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Advices required regarding new build! Custom Liquid Loop

Hello folks! I've been a huge fan of LTT since years but it's my actual first time over here asking for help, thanks upfront for helping me!

 

So I'm planing to build a complete new system with the following pieces and I had a few questions about my liquid cooling loop! Please let me know in the comments if I should post scheme of my ideas or if it's clear enough that way!

 

Ok so here's the big lines:

 

Case: Be quiet Dark Base Pro 900 http://www.ncix.com/detail/be-quiet-dark-base-pro-61-133206.htm

Motherboard: Asus Maximus VIII Formula http://www.ncix.com/detail/asus-rog-maximus-viii-formula-d5-126247.htm

CPU: I7 6700K (Do I need to link that? ahah)

GPU: GTX 1080 (I'll need advices picking one for water cooling it!)

Ram: 16GB Corsair Vengeance LED DDR4 http://www.ncix.com/detail/corsair-vengeance-led-16gb-2x8gb-88-135582.htm (wathever the color, i'll probably pick red)

SSD: Samsung 850 Pro 1TB http://www.ncix.com/detail/samsung-850-pro-1tb-2-5-ce-99906.htm

HDD: 4TB 7200RPM (Probably gona go with a WD since I already got a failure on a seagate)

PSU: Enermax Platimax 1200W (I already have it in my current computer and I'll keep it)

Optical Drive: None, who needs that nowaday!

 

Now as the water cooling setup here are the component i'll use:

Radiator1: http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-ex-series/ex360-triple-fan-radiator

Radiator2: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-se-240-slim-dual  (I'll get the the "why" this one later)

CPU block: XSPC Raystorm Pro http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/raystorm-pro

GPU block: XSPC Blade GTX 1080 http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/blade-gtx-1080

Tank: XSPC Photon D5 Pump Combo: http://www.ncix.com/detail/xspc-d5-photon-170-glass-75-91744.htm

Pump: See tank

FANS: Corsair ML120, no discussion those are simply incredible

 

Big Lines: I want a 360MM Rad for my CPU+PCB and the 240 rad for my GPU, let me know if I should invert that. The 240 MM will be Front mounted as an intake (I know it isn't optimal but I have no choice since I can't botom mount it). The 360MM Rad will be top mounted of course. I plan to place my tank+pump combo right after my 240MM rad (Drive trays will be removed except for one as high as I can place it so everything fits in).

 

 

Ok so that round up most of my setup now I had a few interogations listed below, please help

 

Question 1: Considering my 240MM rad will be shotting hot air in my case I taught about putting a 120MM fan at the bottom of my case, in the slot closest to the rad since the other one won't be usable due to PSU. That's where came my idea of a really slim 240MM rad at the front, would I be able to fit this fan in? Is it a good idea to try to compensate for the heat driven into the case? I'll use a 120MM rear exaust fan too) but my question is: WOULD IT FIT?

 

Question 2: As mentioned before, should I run my 360 rad for my CPU or my GPU? Because build wise it'd give a much cleaner look if my 240 Rad would be used on my CPU but performance wise is this the best option?

 

Question 3: The tank I picked is well rated, but considering my rad will drive hot air DIRECTLY on it. should I go for a Bayreservoir (5.25 bays) pump combo? Aestecticly speaking it'd be much less apealing....

 

Question 4: Any recomendation on how to pass my tubing? Note that there is a PCB water block built-in the motherboard I picked (It's copper, I verified ahah)

 

Question 5: That one is an old one... BARB OR COMPRESSION FITTINGS???????? and why?

 

Please do not hesitate to post ANY comment on my build or recomendation all help and opinions is welcome!

 

Once again thank's upfront everyone, let me know what you think! (LET ME KNOW IF I SHOULD DRAW A SCHEME OF MY IDEAS TO MAKE IT CLEARER)

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If you are going to watercool a 1080, a reference or founders edition is the easiest. Since the cooler is irrelevant anyway and everyone makes a waterblock for the reference design.

So it makes it easier to find a waterblock that you like that works in your build.

 

Just because it's factory overclocked doesn't mean squat once it's under water. There's winners and losers in the silicon lottery. Just go reference design on your 1080 and make it easier to find a waterblock.

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10 minutes ago, Katsunaka said:

If you are going to watercool a 1080, a reference or founders edition is the easiest. Since the cooler is irrelevant anyway and everyone makes a waterblock for the reference design.

So it makes it easier to find a waterblock that you like that works in your build.

 

Just because it's factory overclocked doesn't mean squat once it's under water. There's winners and losers in the silicon lottery. Just go reference design on your 1080 and make it easier to find a waterblock.

Allright that'll make me save some money avoiding more high priced cards, thats actualy what I taught I wanted to make sure. If you have any insight about my 4 questions i'd be glad to hear it! Thanks!

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Ok my first point, have you looked at EKWB for blocks? Their blocks are much better looking and they offer a wider range:

 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/water-blocks/vga-blocks

 

https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/

 

As for the GPU I went for the Palit Gamerock Premium as it's one of the fastest 1080's out of the box and EK provide a block and backplate for it.

 

As for the Radiators ill speak from my previous experience:

 

In my sig/project build I originally had a 360mm + 240mm radiator for the CPU + Chipset, with a single 360mm for a then 970GTX running 1418mhz.

 

When I added a second 970 I added the 240mm radiator to the GPU loop, the GPU temp dropped by around 2C with the addition of a second 970 and the CPU temps hardly changed.

 

So I would use the 240 for the CPU imo, just pick good static fans

 

Compression fittings are mush easier to work with imo and look much cleaner

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

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Q1: no one knows until you put the rad in and try

 

Q2: Unless you are running two separate loops, which it sounds like you aren't, it doesn't matter where you put the rads or what order the loops is in. Your CPU and GPU will be cooled the same no matter where you put the rads. That's just how it works lol

 

Q3: Bay reservoirs are a pain to deal with. A res behind a rad works fine

 

Q4: don't understand the question

 

Q5: Barb are cheaper but require a clamp or zip ties, compression are slightly more but are more aesthetically pleasing and provide a better seal imo

 

Reference cards will overclock with the best of them

My Build, v2.1 --- CPU: i7-8700K @ 5.2GHz/1.288v || MoBo: Asus ROG STRIX Z390-E Gaming || RAM: 4x4GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 2666 14-14-14-33 || Cooler: Custom Loop || GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Black, on water || PSU: EVGA G2 850W || Case: Corsair 450D || SSD: 850 Evo 250GB, Intel 660p 2TB || Storage: WD Blue 2TB || G502 & Glorious PCGR Fully Custom 80% Keyboard || MX34VQ, PG278Q, PB278Q

Audio --- Headphones: Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX || Amp: Schiit Audio Magni 3 || DAC: Schiit Audio Modi 3 || Mic: Blue Yeti

 

[Under Construction]

 

My Truck --- 2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke || 6-speed

My Car --- 2006 Mustang GT || 5-speed || BBK LTs, O/R X, MBRP Cat-back || BBK Lowering Springs, LCAs || 2007 GT500 wheels w/ 245s/285s

 

The Experiment --- CPU: i5-3570K @ 4.0 GHz || MoBo: Asus P8Z77-V LK || RAM: 16GB Corsair 1600 4x4 || Cooler: CM Hyper 212 Evo || GPUs: Asus GTX 750 Ti, || PSU: Corsair TX750M Gold || Case: Thermaltake Core G21 TG || SSD: 840 Pro 128GB || HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

 

R.I.P. Asus X99-A motherboard, April 2016 - October 2018, may you rest in peace. 5820K, if I ever buy you a new board, it'll be a good one.

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16 minutes ago, Samgab777 said:

Allright that'll make me save some money avoiding more high priced cards, thats actualy what I taught I wanted to make sure. If you have any insight about my 4 questions i'd be glad to hear it! Thanks!

no reason to be paying extra for reference design. EKWB makes a lot of 1080 blocks. just pick one they already have (such as a FTW or STRIX).

 

Its also worth noting that (typically speaking) lower ASIC cards are better on water, or so goes the rumor... so don't be sucked in by the ones with inflated binned GPU costs.

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