motherboard I am so lost I don't even know what to title this thread

[C130113146]

I really have no clue what category this would go in. I have tried so much and it's just all been wrong so someone please help me.  

 

Fx 8320 8-Core 3.5ghz 

Cryorig H7
R9 380x 4gb
16 GB DDR3 1600mhz
MSI 970 Mobo
Western Digital Black 1tb (Brand new)
1200w PSU

-------------------------------------------------------

Windows 10 pro - 64bit

 

That is my system that has been doing me well for a few months now. This morning I wanted to test out how well my computer would run so I set up OBS and played minecraft while streaming to Twitch only for about an hour though. Just before, I decided it would be a good idea to boost my CPU to 4ghz. It said that was the turbo speed so I figured why not? I then checked my temperatures and my CPU was a whopping 75 degrees Celsius. I could not find any set answer anywhere that said what the safe temperatures for the 8320 were so I figured that was kind of high and dismantled the cooler. It was my original plan to re apply the thermal compound because I figured I put too little. It also didn't phase me to see if maybe one of the screws wasn't in as tight as it could have been. Could that have been the problem? Because the cooler is a decent cooler and I would think it would cool it down a little better than that.

 

But onto the next problem. I re mounted the cooler and plugged it in and got a blue screen that said "Error your computer needs to use recovery tools cuz it's dumb - Error 0xc0000098" which I was like woah that's not right might as well re install windows. (I had just re installed it a day before to clear up all the junk I didn't need, I like to start fresh, but I didn't mind losing a few things because I had backups). Well I then plugged it back in and it kept giving me the same error. I unplugged my PC and did the screwdriver CMOS thing like I've done before, It's worked before. Well when I plugged my cable back into my GPU, I turned on the PC and it wouldn't send a signal to the monitor, it didn't even power the monitor on.

 

I figured it was the mother board because the hard drive was empty and the GPU was swapped for a GTX 750 but same results. I'm going to go to BestBuy or somewhere and get another AM3+ Mobo just to see if it's the problem and then I'll return it and find another one on eBay for cheap.

 

So conclusion - 2 questions:

1 - Am I correct, is this the motherboard?

2 - Could someone reccomend me a good AM3+ Mobo for $100-$150? or would it be smart to just go with the same 970?

 

Any input or comments about what might have happened would be great! Also I'll answer any other questions if I forgot to include something.

[Guest lilbman]

17 minutes ago, C130113146 said:

ust before, I decided it would be a good idea to boost my CPU to 4ghz

Do you mean you overclocked it?

 

And if you did, does that motherboard support overclocking?

 

EDIT-It appears it does support overclocking.  Are your drivers updated, and if you overclocked the CPU, did you change the voltage?

[C130113146]

10 minutes ago, lilbman said:

Do you mean you overclocked it?

 

And if you did, does that motherboard support overclocking?

 

EDIT-It appears it does support overclocking.  Are your drivers updated, and if you overclocked the CPU, did you change the voltage?

Yes I did overclock it and no I did not change the voltage at all. Bios was fully up to date but I didn't have anything on the HDD but they were updated before the problem started happening

[SpaceGhostC2C]

42 minutes ago, C130113146 said:

I then checked my temperatures and my CPU was a whopping 75 degrees Celsius.

75 package or socket?

 

42 minutes ago, C130113146 said:

I could not find any set answer anywhere that said what the safe temperatures for the 8320 were so I figured that was kind of high

If socket, kind of borderline. If package, that's too damned high.

 

42 minutes ago, C130113146 said:

 

and dismantled the cooler. It was my original plan to re apply the thermal compound because I figured I put too little. It also didn't phase me to see if maybe one of the screws wasn't in as tight as it could have been. Could that have been the problem? Because the cooler is a decent cooler and I would think it would cool it down a little better than that.

It's not easy to cool an OC'ed FX, but for 4.0GHz I would expect it to be enough. It all comes down to the voltages, though. Which vcore did you use?

 

42 minutes ago, C130113146 said:

But onto the next problem. I re mounted the cooler and plugged it in and got a blue screen that said "Error your computer needs to use recovery tools cuz it's dumb - Error 0xc0000098" which I was like woah that's not right might as well re install windows.

Are you sure nothing got disconnected / out of place as you re-seated your cooler?

 

42 minutes ago, C130113146 said:

 

So conclusion - 2 questions:

1 - Am I correct, is this the motherboard?

 

I can't tell yet. The vcore number and the exact motherboard model could help.

 

42 minutes ago, C130113146 said:

 

2 - Could someone reccomend me a good AM3+ Mobo for $100-$150? or would it be smart to just go with the same 970?

Again, which 970?

AM3+ is old enough to find plenty of good boards in the used market, but even if you want to go new you'll find great options at USD 100 max. No point in spending more, I think.

[C130113146]

17 minutes ago, SpaceGhostC2C said:

75 package or socket?

 

If socket, kind of borderline. If package, that's too damned high.

 

It's not easy to cool an OC'ed FX, but for 4.0GHz I would expect it to be enough. It all comes down to the voltages, though. Which vcore did you use?

 

Are you sure nothing got disconnected / out of place as you re-seated your cooler?

 

I can't tell yet. The vcore number and the exact motherboard model could help.

 

Again, which 970?

AM3+ is old enough to find plenty of good boards in the used market, but even if you want to go new you'll find great options at USD 100 max. No point in spending more, I think.

75 package or socket? - Not completly sure the difference, it was the one shown on OpenHardwareMonitor. It just said CPU Temperature.

 

 

It's not easy to cool an OC'ed FX, but for 4.0GHz I would expect it to be enough. It all comes down to the voltages, though. Which vcore did you use? It was whatever it was by default, I've never messed around with any voltages or anything.

 

Are you sure nothing got disconnected / out of place as you re-seated your cooler? Nothing at wall was disconected.

 

I can't tell yet. The vcore number and the exact motherboard model could help. This is the exact one I have, would help if I could get onto my computer to see the exact model number -https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130790 and again, not sure about vcore (or what it means...)

 

Sorry If I seems like I don't know all that much, I'm still learning...

[SpaceGhostC2C]

Just now, C130113146 said:

75 package or socket? - Not completly sure the difference, it was the one shown on OpenHardwareMonitor. It just said CPU Temperature.

OpenHWMonitor will show temps classified by components. If it said CPU Temperature in the motherboard section, that's the socket reading (the sensor is on the motherboard).

Further down, in the CPU section (where you have the clocks, the loads, etc) you have the package temperature (the sensor is inside the CPU).

 

Just now, C130113146 said:

 

It's not easy to cool an OC'ed FX, but for 4.0GHz I would expect it to be enough. It all comes down to the voltages, though. Which vcore did you use? It was whatever it was by default, I've never messed around with any voltages or anything.

Default voltages can vary by motherboard, and they are often overkill for stock frequencies. It may have been higher than necessary (and that would make the CPU run hotter).

 

Just now, C130113146 said:

 

Are you sure nothing got disconnected / out of place as you re-seated your cooler? Nothing at wall was disconected.

I don't understand. Disconnecting the PC from the wall is fine. I mean whether ram sticks could have been bumped out of place, some cable left unplugged inside (you mentioned swapping GPUs), etc.

 

Just now, C130113146 said:

 

I can't tell yet. The vcore number and the exact motherboard model could help. This is the exact one I have, would help if I could get onto my computer to see the exact model number -https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130790 

That's enough  If that's your board, I don't think VRM overheating could be the issue at 4.0GHz

Just now, C130113146 said:

 

and again, not sure about vcore (or what it means...)

It's the core voltage  Electrical current is supplied to the CPU cores at some voltage called vcore, which needs to be higher the higher the current you want to push. In turn, you need higher current to run higher frequencies stably (hence why if you push your OC, eventually you'll need to adjust it).

 

I was asking those questions to try to understand if your motherboard could have had trouble delivering enough current to the CPU, or whether it could have overheated doing so. It wouldn't seem the case, although those 75C made me wonder...

It could be the motherboard, but try double checking every connection, and resetting the BIOS by all available means (a clear CMOS button, if any, shorting the appropriate jumper, pulling out the round battery for a few minutes...). Hopefully, your BIOS wasn't properly reset, and all your problems are just an unstable overclock.

If not, troubleshooting continues... 

[C130113146]

1 hour ago, SpaceGhostC2C said:

OpenHWMonitor will show temps classified by components. If it said CPU Temperature in the motherboard section, that's the socket reading (the sensor is on the motherboard).

Further down, in the CPU section (where you have the clocks, the loads, etc) you have the package temperature (the sensor is inside the CPU).

 

Default voltages can vary by motherboard, and they are often overkill for stock frequencies. It may have been higher than necessary (and that would make the CPU run hotter).

 

 

That's enough  If that's your board, I don't think VRM overheating could be the issue at 4.0GHz

It's the core voltage  Electrical current is supplied to the CPU cores at some voltage called vcore, which needs to be higher the higher the current you want to push. In turn, you need higher current to run higher frequencies stably (hence why if you push your OC, eventually you'll need to adjust it).

 

I was asking those questions to try to understand if your motherboard could have had trouble delivering enough current to the CPU, or whether it could have overheated doing so. It wouldn't seem the case, although those 75C made me wonder...

It could be the motherboard, but try double checking every connection, and resetting the BIOS by all available means (a clear CMOS button, if any, shorting the appropriate jumper, pulling out the round battery for a few minutes...). Hopefully, your BIOS wasn't properly reset, and all your problems are just an unstable overclock.

If not, troubleshooting continues... 

You are by far the best person that's ever answered any of my threads on this forum. You're very helpful I must say.

 

Quote

I don't understand. Disconnecting the PC from the wall is fine. I mean whether ram sticks could have been bumped out of place, some cable left unplugged inside (you mentioned swapping GPUs), etc.

Also this was a typo I meant to say all instead of wall... my bad. My typing is equivalent to someone smashing their face into the keyboard.

 

The red box was the temperatures I was the area I was looking in OHM.

 

Thank you for the help it means a lot and if the battery doesn't fix it, which is the only thing I haven't tried, I'll go to BestBuy, get a new motherboard and confirm it's that component that's the issue then I'll return it and get one for cheaper on eBay.

 

Also while this thread is open, should I just buy the same motherboard I have now or do you think this would be a better choice? - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132713&cm_re=am3%2b-_-13-132-713-_-Product

(I can find it for much cheaper on eBay which is where I get everything so pricing is not an issue)

[SpaceGhostC2C]

5 hours ago, C130113146 said:

 You're very helpful I must say.

Glad  to help!

5 hours ago, C130113146 said:

 

The red box was the temperatures I was the area I was looking in OHM.

That's the intenso sensor. If you saw 75C, that's a bit over the limit (typically high 60s - low 70s for the FX lineup). 

 

5 hours ago, C130113146 said:

 

Also while this thread is open, should I just buy the same motherboard I have now or do you think this would be a better choice? - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132713&cm_re=am3%2b-_-13-132-713-_-Product

(I can find it for much cheaper on eBay which is where I get everything so pricing is not an issue) 

That Asus board has a good reputation, I would certainly get it over the MSI of pricing is not too different. 

 

[Guest lilbman]

19 hours ago, C130113146 said:

Yes I did overclock it and no I did not change the voltage at all. Bios was fully up to date but I didn't have anything on the HDD but they were updated before the problem started happening

Well if you overclock it past stock then you have to give it enough power to sustain that overclock.   @SpaceGhostC2C seems to be more informed on FX series processors than I am so I'll let him help you.

[C130113146]

On 6/24/2017 at 4:28 AM, SpaceGhostC2C said:

Glad  to help!

That's the intenso sensor. If you saw 75C, that's a bit over the limit (typically high 60s - low 70s for the FX lineup). 

 

That Asus board has a good reputation, I would certainly get it over the MSI of pricing is not too different. 

 

UPDATE - So I was going to go to bestbuy and buy a motherboard to see if that was the issue then return it later but BestBuy doesn't sell motherboards or carry any AM3+ boards. Then I was going to buy one off of NewEgg but I want to save every penny I can. So before I buy it, I was wondering if maybe you had an idea about whether it could be the CPU? Both the CPU and the Mobo got heated up. Personally, I don't know what happens when a CPU goes bad or what happens when the Mobo goes bad. Could the lack of display to the monitor be caused by my CPU before I commit to a mother board purchase?

[dexT]

On 6/23/2017 at 6:28 PM, C130113146 said:

2 - Could someone reccomend me a good AM3+ Mobo for $100-$150? or would it be smart to just go with the same 970?

Do you live by a Microcenter? http://www.microcenter.com/product/446624/crosshair_v_formula-z_socket_am3_990fx_atx_amd_motherboard

 

Get a used one if not. This is the only AM3+ board I'd use.

[SpaceGhostC2C]

22 hours ago, C130113146 said:

So before I buy it, I was wondering if maybe you had an idea about whether it could be the CPU? Both the CPU and the Mobo got heated up. Personally, I don't know what happens when a CPU goes bad or what happens when the Mobo goes bad. Could the lack of display to the monitor be caused by my CPU before I commit to a mother board purchase?

Frankly, it could be anything, from the GPU itself to any critical component causing the PC not to start up. Does your motherboard have a small built-in display for error codes? If not, did the motherboard  or the case bring a small speaker to connect to the motherboard (those small cylindrical ones)? You couls use either to try to get any sort of error code. You can then look for it on the motherboard's manual or the internet. 

[C130113146]

On 6/26/2017 at 7:05 PM, SpaceGhostC2C said:

Frankly, it could be anything, from the GPU itself to any critical component causing the PC not to start up. Does your motherboard have a small built-in display for error codes? If not, did the motherboard  or the case bring a small speaker to connect to the motherboard (those small cylindrical ones)? You couls use either to try to get any sort of error code. You can then look for it on the motherboard's manual or the internet. 

I just bought the ASUS motherboard off of NewEgg and I got it today. Plugged it in, yes correctly, same issue with the no display. It doesn't power on the monitor. I switched out GPU's and same issue. My only guess is the CPU. I put my knuckle on it a few days ago when trying to see if it would heat up and it didn't at all it was still cold. (I had a really fast fan pointed at it so I didn't put the heatsink on since I only started it for a few seconds.

 

But anyways, do you think it could be the CPU?

[SpaceGhostC2C]

9 minutes ago, C130113146 said:

(I had a really fast fan pointed at it so I didn't put the heatsink on since I only started it for a few seconds.

I would still avoid it (but it doesn't matter since it was after the problem started).

 

9 minutes ago, C130113146 said:

But anyways, do you think it could be the CPU?

It could be. Again, if you have one of these speakers around, it could help to listen for error codes:

Quote

It is the CPU, I would still not know why, though  But it would at least answer your original question  

[C130113146]

1 minute ago, SpaceGhostC2C said:

I would still avoid it (but it doesn't matter since it was after the problem started).

 

It could be. Again, if you have one of these speakers around, it could help to listen for error codes:

It is the CPU, I would still not know why, though  But it would at least answer your original question  

I have no clue what has happened to my poor computer.... I'll buy a CPU and do the same thing and then return the mother board. Also would a normal speaker work like to plug into the 3.5mm?

[Krillingt75961]

On ‎6‎/‎24‎/‎2017 at 3:28 AM, SpaceGhostC2C said:

Glad  to help!

That's the intenso sensor. If you saw 75C, that's a bit over the limit (typically high 60s - low 70s for the FX lineup). 

 

That Asus board has a good reputation, I would certainly get it over the MSI of pricing is not too different. 

 

I also second this. The cheapest AM3+ board to support M.2 as well so that is always a bonus.

[SpaceGhostC2C]

5 hours ago, C130113146 said:

. Also would a normal speaker work like to plug into the 3.5mm?

I'm afraid it won't . The 3.5mm jack comes from the onoard audio chip, which won't work without drivers, etc. The other speaker is just for beep noises for diagnose purposes, and works from boot, without OS or anything.