Watercooling First Build

[TootY]

Hi all, 

 

I was wondering if anyone could help me on the following?

 

I'm looking into doing a custom loop (first time) and I've seen so much information it's overwhelming. I'm nervous and excited all at the same time. I've gone over to the EK website and used the configurator tool which I admit, is fantastic! 

 

So, here is the current setup provided by the automated configurator -  https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/shared/oW5891be5f22580

 

What I required answering:

 

1) So EK has recommended the 280 Radiator to b mounted at the top and the 360 Radiator to mounted up front, what I need to know is will they fit correctly, not in terms of length as I know they'll fit I'm talking about the thickness, and whether it's what you'd suggest?

 

2) In regards to the above question, I've read the case manual and it's stated the pump mounts in two locations, I'm wanting to mount it at the front near the 360 radiator. Looking at the manual, are they going to fit together and if so, where are the mounting holes? 

 

3) Looking at the coolant, I've noticed it's concentrate. I'd really like something that's ready to go, would this be OK to go with, and if so what preparation would be required and how many bottles?   https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-pastel-orange-coolant-1l-wc-017-mh.html

 

4) The fans they have picked don't match with my scheme, so I'm wanting to change them out to all black. What I need to understand, I know the fans are rated 2000/2200RPM, is that a constant speed or can they be dropped to for example 800RPM?

a) 120mm - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vardar-f4-120er-2200rpm

b) 140mm - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vardar-f3-140er-2000rpm

 

5) If I wanted to change out the coolant in future or a general maintenance, how would I go about draining the system with the parts selected, would I need some kind of valve I attach for draining?

 

6) With my current motherboard (Signature) am I able to run 2X Fans off 1X CHA_FAN Header and 3X Fans off 1X CHA_FAN header?

 

Appreciate all the help given,

 

 

 

 

[Yahtadi]

Ive seen double 360 rad for top and front for that case. So i guess that rad config from EK would fit

[Mick Naughty]

Prolly best to get a gallon of distilled water. That way you aren't measuring or buying multiple bottles. Concentrate is the way to go. 

[done12many2]

10 hours ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

1) So EK has recommended the 280 Radiator to b mounted at the top and the 360 Radiator to mounted up front, what I need to know is will they fit correctly, not in terms of length as I know they'll fit I'm talking about the thickness, and whether it's what you'd suggest?

 

Per the manual for your case, EK's recommendation will work or you could switch locations of the 280 and 360 as well.  

 

The PE (the 360) series rads are 38mm thick plus 25mm for fan thickness = 63mm combined thickness.  The CE (the 280) series is 45mm thick plus 25mm for fan thickness = 70mm combined thickness.  It looks like your case uses a removable radiator mounting bracket so you'll need to add the thickness an offset caused by that as well.  

 

Measure down from the mounting point (more than likely bracket location) while accounting for width and make sure that the 280 rad wont hit anything on the motherboard such as VRM heatsinks or anything around that area.

 

 

 

 

Quote

2) In regards to the above question, I've read the case manual and it's stated the pump mounts in two locations, I'm wanting to mount it at the front near the 360 radiator. Looking at the manual, are they going to fit together and if so, where are the mounting holes? 

 

To simplify this, EK makes a pump / res mount that simply bolts to the fans or fan mounting locations on the radiator depending on your air flow configuration.  I use two of these mounts myself, one for each pump and they allow mounting of the pumps to either the fan or the rad.  I believe they only work with 120mm fan mounting points, so this would require that you go with the 360mm up front as recommended by EK in the first place.

 

The mounting bracket along the backside and under the pump / res pictured here is the separate mount that I'm talking about, which must be purchased from EK separately.

 

 

 

 

Quote

3) Looking at the coolant, I've noticed it's concentrate. I'd really like something that's ready to go, would this be OK to go with, and if so what preparation would be required and how many bottles?   https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-pastel-orange-coolant-1l-wc-017-mh.html

 

The concentrates have the distilled water to concentrate ratio printed on the bottle.  You simply add the appropriate parts of each to a clean empty container and shake them up before adding to the loop.  Generally, one bottle of concentrate is enough for a small to average size loop, but why spend this kind of money just to short yourself on fluid.  Get two to be safe.  

 

Quote

4) The fans they have picked don't match with my scheme, so I'm wanting to change them out to all black. What I need to understand, I know the fans are rated 2000/2200RPM, is that a constant speed or can they be dropped to for example 800RPM?

a) 120mm - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vardar-f4-120er-2200rpm

b) 140mm - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vardar-f3-140er-2000rpm

 

Yes, all EK fans are PWM and can be dropped in speed.

 

If you get their Vardar ER (Extended Range) fans like those you have listed, they can drop in RPMs even lower then the standard Vardar fans when at idle loads.  My ER fans run as low as 400 RPMs without issue, but scale all the way up to 2200 RPMs if needed. 

 

I have had bearing noise problems with two of my EK Vardar ER fans, which I replaced with new ones, so just a heads up that it can happen.  When I contacted EK about it, they gave me the impression that it was something I needed to take up with the retailers.  I wasn't impressed.

 

In all fairness, I have 25 Vardar fans in my case, so that's less then 10% that had the issue.  I'll let you judge if that's acceptable.  Other than that small hiccup, they've been perfect for over a year.

 

Quote

5) If I wanted to change out the coolant in future or a general maintenance, how would I go about draining the system with the parts selected, would I need some kind of valve I attach for draining?

 

You can incorporate this valve into an existing pipe / hose run in your current design near the bottom of the loop by inserting a Y splitter at some point with the extra port going to the valve / drain hose.  

 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-black

 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-y-splitter-3f-g1-4-black

 

 

Quote

6) With my current motherboard (Signature) am I able to run 2X Fans off 1X CHA_FAN Header and 3X Fans off 1X CHA_FAN header?

 

Yes, provided that the total amperage drawn from all the fans on that splitter / fan header do no exceed the total capacity of the single fan header.  Most newer Asus boards can accommodate up to 1 amp on a fan header and some even more.  You can get away with even more on one fan header if using a powered splitter or powered distribution block.  Just remember to avoid mixing 3-pin DC fans with 4-pin PWM fans on the same splitter to the same fan header.  It will work, but all fans will run at their max speed without any type of speed control available.  

 

Just double check the manual.

 

 

I hope all of that helped a little.

 

[TootY]

Hi done12many2,

 

Now that's the response I was expecting, very informative. (Y)

 

 

11 hours ago, done12many2 said:

 

Per the manual for your case, EK's recommendation will work or you could switch locations of the 280 and 360 as well.  

 

The PE (the 360) series rads are 38mm thick plus 25mm for fan thickness = 63mm combined thickness.  The CE (the 280) series is 45mm thick plus 25mm for fan thickness = 70mm combined thickness.  It looks like your case uses a removable radiator mounting bracket so you'll need to add the thickness an offset caused by that as well.  

 

Measure down from the mounting point (more than likely bracket location) while accounting for width and make sure that the 280 rad wont hit anything on the motherboard such as VRM heatsinks or anything around that area.

1

Regarding what you've said I can confirm the spacing is adequate, and after sourcing some more online information have come across a few builds with the 'EK CoolStream PE 360 Radiator' up top with fans. 

Source: http://imgur.com/r/watercooling/PjG0K

What I'd like to ask, do you thnk it's worth me going for the dual SE 240 instead to save some room up top as you can tell in the source link it's rather tight and he has a thinner model. I'm thinking of having (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-se-240-slim-dual) up top and the original 360 up front, do you think this will be adequate for what I'm wanting to cool?

 

11 hours ago, done12many2 said:

To simplify this, EK makes a pump / res mount that simply bolts to the fans or fan mounting locations on the radiator depending on your air flow configuration.  I use two of these mounts myself, one for each pump and they allow mounting of the pumps to either the fan or the rad.  I believe they only work with 120mm fan mounting points, so this would require that you go with the 360mm up front as recommended by EK in the first place.

 

The mounting bracket along the backside and under the pump / res pictured here is the separate mount that I'm talking about, which must be purchased from EK separately.

 

 

5

So I'm going for the res/pump combo and I'm following what you've mentioned, however, would having the pump/res connected to the radiator up front constrict airflow or am I looking at this the wrong way?

 

11 hours ago, done12many2 said:

The concentrates have the distilled water to concentrate ratio printed on the bottle.  You simply add the appropriate parts of each to a clean empty container and shake them up before adding to the loop.  Generally, one bottle of concentrate is enough for a small to average size loop, but why spend this kind of money just to short yourself on fluid.  Get two to be safe.  

1

Brilliant, so get to bottles of the concentrate and mix with something like:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-ultra-pure-h2o-5ltr-wc-102-mh.html

 

Also, do I rinse all components first with the above to clean the radiator, tube etc?

 

11 hours ago, done12many2 said:

Yes, all EK fans are PWM and can be dropped in speed.

 

If you get their Vardar ER (Extended Range) fans like those you have listed, they can drop in RPMs even lower then the standard Vardar fans when at idle loads.  My ER fans run as low as 400 RPMs without issue, but scale all the way up to 2200 RPMs if needed. 

 

I have had bearing noise problems with two of my EK Vardar ER fans, which I replaced with new ones, so just a heads up that it can happen.  When I contacted EK about it, they gave me the impression that it was something I needed to take up with the retailers.  I wasn't impressed.

 

In all fairness, I have 25 Vardar fans in my case, so that's less then 10% that had the issue.  I'll let you judge if that's acceptable.  Other than that small hiccup, they've been perfect for over a year.

2

 

So the fans selected are perfect for what I intend then. And I can bring down the RPM as required

 

12 hours ago, done12many2 said:

You can incorporate this valve into an existing pipe / hose run in your current design near the bottom of the loop by inserting a Y splitter at some point with the extra port going to the valve / drain hose.  

 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-black

 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-y-splitter-3f-g1-4-black

2

In terms of this connection, I assume connect to Y splitter to the pump, one side has the main routing of tubing and second has the ball valve, would I require any additional connections or use the original barb connections?

 

12 hours ago, done12many2 said:

Yes, provided that the total amperage drawn from all the fans on that splitter / fan header do no exceed the total capacity of the single fan header.  Most newer Asus boards can accommodate up to 1 amp on a fan header and some even more.  You can get away with even more on one fan header if using a powered splitter or powered distribution block.  Just remember to avoid mixing 3-pin DC fans with 4-pin PWM fans on the same splitter to the same fan header.  It will work, but all fans will run at their max speed without any type of speed control available.  

 

Just double check the manual.

1

I'm only going to have the 4 pin EK PVM fans in the case and a read 3 pin which will be connected to the CPU_FAN header.

 

Looking in my manual, I can't find anything with the AMPS per header, but all connections are 4 pin. Image attached.

 

 

[done12many2]

19 hours ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

Regarding what you've said I can confirm the spacing is adequate, and after sourcing some more online information have come across a few builds with the 'EK CoolStream PE 360 Radiator' up top with fans. 

Source: http://imgur.com/r/watercooling/PjG0K

What I'd like to ask, do you thnk it's worth me going for the dual SE 240 instead to save some room up top as you can tell in the source link it's rather tight and he has a thinner model. I'm thinking of having (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-se-240-slim-dual) up top and the original 360 up front, do you think this will be adequate for what I'm wanting to cool?

 

Never give up cooling surface area unless you have to.  Nothing wrong with tight as long as it fits.  A 280mm rad is quite a bit more surface area than a 240mm rad so keep it if you can.  Not to mention that 140mm fans will be a little quieter blowing out the top of the case.

 

Quote

 

So I'm going for the res/pump combo and I'm following what you've mentioned, however, would having the pump/res connected to the radiator up front constrict airflow or am I looking at this the wrong way?

 

It will not impact airflow in the slightest bit.  The same volume of air will pass through the radiator and into the case to later be exhausted by the top 140mm fans through the rad and the rear case fan.

 

Quote

 

Brilliant, so get to bottles of the concentrate and mix with something like:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-ultra-pure-h2o-5ltr-wc-102-mh.html

 

Also, do I rinse all components first with the above to clean the radiator, tube etc?

 

EK thoroughly cleans all WC parts before they ship.  While it is good practice to flush everything out before the build, I've never done so with EK parts and I've been through a lot of EK radiators without issue.

 

Quote

 

So the fans selected are perfect for what I intend then. And I can bring down the RPM as required

 

In terms of this connection, I assume connect to Y splitter to the pump, one side has the main routing of tubing and second has the ball valve, would I require any additional connections or use the original barb connections?

 

I personally use compression fittings for each component.  Rule of thumb is two fittings for every component that you are installing.  This does not include rotary fitting and any fitting used to angle the tube runs.  If you place a rotary fitting or an angled elbow in the middle of a run somewhere, you'll need to account for compression fittings for them as well.

 

Quote

I'm only going to have the 4 pin EK PVM fans in the case and a read 3 pin which will be connected to the CPU_FAN header.

 

Looking in my manual, I can't find anything with the AMPS per header, but all connections are 4 pin. Image attached.

 

 

 

 

 

The wattage/amperage was in there bud.  You just had to read down a little further.  Image attached.  

 

**Note that you can run higher than 1 amp on the H_AMP_FAN header