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I couldn't find the datasheet for the HGST HTS541010A99E662. I found the others.

 

 

In my case, is it more important to follow the operating temperature or the non-operating temperature? Here at my house, the temperature is 36C during the operation of the 2.5" HDDs inside the USB 3.0 case. I don't usually check the maximum temperature that the HDD reaches, but if it goes over 60C, does any loss of magnetization occur?

 

 

Here the humidity is high, it varies from 60 to 71%. I know it is bad for oxidation, but I don't know if this humidity causes demagnetization. I access the drives once a year. in datasheet not shows humiity range

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Just now, cloudff7 said:

if it goes over 60C, does any loss of magnetization occur?

It shouldn't.

 

1 minute ago, cloudff7 said:

is it more important to follow the operating temperature or the non-operating temperature?

When the drive is running you should follow the operating temperatures. When it isn't, keep to the non-operating temperature.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

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https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

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Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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Storing 2.5" laptop HDDs within a few centimeters of a 29" CRT TV and SATA DVD drives causes the HDDs to become unusable and lose data?

 

operation temperature and non-operation temperature in datasheet have a direct relationship with the demagnetization of 2.5" HDDs? Does this happen outside the range?

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Just now, cloudff7 said:

Storing 2.5" laptop HDDs within a few centimeters of a 29" CRT TV and SATA DVD drives causes the HDDs to become unusable and lose data?

CRT TVs contain a magnets to redirect electrons towards the phosphers on the screen. Now, HDDs are actually somewhat resistant to magnets, and the magnets in CRTs are not super strong. However, I would still suggest you keep drives away from CRTs, or anything containing magnets more generally.

 

SATA DVD drives are used in close proximity to HDDs all the time and have been for years. There is no issue here.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticeably improve performance past 240mm and don't improve at all past 360mm. 9) RTFM.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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The 29" CRT TV remains a few centimeters next to the closet inside the closet drawer. I store the 2.5" laptop HDD inside a USB 3.0 case and inside the Orico box. When I handle the HDD and remove it from the drawer on the way to the bedroom, I pass in front of the 29" CRT TV, which is turned off.

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3 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

The 29" CRT TV remains a few centimeters next to the closet inside the closet drawer. I store the 2.5" laptop HDD inside a USB 3.0 case and inside the Orico box. When I handle the HDD and remove it from the drawer on the way to the bedroom, I pass in front of the 29" CRT TV, which is turned off.

You do know that harddrives have quite strong magnets inside of them right? If they are not affected by their own magnets, they will not be affected by a TV.

 

As an experiment, take something metal like a screw or other object that is attracted to a magnet. Try to put it on the side of the TV. Does it stick? No. TV's are usually quite well shielded.

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Just now, cloudff7 said:

TV CRT big 29" is strong demagnetize hdds 2.5"?

No. I mean don't test it, but it will be fine.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticeably improve performance past 240mm and don't improve at all past 360mm. 9) RTFM.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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On 6/22/2025 at 12:03 PM, cloudff7 said:

Storing 2.5" laptop HDDs within a few centimeters of a 29" CRT TV and SATA DVD drives causes the HDDs to become unusable and lose data?

 

operation temperature and non-operation temperature in datasheet have a direct relationship with the demagnetization of 2.5" HDDs? Does this happen outside the range?

 

On 6/22/2025 at 3:39 PM, cloudff7 said:

The 29" CRT TV remains a few centimeters next to the closet inside the closet drawer. I store the 2.5" laptop HDD inside a USB 3.0 case and inside the Orico box. When I handle the HDD and remove it from the drawer on the way to the bedroom, I pass in front of the 29" CRT TV, which is turned off.

You are blowing this WAAAYYY out of proportion.

You have almost 0% chance of demagnetizing a HDD from all the things you are worrying about.

 

Load them with the data you want to save, put them on a shelf and forget about it.

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2 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

What is the Curie temperature of 2.5" HDDs?

My guess: 1121°C (for HDDs using cobalt-alloy magnetic layers on their platters)

 

Just now, cloudff7 said:

Is it much lower than the operating and non-operating temperatures shown in the datasheet?

The curie tempriture will be higher (much higher) than the operating and non-operating temperatures.

 

The operating and non-operating temperatures are the temps at which the HDD works and should remain working longest.

 

It would not make sense for them to be lower than the curie tempriture.

2 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

When the Curie temperature is reached, does demagnetization begin?

Yes, but you won't reach that without a furnace.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticeably improve performance past 240mm and don't improve at all past 360mm. 9) RTFM.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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Do all 2.5" laptop HDDs use only cobalt alloys in their magnetic materials and require 1000c to start the demagnetization process?

my models ST500LM030, WD10JPVX-08JC3T5 and HGST HTS541010A99E662

 

Is there any protection between a large 29" CRT TV and the 2.5" laptop HDDs so that the electromagnetism of the TV's coils and speakers does not weaken and demagnetize the HDD a few centimeters away from them?

 

Difference Curie temperature HDD 2.5" laptop x HDD 3.5" Desktop?

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3 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

Do all 2.5" laptop HDDs use only cobalt alloys in their magnetic materials and require 1000c to start the demagnetization process?

my models ST500LM030, WD10JPVX-08JC3T5 and HGST HTS541010A99E662

 

Is there any protection between a large 29" CRT TV and the 2.5" laptop HDDs so that the electromagnetism of the TV's coils and speakers does not weaken and demagnetize the HDD a few centimeters away from them?

I give up......🙄

 

You either have to run them through an MRI or drop them into an active volcano.

I'm rather confident that your 2.5" hard drives will be just fine.

 

"A typical CRT might produce magnetic fields in the range of a few millitesla (mT), which translates to tens of gauss. "

 

 

"For effective demagnetization of modern hard drives, a degausser with a magnetic field strength of at least 10,000 Gauss is generally recommended.

For highly sensitive data, a degausser with a higher Gauss rating, such as 20,000 Gauss, might be necessary to meet stringent security standards."

 

pretty sure your safe.

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@cloudff7

 

It really doesn't need to be this complicated.

 

If any of the things your worrying about were issues, then no one would buy HDDs cause they'd be breaking down before they were even sold.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticeably improve performance past 240mm and don't improve at all past 360mm. 9) RTFM.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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On 6/22/2025 at 8:23 AM, cloudff7 said:

Do 2.5" laptop HDDs have a temperature range for long-term storage without risk of demagnetization of the platters causing data loss and corruption? Or does any temperature above 25C slowly cause the platters to demagnetize?

25C is pretty low.  It should be fine even in 50C.

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Just now, KidKid said:

25C is pretty low.  It should be fine even in 50C.

And even in 60 or 65C if turned off.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticeably improve performance past 240mm and don't improve at all past 360mm. 9) RTFM.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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5 hours ago, cloudff7 said:

hdd 2.5" laptop has many different magnetic materials in platters? different temperature Curie?

why are you so concerned about this?

You will NEVER be in a situation where your HDD will hit those temps.

If it does than you are most likely going to be dead from the encounter, so it then becomes a mute point.

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On 6/24/2025 at 12:56 PM, cloudff7 said:

What is the Curie temperature of 2.5" HDDs?

~700C
Try to keep it out of a blast furnace and you'll be fine

5950X/4090FE primary rig  |  1920X/1070Ti Unraid for dockers  |  200TB TrueNAS w/ 1:1 backup

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3 hours ago, cloudff7 said:

all hdds 2.5" laptop is 700C curie temperature?

 

What is the meaning of operating temperature and non-operating temperature in the datasheet of 2.5" HDDs? Is it related to demagnetization?

No, it's more related to bearing lubrication.

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11 hours ago, cloudff7 said:

For 2.5" laptop HDDs, is there any study of the Curie temperature that initiates demagnetization? Do these HDDs use different magnetic materials and different Curie temperatures?

Curie temperature of neodymium magnets is from 310 to 400c. It is not something that you need to be worried about in the slightest.

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