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Replacing H80i V2 Fans With Noctua's Industrial Fans

I have a delidded 7700K overclocked to 5.0 GHz with an H80i V2.

I get temp spikes with this CPU and cooling and thought that if I will replace Corsair's stock fans with Noctua's industrials fans (NF-F12 3000) I will get a little better and more quiet cooling performance as the industrial fans' RPM is much higher (about 800~) and from what I can understand, Noctua's fans are more effective.

 

The question is, is it true? Will I get better cooling performance? If I will, what improvement should I expect? (so I will know if that's worth the price, which is pretty high...)

 

Thanks.

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3 hours ago, Ilan Yakov said:

I have a delidded 7700K overclocked to 5.0 GHz with an H80i V2.

I get temp spikes with this CPU and cooling and thought that if I will replace Corsair's stock fans with Noctua's industrials fans (NF-F12 3000) I will get a little better and more quiet cooling performance as the industrial fans' RPM is much higher (about 800~) and from what I can understand, Noctua's fans are more effective.

 

The question is, is it true? Will I get better cooling performance? If I will, what improvement should I expect? (so I will know if that's worth the price, which is pretty high...)

 

Thanks.

The performance improvement will be very small, i recommend getting a better aio if you want cooler temps.

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8 minutes ago, MineParker101 said:

The performance improvement will be very small, i recommend getting a better aio if you want cooler temps.

he might be limited to a 120 AIO, so the h80i is kind of the best option. Did you delid with liquid metal?

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Just now, Tiwaz said:

he might be limited to a 120 AIO, so the h80i is kind of the best option. Did you delid with liquid metal?

Actually it is my best option..

And yes, I did delid with liquid metal.

The temp are acceptable but when I'm doing little stuff there are some annoying little spikes.

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1 minute ago, Ilan Yakov said:

Actually it is my best option..

And yes, I did delid with liquid metal.

The temp are acceptable but when I'm doing little stuff there are some annoying little spikes.

that just has to do with the load, i have the same thing, water temperature cant just spike by several degrees and then instantly drop again, for that the thermal capacity of the watercooler is too big. 

Btw did you glue on the lid again or just put it on with only the liquid metal, also what cpu temps are you getting under AIDA64?

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15 minutes ago, Tiwaz said:

that just has to do with the load, i have the same thing, water temperature cant just spike by several degrees and then instantly drop again, for that the thermal capacity of the watercooler is too big. 

Btw did you glue on the lid again or just put it on with only the liquid metal, also what cpu temps are you getting under AIDA64?

Well, that does not mean it will not make the temp spikes a little better or the temps in general, right?

 

I did not glue it back together and just left it as it was.

When running CPU stress test on AIDA64 I get a max of between 73~76 Celsius. 

BTW running on 1.315V in BIOS.

 

From what I can understand, almost any 7700K CPU is getting temp spikes.

Of course I am not looking for a final solution for the temp spikes, just for a little improvement which will be also more quiet.

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11 minutes ago, Ilan Yakov said:

Well, that does not mean it will not make the temp spikes a little better or the temps in general, right?

 

I did not glue it back together and just left it as it was.

When running CPU stress test on AIDA64 I get a max of between 73~76 Celsius. 

BTW running on 1.315V in BIOS.

 

From what I can understand, almost any 7700K CPU is getting temp spikes.

Of course I am not looking for a final solution for the temp spikes, just for a little improvement which will be also more quiet.

wow those are shit temps. I am running 1,33V 4,7ghz with these temps but i didnt delid

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1 hour ago, Tiwaz said:

wow those are shit temps. I am running 1,33V 4,7ghz with these temps but i didnt delid

Well, when I just delidded, I had about 70 max temp.

That is because of that I did not glue the IHS back.

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33 minutes ago, Ilan Yakov said:

Well, when I just delidded, I had about 70 max temp.

That is because of that I did not glue the IHS back.

ususally you get a 15-20°C drop when you relid properly with liquid metal

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The noctua fans will not make a huge temp difference but they'll make a huge noise difference.

 

What are your water temps when your CPU temps are 70C? If you have proper contact from the CPU to the block you should expect the water temps to be within 25C of the CPU temps once they normalize (after extended load). If the water is still cool while the CPU is hot then you likely have a bad mount and poor thermal transfer to the block. (Also keep in mind that you want to keep max water temps below 50C to avoid damage to the pump so adjust your fan curve and OC to keep the water temps below 50).

 

If neither of these things are the issue then you're just exceeding the max TDP the AIO can handle and the only option is an AIO with a larger rad (240, 280 or 360mm), or switching to a beefy air cooler with a higher rated TDP than the H80i. I'd be surprised if this was the case though because my H80i V2 can handle my GPU drawing 300+W while keeping the core temp below 72C and the water temp below 47C, and an OCed 7700k should not be using nearly that much power/making that much heat).

 

Also, if your not doing intake on the AIO I recommend you switch to intake for cooler air.

 

Finally, read my signature and make sure you're not having that issue. If the AIO is getting conflicting instructions from monitoring software the pump and fans will not work correctly and perform poorly.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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6 hours ago, Ilan Yakov said:

I did not glue it back together and just left it as it was.

In addition to what I said above: This could also be you issue. Without the IHS you have a smaller surface area to transfer heat to the block which means higher temps AND it's possible that the height difference without the IHS means you're not getting good contact to the block.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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My old noctuas game getter temps over the crap corsair fans. They only went to 1400. Got the 2k fans as I wouldn't run at 3k. You will get better temps in relation to speed but not so much noise. Should be able to run the fans at 1k and still do better than the corsair fans at max. 

Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz

 

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19 minutes ago, pyrojoe34 said:

The noctua fans will not make a huge temp difference but they'll make a huge noise difference.

 

What are your water temps when your CPU temps are 70C? If you have proper contact from the CPU to the block you should expect the water temps to be within 25C of the CPU temps once they normalize (after extended load). If the water is still cool while the CPU is hot then you likely have a bad mount and poor thermal transfer to the block. (Also keep in mind that you want to keep max water temps below 50C to avoid damage to the pump so adjust your fan curve and OC to keep the water temps below 50).

 

If neither of these things are the issue then you're just exceeding the max TDP the AIO can handle and the only option is an AIO with a larger rad (240, 280 or 360mm), or switching to a beefy air cooler with a higher rated TDP than the H80i. I'd be surprised if this was the case though because my H80i V2 can handle my GPU drawing 300+W while keeping the core temp below 72C and the water temp below 47C, and an OCed 7700k should not be using nearly that much power/making that much heat).

 

Also, if your not doing intake on the AIO I recommend you switch to intake for cooler air.

 

Finally, read my signature and make sure you're not having that issue. If the AIO is getting conflicting instructions from monitoring software the pump and fans will not work correctly and perform poorly.

First, thank you for answering.

How can I check the water temp? If it's the reading of "H80i v2 temp" on Corsair Link then no, it does not get any close to 50C.

 

The AIO is already placed as intake. I am pretty sure that the pump and fans works just fine.

Even if I wanted to switch to a better AIO with a bigger rad, I won't be able to do that since I have Zalman Z11 Plus.

I do not believe the block is getting a bad contact with the CPU, everything is installed and mounted correctly. Might be the unglued IHS though but probably should not matter that much.

Probably one of the factors is that it's very very hot where I live.

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32 minutes ago, Mick Naughty said:

My old noctuas game getter temps over the crap corsair fans. They only went to 1400. Got the 2k fans as I wouldn't run at 3k. You will get better temps in relation to speed but not so much noise. Should be able to run the fans at 1k and still do better than the corsair fans at max. 

Thank you for the answer. I decided at last to get Noctua's fans instead of Corsair's stock fans.

Faster, more quiet and more efficient.

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Just now, Ilan Yakov said:

First, thank you for answering.

How can I check the water temp? If it's the reading of "H80i v2 temp" on Corsair Link then no, it does not get any close to 50C.

 

The AIO is already placed as intake. I am pretty sure that the pump and fans works just fine.

Even if I wanted to switch to a better AIO with a bigger rad, I won't be able to do that since I have Zalman Z11 Plus.

I do not believe the block is getting a bad contact with the CPU, everything is installed and mounted correctly. Might be the unglued IHS though but probably should not matter that much.

Probably one of the factors is that it's very very hot where I live.

The "H80i v2 temp" is the water temp. What is your water temp when the CPU is at 70C? (When your CPU is 70C, the water temp after about 10min should be 45-48C with a good mount).

 

If it is not within 25C (after the temps are normalized) then the issue is 100% bad heat transfer. The two main reasons for this are a bad mount of the block (i.e. not perfectly flush so it's uneven. even 0.1mm difference from one side to another is enough be a bad mount) which is the most common issue with people using Corsair AIOs due to the stiff tubing (you should always mount the block before installing the rad so you can mount it with the tubes relaxed, also screw in a diagonal pattern and only a 1/4 turn at a time so each screw is perfectly even), or the surface area of the chip to block interface is too small (possibly due to not replacing the IHS).

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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15 hours ago, pyrojoe34 said:

The "H80i v2 temp" is the water temp. What is your water temp when the CPU is at 70C? (When your CPU is 70C, the water temp after about 10min should be 45-48C with a good mount).

 

If it is not within 25C (after the temps are normalized) then the issue is 100% bad heat transfer. The two main reasons for this are a bad mount of the block (i.e. not perfectly flush so it's uneven. even 0.1mm difference from one side to another is enough be a bad mount) which is the most common issue with people using Corsair AIOs due to the stiff tubing (you should always mount the block before installing the rad so you can mount it with the tubes relaxed, also screw in a diagonal pattern and only a 1/4 turn at a time so each screw is perfectly even), or the surface area of the chip to block interface is too small (possibly due to not replacing the IHS).

The water temp reaches about 47C.

Everything is mounted and installed properly, for sure.

So once again, I guess the only option left is the unglued IHS.

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Ordered the fans yesterday and they should arrive tomorrow I guess.

I will update, if this will help somehow and provide answers to some other people.

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*Update*

 

There was almost no improvement, sound or performance.

My brother has order X2 of the 140mm for his NH D-15 instead of the stock ones and he is getting about 2~5 temp drop and his fans are much more quiet than mine which is kind of strange.

 

Anyway, hope this will help anyone.

 

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I have a case which can only take a 120 mm radiator. I landed on Arctic Liquid Freezer 120mm since it had a thicker radiator and 2 fans. It's been running great for me for the last few months. I have a 4670k overclocked to 4.6 GHz and at load my temps are usually in the low 60s.

 

For the price (it was around $65 US when I picked it up) it's been a great cooler.

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17 hours ago, argyle said:

I have a case which can only take a 120 mm radiator. I landed on Arctic Liquid Freezer 120mm since it had a thicker radiator and 2 fans. It's been running great for me for the last few months. I have a 4670k overclocked to 4.6 GHz and at load my temps are usually in the low 60s.

 

For the price (it was around $65 US when I picked it up) it's been a great cooler.

I believe the performance of this cooler should be almost the same as my H80i V2.

In addition, almost any 7700K overclocked to 5GHz I have seen produces a lot of heat.

I guess I am going to have to buy a bigger, better case and AIO..

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Can anyone recommend any good case with a 280mm rad option that looks good and is not that expensive?

 

Thanks for the help guys.

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