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Information and resources for fixing Logitech G402 buttons (applies to other mice, too)

The middle mouse button click on my G402 started acting up over the last 2 or 3 weeks. Sometimes clicking web links once would open two tabs instead of one, and more recently the middle mouse button has stopped working on and off - but, if I push down on the middle button very strongly, the button will still work. So, it seems that my middle mouse button is showing what are common signs of a switch failure due to being worn out.

 

It took a lot of searching to find the information to replace this button, so I thought I'd compile it someplace to make things easier for other people.

 

 

 

A) Temporary fix

 

The problem can be temporarily addressed by opening up the mouse and bending the metal pieces inside the switches back into a shape that engages the switch, but from what I've read that fix lasts weeks to months, but isn't a long-term solution. A couple of guides on how to do that are here:

 

https://community.pcgamingwiki.com/page/blog/_/features/modding-guides/double-click-problem-faulty-mouse-button-repair-r152

 

 

 

 

B) Full fix

 

A more lasting solution is to de-solder a worn button and to solder in a new one, which is what I plan to do. The switches can be replaced with different brands and models of the same shape and connector-type, but these are the original switches:

 

For the left and right buttons, the G402 uses Omron D2FC-F-7N switches, rated at 20 million clicks. - purchase link

For the middle mouse button, it uses an Omron B3F-1000 switch, rated at 1 million clicks. - purchase link

For the other buttons, it uses Himake White switches, which are rated at only 300, 000 clicks. - purchase link

 

 

To open up the G402 mouse, the plastic pads on the bottom of the mouse, the feet, need to be pulled off to reveal the screws underneath them that hold the mouse together.

 

The old feet can be put back on afterwards, though new G402 mouse feet can be ordered separately, and would probably be a more satisfying solution: purchase link

 

 

Here's a video of a person desoldering some old switches on the G402 and soldering in new switches:

 

 

 

Switch replacement options

 

There are some other brands, like TTC and HUANO. Different brands, and different versions of micro switches in the Omron D2F series vary in feel, sound, weight, and mechanical life, and which ones are used can be personal preference.

 

For example, I saw somebody mention that they like these HUANO micro switches, which are rated for 8 million clicks: purchase link

 

I really like the default left and right mouse buttons clicks on the G402, more than the left and right mouse button clicks on the G502 (because they're quieter). So, I'm going to use those switches for all the similar micro switch replacements that I make in my G402 mouse. I think that Omron D2FC-F-7N is a common switch used in different mice.

 

For more information and user feedback on the variety of choices to replace mouse button switches with, this is a great thread.

 

Here's a video demonstrating the differences between different mice that use different switches for their left and right clicks - and each example is shown which brand and model of switch is being used:

 

 

 

 

-------------------------------

 

So, I've ordered both some Omron B3F-1000 switches and some Omron D2FC-F-7N, and while I'm replacing the middle mouse button with the B3F-1000, I'm also going to replace one or two of the Himake White side switches that I use the most often with new Omron D2FC-F-7N switches, just so it won't be likely that they'll ever go bad on me and require me to open up the mouse again.

 

 

BTW, the B3F-1000 is also used for the middle mouse button in the Logitech G602. I think that the G502 uses a different switch.

 

One more source for information on the G402 internals.

 

Here's an image of the inside of a G402 mouse. The drawn-on numbers can be ignored, as they were just already on the image that I found of the open mouse. There's a much larger version of the image here.

 

59bb8c1121c99_LogitechG4022000.thumb.jpg.a0d78bb617e7b9c4e650491c38c12290.jpg

 

 

Here's what the Omron D2FC-F-7N micro switches look like on their own.

 

59bcd0af650b0_OmronD2FC-F-7N.jpg.624423ff5d7ff0ccbbd9d15138f85807.jpg

 

 

 

And here's what the middle mouse button switch looks like on its own.

 

59bb8ea1c1d69_B3F1000.jpg.f545647cbc4da7aff16c7df9bbbb8f4e.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Another part I'm interested in replacing in my G402 mouse is the angled clear plastic piece that the optical sensor reflects off of, though I haven't yet looked into whether that part can be bought someplace on its own.

You own the software that you purchase - Understanding software licenses and EULAs

 

"We’ll know our disinformation program is complete when everything the american public believes is false" - William Casey, CIA Director 1981-1987

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More pics for references

 

 

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also removing the G3/G4 is the pain in the ass

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How long have you owned this G402 mouse? I have one and love it. I actually bought 2 just in case. (going for $40 as of now)

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useful

 

my spare g502 is damaged with milk tea.. 

Ryzen 5 3600 stock | 2x16GB C13 3200MHz (AFR) | GTX 760 (Sold the VII)| ASUS Prime X570-P | 6TB WD Gold (128MB Cache, 2017)

Samsung 850 EVO 240 GB 

138 is a good number.

 

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8 minutes ago, BeefyMeats said:

How long have you owned this G402 mouse? I have one and love it. I actually bought 2 just in case. (going for $40 as of now)

I've owned it for 3 years. Logitech's warranty is for 2 years, so if it had stopped working within the warranty period, I'd just have gotten a replacement from Logitech. This G402 was actually a warranty replacement for the G400 mouse that I had before, the cable for which crapped out. I still have that G400 mouse, and would like to fix its cable if it's possible.

 

Dealing with Logitech for the warranty was a PITA, though. I don't think they still have the stellar customer service that they were once known for.

 

Just now, themctipers said:

useful

 

my spare g502 is damaged with milk tea.. 

One thing that you could try, though someone else might want to chime in on this, is buying a bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol from a drug store (sometime they need to be asked for over the counter) and then just pouring it all into the mouse from the mousewheel hole - while the mouse is disconnected, and probably outdoors. The 99% alcohol washes and cleans stuff away pretty good, and the residue evapourates in seconds after it's drained off.

 

I'd just be cautious about whether there are any greased parts in the mouse, as the alcohol might wash the grease away.

You own the software that you purchase - Understanding software licenses and EULAs

 

"We’ll know our disinformation program is complete when everything the american public believes is false" - William Casey, CIA Director 1981-1987

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1 minute ago, Delicieuxz said:

I've owned it for 3 years. Logitech's warranty is for 2 years, so if it had stopped working within the warranty period, I'd just have gotten a replacement from Logitech. This G402 was actually a warranty replacement for the G400 mouse that I had before, the cable for which crapped out. I still have that G400 mouse, and would like to fix its cable if it's possible.

 

Dealing with Logitech for the warranty was a PITA, though. I don't think they still have the stellar customer service that they were once known for.

 

One thing that you could try, though someone else might want to chime in on this, is buying a bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol from a drug store (sometime they need to be asked for over the counter) and then just pouring it all into the mouse from the mousewheel hole - while the mouse is disconnected, and probably outdoors. The 99% alcohol washes and cleans stuff away pretty good, and the residue evapourates in seconds after it's drained off.

 

I'd just be cautious about whether there are any greased parts in the mouse, as the alcohol might wash the grease away.

I don't have access to alcohol sadly.. I ran out a couple of weeks ago..

 

Pretty much the switches are completely fucked, the clicks are wrong, some don't even nudge, but the sensing/primary/secondary/scroll should work.

Ryzen 5 3600 stock | 2x16GB C13 3200MHz (AFR) | GTX 760 (Sold the VII)| ASUS Prime X570-P | 6TB WD Gold (128MB Cache, 2017)

Samsung 850 EVO 240 GB 

138 is a good number.

 

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4 minutes ago, themctipers said:

I don't have access to alcohol sadly.. I ran out a couple of weeks ago..

 

Pretty much the switches are completely fucked, the clicks are wrong, some don't even nudge, but the sensing/primary/secondary/scroll should work.

99% isoproyl alcohol isn't drinking alcohol, and is poisonous to drink. It's used for sanitization, as a solvent, and other things. I don't know if there'd be any age restriction on buying it over the counter. It costs like $1 - 3 for a bottle, so it's cheap stuff.

 

It might clean out your switches easily. Might - don't know for sure.

You own the software that you purchase - Understanding software licenses and EULAs

 

"We’ll know our disinformation program is complete when everything the american public believes is false" - William Casey, CIA Director 1981-1987

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Just now, Delicieuxz said:

99% isoproyl alcohol isn't drinking alcohol, and is poisonous to drink. It's used for sanitization, as a solvent, and other things. I don't know if there'd be any age restriction on buying it over the counter. It costs like $1 - 3 for a bottle, so it's cheap stuff.

Canada is weird..  

 

Mom, get some more rubbing alcohol! 

Ryzen 5 3600 stock | 2x16GB C13 3200MHz (AFR) | GTX 760 (Sold the VII)| ASUS Prime X570-P | 6TB WD Gold (128MB Cache, 2017)

Samsung 850 EVO 240 GB 

138 is a good number.

 

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Appreciate the tutorial and sourcing the parts and pictures. I would probably just stab it with my iron and kick it if I had to do this.

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