3600MHz CL16

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro

GPU: MSI RTX 3070 Ventus 3X OC       

SSD 1: Corsair MP600 1tb (Windows)      

SSD 2: Samsung 840 EVO 120gb (Scratch Drive)   

SSD 3: Samsung 860 EVO 250gb

HDD 1: WD Blue 1TB

HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

Case: NZXT H710

PSU: Corsair TX750M

Mouse: Lamzu Atlantis Pro Mini 4khz

Keyboard: Akko 5075B Plus

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit  

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2 minutes ago, Gershy13 said:

no button on the rear... ill open it up and check.

i think its on auto, i didnt wanna mess with voltages for now.

Well you should leaving on auto can do more harm than good as the motherboard can push more voltage than necessary, setting a specific voltage ensure that your CPU runs at the voltage and not higher. Start with 1.2v until it boots at the frequency you want and dial from there (depending if you want to run faster or cooler) 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 12/04/2018 at 3:38 PM, light-v said:

Well you should leaving on auto can do more harm than good as the motherboard can push more voltage than necessary, setting a specific voltage ensure that your CPU runs at the voltage and not higher. Start with 1.2v until it boots at the frequency you want and dial from there (depending if you want to run faster or cooler) 

i got it running at 4.3ghz at 1.259v

any good? is it advisable to push any higher voltage? i tried going up to 1.3, but i didnt get even 4.4... should i try higher? i only have a hyper 212 evo...

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x + H150i Elite LCD     

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB DDR4 3600MHz CL16

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro

GPU: MSI RTX 3070 Ventus 3X OC       

SSD 1: Corsair MP600 1tb (Windows)      

SSD 2: Samsung 840 EVO 120gb (Scratch Drive)   

SSD 3: Samsung 860 EVO 250gb

HDD 1: WD Blue 1TB

HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

Case: NZXT H710

PSU: Corsair TX750M

Mouse: Lamzu Atlantis Pro Mini 4khz

Keyboard: Akko 5075B Plus

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit  

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On 05/05/2018 at 6:47 PM, Gershy13 said:

i got it running at 4.3ghz at 1.259v

any good? is it advisable to push any higher voltage? i tried going up to 1.3, but i didnt get even 4.4... should i try higher? i only have a hyper 212 evo...

1.3v is gonna be too hot for the Hyper 212 and is about the max Vcore you want for Haswell for 24/7 operation with any cooler (some may say 1.35v but I don't recommend that) 

 

If you can't push 4.4GHz at 1.3v then unfortunately 4.3GHz is the max for your particular CPU (Haswell is not a very good overclocker anyway). Now you can start dialing back to say 1.25v or even 1.225v or even less until you find the minimum stable voltage so your CPU will run cooler

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4 hours ago, light-v said:

1.3v is gonna be too hot for the Hyper 212 and is about the max Vcore you want for Haswell for 24/7 operation with any cooler (some may say 1.35v but I don't recommend that) 

 

If you can't push 4.4GHz at 1.3v then unfortunately 4.3GHz is the max for your particular CPU (Haswell is not a very good overclocker anyway). Now you can start dialing back to say 1.25v or even 1.225v or even less until you find the minimum stable voltage so your CPU will run cooler

Temperature doesn't really seem to be an issue at even around 1.27

Voltage is at 1.259 and stable at 4.3...

I think I could go a little less but just to be on the safe side I'm leaving it at that... Temps are very well controlled (70c max usually)

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x + H150i Elite LCD     

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB DDR4 3600MHz CL16

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro

GPU: MSI RTX 3070 Ventus 3X OC       

SSD 1: Corsair MP600 1tb (Windows)      

SSD 2: Samsung 840 EVO 120gb (Scratch Drive)   

SSD 3: Samsung 860 EVO 250gb

HDD 1: WD Blue 1TB

HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

Case: NZXT H710

PSU: Corsair TX750M

Mouse: Lamzu Atlantis Pro Mini 4khz

Keyboard: Akko 5075B Plus

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit  

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4 hours ago, Gershy13 said:

Temperature doesn't really seem to be an issue at even around 1.27

Voltage is at 1.259 and stable at 4.3...

I think I could go a little less but just to be on the safe side I'm leaving it at that... Temps are very well controlled (70c max usually)

Seems like yours is better than mine at least. With the same setup at 1.25v my 4670K peaks at 82°C under Prime95 (stabilising around 75°C) and that's with a Gentle Typhoon fan on the Hyper 212. Serious case of Intel toothpaste here I guess

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I have the same MoBo and CPU as you.  I first overclocked it with an Evo 212 as well.  I do not remember my settings, but I know I was able to get 4.2 GHz stable.

As was mentioned, do not use auto.  You can try setting a higher voltage, say 1.3V, to see if it will boot to windows, but, yes, it may be too much for the 212, so you will have to scale back.

 

I can vouche for the BIOS resetting itself if it doesn't like the  OC.  It is a bit annoying as it is not a very advanced BIOS, so I would suggest writing down your settings so you know where to start off again after the reset.

 

The silicone lottery is at play here, but unless you got a really bad chip, you should be able to hit 4GHz.  I remember there being an OC guide on youtube about this using an ASUS MoBo.  It was close enough to use to do the job on the Gigabyte board.  I would link you up if I could on my work computer.

 

I know this won't help you much, but as a reference, I have the CPU at 4.4 GHz on an H110i @ 1.4V.  That is a high voltage, however I am willing to risk it as an upgrade is imminent.  I have had it as high as 4.8 unstable, and at 4.5-4.6 mostly stable, so these CPUs are able to OC quite a bit.  It's just a matter of playing around a bit.  You'll get it eventually.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 08/05/2018 at 12:21 AM, light-v said:

Seems like yours is better than mine at least. With the same setup at 1.25v my 4670K peaks at 82°C under Prime95 (stabilising around 75°C) and that's with a Gentle Typhoon fan on the Hyper 212. Serious case of Intel toothpaste here I guess

 

On 08/05/2018 at 6:47 AM, MooseKnuckle said:

I have the same MoBo and CPU as you.  I first overclocked it with an Evo 212 as well.  I do not remember my settings, but I know I was able to get 4.2 GHz stable.

As was mentioned, do not use auto.  You can try setting a higher voltage, say 1.3V, to see if it will boot to windows, but, yes, it may be too much for the 212, so you will have to scale back.

 

I can vouche for the BIOS resetting itself if it doesn't like the  OC.  It is a bit annoying as it is not a very advanced BIOS, so I would suggest writing down your settings so you know where to start off again after the reset.

 

The silicone lottery is at play here, but unless you got a really bad chip, you should be able to hit 4GHz.  I remember there being an OC guide on youtube about this using an ASUS MoBo.  It was close enough to use to do the job on the Gigabyte board.  I would link you up if I could on my work computer.

 

I know this won't help you much, but as a reference, I have the CPU at 4.4 GHz on an H110i @ 1.4V.  That is a high voltage, however I am willing to risk it as an upgrade is imminent.  I have had it as high as 4.8 unstable, and at 4.5-4.6 mostly stable, so these CPUs are able to OC quite a bit.  It's just a matter of playing around a bit.  You'll get it eventually.

thanks guys...

 

its stable now, i had to bump the voltage slighly up (to 1.265) as it crashed the other day when i was playing fortnite...

 

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x + H150i Elite LCD     

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB DDR4 3600MHz CL16

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro

GPU: MSI RTX 3070 Ventus 3X OC       

SSD 1: Corsair MP600 1tb (Windows)      

SSD 2: Samsung 840 EVO 120gb (Scratch Drive)   

SSD 3: Samsung 860 EVO 250gb

HDD 1: WD Blue 1TB

HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

Case: NZXT H710

PSU: Corsair TX750M

Mouse: Lamzu Atlantis Pro Mini 4khz

Keyboard: Akko 5075B Plus

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit  

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14 hours ago, Gershy13 said:

 

thanks guys...

 

its stable now, i had to bump the voltage slighly up (to 1.265) as it crashed the other day when i was playing fortnite...

 

You should be safe pushing the Voltages a little higher if need be assuming you maintain temps.  The price of a better cooler may make up for a portion of the performance gain.  This was my thought process.  Drop in a $130 water cooler to push another year or 2 out of the cpu.  Cheaper than buying a new MoBo, CPU and DDR4.  a $100 air cooler will do just as well though.  Options to keep in mind if that is something you are willing to do.

 

Also, if you are comfortable with the process, you can try delidding the CPU.  Should drop your temps a fair bit.

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