Adding a drain system after making the loop

[Dinodaur]

I recently posted my first planned loop here: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/416010-would-like-confirmation-if-my-loop-will-work-and-help-on-planning-draining/#entry5595925
but was confused about the draining system. I have (mostly) worked out what it will be I will have a T junction coming off the pump that can then link onto a mini valve than be used to drain and I will have to improvise for the bottom rad.

 

My question is: Can I add this in later as I have to order the mini valve from America if I want it to match the rest of my fittings, so this will take a long time? I was thinking I could add a quick disconnect in and then add the tubing for it later with the valve on but there aren't any Koolance quick disconnects for 16/11 mm tubing. Do I have any other options or can I use the 16/10mm quick disconnects fine?

 

Also would, as the pump I wish to use (EK-D5 Vario X-TOP - Acetal w/ d5 pump) has 3 1/4" threads, I be able to connect this disconnect system to third thread in the pump? If not would I then have to plug this hole?

[brandishwar]

For one, your drain should be at the lowest point in your loop -- you've probably seen that written a ton of times, so having it on your pump isn't going to be ideal. It's the next to lowest point, but it's best having it on the bottom radiator.

Second, there's nothing that says you can't build your loop and then add the drain later, but it'll make things a little more complicated to add it later. You don't exactly need the ball valve, though. If you don't mind the look, an extension fitting (15mm should be plenty) coming off a T-valve on the bottom radiator will be enough to drain it. Regardless of whether you use a valve or not, you're going to need a spare fitting and piece of tubing for draining. So instead of the valve, you can just use a stop fitting with an extension fitting. Then when you need to drain it, tip the case on its side and wait a minute to allow some air to work its way to that valve, then take the plug off and screw on the fitting you'll use for draining, tip the case back up and it should work.

For an idea of what I'm talking about, look at JayzTwoCents channel for when he worked on Skunkworks and had to drain his 900D build.

[Dinodaur]

For one, your drain should be at the lowest point in your loop -- you've probably seen that written a ton of times, so having it on your pump isn't going to be ideal. It's the next to lowest point, but it's best having it on the bottom radiator.

Second, there's nothing that says you can't build your loop and then add the drain later, but it'll make things a little more complicated to add it later. You don't exactly need the ball valve, though. If you don't mind the look, an extension fitting (15mm should be plenty) coming off a T-valve on the bottom radiator will be enough to drain it. Regardless of whether you use a valve or not, you're going to need a spare fitting and piece of tubing for draining. So instead of the valve, you can just use a stop fitting with an extension fitting. Then when you need to drain it, tip the case on its side and wait a minute to allow some air to work its way to that valve, then take the plug off and screw on the fitting you'll use for draining, tip the case back up and it should work.

For an idea of what I'm talking about, look at JayzTwoCents channel for when he worked on Skunkworks and had to drain his 900D build.

The only issue with the drain system being on the bottom rad is this will be visible from the window as I will be using a Phanteks Enthoo Primo, in which the bottom rad is in front of the PSU cover. This means that the look is not preferable in my opinion and part of this update to my rig is for it to look better, so I may just take the disadvantage of a having the drain at not the lowest point and drain the rad seperately.

[brandishwar]

You'd just want to make sure, then, that when you do drain it that you can still tilt it to get some of the fluid out of the bottom radiator. That way when you go to disconnect everything, you're not mopping up a ton of coolant that's spilled all over the place.

You can still make the drain system look decent, though. A drain valve in plain sight isn't bad, in my opinion. I know a lot of people try to hide those away, but you're only setting yourself up for complications in doing so -- in your case, you're not going to have it at the lowest point in your loop, meaning draining your radiator is going to be more difficult. In my wife's system, her drain valve is about in plain sight, and same with my system. In both setups I used a 4-way block (Koolance specifically) for putting the valve onto the loop and so the valve blends in with the rest of the fittings and doesn't stand out. You should consider something similar. What valve are you considering ordering, out of curiosity?

[Dinodaur]

You'd just want to make sure, then, that when you do drain it that you can still tilt it to get some of the fluid out of the bottom radiator. That way when you go to disconnect everything, you're not mopping up a ton of coolant that's spilled all over the place.

You can still make the drain system look decent, though. A drain valve in plain sight isn't bad, in my opinion. I know a lot of people try to hide those away, but you're only setting yourself up for complications in doing so -- in your case, you're not going to have it at the lowest point in your loop, meaning draining your radiator is going to be more difficult. In my wife's system, her drain valve is about in plain sight, and same with my system. In both setups I used a 4-way block (Koolance specifically) for putting the valve onto the loop and so the valve blends in with the rest of the fittings and doesn't stand out. You should consider something similar. What valve are you considering ordering, out of curiosity?

I am going to order a Bitspower Mini Valve in Carbon Black