mouse cables

[Schony125]

hello guys, decided to fix my 3 years old gaming mouse after finding the problem yesterday and give it to my younger brother.

found out a cable was semi broken and holding by only a couple of string tomorrow I will weld  it ( dont know how to call it in english) at work.

 

a question is it normal that the the one cable is not with plastic shielding around it?

i mean wtf never seen something like this no wonder it broke.

 

second question what is that cable for? 

[Schony125]

here are some pics

[W-L]

1 minute ago, Schony125 said:

here are some pics

-PICS-

That seems a bit odd was the wire just coiled up inside? 

 

I guess you could shorten it off and re-solder up the connections so it's not just a bundle of twisted wires.

[Schony125]

1 minute ago, W-L said:

That seems a bit odd was the wire just coiled up inside? 

 

I guess you could shorten it off and re-solder up the connections so it's not just a bundle of twisted wires.

it is every thing stock I just peeled of the braided thing and the plastic cover 20 cm and the cable is with no shielding around didnt want to go more forward to not damage 2 much the braiding. 

didnt want ether to cut the wires they seem 2 thin to re weld together.

 

ps how do you write "more forward"? know how to say but not how to type.

the word that goes like:  that thing is more forward away form that thing 

[W-L]

4 minutes ago, Schony125 said:

it is every thing stock I just peeled of the braided thing and the plastic cover 20 cm and the cable is with no shielding around didnt want to go more forward to not damage 2 much the braiding. 

didnt want ether to cut the wires they seem 2 thin to re weld together.

 

ps how do you write "more forward"? know how to say but not how to type.

the word that goes like:  that thing is more forward away form that thing 

Hmm just seems off to me why they would heatshrink and leave such a long length of wire inside, but as long as you fix the connection you could coil it back up like they did previously. I think your mean move it further up or forward, to get rid of the twisted wire section. 

[Schony125]

25 minutes ago, W-L said:

Hmm just seems off to me why they would heatshrink and leave such a long length of wire inside, but as long as you fix the connection you could coil it back up like they did previously. I think your mean move it further up or forward, to get rid of the twisted wire section. 

yeah further away was the word thanx  

I fond out what is that cable its like a ground but I dont know for what its is for there is a second ground that looks like the electrical ground this one is maybe for shielding or interference but how can it be the problem then? them mouse just stops working after you bend the cable a little bit right were the cable was broken will see if soldering will fix the thing its a shame to trow away it just for a cable not working.

 

keep in mind is a cheap Tt e sports mouse not some logitech or corsair

[UnlimitedTMD]

It`s called soldering. I`ve seen those `stripped` wires a lot, rather normal IMO

[Un4tural]

its normally red for 5v+ black for grnd white with green are for data. that 5th one is for the connector ground, usually soldered to the metal cover of the usb male connector, protecting the 4 pins inside. 

 

Also, unless you need a really really long cable, why not just cut it, them solder the ends like they are now onto the mouse directly? would look like new.

[Schony125]

2 minutes ago, Un4tural said:

its normally red for 5v+ black for grnd white with green are for data. that 5th one is for the connector ground, usually soldered to the metal cover of the usb male connector, protecting the 4 pins inside. 

 

Also, unless you need a really really long cable, why not just cut it, them solder the ends like they are now onto the mouse directly? would look like new.

man im a car mechanic not some louis rossman repair specialist  im afraid that I have to strip all the wires to see were the cable is broken because if its soldered on the metal cover it should not effect power to the mouse

[Un4tural]

nope the ground shouldn't effect it. most cheap mice do away without it, same as a lot of phone chargers etc.

 

however it shouldn't be too difficult to just unsolder the wires from the mouse PCB, chop the cable where fraying stops, put some solder on ends of these and solder to the corresponding places where they were. it's a little fiddly, but not hard. Just close the patient up when done and you're good to go.

 

if the cable is gone at the usb connector, you can equally just salvage pretty much any usb cable for the cause,  i usually god for phone chargers, as they're easy to come by.

[Schony125]

On 20/4/2016 at 10:07 PM, W-L said:

Hmm just seems off to me why they would heatshrink and leave such a long length of wire inside, but as long as you fix the connection you could coil it back up like they did previously. I think your mean move it further up or forward, to get rid of the twisted wire section. 

 

On 20/4/2016 at 10:49 PM, Un4tural said:

its normally red for 5v+ black for grnd white with green are for data. that 5th one is for the connector ground, usually soldered to the metal cover of the usb male connector, protecting the 4 pins inside. 

 

Also, unless you need a really really long cable, why not just cut it, them solder the ends like they are now onto the mouse directly? would look like new.

found out (obviously) the red cable was also broke sothered it and closed up the mouse