First Time Watercooling

[atomicus]

Just now, AJLedbetter123 said:

Ah I'm following.. The question also I need to ask regarding the pump In and Out, I've been reading you have to install the loop into the correct locations if that makes sense?

 

The loop has to follow the correct in/out flow yes, but that's pretty simple. The overall order doesn't matter though.

[TootY]

Just now, atomicus said:

 

The loop has to follow the correct in/out flow yes, but that's pretty simple. The overall order doesn't matter though.

 

I don't know why but I am confused. 

 

Not sure why I find that so confusing?

[Lurick]

4 minutes ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

I don't know why but I am confused. 

 

Not sure why I find that so confusing?

It's pretty much related to the CPU blocks mainly they have an in and out port and you don't want the pump pushing water into the out port. So you want the out of the pump to eventually connect to the in on the CPU block. If that makes more sense?

 

Beyond that through order such as radiator and block order doesn't matter, ex you can have pump/res > rad > blocks > rad or pump/res > blocks > rad > rad.

[TootY]

Ok, so as long as I do my run and the 'PUMP OUT' goes to 'CPU IN' - 'CPU OUT' to 'PUMP IN' I should be good and the rest like you said doesn't matter really?

[atomicus]

10 minutes ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

I don't know why but I am confused. 

 

Not sure why I find that so confusing?

 

As Lurick says... it's actually pretty obvious when you get the parts. The pump/res will be marked in/out, as will the CPU block. Rads don't matter (i.e either port can be used as in/out), and both left and right GPU port must be used... i.e you wouldn't just go straight up through only the left or only the right, but you can use both bottom ports, or both top ones, if that makes sense. The instructions tell you this though.

[TootY]

5 minutes ago, atomicus said:

 

As Lurick says... it's actually pretty obvious when you get the parts. The pump/res will be marked in/out, as will the CPU block. Rads don't matter (i.e either port can be used as in/out), and both left and right GPU port must be used... i.e you wouldn't just go straight up through only the left or only the right, but you can use both bottom ports, or both top ones, if that makes sense. The instructions tell you this though.

 

 

So does the GPU have an in and an out or doesn't it matter?

 

I've loaded up the manual of the part I would get, well almost but same manual - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-dual-parallel-plexi

 

Or would I go, one top and one bottom 

 

Sorry for making it so complicated gents

 

[atomicus]

20 minutes ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

Ah I'm following.. The question also I need to ask regarding the pump In and Out, I've been reading you have to install the loop into the correct locations if that makes sense?

 

What do you mean by 'correct locations' exactly? I'm not sure I understand. If you have a separate pump to the res, it would need to be below the res. If it's combined, it's like that anyway, and can be oriented any way you like apart from upside down (although filling the res in any position other than vertical is tricky lol!).

[TootY]

Yeah I'm going for a res/pump combo -  1X  EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)

 

 

Around 16:42 he mentions that we have to use the correct In/Out setup.

 

So as long as I have Out on the pump, connect in on the cpu, out cpu and back to res/pump I should be fine and the GPU's don't matter as they don't have specific in and out?

[TootY]

So does this sound correct:

 

Pump/Res Out to CPU In, CPU Out to Top Rad In, Top Rad Out to GPU In, GPU Out to Front Rad In, Front Rad Out to Res/Pump In?

 

I know radiators do not have dedicated in/ out ports and same for  GPU?

 

And looking at this manual - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109869345.pdf

 

I would come in from the top and exit the right hand side for the GPU block.

[atomicus]

4 minutes ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

So does this sound correct:

 

Pump/Res Out to CPU In, CPU Out to Top Rad In, Top Rad Out to GPU In, GPU Out to Front Rad In, Front Rad Out to Res/Pump In?

 

I know radiators do not have dedicated in/ out ports and same for  GPU?

 

Yes that is correct, but any order is fine... for example you could go pump/res>rad>CPU>GPU>rad>pump/res. GPU doesn't have dedicated in/out, but as I say you can't go straight up on the same side. As is shown in that video is fine, and the diagram you linked from the EK brochure is obviously how they recommend you do it. I don't know if you can use the terminal block with solely the top ports... I've not used one of those before, but that's easy to find out.

[TootY]

So for the GPU it would be like this: 

 

In at the top, and out from the bottom right?

[atomicus]

13 minutes ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

So for the GPU it would be like this: 

 

In at the top, and out from the bottom right?

 

 

That's certainly how it seems from the diagram there yes.

[TootY]

Like we've said, I'll only know for certain when I have coolant pissing everywhere haha

 

So in this image:

- 

 

The right hand side is not used? How does fluid get inside of that?

 

Or would the coolant come in from what's in the blocks?

 

[atomicus]

2 minutes ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

Like we've said, I'll only know for certain when I have coolant pissing everywhere haha

 

The right hand side is not used? How does fluid get inside of that?

 

 

Both sides are used, as per your diagram. It flows around the block and in the other side.

[TootY]

Oh I see, the small slit openings.. Wow, I bet you've never had anyone as stupid as me ha!

[atomicus]

4 minutes ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

Oh I see, the small slit openings.. Wow, I bet you've never had anyone as stupid as me ha!

 

When you've never done this stuff before it can be daunting and no reason why you'd know certain things... only way to find out is to ask! Better than just winging it and hoping for the best lol! 

[TootY]

Yeah that's true and I really appreciate the help you've given.. Lastly, If I were to take a picture before adding the coolant, would you know if it was setup correctly, think that makes sense

[atomicus]

3 minutes ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

Yeah that's true and I really appreciate the help you've given.. Lastly, If I were to take a picture before adding the coolant, would you know if it was setup correctly, think that makes sense

 

Yes, you can certainly do that. If you haven't screwed something down properly or left an o-ring off though, no one will be able to tell lol!

[TootY]

Ha, that most certainly is true.. I will try get as much detail as possible so you can see. Won't be for a little while, couple of months but I want to get all the research in etc before I go into it

[TootY]

Would I should do is pay you to come to me and help hahah!

 

One thing I did forget to ask, will 2X  EK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual) radiators be enough for 2GPU's and 1 CPU?

 

And these fans - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vardar-f4-120-2200rpm good option and RPM? 

 

And lastly, the pump I assume plugs into the CPU header on the motherboard and the fans on radiator I can connect to a splitter and connect to header on motherboard and control via that?

[atomicus]

1 hour ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

Would I should do is pay you to come to me and help hahah!

 

One thing I did forget to ask, will 2X  EK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual) radiators be enough for 2GPU's and 1 CPU?

 

And these fans - https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vardar-f4-120-2200rpm good option and RPM? 

 

And lastly, the pump I assume plugs into the CPU header on the motherboard and the fans on radiator I can connect to a splitter and connect to header on motherboard and control via that?

 

Is that all the case can take? The Pro 5 looks like it can take a 280mm up front, giving you an edge over a 240, so I'd go with that, and a 240 up top. Should be fine. I'd prefer 360s myself, but I don't think you'll have problems, and it's not an option with your case anyway... I always like to research extensively before a build in a specific case, and see how others have found performance etc, but I know you said there weren't many WC builds in this case. It does seem more limiting than others, but it is by no means going to perform bad. Thinner rads will be better if you're wanting quiet, as they will have higher FPI therefore allowing lower RPM fan speeds. Your case only allows up to 40mm thick rads anyway, according to the specs. The Vardars are good fans.

 

The pump you ideally want plugged in to a PWM header, not sure if your MSI mobo is the same as mine (X99A Titanium), but it most likely is... and I discovered it only has ONE true PWM header. Ridiculous, but true. So if I plugged the pump in to any header other than the true PWM one, it would only run at full bore 4000RPM, which was too noisy and totally unnecessary. However, by doing this I had no PWM header for my fans, so I had to adjust them manually in the BIOS.

 

Where in the UK are you?

[SmashinMachine]

There are differences between the mastercase versions. Your case can maybe allow thicker Radiators. 

 

14 hours ago, atomicus said:

 

Is that all the case can take? The Pro 5 looks like it can take a 280mm up front, giving you an edge over a 240, so I'd go with that, and a 240 up top. Should be fine. I'd prefer 360s myself, but I don't think you'll have problems, and it's not an option with your case anyway... I always like to research extensively before a build in a specific case, and see how others have found performance etc, but I know you said there weren't many WC builds in this case. It does seem more limiting than others, but it is by no means going to perform bad. Thinner rads will be better if you're wanting quiet, as they will have higher FPI therefore allowing lower RPM fan speeds. Your case only allows up to 40mm thick rads anyway, according to the specs. The Vardars are good fans.

 

The pump you ideally want plugged in to a PWM header, not sure if your MSI mobo is the same as mine (X99A Titanium), but it most likely is... and I discovered it only has ONE true PWM header. Ridiculous, but true. So if I plugged the pump in to any header other than the true PWM one, it would only run at full bore 4000RPM, which was too noisy and totally unnecessary. However, by doing this I had no PWM header for my fans, so I had to adjust them manually in the BIOS.

 

Where in the UK are you?

I'd recommend a 360 mm Radiator for your configuration  too if you don't use the ODD. You can use this bracket for 360mm Radiator. But you might have to drill the holes (inner-threads) from the bracket and the case bigger  first to mounting the fans with Radiator. 

 

Or  depending on the radiator, you might only be able to secure it with 10 out of 12 screws without drilling.

I mounted a 420mm Rad in the front and 280mm Rad in the top in my mastercase. 

[atomicus]

31 minutes ago, SmashinMachine said:

There are differences between the mastercase versions. Your case can maybe allow thicker Radiators. 

 

I'd recommend a 360 mm Radiator for your configuration  too if you don't use the ODD. You can use this bracket for 360mm Radiator. But you might have to drill the holes (inner-threads) from the bracket and the case bigger  first to mounting the fans with Radiator. 

 

Or  depending on the radiator, you might only be able to secure it with 10 out of 12 screws without drilling.

I mounted a 420mm Rad in the front and 280mm Rad in the top in my mastercase. 

 

I've always been a bit confused by this case, and never really studied it... but you certainly want to maximise rad space, so if it requires a simple mod you'd definitely benefit from a 360 or 420 in there. I don't see too many WC builds in it though, so perhaps it puts people off. Always struck me as an expensive case for what you get, plus the accessories, which are also very costly. You could easily spend Lian Li or even Case Labs money on this case and just end up with a load of plastic and perspex. The tempered glass window is nice, but the overall package has just never screamed top end quality to me, yet it's a top end price.

[TootY]

15 hours ago, atomicus said:

 

Is that all the case can take? The Pro 5 looks like it can take a 280mm up front, giving you an edge over a 240, so I'd go with that, and a 240 up top. Should be fine. I'd prefer 360s myself, but I don't think you'll have problems, and it's not an option with your case anyway... I always like to research extensively before a build in a specific case, and see how others have found performance etc, but I know you said there weren't many WC builds in this case. It does seem more limiting than others, but it is by no means going to perform bad. Thinner rads will be better if you're wanting quiet, as they will have higher FPI therefore allowing lower RPM fan speeds. Your case only allows up to 40mm thick rads anyway, according to the specs. The Vardars are good fans.

 

The pump you ideally want plugged in to a PWM header, not sure if your MSI mobo is the same as mine (X99A Titanium), but it most likely is... and I discovered it only has ONE true PWM header. Ridiculous, but true. So if I plugged the pump in to any header other than the true PWM one, it would only run at full bore 4000RPM, which was too noisy and totally unnecessary. However, by doing this I had no PWM header for my fans, so I had to adjust them manually in the BIOS.

 

Where in the UK are you?

 

 

 

Picked the 280 radiator due to me wanting to mount the radiator with the ports at the bottom so I would push the radiator up above the bottom fan hole. I think I could have a 360 as I have 3 fans in the front at the moment, however, I would need to ports turning to the top, possible clearance issue?

 

I'm pretty sure I don't have a PVM header on my board so I assume I would need to connect the pump to the CPU header, thus stopping the BIOS flashing up saying it's not connected.

 

I'm in Nottingham. Central of everything ha!

 

1 hour ago, SmashinMachine said:

There are differences between the mastercase versions. Your case can maybe allow thicker Radiators. 

 

I'd recommend a 360 mm Radiator for your configuration  too if you don't use the ODD. You can use this bracket for 360mm Radiator. But you might have to drill the holes (inner-threads) from the bracket and the case bigger  first to mounting the fans with Radiator. 

 

Or  depending on the radiator, you might only be able to secure it with 10 out of 12 screws without drilling.

I mounted a 420mm Rad in the front and 280mm Rad in the top in my mastercase. 

 

Yeah, what you've marked is how I have a 3rd fan connected, however, I think the gap listed is only 40-50mm spacing which is why I opted for a thinner radiator, however, I could run the radiator at 360 but have the ports up top if that makes sense. I also picked the thinner radiator due to the GPU's, as they are strix they are very lengthy and I have to now mount the pump/res on the radiator up front.

[atomicus]

4 hours ago, AJLedbetter123 said:

 

Picked the 280 radiator due to me wanting to mount the radiator with the ports at the bottom so I would push the radiator up above the bottom fan hole. I think I could have a 360 as I have 3 fans in the front at the moment, however, I would need to ports turning to the top, possible clearance issue?

 

I'm pretty sure I don't have a PVM header on my board so I assume I would need to connect the pump to the CPU header, thus stopping the BIOS flashing up saying it's not connected.

 

I'm in Nottingham. Central of everything ha!

 

Yeah, what you've marked is how I have a 3rd fan connected, however, I think the gap listed is only 40-50mm spacing which is why I opted for a thinner radiator, however, I could run the radiator at 360 but have the ports up top if that makes sense. I also picked the thinner radiator due to the GPU's, as they are strix they are very lengthy and I have to now mount the pump/res on the radiator up front.

 

I can't speak to the clearance issue... sometimes you don't know that until it's all in and you attach the fittings and/or tubing lol! You will have at least one PWM header on your mbd, and it most likely is the CPU one, because that's what mine is, and we have very similar boards.

 

Shame you're a bit far, I'm on the south coast, otherwise I'd have popped over to help lol!

 

You'll be better off with thinner rads anyway... I always recommend that, simply because they always tend to fit better and the higher FPI will enable lower fan speeds therefore a quieter system... so it's a win win. Thicker rads sometimes look better, depending on the case and build specifics, and yes they can cool better, but the difference is negligible... you'll still have a super cool system!