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Power supply "jumper"

flibberdipper
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I'm not sure if these exist (and I don't have time to look for one), but I need something where I can manually turn a power supply on with a button or something so that I can use it.

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Zephyrus - Windows 7 side rig

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Mac Mini (Late 2014)

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Intel Core i5 4278U, 8GB RAM, 250GB Samsung 840 EVO, macOS 12.1 Monterey, using it with a ViewSonic VX2748

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X 1TB, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 2TB

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Like a 24 pin jumper? The switch would turn it on and off in this case. 

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I'm not sure if these exist (and I don't have time to look for one), but I need something where I can manually turn a power supply on with a button or something so that I can use it.

 

There's probably a DIY solution but I found this with a quick google http://www.frozencpu.com/psu-173.html

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Just use a paper clip and connect the green and black wire on the 24pin to "turn on" the power supply.

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You don't need to tape up the powersupply like it is shown in the link, that wire is grounded.

"Have you tried turning it off and on again?"

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I'm not sure if these exist (and I don't have time to look for one), but I need something where I can manually turn a power supply on with a button or something so that I can use it.

Splice into the green wire and a black wire (without cutting them), and put a switch in between them. 

"Rawr XD"

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I'm not modifying the PSU or jumping the wires.

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Zephyrus - Windows 7 side rig

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AMD Phenom II X6 1055T (undervolted to 1.26v w/ CM 212 EVO), 2x4GB Samsung 1600MHz CL11, Asus M4A77TD, 240GB Kingston UV400, 1TB Toshiba 2.5", EVGA GTX 960 SC, Enthoo Pro, Corsair CX750M, Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I w/ Centrino 6300, Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit

Mac Mini (Late 2014)

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Intel Core i5 4278U, 8GB RAM, 250GB Samsung 840 EVO, macOS 12.1 Monterey, using it with a ViewSonic VX2748

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X 1TB, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 2TB

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I'm not modifying the PSU or jumping the wires.

Use a paperclip. Don't modify the PSU for warranty and safety.

Case: Define R4 (Black - Window) | PSU: EVGA Supernova 850w Gold | Motherboard: ASUS Z97 Deluxe | SSD: Samsung 840 EVO (250GB) | CPU: Intel i7 4790K (Devil's Canyon) Delidded with CLU  GPU: ASUS STRIX 980 TI | Cooler: Corsair H100i with CLU | Extra: NZXT Hue

 

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Use the paperclip method, then you can turn it off and on using the switch at the back

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X - CPU Cooler: Deepcool Castle 240EX - Motherboard: MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC

RAM: 2 x 8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RBG 3200MHz - GPU: MSI RTX 3080 GAMING X TRIO

 

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Paperclip. Super easy.

 

I didn't have a paperclip so I stripped a heavy twist tie. Worked fine.

 

34:35

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Use a paperclip. Don't modify the PSU for warranty and safety.

Not doing the paperclip method either. I killed a previous power supply doing that.

Main rig on profile

Zephyrus - Windows 7 side rig

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AMD Phenom II X6 1055T (undervolted to 1.26v w/ CM 212 EVO), 2x4GB Samsung 1600MHz CL11, Asus M4A77TD, 240GB Kingston UV400, 1TB Toshiba 2.5", EVGA GTX 960 SC, Enthoo Pro, Corsair CX750M, Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I w/ Centrino 6300, Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit

Mac Mini (Late 2014)

Spoiler

Intel Core i5 4278U, 8GB RAM, 250GB Samsung 840 EVO, macOS 12.1 Monterey, using it with a ViewSonic VX2748

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X 1TB, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 2TB

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Not doing the paperclip method either. I killed a previous power supply doing that.

How did you do that?

 

The paperclip pulls the green wire to ground. It is completely safe, unless you connected the wrong connectors.

"Have you tried turning it off and on again?"

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How did you do that?

 

The paperclip pulls the green wire to ground. It is completely safe, unless you connected the wrong connectors.

I did the right ones, but apparently it just didn't like me.

Main rig on profile

Zephyrus - Windows 7 side rig

Spoiler

AMD Phenom II X6 1055T (undervolted to 1.26v w/ CM 212 EVO), 2x4GB Samsung 1600MHz CL11, Asus M4A77TD, 240GB Kingston UV400, 1TB Toshiba 2.5", EVGA GTX 960 SC, Enthoo Pro, Corsair CX750M, Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I w/ Centrino 6300, Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit

Mac Mini (Late 2014)

Spoiler

Intel Core i5 4278U, 8GB RAM, 250GB Samsung 840 EVO, macOS 12.1 Monterey, using it with a ViewSonic VX2748

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X 1TB, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 2TB

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I did the right ones, but apparently it just didn't like me.

Yeah happens to me as well, i have to keep the pressure on the clip so it makes contact and if I leave it alone the power supply turns off.

Get yourself this thing:

psu-173.jpg

It's something you just connect to the 24pin cable and will work flawlessly.

40.jpg

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I did the right ones, but apparently it just didn't like me.

 

There is no other way to start any power supply I know of without jumping the green and black or having two Antec High Current power supplies and making it so that one turns on with the other.

 

Either try it again (although you've had it go bad once, every person who has ever watercooled on this site has likely used the method before, and seeing as how many watercooled builds there are and none have had a power supply go this way I think it's fairly safe to attempt again) or grab the thing that Faa suggested.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X - CPU Cooler: Deepcool Castle 240EX - Motherboard: MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC

RAM: 2 x 8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RBG 3200MHz - GPU: MSI RTX 3080 GAMING X TRIO

 

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