Problems with first time water cooling

[synapse69]

 

Hello everyone this is my first post and my first attempt at water cooling.
I spent months doing research on water cooling and researching the parts. However, I have obviously overlooked some details as I feel that the loops is not running as it should be.
First off this is the precursor to the final build which will be a PC table. So I’d like to work out the bugs before I’ve committed to a loop under a 38” x 63” sheet of tempered glass. Adjustments will be a huge undertaking then.
I’ll post 3 lists of parts; First build, current state and what I have and/or plan for the final build. I figure this way all the information will be out there to get the best advise.

First build parts list.

 

Case: Thermaltake Tower 900 Snow Edition 

http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002975

 

Motherboard/CPU block: ASUS ROG Maximus IX Extreme LGA1151

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-MAXIMUS-IX-EXTREME/

 

GPU/ SLI:  Dual ASUS ROG Poseidon GeForce® GTX 1080 TI 11GB Platinum Edition

https://www.asus.com/us/Graphics-Cards/ROG-POSEIDON-GTX1080TI-P11G-GAMING/

 

Radiator #1: Thermaltake Pacific RL420 Radiator

http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002648

 

Radiator #2:  Thermaltake Pacific RL560 Radiator

http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002649

 

Reservoir x2: Aqualis XT 450 ml with nano coating

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2917

 

Pump x2: Aquastream ULTIMATE

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3379

 

Fan controller: Aquaero 6 XT

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3737

Also included in the loop with: Passive heatsink and waterblock

heat sink: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3175

Waterblock: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2671

 

Tubing: PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing - 3/8in.ID x 5/8in.OD

https://www.primochill.com/products/primoflex-advanced-lrt-flexible-tubing-3-8in-id-x-5-8in-od-retail-bundle-10ft-pack-crystal-clear

 

Fittings: Monsoon G1/4" to 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD Chain Gun Compression Fitting

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-chain-gun-compression-fittings-3-8-x-5-8-4-pack-white.html#Details

The ones that I received do not have the white barb but a silver colored barb. I would assume that this would still be the same marine grade brass as stated. I also bought a 4 pack of red fittings that came with the same barb, not the colored ones that all the pictures seem to show matching the color of the compression fittings.

 

Misc fitting adaptors:
90 degree adapter
Bitspower G 1/4" Deep Blood Red Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g-1-4-deep-blood-red-rotary-90-degree-ig-1-4-adapter.html

 

45 degree adaptors:

Enzotech G1/4" 45° Rotary Fitting, Chrome

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B0YC4GM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Fitting extension:

Swiftech G1/4" 15mm Male to Female Lok-Seal Fitting

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V2RPIJI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Temperature sensors: 8x Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2293

 

I started to assemble the loop on January 17th when the last of the parts arrived. It wasn’t to terribly difficult. Flushing the rads and blocks, assembly, leak test, 3 hours running with the system prep fluid that came with the primochill tubing and then finally flushing the prep fluid and adding the final fill with the biocide included with the tubing. The loop direction went:
Res 1>Pump1>Aquero>CPU>GPU1>GPU2>Res2>Pump2>Rad1>Rad2

The system ran great, no temp issues at all. Fans rarely ran at a noticeable speed. The pumps registered a flow rate of 21/Lph. This was a huge drop from the 100+/Lph they would register before connected to the full loop. Reducing the waterfall effect of the reservoirs to a barely noticeable dribble. The rate still seemed to be within an acceptable range so I did not delve further into that.
About 3 week in I noticed that the water in the reservoirs and tubing was starting to cloud up. I left it alone and watched it closely while looking up possible reason for the cloudy water. About a week later I noticed that Res2 was almost empty and had leaked. Water pooled up underneath and under the case. No issues with components as the way this case is designed all the electronic parts are near the top.
I immediately shut down and unplugged. Inspecting the fittings there was no obvious signs of leakage there. Seems that Res2 leaked at the cylinder to base connection. While removing Res2 I drained the system, reconfigured the loop direction and placed the pumps inline. New flow pattern:

Res1>Pump1>Pump2>Aquero>CPU>GPU1>GPU2>Rad1>Rad2
The flow rate was still about the same. The visiale flow meter in the monoblock no longer spins.
Issues I noticed, the tubing had white powdery substance on the inside. I cut a piece open, it was dry and powdery. No sludge. Some of the fitting barbs had a white/pinkish gooey substance within. I had cleaned off as much as I could without tearing the blocks open. I failed to take pictures of the fitting then.
 

Now 3-4 weeks later I had the cloudy water issue again. I drained the system and removed the pumps, Res1, 3 of 4 45 degree fitting adaptors, 15mm fitting extensions and Aquero.
New parts added are;
Pump/res combo: Enermax NEOChanger 400ml RGB LED Reservoir and Pump

http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_1&lv0=109&lv1=112&no=357

 

Flow meter: Bykski Metal Water(Liquid) Cooling Flow Meter / indicator

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY7M4OF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Neither flow indicator moves after installing into the loop. The water is flowing but at very slow rate. No meters hooked up so I can’t give an estimated Lph.
The system was flushed with system prep for 48 hours then drained and refilled with biocide added and a silver kill coil placed into the loop.
24 hours after the refill and bleeding an air bubble showed up at the outflow of GPU2. The flow rate is not strong enough to put the bubble down through the line, it just sits there, laughing at me.
Visual inspection of the fittings I feel are worse than before. The gooey sludge was no longer there however the fittings and plugs on the GPUs, and all temperature sensors now had blueish white coloring with spots. This look to me as corrosion. I will upload pictures later. The 45 degree adaptors all have a white powdery coating on the inside. It does not come off very well when wiping it with Qtips after it has dried. The barbs on the compression fitting on the GPUs have the same coloring/coating as the temp sensors. No other barbs had any noticeable issues other than a light white powder coating the wiped away with ease.

So my question is what is making the water cloudy? Is this normal, a plasticiser issue, mixed metal issue or poor biocide/ additive? I have not found definitive information as to what the Asus blocks are made out of but I am committed to these parts for the final build as they are to costly to replace. Unless I can sell them and buy something else later on.

The final build includes all the same parts, pump and reservoirs aside, with the exception of the Radiators. The final build will utilize two 840mm full copper/copper finned radiators instead of the 420 and 560 rads.

 

Radiators x2: Airplex modularity system 840 mm

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3364

 

Knowing for sure how much copper will be within the loop what are my options with the current unknown prebuilt blocks for the final build?

[sky_shark_101]

The sludge looks like flux from a rad. You should use the mayhems blitz kit to clean your radiators out for a minimum of 24 hours. I had a similar problem with Primochill Vue fluid that effectively cleaned all the crud out of my rads and into my loop. After a drain and using Mayhem's Blitz for the loop and rads for 24 hours and copious flushing with distilled water, I refilled the loop with fluid and have not had any problems since (running for 4 months now), my PC runs at least 8 hours a day and is heavily overclocked on GPU and CPU. People underestimate how much stuff is in the rads and also once it is in your loop it is difficult to rid it completely.

 

I would recommend dismantling your blocks to clean them out and replacing the tubing then doing a flush with Mayhem's Blitz and you should be ok. 

[SquintyG33Rs]

it's not flux from the rad.... THE RAD IS ALUMINUM you have copper blocks for everything else. it's galvanic corrosion. you need to get copper radiators.

 

(edit) coming from your own link
 

P/N	CL-W055-AL00BL-A
Dimension	602.5 (L) x 140 (W) x 56 (H)
Weight	1405 g
Material	Anti-Corrosion Aluminum Alloy
FPI (Fin per inch)	13
Flat Tube	13 set
Screw Thread	G 1/4 * 5
Parts	Stopper *3 (G 1/4 )

[For Science!]

2 hours ago, synapse69 said:

 

Yep, Aluminimum radiator, silver coated fittings and kill coil, and copper will guarantee corrosion.

[SquintyG33Rs]

4 hours ago, For Science! said:

Yep, Aluminimum radiator, silver coated fittings and kill coil, and copper will guarantee corrosion.

the silver coating is usually nickel which has very very close anodic index to copper so that's not a problem. brass is also not too far away and is very often used for fittings because it's very easy to machine and is much cheaper than copper.

 

aluminum on the other hand is a big no no. you leave your setup as is for a while more and your radiators will literally have holes in it.

the way it works is the aluminum has a higher index and will be eaten away and the corrosion deposits itself on the copper (or what ever the nobler metal ends up being) so you can easily scrub it off and put your copper rads in and it'S all gonna be A-ok.

 

pretty much everything else you've bought should be totally fine, it's an unfortunate oversight.

[For Science!]

1 hour ago, SquintyG33Rs said:

the silver coating is usually nickel which has very very close anodic index to copper 

Except for Monsoon Fittings, that actually use silver for "anti-microbial" properties. Which is true, but unnecessary in this modern world with proper biocidal coolants. Silver should be phased out as it causes more problems than its worth in the presence of much superior alternatives like methylisothiazolinone.

Quote

Precision machined entirely from marine grade brass with antimicrobial silver barbs/bases so you can run pure distilled or deionized water without the need to add antimicrobial additives that can lower cooling performance. The barb/base also features an internal hex for easy and secure installation and removal, and the compression ring not only looks amazing--its unique design also makes gripping it with your fingers easy and totally pain free.

The available accent colors match Monsoon's full line of of finishes-including all of our compression fittings, standard rotaries, light port rotaries, stop plugs, LED plugs, temp sensor plugs, Silver Bullet antimicrobial plugs, and reservoirs---so you can match, contrast, or accent with total confidence. The O-Rings are premium silicone for years of dependable worry free service and are slightly oversized for easy leak free installation in a wide range of products with industry standard G 1/4 threads. Monsoon's Hardline Premium fittings are also modular and fully interchangeable-between fitting styles and across tube types. 

Features:
- Precision machined entirely from marine grade brass.
- Antimicrobial silver barbs/bases.

 

[SquintyG33Rs]

2 hours ago, For Science! said:

Except for Monsoon Fittings, that actually use silver for "anti-microbial" properties. Which is true, but unnecessary in this modern world with proper biocidal coolants. Silver should be phased out as it causes more problems than its worth in the presence of much superior alternatives like methylisothiazolinone.

 

wait but he'S using bitspower right? not these pain inducers? these look like they were built for marketing only. they have all the hit words "silver" "anty-microbial" and even pure bullshit like "marine grade" but the only thing they'll really help with is giving you nightmares.

 

especially since in this case silver would be the noble metal and your copper would be corroding instead of the rad which will be a much much bigger source of problems.

[For Science!]

6 minutes ago, SquintyG33Rs said:

wait but he'S using bitspower right? not these pain inducers? these look like they were built for marketing only. they have all the hit words "silver" "anty-microbial" and even pure bullshit like "marine grade" but the only thing they'll really help with is giving you nightmares.

 

especially since in this case silver would be the noble metal and your copper would be corroding instead of the rad which will be a much much bigger source of problems.

hes using bitspower angles fittings, but the actual tube fittings are monsoon

[SquintyG33Rs]

3 minutes ago, For Science! said:

hes using bitspower angles fittings, but the actual tube fittings are monsoon

THEY HAVE TO GO NOW

[synapse69]

Thanks for the replies everyone. The Amazon listing for the Thermaltake Rad states that:

• The radiator is made of aluminum with zinc coating to avoid any metal contact with other material from being corroded;Anti-Corrosion Zinc Coating

Is that incorrect information?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZOP6Y2E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ok so the Rads are not to bog of an issue, I already have the 2x 840mm rads. They are just to big for the case. I can make a table top box to house them with the case sitting on top. Case has holes in the bottom that I can feed the tubing in/out to the rads. 
The bits power angled fitting can go as well not really needed anymore. But the Monsoon compression fittings, I bought for the looks, do these need to go to or will they be good with the copper rads?