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Fuzzy audio

Beep or Boop

So I just upgraded from my Steel Series Arctis 7 to the Arctis Pro Wireless and everything has been working well. How I have it set up, is the receiver box for the headset, is plugged into my GoXLR with a 3.5mm cord. Now how I usually had it set up was that I had my headset volume all the way turned up, and then fine tuned the audio with my GoXLR. I found if I sometimes have the headset lower then full, some applications were too quiet. But now, I am hearing a fuzz/buzz feedback when I have the headset turned up all the way. Is there anything I can do to eliminate that buzz/fuzz? I have heard some stuff about "Ground Loop" things that you put in between your cables. But I'm very ignorant in the audio world.

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Have you tried different USB ports?

 

5950X/3080Ti primary rig  |  1920X/1070Ti Unraid for dockers  |  200TB TrueNAS w/ 1:1 backup

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1 minute ago, OddOod said:

Have you tried different USB ports?

 

Yes I have.

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Okay, I too am wildy ignorant in the audio world. I ran into a similar issue with my whole home audio and was able to solve it by making sure the amplifiers were plugged into a different outlet than the computer which was the audio source. That doesn't seem to be a possibility here (maybe with a powered USB splitter but who knows). 

In your case I am a bit lost, but the ground loop isolator doesn't seem to be a terrible idea, especially given they are under 10 bucks. 

5950X/3080Ti primary rig  |  1920X/1070Ti Unraid for dockers  |  200TB TrueNAS w/ 1:1 backup

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50 minutes ago, OddOod said:

Okay, I too am wildy ignorant in the audio world. I ran into a similar issue with my whole home audio and was able to solve it by making sure the amplifiers were plugged into a different outlet than the computer which was the audio source. That doesn't seem to be a possibility here (maybe with a powered USB splitter but who knows). 

In your case I am a bit lost, but the ground loop isolator doesn't seem to be a terrible idea, especially given they are under 10 bucks. 

Ok thanks. I'll try and wait for some more opinions before I blindly try it.

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4 hours ago, Beep or Boop said:

So I just upgraded from my Steel Series Arctis 7 to the Arctis Pros and everything has been working well. How I have it set up, is the receiver box for the headset, is plugged into my GoXLR with a 3.5mm cord. Now how I usually had it set up was that I had my headset volume all the way turned up, and then fine tuned the audio with my GoXLR. I found if I sometimes have the headset lower then full, some applications were too quiet. But now, I am hearing a fuzz/buzz feedback when I have the headset turned up all the way. Is there anything I can do to eliminate that buzz/fuzz? I have heard some stuff about "Ground Loop" things that you put in between your cables. But I'm very ignorant in the audio world.

What is this "receiver box" you speak of? Does it have a model number?

 

I need to understand how you have everything wired first (items and connection types).  My best guess is that the headset being full tilt is amplifying any distortion/interference introduced in this new configuration, it's like turning a stereo up all the way with no input, any interference is going to be loud even when there shouldn't be any sound.

 

Ground loop isolation could be a solution regardless of what the new configuration has done, I know that it fixed a back feed of a tube amplifier into my dac and amp but I used RCA to connect for this.  Depending again, on how you have it set up an RCA ground loop isolator or an Aux/3.5mm ground loop isolator might be in store.

 

From what I can tell your headset uses a TRRS 4-pole connector for input and output, depending on how it's wired you might need to split it into two 3-pole TRS connectors to use a ground loop isolator, if the mic is affected as well a second one would be required for the mic.

Open-Back - Sennheiser 6xx - Focal Elex - Phillips Fidelio X3 - Harmonicdyne Zeus -  Beyerdynamic DT1990 - *HiFi-man HE400i (2017) - *Phillips shp9500 - *SoundMAGIC HP200

Semi-Open - Beyerdynamic DT880-600 - Fostex T50RP - *AKG K240 studio

Closed-Back - Rode NTH-100 - Meze 99 Neo - AKG K361-BT - Blue Microphones Lola - *Beyerdynamic DT770-80 - *Meze 99 Noir - *Blon BL-B60 *Hifiman R7dx

On-Ear - Koss KPH30iCL Grado - Koss KPH30iCL Yaxi - Koss KPH40 Yaxi

IEM - Tin HiFi T2 - MoonDrop Quarks - Tangzu Wan'er S.G - Moondrop Chu - QKZ x HBB - 7HZ Salnotes Zero

Headset Turtle Beach Stealth 700 V2 + xbox adapter - *Sennheiser Game One - *Razer Kraken Pro V2

DAC S.M.S.L SU-9

Class-D dac/amp Topping DX7 - Schiit Fulla E - Fosi Q4 - *Sybasonic SD-DAC63116

Class-D amp Topping A70

Class-A amp Emotiva A-100 - Xduoo MT-602 (hybrid tube)

Pure Tube amp Darkvoice 336SE - Little dot MKII - Nobsound Little Bear P7

Audio Interface Rode AI-1

Portable Amp Xduoo XP2-pro - *Truthear SHIO - *Fiio BTR3K BTR3Kpro 

Mic Rode NT1 - *Antlion Mod Mic - *Neego Boom Mic - *Vmoda Boom Mic

Pads ZMF - Dekoni - Brainwavz - Shure - Yaxi - Grado - Wicked Cushions

Cables Hart Audio Cables - Periapt Audio Cables

Speakers Kef Q950 - Micca RB42 - Jamo S803 - Crown XLi1500 (power amp class A)

 

*given as gift or out of commission

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1 minute ago, Psittac said:

What is this "receiver box" you speak of? Does it have a model number?

 

I need to understand how you have everything wired first (items and connection types).  My best guess is that the headset being full tilt is amplifying any distortion/interference introduced in this new configuration, it's like turning a stereo up all the way with no input, any interference is going to be loud even when there shouldn't be any sound.

 

Ground loop isolation could be a solution regardless of what the new configuration has done, I know that it fixed a back feed of a tube amplifier into my dac and amp but I used RCA to connect for this.  Depending again, on how you have it set up an RCA ground loop isolator or an Aux/3.5mm ground loop isolator might be in store.

 

From what I can tell your headset uses a TRRS 4-pole connector for input and output, depending on how it's wired you might need to split it into two 3-pole TRS connectors to use a ground loop isolator, if the mic is affected as well a second one would be required for the mic.

The "receiver" is just the little box that comes with the headset. If you look up Arctis Pro Wireless you can see the little box it comes with. And that is all i'm referring too. So my setup is. I have my headsets receiver plugged into my PC, which has a 3.5mm jack plugged into my GoXLR, which is powered and plugged into my PC as well.

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4 minutes ago, Beep or Boop said:

The "receiver" is just the little box that comes with the headset. If you look up Arctis Pro Wireless you can see the little box it comes with. And that is all i'm referring too. So my setup is. I have my headsets receiver plugged into my PC, which has a 3.5mm jack plugged into my GoXLR, which is powered and plugged into my PC as well.

ok then I would go for a 3.5mm TRS ground loop isolator

 

Sorry my brain deleted the word "wireless" when I read the OP lol.

 

Another option is to ditch the GoXLR and use the USB on the headset box.  I'm unaware of which would produce a better sound, depends on where the dac is.

 

My best understanding is that the box is converting analogue to digital to transmit to the headset where it is transmitted back to analogue.  If you use USB the conversion process would be simplified.  So my hypothesis is that best practice is USB to your box.

 

But convenience can trump best practice, so the ground loop isolator would probably be your option if you want to keep the GoXLR in the loop.

Open-Back - Sennheiser 6xx - Focal Elex - Phillips Fidelio X3 - Harmonicdyne Zeus -  Beyerdynamic DT1990 - *HiFi-man HE400i (2017) - *Phillips shp9500 - *SoundMAGIC HP200

Semi-Open - Beyerdynamic DT880-600 - Fostex T50RP - *AKG K240 studio

Closed-Back - Rode NTH-100 - Meze 99 Neo - AKG K361-BT - Blue Microphones Lola - *Beyerdynamic DT770-80 - *Meze 99 Noir - *Blon BL-B60 *Hifiman R7dx

On-Ear - Koss KPH30iCL Grado - Koss KPH30iCL Yaxi - Koss KPH40 Yaxi

IEM - Tin HiFi T2 - MoonDrop Quarks - Tangzu Wan'er S.G - Moondrop Chu - QKZ x HBB - 7HZ Salnotes Zero

Headset Turtle Beach Stealth 700 V2 + xbox adapter - *Sennheiser Game One - *Razer Kraken Pro V2

DAC S.M.S.L SU-9

Class-D dac/amp Topping DX7 - Schiit Fulla E - Fosi Q4 - *Sybasonic SD-DAC63116

Class-D amp Topping A70

Class-A amp Emotiva A-100 - Xduoo MT-602 (hybrid tube)

Pure Tube amp Darkvoice 336SE - Little dot MKII - Nobsound Little Bear P7

Audio Interface Rode AI-1

Portable Amp Xduoo XP2-pro - *Truthear SHIO - *Fiio BTR3K BTR3Kpro 

Mic Rode NT1 - *Antlion Mod Mic - *Neego Boom Mic - *Vmoda Boom Mic

Pads ZMF - Dekoni - Brainwavz - Shure - Yaxi - Grado - Wicked Cushions

Cables Hart Audio Cables - Periapt Audio Cables

Speakers Kef Q950 - Micca RB42 - Jamo S803 - Crown XLi1500 (power amp class A)

 

*given as gift or out of commission

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6 minutes ago, Psittac said:

ok then I would go for a 3.5mm TRS ground loop isolator

 

Sorry my brain deleted the word "wireless" when I read the OP lol.

 

Another option is to ditch the GoXLR and use the USB on the headset box.  I'm unaware of which would produce a better sound, depends on where the dac is.

 

My best understanding is that the box is converting analogue to digital to transmit to the headset where it is transmitted back to analogue.  If you use USB the conversion process would be simplified.  So my hypothesis is that best practice is USB to your box.

 

But convenience can trump best practice, so the ground loop isolator would probably be your option if you want to keep the GoXLR in the loop.

I do want to keep my goxlr in the loop because it has features that I just enjoy too much to get rid of. I ended up buying this on amazon before you posted. It's essentially the same thing as the one you linked correct?

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3 minutes ago, Beep or Boop said:

I do want to keep my goxlr in the loop because it has features that I just enjoy too much to get rid of. I ended up buying this on amazon before you posted. It's essentially the same thing as the one you linked correct?

correct, that is the biggest chance of fixing your problem.

Open-Back - Sennheiser 6xx - Focal Elex - Phillips Fidelio X3 - Harmonicdyne Zeus -  Beyerdynamic DT1990 - *HiFi-man HE400i (2017) - *Phillips shp9500 - *SoundMAGIC HP200

Semi-Open - Beyerdynamic DT880-600 - Fostex T50RP - *AKG K240 studio

Closed-Back - Rode NTH-100 - Meze 99 Neo - AKG K361-BT - Blue Microphones Lola - *Beyerdynamic DT770-80 - *Meze 99 Noir - *Blon BL-B60 *Hifiman R7dx

On-Ear - Koss KPH30iCL Grado - Koss KPH30iCL Yaxi - Koss KPH40 Yaxi

IEM - Tin HiFi T2 - MoonDrop Quarks - Tangzu Wan'er S.G - Moondrop Chu - QKZ x HBB - 7HZ Salnotes Zero

Headset Turtle Beach Stealth 700 V2 + xbox adapter - *Sennheiser Game One - *Razer Kraken Pro V2

DAC S.M.S.L SU-9

Class-D dac/amp Topping DX7 - Schiit Fulla E - Fosi Q4 - *Sybasonic SD-DAC63116

Class-D amp Topping A70

Class-A amp Emotiva A-100 - Xduoo MT-602 (hybrid tube)

Pure Tube amp Darkvoice 336SE - Little dot MKII - Nobsound Little Bear P7

Audio Interface Rode AI-1

Portable Amp Xduoo XP2-pro - *Truthear SHIO - *Fiio BTR3K BTR3Kpro 

Mic Rode NT1 - *Antlion Mod Mic - *Neego Boom Mic - *Vmoda Boom Mic

Pads ZMF - Dekoni - Brainwavz - Shure - Yaxi - Grado - Wicked Cushions

Cables Hart Audio Cables - Periapt Audio Cables

Speakers Kef Q950 - Micca RB42 - Jamo S803 - Crown XLi1500 (power amp class A)

 

*given as gift or out of commission

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5 minutes ago, Psittac said:

correct, that is the biggest chance of fixing your problem.

Thank you for all the help!

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