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16 hours ago, Just.Oblivious said:

Try contacting Netgear first, most Prosafe switches come with a limited lifetime warranty.

already contacted them. Since I bought this off eBay they can't help me

 

edit:

 

It used to work just fine so the eBay seller didn't ship a faulty unit

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8 hours ago, pwakham said:

already contacted them. Since I bought this off eBay they can't help me

 

edit:

 

It used to work just fine so the eBay seller didn't ship a faulty unit

If this switch is used in a business environment: contact Netgear and buy the proper replacement part.

 

If not: bodge in a different power supply with the same voltage and current rating (12V, 7.5A from a quick search).

Home theater gaming rig: AMD 5800X, Asus TUF Radeon 6900 XT, 32 GB, 65" LG C1 OLED, custom chassis (link to build log)

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23 hours ago, Just.Oblivious said:

If this switch is used in a business environment: contact Netgear and buy the proper replacement part.

 

If not: bodge in a different power supply with the same voltage and current rating (12V, 7.5A from a quick search).

It's used in a home business environment and they don't sell replacement power supplies since it's an internal power supply. I can't register it because it's already been registered under the guy that I bought it from eBay from. I'll see If i can do a new power supply but like I said its internal and I'm pretty sure a cap blew

IMG_4093.JPG

IMG_4094.JPG

IMG_4095.JPG

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4 hours ago, pwakham said:

It's used in a home business environment and they don't sell replacement power supplies since it's an internal power supply. I can't register it because it's already been registered under the guy that I bought it from eBay from. I'll see If i can do a new power supply but like I said its internal and I'm pretty sure a cap blew

IMG_4093.JPG

IMG_4094.JPG

IMG_4095.JPG

The blue things in your pictures are MOV's (metal oxide varistors). If they fail you'd see a scorch mark on the board, along with a loud pop and a trip to the breaker panel after plugging it in :) The white stuff you see is (silastic) glue to hold the larger components in place, that's normal for a power supply.

 

You can find used (salvaged) Delta power supplies for this switch on Ebay, but given the high failure rate there is a high chance that it'll soon just fail as well.

 

Another option is to wire in a different power supply using the original connector (just chop it). If you can't find a PSU that fits inside the enclosure you can always run the 12v supply lines outside the case through the cutout for the IEC connector (after removing it).

Home theater gaming rig: AMD 5800X, Asus TUF Radeon 6900 XT, 32 GB, 65" LG C1 OLED, custom chassis (link to build log)

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3 hours ago, Just.Oblivious said:

The blue things in your pictures are MOV's (metal oxide varistors). If they fail you'd see a scorch mark on the board, along with a loud pop and a trip to the breaker panel after plugging it in :) The white stuff you see is (silastic) glue to hold the larger components in place, that's normal for a power supply.

 

You can find used (salvaged) Delta power supplies for this switch on Ebay, but given the high failure rate there is a high chance that it'll soon just fail as well.

 

Another option is to wire in a different power supply using the original connector (just chop it). If you can't find a PSU that fits inside the enclosure you can always run the 12v supply lines outside the case through the cutout for the IEC connector (after removing it).

is there a way i can run the cables outside of the enclosure and solder on a 12v dc jack from a laptop and use an ac adapter?

 

edit 

Obviously with the right specs but those are easy enoguh to find. from what ive found it needs to be at least 70 watts 

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1 minute ago, pwakham said:

is there a way i can run the cables outside of the enclosure and solder on a 12v dc jack from a laptop and use an ac adapter?

if you're comfortable with a soldering iron, then yes. Just make sure that the connectors and cables you use all have a current rating of at least 10 Amps.

 

Running cables outside the enclosure shouldn't be a problem, you can remove the mains connector and use that giant hole to run your low voltage cables.

Home theater gaming rig: AMD 5800X, Asus TUF Radeon 6900 XT, 32 GB, 65" LG C1 OLED, custom chassis (link to build log)

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Just now, Just.Oblivious said:

if you're comfortable with a soldering iron, then yes. Just make sure that the connectors and cables you use all have a current rating of at least 10 Amps.

 

Running cables outside the enclosure shouldn't be a problem, you can remove the mains connector and use that giant hole to run your low voltage cables.

Yes I am comfortable with a soldering iron. What I am planning on doing is running the cables to the mains connector that I will take off, mounting the dc jack from the laptop to where that connector used to go  that way none of the cables will be outside of the enclosure. 

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Just now, pwakham said:

Yes I am comfortable with a soldering iron. What I am planning on doing is running the cables to the mains connector that I will take off, mounting the dc jack from the laptop to where that connector used to go  that way none of the cables will be outside of the enclosure. 

Sounds like a good plan.

Home theater gaming rig: AMD 5800X, Asus TUF Radeon 6900 XT, 32 GB, 65" LG C1 OLED, custom chassis (link to build log)

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1 minute ago, pwakham said:

only concern I have is that there are 8 cables running to the board

 

You don't think its just a bad fuse do you lmao

Pictures of the PSU, cables and the board? Are there four red and four black wires coming out?

 

You can safely twist them together if they're all just connected in parallel on the PSU and on the board.

Home theater gaming rig: AMD 5800X, Asus TUF Radeon 6900 XT, 32 GB, 65" LG C1 OLED, custom chassis (link to build log)

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The three red wires going from the PSU to the main board are the +12v lines, the three black wires are the grounds.

 

It's a single rail PSU, so no need to do anything special.

Home theater gaming rig: AMD 5800X, Asus TUF Radeon 6900 XT, 32 GB, 65" LG C1 OLED, custom chassis (link to build log)

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