Jump to content

So I start with that right now I have thermaltakes ultamate water 360 AIO with 3 Noctua 120mm 3000PWM IPPC fans and it works good but I want to upgrade to a custom loop so I can get better temps and include my gpu to watercooling eventually. My case is an NZXT H630 and all the hard drive cages are out and the support bracket on the bottom out too. I can remove the 2 drive bays too and I probably will remove them. Right now I'm trying to find a triple 120mm rad for the front and it does not matter how thick it is but I want to get the most performance one but I can't figure it out. I've looked around and I have some ideas but I'm not really sure. But like I said before I only know a little but I want to get the best so I don't have to upgrade my cooling again. So if anybody can help that would be awesome.

 

My specs 

Cpu: Core I7-5820k @ 4.7Ghz on all cores

Motherboard: ASRock - Fatal1ty X99 Professional Gaming i7

Gpu: EVGA 1070 FTW

Ram: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory

Case: NZXT H630

 

Link to comment
https://linustechtips.com/topic/843025-im-stumpedhelp-with-custom-liquid-cooling/
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Rad performance is a matter of thickness and fins per inch, these are restrictions so generally a good idea to get more powerful fans for more restrictive rads

desktop

Spoiler

r5 3600,3450@0.9v (0.875v get) 4.2ghz@1.25v (1.212 get) | custom loop cpu&gpu 1260mm nexxos xt45 | MSI b450i gaming ac | crucial ballistix 2x8 3000c15->3733c15@1.39v(1.376v get) |Zotac 2060 amp | 256GB Samsung 950 pro nvme | 1TB Adata su800 | 4TB HGST drive | Silverstone SX500-LG

HTPC

Spoiler

HTPC i3 7300 | Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H | 16GB G Skill | Adata XPG SX8000 128GB M.2 | Many HDDs | Rosewill FBM-01 | Corsair CXM 450W

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

He already has some of the highest rated static pressure fans. 

Find the thickest you can with 30fpi or something. Id settle around 20~ and just deal with the temps. 

Main RIg Lian Li O11 MINI, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, BigDogMaxx said:

So I start with that right now I have thermaltakes ultamate water 360 AIO with 3 Noctua 120mm 3000PWM IPPC fans and it works good but I want to upgrade to a custom loop so I can get better temps and include my gpu to watercooling eventually. My case is an NZXT H630 and all the hard drive cages are out and the support bracket on the bottom out too. I can remove the 2 drive bays too and I probably will remove them. Right now I'm trying to find a triple 120mm rad for the front and it does not matter how thick it is but I want to get the most performance one but I can't figure it out. I've looked around and I have some ideas but I'm not really sure. But like I said before I only know a little but I want to get the best so I don't have to upgrade my cooling again. So if anybody can help that would be awesome.

 

My specs 

Cpu: Core I7-5820k @ 4.7Ghz on all cores

Motherboard: ASRock - Fatal1ty X99 Professional Gaming i7

Gpu: EVGA 1070 FTW

Ram: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory

Case: NZXT H630

 

Hardware labs is a company that has changed the way how you can configure your radiators. They have a various line up of high performance radiators and even higher performance radiators while keeping the radiators of a understandable size and not too THICC where the fans can't even push the air properly through the fins for most cases, even the ones you think a radiator and fans can't go it. Even though you have the Noctua fans you not have to run them at 12v with Hardware Labs radiators thus keeping the PC's noise level at a minimum.

 

What you would want is a D5 pump as they are very strong, reliable and quiet. 

 

With the  NZXT H630, i would do a 360mm in the top in a pull configuration out the top and a 140mm in the back in a push configuration as well and leave the front and bottom for cool air intake while removing the HDD cages i don't need because the  NZXT H630 is designed for a minimalist design which would indicate the lack of proper air flow throughout the case as they would seal off most openings and add sound dampening which both will create a real issue if the radiators are in front or the bottom. Now if you have a very low ambient where you need to use heat all year round then you can disregard this and do what you wish as the low ambient will compensate nicely.

 

Have you considered if you will be using soft/hard tubing?...use soft tube if you don't have experience + time + patience + tools need for hard tube. note if you use soft tube and wish to do hard tube know that the fitting will need to be changed because hard tube needs special fittings. So study your preferences, confidence and budget choices wisely because to the impatient/incapable it can create system wide destruction and frustrate you to the point of hating custom loops.

 

Tips:-

  1. leak test outside your case. You can make your loop inside the case but dismantle it and then reassemble it outside to leak test it just until you get experienced and confident enough to leak test inside you system.
  2. when leak testing remember to unplug the  MOBO supplemental and 24pin as well as the SATA power for the hard disks.
  3. never run the pump dry
  4. properly flush the radiator before use
  5. purchase extra tube than you will actually need the first time because there WILL be mistakes
  6. get PWM fan splitters/hubs
  7. enjoy it!

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for helping me. I appreciate any responses I get. I am willing to modify the case to make it better shown by how I already ripped apart the drive cages so I could use just the fan mounts on them. I'm not saying your wrong but I'm not all in either on not putting the radiater in the front because I wanted to use my thermaltake cooler to cool my gpu until I get a gpu block. Im not going for silence by any means either my house is always loud and my computer is in the basement where the ambient temp is probably around 70°f for summer and 60°f or even lower in winter. You said some things that I have not thought about either like testing it out of the case that would be smart lol I have all ready taken out some sound dampening padding so it would improve airflow and I'm thinking about modding the front cover to increase airflow and decrease resistance.

I have tools and I'm willing to take suggestions to and I will upload some designs of what I think could work to solve any problems with airflow. And I'm going to want to run a push/pull too most likely. I will upload some pictures of my setup too to show what I have now. I did some research and I picked out An EK D5 pump but I don't know if I should go res/pump combo or not. I also found a radiater made by koolance that seems to be the best but I still need to do some more research about it because I saw some post about other fittings not working. But the radiater I was looking at was the koolance HX360XC. So I want to see if that's true. I am planning to go soft tubbing because this is my first custom loop and I'm not the most patient person sometimes but I'm trying to keep the budget under $600.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you use distilled water, you can test and leak all you want in the case. Won't be any issues. I've had countless leaks in my rigs. Dumped the entire res onto my psu, even had water between the board and CPU. Got into windows several times before I figured that one out. 

Main RIg Lian Li O11 MINI, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, BigDogMaxx said:

Thank you for helping me. I appreciate any responses I get. I am willing to modify the case to make it better shown by how I already ripped apart the drive cages so I could use just the fan mounts on them. I'm not saying your wrong but I'm not all in either on not putting the radiater in the front because I wanted to use my thermaltake cooler to cool my gpu until I get a gpu block. Im not going for silence by any means either my house is always loud and my computer is in the basement where the ambient temp is probably around 70°f for summer and 60°f or even lower in winter. You said some things that I have not thought about either like testing it out of the case that would be smart lol I have all ready taken out some sound dampening padding so it would improve airflow and I'm thinking about modding the front cover to increase airflow and decrease resistance.

I have tools and I'm willing to take suggestions to and I will upload some designs of what I think could work to solve any problems with airflow. And I'm going to want to run a push/pull too most likely. I will upload some pictures of my setup too to show what I have now. I did some research and I picked out An EK D5 pump but I don't know if I should go res/pump combo or not. I also found a radiater made by koolance that seems to be the best but I still need to do some more research about it because I saw some post about other fittings not working. But the radiater I was looking at was the koolance HX360XC. So I want to see if that's true. I am planning to go soft tubbing because this is my first custom loop and I'm not the most patient person sometimes but I'm trying to keep the budget under $600.

You have the last say on where you want the radiators or not so go for it. The problems with the air flow will be due to the added heat you will introduce to the case with the radiator in front or the bottom as the fans will push the warm air into the case and be careful with how you mod the case because you do not want to allow dust to easily get in. That Koolance radiator is a really good performer.

 

A push pull set up is up to you just make sure you have the clearance for the top radiator and the 8pin MOBO connector and heatsink for the MOBO, sometimes those can block or be so exact that the wires may kink or the radiator may not screw down fully.

 

Do you plan to add the GPU to the loop or keep it separate from the  EK pump because if you plan to add the GPU to your loop and you plan to add the thermaltake radiator to your loop then make sure the radiator is a copper one and not an aluminum, mixing aluminum with any other metal will make galvanic corrosion in all your blocks. 

 

Another thing, make sure the ID(inner diameter) and OD(outer diameter) of the fittings is the same as the tubing you buy to help prevent leaks. About soft tubing, tygon tubing is some of the best you can get, which is not to say that a box of Primochill advanced LRT will be crap.

 

$600 is a good budget. Do you have one of these cutters you will need it to cut the soft tube properly.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I do not have any cutters that you speak of. may i ask what they are called? And as for the thermaltake I meant my aio and use the kraken g12 and cool it till i get a GPU block so i can add it too the loop and i meant push/pull on the koolance radiator. I will most likely get most of my stuff from EK like fittings, tubing, blocks, coolant, and pumps from them. the one thing that i wont get from them will be the radiator. and for the mod im going to just cut in an opening then JB weld some tiny metal short rods on and then have a dust filter fit snug between the rods and the case. I'm just coping what the manufacturer did on the one side and doing it on the other so there is an opening on both sides or i can cut a big opening in the front and put a better dust filter on it. i have already cover all the small gaps so it does not back feed air at all. and i will be able to still fit a 140mm noctuas on the bottom or maybe 2 if possible to still keep some air coming in. Also if i get the GPU block and add it too the D5 loop, can I use an all in one rad to use in a custom loop?

20171006_190130.thumb.jpg.a9ed5e0f6acbe84506bdbc0e9feef02a.jpg20171006_190115.thumb.jpg.ca5631f89ebfdb06926d8a8a1636c58d.jpgSo I want to take the red out but instead of all that just make the same opening thats on the right on the left too

NZXT_22.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, BigDogMaxx said:

I do not have any cutters that you speak of. may i ask what they are called? And as for the thermaltake I meant my aio and use the kraken g12 and cool it till i get a GPU block so i can add it too the loop and i meant push/pull on the koolance radiator. I will most likely get most of my stuff from EK like fittings, tubing, blocks, coolant, and pumps from them. the one thing that i wont get from them will be the radiator. and for the mod im going to just cut in an opening then JB weld some tiny metal short rods on and then have a dust filter fit snug between the rods and the case. I'm just coping what the manufacturer did on the one side and doing it on the other so there is an opening on both sides or i can cut a big opening in the front and put a better dust filter on it. i have already cover all the small gaps so it does not back feed air at all. and i will be able to still fit a 140mm noctuas on the bottom or maybe 2 if possible to still keep some air coming in. Also if i get the GPU block and add it too the D5 loop, can I use an all in one rad to use in a custom loop?

--gone--

The cutter are just call flex tube cutters any good hardware should have them. 

 

You can use the thermaltake radiator in the custom loop you are planning but like i said make sure the radiator is not aluminum and that the barbs on the thermaltake radiator can be removed and new fittings screwed in, if they can not be removed then you maybe able to use clamps like these but that is only if the other fittings are close to the barbs on the thermaltake radiator, otherwise there maybe leaks.

 

If you take the red out then what do you plan to put to keep the dust out? This is some big modding you are planning. Take a look at this 480mm magnetic air filter maybe you can rig something that would allow you to remove, clean and then replace this to keep most of the dust out because that big red part you would be removing will just allow so much dust in.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Leonard said:

The cutter are just call flex tube cutters any good hardware should have them. 

 

You can use the thermaltake radiator in the custom loop you are planning but like i said make sure the radiator is not aluminum and that the barbs on the thermaltake radiator can be removed and new fittings screwed in, if they can not be removed then you maybe able to use clamps like these but that is only if the other fittings are close to the barbs on the thermaltake radiator, otherwise there maybe leaks.

 

If you take the red out then what do you plan to put to keep the dust out? This is some big modding you are planning. Take a look at this 480mm magnetic air filter maybe you can rig something that would allow you to remove, clean and then replace this to keep most of the dust out because that big red part you would be removing will just allow so much dust in.

thanks for the tip this dust filter is perfect and ill do some research into the thermaltake

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, if you want the best performance for your radiator. The GTR NEEDS push/pull or it performs WORSE. 

 

1. Hardware Labs Nemesis GTR 360 - 54mm

2. Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX 360 - 54mm

3. Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 360 - 35mm 

Keep in mind these take up a TON of space, if you want your reservoir to be mounted on the radiator or near the front, you will probably have to go with the Hardware Labs GTS 360 In the front. 

Next, on the top of your case. I would choose a Hardware Labs GTS 360 (GTS lineup are the best preforming slim radiators), this should be exhaust. 

 

You want a D5 Pump, and assuming you want a tube reservoir, I would choose any of these for your reservoir(other combos are more complicated, so going with these would let you have an easier setup time):

 

1. EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM - has a pump included

2. EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM Glass - has a pump included

 

Next: Tubing. You can either do soft or hard tubes. Hard tubing is a lot more difficult for first timers and you have to learn how to bend it and also buy a heat gun. 

 

Soft tube:

1.  PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing - 3/8in. ID x 1/2in. OD

Only go with this one, will NEVER clog up nor stain.

 

Hard tube:

1. Any PETG Hard tubing with a 12mm OD, (I do not trust thermaltake on tubing as their other stuff is pretty unreliable)

This MUST be metric, as some fittings do NOT work with imperial measured tubing. 12mm OD, 12mm Fitting, metric/13mm OD, 13mm Fitting. DO NOT RISK THIS.

 

Fittings: 

Soft tubing: 

1. EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm

2. PrimoChill 3/8in. x 1/2in. FlexSX Series Compression Fitting 

3. Bitspower (its complicated, I wouldn't bother with bitspower if soft tube.

 

Hard Tubing: 

1. Bitspower G1/4" Enhance Multi-Link For Acrylic Tube OD 12MM

2. EK-HDC Fitting 12mm G1/4 

3. PrimoChill 1/2in. Rigid RevolverSX Series Fitting

 

Angled Fittings: Bitspower has the best selection, so I will link those and a few from Ek.

1. Bitspower G1/4" Rotary 90-Degree IG1/4" Extender

2. Bitspower G1/4" Rotary 45-Degree IG1/4" Extender

3. EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 

4. EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 

 

Other Fittings:

1. Bitspower T-Block With Triple IG1/4" <-- This is a T-Splitter, use this in conjunction with a extender (#2) and a drain (#3 or #4)

2. Bitspower Dual IG1/4" Extender-20MM

3. Bitspower Mini Valve

4. EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) 

 

Waterblocks: 

1. EK-FC1080 GTX FTW2 - Nickel <-- GPU Block, This does not look right, but according to EK's compatability list, it is (strangely enough).

2. EK-Supremacy EVO X99

3. XSPC RayStorm Pro RGB (Intel) 

4. HEATKILLER IV PRO (INTEL processor)

5. Bitspower CPU Block Summit EF-X

 

So I hope this helps! :D If you have any questions just ask!

Watercooling Pro & Keyboard Enthusiast!

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 10/7/2017 at 8:50 AM, Tech22 said:

Ok, if you want the best performance for your radiator. The GTR NEEDS push/pull or it performs WORSE. 

 

1. Hardware Labs Nemesis GTR 360 - 54mm

2. Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX 360 - 54mm

3. Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 360 - 35mm 

Keep in mind these take up a TON of space, if you want your reservoir to be mounted on the radiator or near the front, you will probably have to go with the Hardware Labs GTS 360 In the front. 

Next, on the top of your case. I would choose a Hardware Labs GTS 360 (GTS lineup are the best preforming slim radiators), this should be exhaust. 

 

You want a D5 Pump, and assuming you want a tube reservoir, I would choose any of these for your reservoir(other combos are more complicated, so going with these would let you have an easier setup time):

 

1. EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM - has a pump included

2. EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM Glass - has a pump included

 

Next: Tubing. You can either do soft or hard tubes. Hard tubing is a lot more difficult for first timers and you have to learn how to bend it and also buy a heat gun. 

 

Soft tube:

1.  PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing - 3/8in. ID x 1/2in. OD

Only go with this one, will NEVER clog up nor stain.

 

Hard tube:

1. Any PETG Hard tubing with a 12mm OD, (I do not trust thermaltake on tubing as their other stuff is pretty unreliable)

This MUST be metric, as some fittings do NOT work with imperial measured tubing. 12mm OD, 12mm Fitting, metric/13mm OD, 13mm Fitting. DO NOT RISK THIS.

 

Fittings: 

Soft tubing: 

1. EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm

2. PrimoChill 3/8in. x 1/2in. FlexSX Series Compression Fitting 

3. Bitspower (its complicated, I wouldn't bother with bitspower if soft tube.

 

Hard Tubing: 

1. Bitspower G1/4" Enhance Multi-Link For Acrylic Tube OD 12MM

2. EK-HDC Fitting 12mm G1/4 

3. PrimoChill 1/2in. Rigid RevolverSX Series Fitting

 

Angled Fittings: Bitspower has the best selection, so I will link those and a few from Ek.

1. Bitspower G1/4" Rotary 90-Degree IG1/4" Extender

2. Bitspower G1/4" Rotary 45-Degree IG1/4" Extender

3. EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 

4. EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 

 

Other Fittings:

1. Bitspower T-Block With Triple IG1/4" <-- This is a T-Splitter, use this in conjunction with a extender (#2) and a drain (#3 or #4)

2. Bitspower Dual IG1/4" Extender-20MM

3. Bitspower Mini Valve

4. EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) 

 

Waterblocks: 

1. EK-FC1080 GTX FTW2 - Nickel <-- GPU Block, This does not look right, but according to EK's compatability list, it is (strangely enough).

2. EK-Supremacy EVO X99

3. XSPC RayStorm Pro RGB (Intel) 

4. HEATKILLER IV PRO (INTEL processor)

5. Bitspower CPU Block Summit EF-X

 

So I hope this helps! :D If you have any questions just ask!

Where did this Hardware labs radiater come from?

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, BigDogMaxx said:

Is the Hardware Labs Nemesis GTR 360 Gen 4 Better then the Koolance HX-360XC? Im still doing some research on both

According to ThermalBench (my favorite fan + radiator reviewer), they are the best radiators you can currently buy.

GTS

GTX

GTR

 

The Koolance HX-360XC is pretty good at 1500+ RPM (according to xtremerigs), but is one of the worst with lower RPM, same principal as the GTR, except it is not as good. 

Watercooling Pro & Keyboard Enthusiast!

Link to post
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Tech22 said:

According to ThermalBench (my favorite fan + radiator reviewer), they are the best radiators you can currently buy.

GTS

GTX

GTR

 

The Koolance HX-360XC is pretty good at 1500+ RPM (according to xtremerigs), but is one of the worst with lower RPM, same principal as the GTR, except it is not as good. 

So What if My fans lowest speed is like 1000 and they go up to 3000. Should i go for the HW Labs rad or with the koolance? And If the HW labs ones are better then which one lol? My Fans are Noctuas 120mm 3000PWM IPPC and the have a static pressure of 7,63 mm H₂O and 186,7 m³/h or 109.887 CFM at full speed

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 10/15/2017 at 10:57 AM, BigDogMaxx said:

So What if My fans lowest speed is like 1000 and they go up to 3000. Should i go for the HW Labs rad or with the koolance? And If the HW labs ones are better then which one lol? My Fans are Noctuas 120mm 3000PWM IPPC and the have a static pressure of 7,63 mm H₂O and 186,7 m³/h or 109.887 CFM at full speed

If you want to run them at higher RPM, go with the GTX. If you run high RPM PUSH/PULL then GTR. If you run low RPM then go for the GTS. 

Watercooling Pro & Keyboard Enthusiast!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Oxidized. Nothing you can do as its to be expected. Simple rinse and let it be.

 

Main RIg Lian Li O11 MINI, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×