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Is there a secret to shooting LED case lighting?

Like the title says, is there a secret to not getting that bizarre looking colour bleed? As it is, the case lighting makes the system look really off in photos.

 

Either analog with a filter or digital, is there some secret to getting a good looking case photo with LED case lighting?

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Possibly a longer exposure, as it'll let in more light and blur the LEDs together from the overexposure. 

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8 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

Possibly a longer exposure, as it'll let in more light and blur the LEDs together from the overexposure. 

Seems like the opposite of what I want to do? That would give be a blaze of light and no details on components.

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Just now, Mothballs said:

Seems like the opposite of what I want to do? That would give be a blaze of light and no details on components.

You wouldn't need a really long one. Just like 1/2 sec or something. You just need it to blur the light enough the individual LEDs aren't visible, then you can fix the overexposure in photoshop or something. Is you camera automatically setting it's exposure? Or are you doing it manually?

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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3 hours ago, Zando Bob said:

You wouldn't need a really long one. Just like 1/2 sec or something. You just need it to blur the light enough the individual LEDs aren't visible, then you can fix the overexposure in photoshop or something. Is you camera automatically setting it's exposure? Or are you doing it manually?

Manual. 

 

I'll give it a try later, but as it stands anything near the light just turns into a wash of pure colour and loses all definition. 

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