Prestigio PHS4 Guide

[Flashie]

Hi

 

The Prestigio PHS4 was a headset given to me when my brother upgraded to the Logitech G930 and i just couldn't set this thing down after the two weeks I was "testing" it out for. I ended up asking to keep it longer and it lasted me a good few months of great use.

Then something terrible happened...

During one of my late night gaming sessions, I'd been feeling hungry, and as I went to go grab a bite from my bedside table, I accidentally tripped over the wire that had wrapped itself around my chairs leg. I'd been sent faceplanting onto the ground. When i got back up I grabbed the headset again and wondered why it felt like the cord never stopped. I looked down and noticed that the entire cord snapped out of the in-line controller. I was really upset and confused - evens more so since this was technically not mine yet.

 

 

Now, the goal of this post is to give a guide to those who would like to fix a Prestigio PHS4, since i've noticed there is no informative guides, explanation or breakdown of it on the internet - and if I can help someone thats in the position I was in, I'd be glad that I could help.

The problem i encountered with the repair was that there were 5 split wires and 5 solder points. I ended up seeing tiny bits of the split wires, and managed to make out some of their colors. I then matched up the different color wires to their points, and soldered them together once more. 

Since this was the most challenging part for me, I'd like to post a wire layout with the color-coded points shown.

 

IMPORTANT: There are 2 GND wires. There is 1 large GND wire, and 1 finer GND wire. Attach the large GND wire to the furthest left solder point and the finer GND wire to the second solder point. 

Things you'll need to repair the wires:
 

• Tweezer (not compulsory)
• Philips head screwdriver
• Prestigio PHS4 Headset
• Soldering Iron
• Solder

Step 1 - Take off the screw place holders

 

You can do this with a flat head screwdriver, or if you have long nails - you can use that too. Basically any sharp object to get them off will do. You need to do this to reveal the hidden screws. Without doing this - you will break the controller's casing.

 

Step 2 - Remove the hidden screws

 

 

Use the Phillips screwdriver to do this. Store in a safe place for later use.

 

Step 3 - ​Separate the two main covers of the controller

 

 

You can do this by lifting the bottom cover (the cover without buttons) off of the one with buttons. This will reveal the tiny circuit board which all the wires are passing through. Remember to remove the 2 screws on the top right and bottom left of the PCB.

 

Step 4 - Gently remove the top cover

 

 

Doing this will reveal the entire circuit-board that was enclosed in the controller box. I would advise putting the circuit board on something sticky or something that would keep it in place while your soldering. A clamp would do great for this, but in my case i used silly putty.

 

Step 5 - Find the split wires

 

 

Using tweezers, or your fingers, separate the split the broken wire from the others. If all the wires have been separated, you can use the tweezers to put them into the right order based on the wiring guide at the top of the post.

 

Step 6 - Bring out them soldering irons!

 

 

Soldering - This is where it gets difficult. Be careful not to burn yourself! On the circuit board you will see tiny little blobs of metal. Using the soldering iron, position the heated-iron on the blob of solder to heat it up and make it liquid. Once it is liquid - keeping the soldering iron over it, or it will dry - position the loose wire into the blob of solder and remove the soldering iron. The solder will then dry up very quickly and keep the wire in position, and because of it being conductive, it will transfer the data/power through the cable and to its destination via the PCB. 

Step 7 - Rebuild the controller cover.

 

 

Once you have successfully soldered all of the wires to their solder points, you can go ahead and rebuild the controller enclosure by re-attaching the two PCB screws to the PCB once its remounted into place on the top, buttoned enclosure part. Go ahead and close up the enclosure by adding the top and screwing in the 4 hidden screws and cover them up with the screw cover.

 

Step 8 - Plug in and test

 

 

Plug the USB into an open USB port in your system. Give it a second to install drivers if it has to, and smack the "Mute" button on the enclosure. If the LED powers up, the headset is read as a recording device and a playback device, then you have done it correctly. If it is not showing up, feel free to shoot me a PM and i can help you troubleshoot where and if you've gone wrong.

Thanks guys
I do not take any responsibility for any damage to property or damage done to your system if done wrong during this process. (how would it with such a great guide? :])
Flash

[Shally]

Really nice, thanks for the contribution.

[Flashie]

Update: In the case of this happening several times, or the wires puling out again, I would recommend reinforcing the 2 connectors coming into the main casing to the case with use of superglue or a strong adhesive. This has stopped the cable from pulling out again. If I do manage to find the time, I will update the original post with a spoiler of how to reinforce the wires to the casing.

[Flashie]

Update update: The headset's bass has just stopped but after doing some intense searching, troubleshooting and soldering, i've found that 2 of the wires on the opposite side of this guide require solder connecting both of them to each other, so that they can share conductivity, to produce the bass. Just a little update of something i've found really weird, but a weird fix for the problem.