tubing time!

[SmilesRising]

im  about to add the tubing and im just wondering if its as easy as i think, i have compression fittings so do i just screw the fitting onto the block and then just push the tubing over it and then screw the "ring" from the fitting over?

[W-L]

11 minutes ago, smiles rising said:

im  about to add the tubing and im just wondering if its as easy as i think, i have compression fittings so do i just screw the fitting onto the block and then just push the tubing over it and then screw the "ring" from the fitting over?

Yes that would be correct, just remember to put the rings on before fittings the tubes over the two fittings. Just a tip if you have difficultly putting the tube over the fittings you can dip the tube is hot water for a short period if time to soften it and fit to over the end.

 

 

[SmilesRising]

20 minutes ago, W-L said:

Yes that would be correct, just remember to put the rings on before fittings the tubes over the two fittings. Just a tip if you have difficultly putting the tube over the fittings you can dip the tube is hot water for a short period if time to soften it and fit to over the end.

 

 

getting the tube on isnt the hard part for me , screwing the rings is really difficult...

[SmilesRising]

34 minutes ago, W-L said:

Yes that would be correct, just remember to put the rings on before fittings the tubes over the two fittings. Just a tip if you have difficultly putting the tube over the fittings you can dip the tube is hot water for a short period if time to soften it and fit to over the end.

 

 

i cant get it on... it doesnt screw downwards.. 

[SmilesRising]

this is the most it can go..

[SmilesRising]

how far should they go? i cant get my fittings beyond this point. is that enough or?

[Skiiwee29]

It is possible that it will look like that yes. Since you are using soft tubing its not 100% exactly correct and can expand and contract with heat and the cold. 

[SmilesRising]

1 minute ago, legacy99 said:

It is possible that it will look like that yes. Since you are using soft tubing its not 100% exactly correct and can expand and contract with heat and the cold. 

will it leak or anything if i have it like this? i cant turn it anymore and it feels tight

[19_blackie_73]

8 minutes ago, smiles rising said:

will it leak or anything if i have it like this? i cant turn it anymore and it feels tight

then it should be fine. But you'll get the final answer only if you leak test it.

[SmilesRising]

Just now, 19_blackie_73 said:

then it should be fine. But you'll get the final answer only if you leak test it.

yeah but i dont really want water to splash everywhere because i made a mistake..

[Skiiwee29]

1 minute ago, smiles rising said:

yeah but i dont really want water to splash everywhere because i made a mistake..

Generally with Barbed fittings its near impossible for them to leak at the tube portion, if they leak, its usually from the threads area. You should be fine. Just when you fill the loop, and this is an always do type of thing, put paper town everywhere water could potentially leak from to catch it while you watch for leaks. You can never truly know if you will or won't have leaks in a custom loop until you fill it up. 

[SmilesRising]

1 minute ago, legacy99 said:

Generally with Barbed fittings its near impossible for them to leak at the tube portion, if they leak, its usually from the threads area. You should be fine. Just when you fill the loop, and this is an always do type of thing, put paper town everywhere water could potentially leak from to catch it while you watch for leaks. You can never truly know if you will or won't have leaks in a custom loop until you fill it up. 

okay, ill test it. should i remove the CMOS battery from the motherboard before leak testing? and how do i leak test? do i just fill the reservoar and then start the pump and let it go?

[Leonard]

What craziness......sorry i just got up....that may leak but not right away. This happens when you don't use the proper sized tube, ID and OD, for compression fittings. You will have to keep checking on this because some tubing has a tendency to contract and expand according to temperature and while it is just a bit, it is enough to cause a leak with pumps with high flow rate and pressure head.

 

 

[SmilesRising]

Just now, Leonard said:

What craziness......sorry i just got up....that may leak but not right away. This happens when you don't use the proper sized tube, ID and OD, for compression fittings. You will have to keep checking on this because some tubing has a tendency to contract and expand according to temperature and while it is just a bit, it is enough to cause a leak with pumps with high flow rate and pressure head.

 

 

i didnt pick the tubing and fittings.. i bought a kit from XSPC hoping everything would go smooth.. but youre saying that it should work but that i need to check on it after a while?

[Leonard]

2 minutes ago, smiles rising said:

i didnt pick the tubing and fittings.. i bought a kit from XSPC hoping everything would go smooth.. but youre saying that it should work but that i need to check on it after a while?

Yes you will have to keep checking it when the compression is seated like this. Most soft tube tends to shrink and then expand according to the ambient and the water temperature and over time there is always a slight turn you can get on a compression fitting when the soft tube shrinks, this is over time and not specified. I would advise you check the tube's OD and ID to see if it matches the fittings and if it does then just watch it if not get some proper sized tube soon.

 

Is this kit with a D5 pump or the 750 x20?....if it is the 750 x20 you should be fine because that pump is not that strong, mine died last year after three years of 24/7 usage, however if it is the D5 pump be a little concerned as the D5 pumps are strong.

[SmilesRising]

Just now, Leonard said:

Yes you will have to keep checking it when the compression is seated like this. Most soft tube tends to shrink and then expand according to the ambient and the water temperature and over time there is always a slight turn you can get on a compression fitting when the soft tube shrinks, this is over time and not specified. I would advise you check the tube's OD and ID to see if it matches the fittings and if it does then just watch it if not get some proper sized tube soon.

 

Is this kit with a D5 pump or the 750 x20?....if it is the 750 x20 you should be fine because that pump is not that strong, mine died last year after three years of 24/7 usage, however if it is the D5 pump be a little concerned as the D5 pumps are strong.

its a D5 pump.. My fittings says G1/4" to 7/16" OD. i dont really know what those measurements mean.. is it inches?

[Leonard]

Just now, smiles rising said:

its a D5 pump.. My fittings says G1/4" to 7/16" OD. i dont really know what those measurements mean.. is it inches?

When ever you see G11/4 that is referring to the size of the fitting thread (the part that screws into a radiator or block) and not the part that the tube goes over. When ever you see OD?ID this refers to the outer and inner walls of a given tube and for the issue that you have to not exsit the OD of the tube must match the OD of the compression fitting when it does not the outer compression ring can not fully tighten, leaks sometimes happens like this, emphasis on sometimes. Now if the ID of the tube is not the proper size leaks will always happen, emphasis on always, as it does not make a seal on the barb of the compression.

 

The " expresses inches so yes 7/16" is seven sixteenths of an inch and it is a hard fitting diameter but you can find tube for it.

 

There is a very high probability that your loop will not leak but keep an eye on it and ever so often just slightly try to see if there is any play with the compression outer ring by using your hand to turn it. 

 

The fitting has to say g1/4 fitting with xOD and yID where x and y refer to a size and they must match the tube to prevent leaks. The ID is way more needed to match that the OD because there is no way to tighten the compression if the tube is too thin.

[SmilesRising]

2 minutes ago, Leonard said:

When ever you see G11/4 that is referring to the size of the fitting thread (the part that screws into a radiator or block) and not the part that the tube goes over. When ever you see OD?ID this refers to the outer and inner walls of a given tube and for the issue that you have to not exsit the OD of the tube must match the OD of the compression fitting when it does not the outer compression ring can not fully tighten, leaks sometimes happens like this, emphasis on sometimes. Now if the ID of the tube is not the proper size leaks will always happen, emphasis on always, as it does not make a seal on the barb of the compression.

 

The " expresses inches so yes 7/16" is seven sixteenths of an inch and it is a hard fitting diameter but you can find tube for it.

 

There is a very high probability that your loop will not leak but keep an eye on it and ever so often just slightly try to see if there is any play with the compression outer ring by using your hand to turn it. 

 

The fitting has to say g1/4 fitting with xOD and yID where x and y refer to a size and they must match the tube to prevent leaks. The ID is way more needed to match that the OD because there is no way to tighten the compression if the tube is too thin.

The tube is about 1.6cm across and the hole itself is about 1.2cm.. this should work..

[Leonard]

Just now, smiles rising said:

The tube is about 1.6cm across and the hole itself is about 1.2cm.. this should work..

Yes it should work but pay it some attention cause the compression ring is not fully seated.

 

Also make it a habit of leak testing outside of your case, you can always drain and reassemble the loop inside the case after testing.

[SmilesRising]

4 minutes ago, Leonard said:

Yes it should work but pay it some attention cause the compression ring is not fully seated.

 

Also make it a habit of leak testing outside of your case, you can always drain and reassemble the loop inside the case after testing.

but lots of people said that i should leak test inside the case because moving it after leak testing could cause leaks. and now i already have everything installed in the case..

[Leonard]

1 minute ago, smiles rising said:

but lots of people said that i should leak test inside the case because moving it after leak testing could cause leaks. and now i already have everything installed in the case..

Leak testing inside a case is for experienced users and while moving the loop when you have leak tested outside the case can cause a leak it will be highly probable that the leak will be minimal and you should get it quickly. Also, when you leak test outside the case and then dismantle it the only thing that is removed is the tube and not the fittings.

 

Don't panic just be cautious. 

[SmilesRising]

5 minutes ago, Leonard said:

Leak testing inside a case is for experienced users and while moving the loop when you have leak tested outside the case can cause a leak it will be highly probable that the leak will be minimal and you should get it quickly. Also, when you leak test outside the case and then dismantle it the only thing that is removed is the tube and not the fittings.

 

Don't panic just be cautious. 

okay, but what do i do if theres a leak? and should i remove the cmos battery from the motherboard before testing?

[Leonard]

14 minutes ago, smiles rising said:

okay, but what do i do if theres a leak? and should i remove the cmos battery from the motherboard before testing?

What do you mean what to do if there is a leak.... mop that shit up...ok ok this is what to do....use some folded sheets of bounty under the fittings where possible,  and over the PSU to suck up the coolant if there is a leak, remove any PCIe components like the GPU or say if you have a PCIe audio card and you don't need to remove the CMOS battery but you should be using the PSU jumper and all the MOBO's 8-pin, sata and GPU power cables should be disconnected and you should be turning on the PSU with the PSU switch on the PSU, turning it on and off as you full the loop and when the loop is full you will turn it off and on to flush the air out of the loop, all this while looking for leaks on the bounty. 

 

I am going to assume you have something proper to fill the reservoir  like a funnel or a fill bottle to avoid splashes.  

[SmilesRising]

9 minutes ago, Leonard said:

What do you mean what to do if there is a leak.... mop that shit up...ok ok this is what to do....use some folded sheets of bounty under the fittings where possible,  and over the PSU to suck up the coolant if there is a leak, remove any PCIe components like the GPU or say if you have a PCIe audio card and you don't need to remove the CMOS battery but you should be using the PSU jumper and all the MOBO's 8-pin, sata and GPU power cables should be disconnected and you should be turning on the PSU with the PSU switch on the PSU, turning it on and off as you full the loop and when the loop is full you will turn it off and on to flush the air out of the loop, all this while looking for leaks on the bounty. 

 

I am going to assume you have something proper to fill the reservoir  like a funnel or a fill bottle to avoid splashes.  

i have a fill bottle and im going to use the psu outside of the system so no need to cover that, and i have 24 jumper so that should be okay. thank you for your help. how long should i test it for? 4-5 hours or?

[Leonard]

2 minutes ago, smiles rising said:

i have a fill bottle and im going to use the psu outside of the system so no need to cover that, and i have 24 jumper so that should be okay. thank you for your help. how long should i test it for? 4-5 hours or?

Your welcome and yeah this is a good test time. Remember to also unplug the sata power connectors and the supplemental MOBO 8 ping power cables.