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On Amazon, there is a computer I plan on buying. It has a 1TB HDD. I was wondering should I get an SSD for it and if so what kind? Also if I do get an SSD, do I leave the HDD in the computer and use it with the SSD or do I take out the HDD and only use the SSD.

Here's the link.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072NC85LX/ref=psdc_13896597011_t1_B073PGM8TY?tag=linus21-20

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You put important things like the operating system and programs most used on the ssd then all bulk storage on the HDD

System Specs

CPU: I7-5820k   MOBO:Asus X99 strix   RAM: 32gb corsair Dominator Platinum 2666mhz   GPU: Gigabyte G1 Gaming 980TI  PSU: Corsair RM1000i 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mg7k2R

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Connect the SSD, install your OS. 

Install all of the drivers and programs you need to your SSD and let Windows update itself if it asks. 

Afterwards, connect your HDD. 

Cor Caeruleus Reborn v6

Spoiler

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K

CPU Cooler: be quiet! - PURE ROCK 
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste 
Motherboard: ASRock Z370 Extreme4
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ RGB 2x8GB 3200/14
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive 
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA - 970 SSC ACX (1080 is in RMA)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA P2 750W with CableMod blue/black Pro Series
Optical Drive: LG - WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer 
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit and Linux Mint Serena
Keyboard: Logitech - G910 Orion Spectrum RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech - G502 Wired Optical Mouse
Headphones: Logitech - G430 7.1 Channel  Headset
Speakers: Logitech - Z506 155W 5.1ch Speakers

 

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Just now, JennyMendez said:

Ok thank you. How much space on the SSD do you recommend. I am thinking about a 250 GB one because it is not too expensive.

I'd generally say 120GB as the minimum. While you can install the OS and some programs on less than that, you'd be constantly having to manage the data on it to keep it from running out of space. 

 

250GB is a good size for the OS drive. It allows for pretty much all of your programs to be installed on it (unless you have a ridiculous amount of programs) and possibly a few games. 

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Better check if it comes with spare SATA ports when it comes. If it does support more storage drives, I'd recommend one at about 250GB, possibly 500GB if you can afford it. The usual names are Samsung 850 evo, Crucial MX300 and Sk Hynix SL308. Adata's SU800 and WD Blue are the second tier options.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

Better check if it comes with spare SATA ports when it comes. If it does support more storage drives, I'd recommend one at about 250GB, possibly 500GB if you can afford it. The usual names are Samsung 850 evo, Crucial MX300 and Sk Hynix SL308. Adata's SU800 and WD Blue are the second tier options.

How do I check to see if it comes with SATA ports? There were no results for it.

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1 minute ago, JennyMendez said:

Ok thank you. This might sound like a dumb question but how do I install the OS on the SSD. The computer I'm getting already has Windows 10 and I am not sure what to do.

Easiest way is to download the media creation tool from Microsoft and make a WIndows 10 install USB. Then you boot to the USB and select the drive to install Windows to. You'll need the Windows key, which will normally be provided with the system when it arrives. Pre-built computers tend to come with the documentation for the parts used and the Windows packaging, which will have the key in it. Sometimes the system may have a sticker on it with the Windows key. 

 

I would advise disconnecting the HDD that it comes with first before booting into the Windows installer. If you find that something goes wrong or the key doesn't work, you can still use the HDD for the time being. 

 

https://www.microsoft.com/nb-no/software-download/windows10

 

That link is actually for Norway due to my VPN, but it should auto-direct you to your country (just in case you're wondering why it's in Norwegian if ti doesn't re-direct you. 

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4 minutes ago, JennyMendez said:

How do I check to see if it comes with SATA ports? There were no results for it.

open it when it arrives. 99% the cases it will come with 4 SATA ports, but I'm not certain since it is a prebuilt after all and could use a custom motherboard

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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7 minutes ago, JennyMendez said:

How do I check to see if it comes with SATA ports? There were no results for it.

It does, don't worry. It has 5 SATA 3 ports.

 

It may not come with extra SATA data cables though, so you may need to buy some. 

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3 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

open it when it arrives. 99% the cases it will come with 4 SATA ports, but I'm not certain since it is a prebuilt after all and could use a custom motherboard

It has 5 SATA 3 ports. It seems to use HP's Thimphu-K board. 

 

https://support.hp.com/ro-en/document/c05369438

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8 minutes ago, Oshino Shinobu said:

snip

The other issue might be the PSU need adapters for Molex-SATA. 

Cor Caeruleus Reborn v6

Spoiler

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K

CPU Cooler: be quiet! - PURE ROCK 
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste 
Motherboard: ASRock Z370 Extreme4
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ RGB 2x8GB 3200/14
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive 
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA - 970 SSC ACX (1080 is in RMA)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA P2 750W with CableMod blue/black Pro Series
Optical Drive: LG - WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer 
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit and Linux Mint Serena
Keyboard: Logitech - G910 Orion Spectrum RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech - G502 Wired Optical Mouse
Headphones: Logitech - G430 7.1 Channel  Headset
Speakers: Logitech - Z506 155W 5.1ch Speakers

 

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My recommendation is similar to what Oshino Shinobu recommended; 

 

when the computer arrives verify that the license is activated.

 

Part 1: Connect to the internet and type "This PC" into the start menu.

Right click the "This PC" Icon and left click properties. Verify that windows is genuine and activated (typically at the bottom of the properties dialoge).

After verifying it is a genuine activated copy Windows with internet access sends this information registering the system to that license. I have yet to see a situation where changing the disk caused the license to be invalidated. It will typically involve changing the motherboard and sometimes CPU to cause this to happen. If you are super paranoid you can get the license info by utilizing something like ProduKey < http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/product_cd_key_viewer.html > the software has it's own readme so I'll spare you.

 

Part 2: Download and install a fresh copy of Win 10

download the windows 10 media creation tool < https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10ISO > (your choice on the creators edition or not)

follow the prompts to create a bootable USB or ISO to burn to a disk (once again work with what you have it's up to you)

Now power off the machine and turn off the power supply.

disconnect the existing HDD and connect the SSD (at this point only the SSD is connected to the motherboard)

insert the USB drive or freshly burned ISO and navigate your bios to instruct it to boot from the bootable media you've chosen.

Follow the prompts ensuring you select the option for "Custom: Install Winodws only (advanced)

after selecting Custom you will be taken to the "Where do you want to install windows?" dialogue. Your SSD should be listed here.

With an SSD it is best practice to under provision the drive by roughly 10% this value is entered in MB . Use maths and a simple website like http://www.matisse.net/bitcalc/ to perform your calculations the values entered are in MB so 128GB exactly would be in MB 131072MB minus 10% would result in a drive that is 117965MB (rounded up) or 115.2GB

There are plenty of articles on why this is a best practice when it comes to SSDs so I will not be explaining that here; however, it is your decision whether or not you choose to.follow the rest of the prompts a few other very small partitions will be created on the drive this is fine. Highlight the largest partition and select next to begin the installation.When the machine reboots ensure you remove the USB key or eject the disc if you elected to permanently change the boot order (I recommend changing it back if you did) after the machine boots into windows you may follow the prompts and select or deselect the plethora of settings presented however you like, with one exception. When you are prompted to enter the license select "do this later". Odds are after windows has reached the desktop and you connect to the internet (choose your flavor whether Ethernet or WiFi) and you follow the first part of my response. You'' be delighted to see that Microsoft is already tracking your every move including your license key registered to your system. If not and the PC master race gods are frowning upon you, and you utilized software such as I mentioned above to extract your Win 10 product key you can now click the link to enter that key.

 

Kinda Part 3: If I were you I would now connect and reformat the HDD that came included with your system so that it doesn't conflict with your new install at boot. You can do this with one of several bootable USB tools or, once again you can dictate via the bios which drive you boot from and perform a format of that drive within your brand new high speed low drag copy of Win 10 you just installed.

 

Recommendations: something I would highly recommend is to utilize it to offload some of the I/O and storage burden on the SSD by moving your home directory ( Files  Contained within C:\Users\"your_username") folders onto the HDD and away from the SSD as these locations usually become populated with files that very few people see a benefit from storing them on their SSD. You can google methods to do this or utilize the instructions at this link < http://www.dummies.com/computers/operating-systems/windows-10/how-to-change-the-location-of-user-folders-in-windows-10/ > This can be done with the "documents", "Pictures" "Desktop" etc.... not only do you save some precious space on those NAND chips but you potentially save some reads and writes.

 

Happy computing!

 

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