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Just now, stealth80 said:

I would consider a 240mm AIO, the Kraken X52 seems pretty good based on reviews along with the Corsair H110i

H110i is a 280mm AIO, and one should consider the newer variant of that, the H115i, the counterpart to NZXT's X61/X62 coolers.

If he's looking for a 240mm AIO from corsair, he should look into the H100i V2

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@Zyndo 

cpu- i76800k

gpu- 1080ti

PSU- https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139140

ram- https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231916

case- nzxt phantom case

motherboard- x99 gaming pro carbon

Trying to think if that everything

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1 minute ago, Zyndo said:

H110i is a 280mm AIO, and one should consider the newer variant of that, the H115i, the counterpart to NZXT's X61/X62 coolers.

If he's looking for a 240mm AIO from corsair, he should look into the H100i V2

There ya go, as I said, based on reviews I aint used any of the them, but ye 240/280mm depends on the OP's case

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

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4 minutes ago, Realz said:

@Zyndo @stealth80 Sorry guys im trying to keep up im still trying to learn the beginnings of the tech side of it.

np

 

2 minutes ago, Realz said:

@Zyndo @stealth80 How simple is it to install a closed loop cooler, the coolers you guys are recommending are they one fan?

Usually pretty simple. The ones we are recommending are closed loop yes - they're often called AIO (All in one) by most. To install it's pretty simple provided you have access in your motherboard tray to swap out the cooler. it's a matter of unscrewing the old one from the board (usually thumb screws x4 around the cooler) and then gently twist and pull away - the old paste will probably be hard to break the surface tension. Once you have the actual cooler unshipped, go ahead and remove the fan/radiator, which will be 4x long screws (probably) holding both in. 

 

Clean the old paste from the CPU and clean the surface so it's completely free from old paste then apply a pea sized amount to the CPU (from the new cooler) and switch over any CPU bracket/mounting mechanisms.

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

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4 minutes ago, Realz said:

@Zyndo @stealth80 How simple is it to install a closed loop cooler, the coolers you guys are recommending are they one fan?

Its pretty easy, and there are foolproof instructions on how to do it included with the cooler upon purchase.

No they are not 1 fan. a 240mm AIO (All-In-One cooler, AKA closed loop cooler) consists of 2x120mm fans, a 280mm AIO consists of 2x140MM fans, a 360MM AIO consists of 3x120mm fans.

Example 240: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181103&cm_re=H100i_V2-_-35-181-103-_-Product

 

Example 280:https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181100&cm_re=H115i-_-35-181-100-_-Product

 

Example 360: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835352030&cm_re=S36-_-35-352-030-_-Product

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Realz said:

Stick with the 240mm solutions that @Zyndo listed, your case seems to only support 240mm "Clearance for top 240mm dual radiator for water cooling solutions"

 

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Just for reference. My 6800k at 4.0Ghz 1.227V maxes out at about 63C during extended stress tests using a 280mm AIO (Corsair h110i GTX) at about 40-50% fan speeds in exhaust config and max liquid temp is about 47C (I set my fan curve to ramp up rapidly at 48C and hit 85% at 50C so the liquid temp is never above 50C). Could probably drop the fan speeds or liquid temp a couple degrees in intake config but it's not worth it in my system.

 

Power and heat on a 6800k rapidly increases after 4Ghz (4.2 needs like 1.35+V, 4.4 needs like 1.45+V which is way too high IMO). I personally stick with 4.0 and have not had any bottleneck issues yet (BF1 is the highest user at about 50% at 1440p, 80fps)

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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7 minutes ago, Realz said:

@pyrojoe34 Hey pyro whats up man, can you llink me directly your cpu cooler.

This is the one. The H110i GTX and H115i are the same cooler, they just changed the name. However the case you linked doesn't seem like it would fit a 280mm rad so you would be better off getting the H100i v2, or really any 240mm AIO (NZXT or whatever brand you think looks best and has decent reviews). You won't get quite as good temps with a 240mm as with a 280mm but the difference won't be massive either.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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